绝对零度 发表于 2006-6-3 20:32
(转自盗版岩与酒）<br /><br />雪盲失明的原因是早晨6:00从突击营地出发前往东峰的过程中使用氧气时，氧气面罩和雪镜的关系没调整好，导致在海拔8000m的位置全天阳光刺伤眼睛。同对的两个牛人在无绳索保护的情形下把失明的洛则带回了营地。 <br /><br />Peter Hamor (斯洛文尼亚人)在前面侦察开路完成登顶。 Piotr Morawski 和Piotr Pustelnik（波兰人）同洛则呆在一起，在洛则眼睛开始疼痛并无任何好转的情形下在东峰和中峰(主峰)间露营。 头灯的没有，洛则已无法独自返回营地 ，我们必须在太阳升起前下撤（注：避免雪盲加剧）。 <br /><br />凌晨5:00返回营地，但洛则已完全失明。吃喝也都没了，我们必须开始自救了。 <br /><br />Peter完成登顶后在同一位置经过一晚的露营后也赶回了营地，状态还好但对救援也帮不了什么忙了， 被直接发配自行继续下撤。剩下的两个状态良好，只是洛则始终哭个不停。 本打算去东峰取回固定绳索帮助洛则下降，但虚弱的身体最终使我们放弃了这个想法，选择Free clime down。 当Pustelnik告诉洛则要出发的时候，洛则问道: "是上还是下?"。 实在是悲喜交集的场面。 <br /><br />在8000m地带的救援确实是一场身心俱疲的巨大挑战， Pustelnik最后的评论" <br /><br />“It took us about 12 or 13 hours to get out of the mess, hours of watching every single step. By the evening, we finally saw Peter and Don by the deposit, preparing a place for us. "We are alive!" we shouted down to them. My legs trembling, I thought to myself: Jesus, we did it. We had managed to descend without belay, and didn’t have to cope with the moral issue of leaving a man behind on the mountain; to tell him that he was out and would have to stay. I hope I will never have to go through something like this again.” <br /><br /><a href='http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=7917' target='_blank'>http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=7917</a> <br /><br /><br />
绝对零度 发表于 2006-6-3 20:35
Annapurna debrief - Piotr Pustelnik: Leave no man behind<br /><br /><br />06:26 am EST May 29, 2006 <br />(MountEverest.net) Less than two weeks back, ExWeb published the special story "SMS to hell" (check feature stories) about an ongoing summit push far from the crowds of Mount Everest: On Annapurna - the most dangerous of all the 8000ers, with a summit/fatality rate exceeding 40%. Piotr, 53, was on the final push on his summit number 13 - following the descent line on a route opened by legendary Polish climbers Artur and Jerzy in 1988. <br /><br />May 25, news came that after a long and difficult climb, the main summit was only reached by Peter Hamor (Slovakia). Pustelnik and Morawski reached the East Summit, but had to turn back to help one of the Tibetan climbers who became blind. Forced to decide between going for the summit or helping the injured Tibetan, Piotr didn't hesitate: The right thing was leaving no man behind. <br /><br />Sat-phone debrief from BC <br /><br />Piotr Pustelnik and the mBank Lotto Himlayan Trilogy team are now in BC, recovering from a scary descent of Annapurna without belay. Pustelnik reported the details over sat-phone yesterday. <br /><br />“We are in BC at 4130 m. I would like to report some details about the last few days. As you know we chose the route following the East ridge. We had estimated the climb to take 6 days, and had supplies for 8.” <br /><br />The long path-finding across the glacier <br /><br />“To get to the ridge though, first we had to cross the glacier: Orientation was hard between the seracs and crevasses. It took us too long to cross the glacier and then to find the right place for a second cache, on the saddle between Roc Noir and Glacier Dom.” <br /><br />“Originally, we had planned to do one more roundtrip to BC for supplies, but that would have taken too long so instead we took a risk and moved up. Only one of the Tibetan climbers. Lotse, joined us.” <br /><br />A risky bet <br /><br />“We started climbing along the edge of the ridge. By Roc Noir the route was steep and loaded with snow. Then came a very sharp snow ridge. It took us two days to climb it and we reached a plateau near the East summit May 21.” <br /><br />“That day Piotr Morawski, Peter Hamor, me and Lotse