一双攀岩鞋
刚刚接触攀岩,趁着打折,买了双鞋下午没事,于是拿出来照了点片子,
鞋本身的性能我由于刚刚接触攀岩,所以也说不出什么来,就当是show鞋吧~~~
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[attach]16712940[/attach] 转一篇这双鞋的review,懒得翻译了,哪位有时间的可以帮着翻译一下
[i]Optimus Primetime[/i] (Fnt7a+) Trowbarrow Quarry
[url=http://bp1.blogger.com/_GQ9jVpYbVtI/Rh4fesZvogI/AAAAAAAAAAU/lfQ4CEigfIQ/s1600-h/corona+mikes+climbing.jpg][img]http://bp1.blogger.com/_GQ9jVpYbVtI/Rh4fesZvogI/AAAAAAAAAAU/lfQ4CEigfIQ/s320/corona+mikes+climbing.jpg[/img][/url]
It’s been a quite a few years since I last climbed in Red Chili’s and during this first foray I was not overly impressed with the general fit, performance or construction of these spiciest of rock shoes. So, as you can imagine, when I first tried on the Coronas my expectations were pretty low. Thanks to the great weather over the last few weeks I have spent plenty of time out on the crag (as I hope have you), and have given the Coronas a fair bit of field testing, and guess what, I like them! [b]The Fit[/b]
The semi-asymmetric lasting is close and friendly on the feet and I have experienced no problems from rubbing or abrasiveness from poorly placed stitching lines. The tongue is nice and flexible and doesn’t cut into the top of your foot when you really get over your toes; they also retain their shape pretty well.
[b]Usage[/b]
I have mainly been using the Corona whilst bouldering on my local limestone crags in south Cumbria, but they have also been taken on a number excursions into the Lake and Peak Districts, with the ascending terrain varying from vertical to super steep, and so far they’ve done a stalwart job for me wherever I have been.
"perhaps a slight penchant toward the vertical realm"
[url=http://bp1.blogger.com/_GQ9jVpYbVtI/Rh4fOsZvofI/AAAAAAAAAAM/ecIC8Y6a3SI/s1600-h/corona+mikes+foot.jpg][img]http://bp1.blogger.com/_GQ9jVpYbVtI/Rh4fOsZvofI/AAAAAAAAAAM/ecIC8Y6a3SI/s320/corona+mikes+foot.jpg[/img][/url]
What has stood out for me so far has been their edging ability, as they have performed especially well on more precision styles of climbing. The inside and outside edge of the toe box is particularly precise. I feel that their smearing abilities will improve with time, although according to the manufacturer one of the reasons for the demise of this shoe is its ability to retain a stiff forefoot. So it’s ideally suited for those of you who prefer more support on vertical ground, but perhaps not a shoe for all you smearing wads out there.
Many of my local crags involve quite a lot of heel work and for this I found the heel of the Corona to be pretty effective. I haven’t experienced any movement or slippage due to the neat low volume fit, and there is enough rubber to give you protection without losing feel. The extra rubber on and around the toe is also a nice bonus giving that bit more grip when toe hooking.
[b]Construction[/b]
First impressions would conclude that this is a well made shoe. I have not had any problems with stitching coming undone or the rubber rand separating from the shoes. Couple this with the fact that they become pretty comfy I can see this shoe lasting well after long days of heavy hammer.
[b]Downsides[/b]
Okay so that’s the good points, any drawbacks? My main concern is that they have stretched quite a lot, and in my opinion I think it would be best to buy tight and then spend a bit of time and effort stretching them out to your foot. Not the most pleasant thing in the world to do but worth it in the long run. You don’t want to get a few months down the line and end up with baggy shoes. During the initial stage of breaking them in they do feel a bit clumpy but this will reduce considerably after around 7 sessions.
[b]Summary[/b]
There is no such thing as the perfect rock shoe, an obvious statement but never the less an accurate one. A bit boring of me to say but I feel that the Corona is a good all-rounder, with perhaps a slight penchant toward the vertical realm. Essentially though this puppy is as at home down the wall as it is on the crag, be it bouldering, multi-pitch or both. 红辣椒的鞋不错啊，不过国内没什么渠道 据说 楼主在国外 嘿嘿 还不给翻译下 我最头痛的就是看这些小英文字母了
不过鞋子很不错哦 红辣椒的岩鞋都是贼漂亮的`:jjkjljkl1 喜欢哦~~~ 吼吼~~~
楼主的装备可是不少~~~馋的俺直流哈喇子~~~~ 看来楼主喜欢秀装备啊,
怎么你的装备那么新啊! 据说红辣椒这个品牌不错，但没有用过，请楼主用后给点儿感受 600米卖得到咩？？ 又进来看了一遍 不过瘾 用看得不过瘾 楼主一定要穿上 展示一下 才过瘾;P
谁要你有双好鞋子 楼主太有“财”了！羡慕啊！
呜呜！俺还在使“M”和：“ATC”！差距啊！ 楼主不在国内?
回复 #7 西唐 的帖子
鞋是新买的其他的东西平时用的次数也不算多:$
另外可能是照片的问题，实际的东西看起来也不是那么新的:D
回复 #9 呼哈 的帖子
呵呵？600？那我还能赚不少:lol 干脆楼主帮偶们大家团购得了，哈哈 好像是BEAL的粉袋 [quote]原帖由 [i]winter521521[/i] 于 2007-6-26 21:55 发表 [url=http://bbs.8264.com/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=883378&ptid=62980][img]http://bbs.8264.com/images/common/back.gif[/img][/url]
好像是BEAL的粉袋 [/quote]
:lol 我看到很大的一个BD的logo，^_^
BTW：看来不像是一款适合抱石的攀岩鞋，从照片上看，感觉橡胶还是很“粘”的 粉带是ＢＤ没错了～～
红辣椒国内见的比较少，也没听说代理在哪里，但是经常看美国攀岩的视频的朋友应该不陌生，包括Osman，Dean Potter在内的众多高手都穿过它的鞋子，感觉玩大岩壁的人用的比较多～
国外的攀岩器材除非季节性的打折，一般都是按照零售价格卖～并不便宜～即使是在美国易趣上也没找到便宜的器材～感觉国内器材价格还是可以的～
另：ＬＺ一定谦虚了，用的上ＧＲＩＧＲＩ等的还说是初学，难以服众啊，呵呵
回复 #18 nirvanawht1983 的帖子
其实在国外GRIGRI并不算是高手的专用装备,岩馆里很多人在用,我估计有近一小半的人在用.另外在鞋上面,国外的价格的确是非常高,有的款式要比国内贵2倍多(英国的价格),不过还好有季节性打折,这双鞋就是在打4折的时候买的,原价70英镑(大约1050RMB),打完折是28英镑(大约是420RMB),GRIGRI是我在ebay上买的2手的,成色比较新~~~ 不错
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