[NEWSWIRE]俄罗斯探险队成功围攻K2(8611M)最难的线路(页 1) - 『山伍成群』 - 中国驴友论坛自助游论坛|旅游论坛|驴友论坛|旅行论坛|户外论坛|

终极lee 发表于 2007-9-9 01:09

[NEWSWIRE]俄罗斯探险队成功围攻K2(8611M)最难的线路

RUSSIANS SUCCESSFULLY SIEGE K2'S HARDEST LINE 
<A href="http://tag.blog.sohu.com/%D7%AA%D7%D4ALPINIST.COM/" target=_blank>转自ALPINIST.COM</A>  <A href="http://tag.blog.sohu.com/%B7%AD%D2%EB%3A%C0%EE%BA%EC%D1%A7/" target=_blank>翻译:李红学</A>  
[attach]16773908[/attach]7qPf0jzf
 
The west face of K2 (8611m) from 6900m on Savoia Kangri. The left skyline is the northwest ridge, which so far is unclimbed in its entirety. The right skyline is the southwest ridge: Magic Line (Bozik-Prezemyslov-Piasecki-Wroz, 1986). The blue line is the west ridge with A1 the original finish (summit reached by Ohtani and Sabir in 1981). A2 is the line taken by Osamu Tanabe's Japanese expedition in 1997. This team followed the 1981 route to ca. 7800m, cut back to the crest of the west ridge at ca. 8000m, traversed across the upper west face to a col on the northwest ridge, continued across to the top of the north ridge (hidden), and up easy snow to the summit. The red line marks the new Russian Direct (eleven climbers led by Pavel Shabalin, 2007). [Photo] The Jules Cartwright Trust
 
图片说明:K2(8611米)的西壁攀登出发点是从海拔6900米的Savoia Kangri.山峰的左边轮廓线既是西北山脊,这条路线很长所以至今没有被攀登者全部完成.山峰的右边轮廓既是西南山脊,被命名为魔法路线(Bozik-Prezemyslov-Piasecki-Wroz, 1986). 蓝色路线是西山脊路线(A1),是最早被完成的路线(为1981年 Ohtani和Sabir 登顶).A2路线被Osamu Tanabe带领的日本探险队于1997年完成.这支队伍跟随1981年的路线到达7800的扎营,然后cut back 到8000米西山脊的山顶扎营,然后再从西壁的上方横切通过到西北山脊(col),然后继续横切到北山脊的山顶(hidden),最后很容易的通过雪坡到达了顶峰.红色路线为俄罗斯人直上的最新路线(11个攀登者在Pavel Shabalin带领下完成,2007年).[Photo] The Jules Cartwright Trust
 
运用同样的战术,2004年他们很成功完成Jannu的北壁路线和珠峰北壁直上路线.俄罗斯人又一次取得成功在世界第二高峰.在传奇人物Pavel Shabalin带领下,这支非常强大的探险队通过两个半月的长期围攻作战,首次完成了8611米的K2几乎最难的攀登.
 ii*xNh
十五个攀登者(其中大部分参与了 Jannu 和主峰探险)于6月7号达到了5000米的大本营,便开始修路和建营在西山脊左边以前不可想象企图攀登的路线下.在Savoia 冰川上方起步的雪坡上,艰难的路线被大面积的混合拱壁所组成,它是从海拔6600米到8150米的营地之间上升.虽然这里有一个突起的冰雪沟槽从左边连接着拱壁,俄罗斯人选择对付这条直上更难的路线直达拱壁.他们立即在拱壁下放建立了二号营地,而且攀登者想出了应付陡峭大岩壁的解决方法.最初的攀登绳段就被证实难度等同于Jannu的攀登,包含了一个三米的overhang攀登.再向上,虽然角度已经不是非常大了，但困难仍然持续出现.穿戴着严实的纺织衣物操作,独特的探险队没有借助更多的氧气,在严酷的天气下作战中最终因为高度适应的问题失去了两个队员,最后到达大岩壁顶的时候是7月30号.这里，他们建立了六号营地.在向上,因为一个角度比较小的雪坡被偶然坠落的岩石区域切段,封堵了他们通往顶峰的山脊.+G!j;wz0?w
 ,Z1dw@U K%|^
坏天气中断了攀登活动几天后,Alexey Bolotov, Gennady Kirievsky 和 Nokolay Totmjanin 重新回到了攀登中，用了4天时间在五号营地等待天气好转,最后在8月10号离开了六号营地向顶峰突击.深厚的积雪,不时的汇报让他们消耗了很多,相当大地拖累了他们的速度.然后,在8500米的地方,他们有意外的遇到一个垂直岩石台阶.体能即将耗尽,而且不能找到通过的路径,最后他们选择放弃撤退.[G\#}~q
 
