世界著名女攀岩家Beth Rodden单段完攀5.14c路线
<P>Rodden Fires Hardest Yet</P><P>Beth Rodden, Yosemite poster child and author of "There and Back Again" in Issue 12, established a single-pitch traditional route in late February that she named Meltdown (70'). The grade checks in at around 5.14, making it one of the most difficult climbs in Yosemite National Park. Rodden has not proposed a grade, but if it is 5.14c, which some have suggested, the ascent likely makes her the first woman to climb that difficulty on traditional gear. </P>!I@? r;r7J%v h Rs
<P>2月末，美国约塞米蒂国家公园形象大使著名的女攀岩家Beth Rodden以传统攀岩方式在约塞米蒂开辟了一条单段路线（一般低于25米，50米的主绳可以保证攀登者到顶并返回地面）。Beth将其命名为Meltdown (70')，技术难度约5.14左右，为约塞米蒂国家公园难度最大的攀岩路线之一。Beth本人没有对这条路线的难度进行具体评估，如果达到5.14c，那么她将成为第一位用传统方式攀登此难度的女性攀岩者。</P>/dS(KVu&^
<P>Meltdown is located near Cascade Falls, just above the road in an unlikely grotto. No other climbs exist in the immediate vicinity, but the Phoenix-the once-controversial Jardine 5.13a-lies about a quarter-mile away, downhill from Meltdown. </P>
<P>Meltdown位于约塞米蒂国家公园Cascade Falls瀑布（在一个极其少见的岩洞内）的左下方，而且其附近地区也没有其他的攀登线路，不过在Meltdown下方400多米处有一条颇受争议的Phoenix 5.13a路线。</P>m7A u b"v'W ?
<P>The new route has been described as "improbable": it climbs an ultra-thin finger crack for about 45 feet on slightly overhanging, dark, north-facing granite, then transitions into "discontinuous seams to the top," Rodden said. </P>
<P>这条新路线的开辟被称为"不可思议"的：它位于一条漆黑的悬石北面。Beth先攀爬了一段大约45英尺（约13.7米）长的距离，上面的裂缝比手指还细，然后转到一处更细的接缝处，从那爬到顶端。</P>
<P>A waterfall flows just left of the climb. Although it provided a great backdrop for photographer Corey Rich's photo shoot, he mentioned that its spray "added another challenge for Beth" by dampening the lichen-covered rock. "It didn't feel wet to the touch," Rodden said, "but all of the sudden your hands would pop, your foot would pop. <FONT color=red>You got spray on your face and body. It was like a swamp cooler." </FONT></P>
<P>这条路线的左边紧挨着一处瀑布。当时的随行摄影师Corey Rich说："飞流而下的瀑布无疑增加了Beth的难度，岩石上面布满了潮湿的青苔。"不过Beth自己却称没有感觉到岩石有多湿润，"但手和脚经常会被水沫打到，脸上身上也都是水，感觉就像身陷沼泽一样。"</P>,sD%Q'|Dqf
<P>Ron Kauk stumbled upon the Meltdown line about a decade ago after he finished Magic Line (5.14b sport, 1997), but he never finished redpointing the short crack. Rodden found it last year and projected the route for four months this winter. "Winter is not the best time to project something in Yosemite," she warned. "Sierra storms can be brutal. One day we showed up, and there was 3-4 feet of snow. Tommy [Caldwell] and I had to shovel for six hours; Tommy went to the top, and I shoveled the entire base." </P>,W1m U(H l^
<P>10年前美国另一著名攀岩家Ron Kauk也曾尝试此路线，但遭遇了滑铁卢。当时他先锋攀登了Magic Line线路（5.14b，1997）年，多次尝试却无法完攀这块短的大裂缝。Beth去年发现了这条线路并在冬季准备了4个月。"冬天的约塞米蒂国家公园并不是训练的好地方，这里的暴风雪很恐怖。一次我和丈夫Tommy就遇到了，雪下了足有3-4英尺厚。为躲避风雪，我足足挖了六个小时雪后宿营，Tommy则选择到高处躲避。</P>
<P>She redpointed the climb on all natural gear, placing all protection-eight pieces in total; TCUs, small offsets and one nut-on lead. Tenuous moves combined with "pretty serious fall potential" persuaded Rodden to develop a special gear system. Instead of clipping gear to her harness, she connected three vital cams with duct tape. This system allowed her to rip them off her harness easily, saving time and energy in the most desperate situations. </P>
<P>Beth全部依照自然条件红点了这条路线，并在上面安装了8个保护点：起点处安了一个岩石塞和小的TCUs。在Meltdown线路上每一步都很困难，还得时刻防备飞流而下的瀑布，这迫使Beth练就使用一套特殊的攀岩器械。在攀爬时，她没有选择把绳索系在安全带上，而是带了3个导管状粗细的凸轮，这样在遇到危险情况时，就很容易把它们从安全带上解下，既省时又省力。</P>