set off for the East summit at about 6:00 am. Lotse used oxygen on that section. The weather was rather good, typical for Annapurna: Calm in the morning and windy with snowfalls in the afternoon.” <br /><br />“It took us some time to reach the East summit and then to find the ridge leading towards the middle summit. Peter Hamor, the best alpinist in the group scouted the way. Meanwhile, Lotse hadn’t adjusted his glasses properly to the O2 mask, allowing the sun to hit his eyes the entire day. We were at about 8000m.” <br /><br />Lotse blinded – the dream is over <br /><br />“As Peter disappeared out of view, heading for the Middle summit, Lotse’s eye began to hurt. Since the pain didn’t recede, we started looking to do a bivouac between the East and Middle summit. We had no head lamps, so Lotse couldn’t go back to camp alone and we must descend before sunrise.” <br /><br />“We reached Camp at 5:00 am. Peter spent the night in a bivouac between the Middle and the Main summit. By then Lotse had lost his sight completely. There was no food, nothing to drink and Lotse was blind. We had to self-rescue.” <br /><br />“The next day, the three of us were sitting in the tent. Piotr Morawski and myself in pretty good shape, Lotse crying all the time. Peter arrived after his bivouac. I sent him down on his own, he was well and couldn’t help us anyway.” <br /><br />Get down before it is too late <br /><br />“All our food reserves were finished by that time. We had to descend – it was clear that Lotse wouldn’t recover his sight, and soon become too weak to go down. We had thought of returning to the East summit in order to retrieve our fixed roes there and use tem to help Lotse down – but we were too weak. It was an extremely difficult situation, we couldn’t count on anyone’s help in the middle of the ridge.” <br /><br />“Don Bowie, who hadn’t taken part in the summit push due to heath problems, had gone down with one Sherpa to the second deposit. (It was very brave, thanks Don!) At least we knew that food and gas were waiting for us there. We decided to free climb down, I told Lotse we were leaving, and he asked “up or down?”. It was a tragicomical situation.” <br /><br />Scary descent <br /><br />"The first few meters were very hard - I was really scared, my legs were trembling. One wrong move could have ended critical. I watched Piotr, it was a very tough day for him too: His back and stomach were hurting, but he fought hard. Lotse could hardly see anything, but kept going down. I now knew that we would make it. <br /><br />“It took us about 12 or 13 hours to get out of the mess, hours of watching every single step. By the evening, we finally saw Peter and Don by the deposit, preparing a place for us. "We are alive!" we shouted down to them. My legs trembling, I thought to myself: Jesus, we did it. We had managed to descend without belay, and didn’t have to cope with the moral issue of leaving a man behind on the mountain; to tell him that he was out and would have to stay. I hope I will never have to go through something like this again.” <br /><br />（关于洛则的，转自www.mounteverest.net)<br /><br /><br />
男儿本自重横行 发表于 2006-6-4 05:07
洛则我不知你是否可以看到我这个留言.我第一次听说你的故事是在93年.那时我还是个小孩,那次你和安尔普尔娜失之交臂.这一次你重返安尔普尔娜带着重要的使命..........休息是为了走更远的路,我们可以从头在来!!保重
知音乐悦 发表于 2006-6-7 03:49
引自搜狐户外频道——“记者今天接到洛则妻子的电话，得知洛则已经成功登顶了安纳普尔那峰。在这次攀登过程中，登山队员们遇到了很多困难，他们曾遭受到恶劣的天气，洛则也曾经因为雪盲被迫下撤”。<br /> <!--emo&<_<--><img src='style_emoticons/default/dry.gif' border='0' style='vertical-align:middle' alt='dry.gif' /><!--endemo--> 贺洛则登顶安娜普尔娜！
花草丛 发表于 2006-6-9 11:01
哪位能人能翻译那一段。。谢谢了！！
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