然而,俄罗斯人是非常顽强的.最后，在8月21日,天气好转给他们另外一个冲击的机会.这次Andrey Mariev 和 Vadim Popovich克服了岩石台阶,并且通过了最后的山脊到达了顶峰.第二天,另外九名队员:Bolotov 和 Totmjanin 带领 Gleb Sokolov, Eugeny Vinogradsky,三人组Victor Volodin, Kirievsky an和 Vitaly Gorelik,最后是Shabalin 和 Ilias Tukhvatullin,跟着前面的脚印登顶.这里要特别指出的是,Popovich在这次探险之前从没有攀登过8000米级山峰,Shabalin和Tukhvatullin在8150米以上的海拔度过了四天,作为一个祖父的年纪达到了顶峰.GN?'xWcZ^2n
 
评论经常认为俄罗斯人仍然运用传统战术去攀登大的山峰,但是他们在很高的海拔克服很大技术难题的能力,在严酷环境下作战的本领,以及早些年完成的一些高难度计划给人留下了深刻影象.独特的风格需要有他们自己的思维,最出决定当前用阿尔卑斯方式攀登同样的目标是否是可行的.7[*R7u? B7{j W#A-C0dZ.p
 d/c;[!kk+U"F
Applying the same tactics that they used so successfully on the North Face of Jannu in 2004 and the North Face Direct of Everest the same year, the Russians have done it again on the world's second highest mountain. After a prolonged siege of two and a half months, an extremely strong team led by the legendary Pavel Shabalin made the first ascent of the west face direct on K2, completing what is almost certainly the hardest route on this 8611-meter Karakoram mountain. 
Arriving at their 5000m basecamp on June 7, fifteen climbers, most of whom had taken part in the Jannu and Everest expeditions, began fixing ropes and establishing camps on a previously unattempted line left of the west ridge. After initial snow slopes above the Savoia Glacier, the meat of the route is formed by a large mixed rock buttress, which rises from ca. 6600m to ca. 8150m. Although there is a prominent curving couloir skirting the buttress on the left, the Russians chose to tackle a direct and far more difficult line up the center. They established Camp 2 immediately below the buttress, and the climbers set about solving the problem of the steep rock wall above. The initial section proved taxing, equally as hard as Jannu, and sported a three-meter overhang. Above, the angle was not as extreme but the difficulties still sustained. Operating in close-knit individual teams without recourse to supplementary oxygen, the expedition battled through inclement weather--and the eventual loss of two of its members due to altitude-related problems--to reach the top of the wall on July 30. Here, they placed Camp 6. Above, only easier-angled snow broken by occasional rocky ground separated them from the summit ridge. 
Bad weather stopped activity for a few days but then Alexey Bolotov, Gennady Kirievsky and Nokolay Totmjanin moved back up the mountain, spent four days in Camp 5 waiting for a weather window, and on August 10 left Camp 6 for a summit push. Deep snow, reported at times to be up to their chests, slowed them considerably, and then at 8500 meters they hit an unexpected, vertical rock step. Exhausted, and unable to find a way through, the three retreated. .Lo [l,W$o;j4Z%y
But the Russians are nothing if not highly tenacious. Finally, on August 21, the weather allowed them another shot. This time Andrey Mariev and Vadim Popovich overcame the rock step and climbed the final ridge to the summit. On the next day nine other members, Bolotov with Totmjanin, followed by Gleb Sokolov, Eugeny Vinogradsky, the three-man team of Victor Volodin, Kirievsky and Vitaly Gorelik, and finally Shabalin with Ilias Tukhvatullin retraced their footsteps. This was a particularly notable effort for Popovich, who prior to this expedition had never climbed an 8000-meter peak, and Shabalin, who together with Tukhvatullin had spent the previous four days at or above 8150 meters and was one of two grandfathers to reach the summit. 
Criticism often is leveled at the heavy-weight, traditional Russian tactics still used on big mountains, but their talent to overcome great technical difficulties at very high altitudes--and the now-famous ability to stick with it through very harsh conditions--has led to the completion of some highly impressive projects over the last few years. Individuals will need to make up their own minds about whether alpine-style ascents of the same objectives are feasible at the current time. 
 c\bj+SV8I
 
 
 
 7EYy7ctxB$H
 2HrZd*bXXm
 Re6oHi8a-o]8[

[[i] 本帖最后由终极lee 于 2007-9-9 01:23 编辑 [/i]]

africayouth 发表于 2007-9-9 01:46

猛....hHB,b7n3S{~.z~

图还有么...多上点儿......