<P>"I climbed it really fast. It was hard for me to hold each position because it was powerful, and the feet are bad in some spots. It forced me to climb from little opening to little opening in the crack. You're deadpointing to fingerlocks and always fighting a barn door." </P>4`[g`1f3DQ{
<P>"我爬得很快。但由于力量太大，很难捉住每一个保护点，而且有时脚也无处安放，我只能顺着这条裂缝，从一处缝隙挪到另一处缝隙。我要先deadpoint（ 一 种 攀 岩 技 术。动态移动时，在跳起到最高点的刹那轻抓住下个手点）后将手指快速插入岩缝并锁住（即Fingerlock），而且还得总要"转门"（即Barn door：手脚支点在同一直线，而且重心不在此线下方．身体不可控制地以此线为轴象栅栏门那样转下来）。"</P>
<P>"I saw her performing at a level I hadn't seen before in terms of the power and commitment involved," Rich said. "It was great to see her on the sharp end pushing those boundaries." </P>ILK.[ T*X
<P>"无论从力量还是从技术上，她的这次攀登比她以前任何时候的都要精彩，"摄影师Rich说道，"真是很荣幸能够捕捉到她在裂缝中穿梭的身影。"</P>
<P>Of Meltdown, she said: "I had to work harder on this climb than on any other... I think I was a little stubborn on this one. Most anyone else would have left [because of the winter season and difficulty], <FONT color=red>but I think the shoveling helped my climbing. It makes your back strong." </FONT></P>4|8ekna_
<P>在完成Meltdown攀登后，她说到："这条线路比我攀过的其他路线都要困难，我想它激发了我倔强的脾气，一定要拿下它。大部分人遇到这种线路都会放弃（因为在冬天，难度很大），但我坚持下来了，雪铲帮了我大忙，并使我的后背变得更加强壮。"</P>
<P>Beth Rodden资料：</P>tbIpo4Q'nimJ
<P>美国著名攀岩家，1980年出生于加州的旧金山，最年轻的完成5.14a路线的女性。 </P>
<P>Beth已多次红点5.14a的路线。她是第二位在约塞米蒂国家公园自由完攀El Capitan路线的女性；第一位完成Optimist (5.14b)路线的女性；第一位完成Grand Illusion (5.13c)路线的女性；并看攀了(on-sigh：运动员在比赛前对路线的信息一无所知，边观察边进行攀登，在攀登过程中一旦脱落或犯规即判其失败) Phoenix (5.13a)路线；并同丈夫Tommy Caldwell一起自由攀登了Nose及数十条其他线路。</P>
<P>Beth Rodden及丈夫Tommy Caldwell的个人主页：<A href="http://www.bethandtommy.com/">http://www.bethandtommy.com/</A> </P>
<P>原文链接：<A href="http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08s/newswire-rodden-yosemite-hard-trad">http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08s/newswire-rodden-yosemite-hard-trad</A><BR></P>
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[[i] 本帖最后由 faye 于 2008-3-7 14:10 编辑 [/i]] 红色标注的地方拿不太准，希望诸位帮助指正一下 攀登的季节来了 手开始痒了555~~ 自己翻译的?%kP!~c?} qS6q` | s
厉害厉害........
辛苦啦!~ 传统5.14！！:funk: 弓虽！$XU I*vE0B g;`
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“在Meltdown线路上每一步都很困难，还得时刻防备飞流而下的瀑布，这迫使Beth练就使用一套特殊的攀岩器械。在攀爬时，她没有选择把绳索系在安全带上，而是带了3个导管状粗细的凸轮，这样在遇到危险情况时，就很容易把它们从安全带上解下，既省时又省力”
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上面这段不是很理解，绳子不系在安全带上，那么怎么进行攀登保护？ [quote]原帖由 [i]Senovo[/i] 于 2008-3-10 14:07 发表 [url=http://bbs.8264.com/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=1678047&ptid=104546][img]http://bbs.8264.com/images/common/back.gif[/img][/url]yhb0i z-hC#wa
传统5.14！！:funk: 弓虽！
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“在Meltdown线路上每一步都很困难，还得时刻防备飞流而下的瀑布，这迫使Beth练就使用一套特殊的攀岩器械。在攀爬时，她没有选择把绳索系在安全带上，而是带了3个导管状粗细的凸轮，这 ... [/quote][$`a9U W|
主要是对很多专业词汇的翻译上有些错误，大致应该是这样：
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Rodden全部采用传统攀登装备红点了这条路线，通过机械塞、岩塞等在线路上设置了8个保护点进行先锋攀登。纤细的裂缝使得每一步移动都存在着脱落的可能，这迫使Rodden设置了一套特殊的器械系统，她没有选择把装备扣在安全带的装备环上，而是将三个最重要的机械塞通过胶带粘在上面，这样她可以轻易的将塞子从安全带上撕下来，在最危急的情况下节省时间和体力。 谢谢了 专业就是专业啊，因为我从来没有攀过岩所以很多情况只能靠想象，不准确的地方还请多指教，在问一下TCUs是一种机械赛的名字吗 [quote]原帖由 [i]faye[/i] 于 2008-3-10 16:14 发表 [url=http://bbs.8264.com/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=1678451&ptid=104546][img]http://bbs.8264.com/images/common/back.gif[/img][/url]
专业就是专业啊，因为我从来没有攀过岩所以很多情况只能靠想象，不准确的地方还请多指教，在问一下TCUs是一种机械赛的名字吗 [/quote]5a,jw/V|7doD
机械塞的一种，机械塞一般统称为cam，不同的公司产品名称有些差异，像wildcountry出的机械塞名字叫就friends，被很多人认为是机械塞的代名词，TCU是Metolius公司生产的机械塞的一个型号，小尺寸，特别适合问中的小裂缝使用。
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