无聊野人 发表于 2007-9-9 02:21

有纪录片下载的，慢慢欣赏<IMG alt="" src="http://bbs.8264.com/images/smilies/smile.gif" border=0 smilieid="1">

心碎你好 发表于 2007-9-9 08:50

[quote]原帖由 无聊野人 于 2007-9-9 02:21 发表 <A href="http://bbs.8264.com/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=1114150&ptid=75550" target=_blank><IMG onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(this.src);}" alt="" src="http://bbs.8264.com/images/common/back.gif" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" border=0></A> 有纪录片下载的，慢慢欣赏 [/quote] NI;x6nIL)d%xkP
 4rI,ra:Ef"Ti.M
<IMG alt="" src="http://bbs.8264.com/images/smilies/shocked.gif" border=0 smilieid="6"> <IMG alt="" src="http://bbs.8264.com/images/smilies/shocked.gif" border=0 smilieid="6"> 纪录片在哪儿啊？给个链接吧，谢谢拉<IMG alt="" src="http://bbs.8264.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif" border=0 smilieid="3"> <IMG alt="" src="http://bbs.8264.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif" border=0 smilieid="3"> <IMG alt="" src="http://bbs.8264.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif" border=0 smilieid="3">

紫笛依扬 发表于 2007-9-9 11:29

cool
俄罗斯团队总是给人惊喜

高山牦牛 发表于 2007-9-9 14:24

牛人啊，:victory:

秋风苦涩 发表于 2007-9-9 15:21

红学的帖子是一定要顶的~

扎西多吉 发表于 2007-9-9 20:31

:victory:

普罗旺斯 发表于 2007-9-9 20:43

excellnet!

旺堆发表于 2007-9-10 10:40

仰望

darkblueocean 发表于 2007-9-10 11:58

不敢想象，哪有记录片！哪有记录片！

马甲之王 发表于 2007-9-10 12:42

看看。

笨鸟非非 发表于 2007-9-11 08:06

没有图片就是不爽:(

下雨天的虫虫 发表于 2007-9-11 08:29

楼上的好多勋章啊:o

老走发表于 2007-9-11 14:59

       从人间天堂向高耸的地狱的攀爬！震撼！

西风雪狼 发表于 2007-9-11 17:01

[quote]原帖由 无聊野人 于 2007-9-9 02:21 发表 <A href="http://bbs.8264.com/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=1114150&ptid=75550" target=_blank><IMG onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(this.src);}" alt="" src="http://bbs.8264.com/images/common/back.gif" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" border=0></A> 有纪录片下载的，慢慢欣赏 [/quote] 
老兄给个链接吧!<IMG alt="" src="http://bbs.8264.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif" border=0 smilieid="3"> <IMG alt="" src="http://bbs.8264.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif" border=0 smilieid="3">

终极lee 发表于 2007-9-18 11:55

2007-08-23 | 没有什么能够阻挡——俄国人完成K2西壁的首登
转自华仔博客<A href="http://climbhua.blog.sohu.com/61022076.html">http://climbhua.blog.sohu.com/61022076.html</A>
 
[attach]16782214[/attach]q%|(RC;_G`*S%C5R
当搞定了Jannu 和珠峰北壁之后，俄国人没有停下他们的脚步，就在昨天，8月22号，9名队员从西壁新线路一个接一个的登顶K2。图片左边从上到下，Victor Volodin, Vitaly Gorelik, Eugeny Vinogradsky 和 Gleb Sokolov，右边从上到下Gennady Kirievsky, Iljas Tukhvatullin, Nick Totmjanin 和Alexey Bolotov 中间是Pavel Shabalin。
Jannu 队员 Nickolay Totmjanin 和Alexey Bolotov 早上 10.45 登顶. Gleb Sokolov 接着 11.10 达顶. 珠峰北壁登顶队员Eugeny Vinogradsky 在11:50 登顶，20分钟后 Victor Volodin, Gennady Kirievsky 和 Vitaly Gorelik 也登顶了;最后到达的是 Pavel Shabalin 和Iljas Tukhvatullin 时间是下午三点。加上前天登顶的Mariev、Popovich登顶人数总共达到11人。 Bp+[DjR:C
从5月23号莫斯科出发到今天整整三个月，强悍的俄罗斯人克服了各种困难，无情的暴风雪，艰难的地形，没有氧气，困在死亡地带长达四天，没有什么能够阻挡他们，他们穿过地狱，终于笑傲峰顶 。
这是近十年来的首次新线路，K2总共有十三条线路，以前只有十条线路被登顶，当西壁被俄国人势如破竹的搞定后，东壁和北壁是唯一两条没被登顶的线路了。[attach]16782215[/attach]
从上图可以看出日本人对K2是情有独钟啊，上一张刚登顶的西壁大图。
[attach]16782216[/attach]_#M N7[%v6y&U
刚登顶的西壁大图。
[attach]16782217[/attach]
  本次俄国人的线路

poxiang 发表于 2007-9-18 12:28

记录片！！！！！！！那里？

狼蝎发表于 2007-9-18 16:11

怎么才能看到纪录片？

晕晕狼 发表于 2007-9-18 18:42

俄国人真的很牛的，今年有支偷登队，10几个俄佬悄悄登念青古拉中央峰（近几年冰川融化此山难度加大好多，没有人登顶，05年某校号称登顶，据可靠人士说登的还不是真顶。），用的是阿尔卑斯登顶，包括村口进山15公里都是自己背东西进去，没请一个背工一头牛帮忙，一人最少背进去80-100斤，你说牛不牛，还有女队员。

页: [1]

中国驴友论坛's Archiver

[NEWSWIRE]俄罗斯探险队成功围攻K2(8611M)最难的线路