25条让你成为金牌保护员（译文）

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25+ Ways To Be A Better Belayer  

Give a safer and softer CATch with these techniques

By Julie Ellison

25条让你成为金牌保护员

Climbers are constantly trying to increase their strength and improve climbing technique, while belaying the leader is often viewed as a stagnant skill: Once you know how to feed out rope, take in slack, and catch a fall, you’re done. False. All climbers should strive to refine their belaying practices throughout their climbing career, which means learning and practicing the subtleties that make a truly great belayer. We’ve talked to guides, longtime climbers, and even a physicist about how to give the best catch possible in a variety of situations, and we’ve compiled all that information here. Dial in these methods every time you go to the gym or the crag, and your top-notch belay services will mean you’ll never have trouble finding a partner again.

    攀岩者们都永不停滞地试着增加力量、提高攀岩技巧，而保护攀岩者却不被重视：一旦你知道如何给绳，如何收绳，如何制动，就大功告成了。错。所有的攀岩者都应该在整个攀岩生涯中努力改善自己的保护技巧，这就意味着攀岩者要学习和练习其中的微妙之处，那样才能成为一个真正的保护者。我们和攀岩向导谈过，和老岩棍谈过，甚至和物理学家谈过，讨论在不同情况下如何才能做到最好的保护，我们在这里将所有这些都编辑在了一起。在每次你去岩馆或去野攀的时候都把这些要点过一遍，那么你的顶级保护技术将意味着你永远都不愁找不到搭档。

>>Wear closed-toe shoes to protect your feet if you’re being pulled up through obstacles, jumping into the air, and deflecting off the wall.

>>Belay gloves will give you increased control of the rope (including better grip on skinny cords), as well as protect your hands from rope burns and anything that might get stuck in the rope as it drags across the ground toward your brake hand. (Think: A cactus needle stabbed one belayer in the hand and resulted in him dropping the rope completely.)

>>Check your belay stance by making sure you have a clear path between you and the cliff (in case you get pulled into it), and be aware of loose rocks as you shift your position by stepping forward or backward.
Tripping in this situation can pull your climber right off the wall.

>>This is more of a belaying bASIc, but it can’t be stated enough: Always double-check your belay setup and the climber’s tie-in knot before he leaves the ground.

>>Communication between climber and belayer is key. For more info on this, check out Know The Ropes.

>>If you are a lighter belayer, don’t anchor yourself to anything on the ground. That would result in a hard catch on the climber and a violent jerk for you. If the climber is significantly heavier than you and long falls are possible, consider finding another belayer.

>>Golden rule of belaying: Belay others as you’d like to be belayed. Focus on your leader, don’t get distracted, and pay attention.

>>Talk through how to belay a route beforehand. Maybe there are slab sections, roofs, near-groundfall clips, etc.; it helps to agree on how each section should be belayed so both partners are on the same page.

>>If you’re heavier than your climber, know how to give a dynamic belay (see below).

• 如果你被拉起来穿过障碍物，或跳到空中或撞向墙壁，穿着不露脚趾的鞋就可以保护你的脚。
• 保护用手套可以增加对绳子的控制力（包括对较细绳子的抓握），同时也可以保护你的手免于被绳子磨伤，更可以保护你的制动手被因拖过地面裹带上其他东西的绳子而受伤。（试想一下：因为仙人掌的刺刺在了保护员的手上，导致保护员彻底松开绳子）
• 检查确认你与岩壁之间是的路径通畅，保护距离适当（以防万一撞到障碍物），同时在前后移动变换位置的时候，也要小心松动的石头。如果发生这样的情况，你可能会将你保护的攀岩者从岩壁上拉下来。
• 这是做保护最基本的一点，但还是怎么说都不嫌多：在攀岩者离开地面开始攀登之前，一定要检查自己的保护系统和系在攀登者身上的绳结。
• 攀登者与保护者之间的交流是关键。要知道更多相关的信息，请看Know The Ropes。
• 如果你是个体重轻的保护员，不要把你自己固定在地面的锚点上。这样会导致攀岩者承受很猛烈的拉力，而你自己也讲被猛力拉扯。如果攀岩者明显比你重太多，而且有会发生冲坠的可能，那就要考虑换另外一个保护员了。
• 保护的黄金法则：保护别人就像自己在被保护一样。集中注意力到先锋者的身上，不要分心，要专注。
• 开始攀爬前，讨论一下要如何进行保护。攀爬路线上可能会有斜面部分、屋檐部分，或近地面的快挂点等；这将会有助于在对不同地形上如何保护达成共识，使保护员与攀岩者保持同步。
• 如果你的体重大于攀岩者，要学会如何进行动态保护。（详见下文）
  

>>Smaller belayers should consider using an assisted-braking device and standing really close to the base of the wall, near the first clip. This will help catch a fall and minimize the distance the heavier climber falls, which also minimizes the distance the climber has to yard up to get back on the route. Since lighter belayers will get pulled into the wall naturally, be aware of the lowest pieces of protection. We’ve heard horror stories of broken fingers as a result of being catapulted into the first draw.

>>Whenever you’re not feeding slack, be prepared with your brake hand in a locked position. The climber might be tired, off-route, out of sequence, scared, or even just evaluating a loose hold. If the climber isn’t climbing, he might be falling, and even when he is climbing, he might be about to fall!

>>Exercise situational awareness; know where your climber is and what he might hit if he takes a fall. He might need a bit more slack to clear a roof and fall into space, or he might need less to avoid hitting a ledge.

>>Keep tabs on the rope: the location of the midpoint (will you still be able to lower the climber?), where the end is, the amount of stretch you expect, that the coil is feeding smoothly to you, there are no knots in the rope, etc.

>>It’s your job to alert the climber if his leg gets between the rock and the rope (this can cause him to get flipped upside down in a fall and hit his head). If you see this happen, alert the climber by yelling up to him: “Joe, watch your leg!” or “Joe, watch the rope!”

>>It’s also your job to alert the climber if he has Z-clipped (clipped the rope from below a lower piece into a higher piece) or back-clipped (instead of the leader’s rope running up through the draw and away from the wall, the rope runs up through the draw and out between the biner and the wall. If you didn’t already know what these things are, consider taking a basic lead-belay course.) Yell up to him to correct his mistake.

>>When the climber is low to the ground, you’ll want less rope out to keep him from hitting the deck. As he moves up, you can keep a bit more slack in the system so he has ample rope to pull up and clip.

>>Anticipate clips and be super-active with the rope, whether he’s clipping below his waist or way above his head. You’ll need to quickly feed out slack to avoid short-roping him (meaning you stop the rope from feeding through, which is not only annoying for the climber, but could cause him to fall at an inopportune time), but if he can’t make the clip or drops the rope suddenly, you’ll want to quickly reel in slack to avoid a huge fall.

>>On the very start of a climb, the belayer might need to stand off to the side of the climber so he doesn’t land on your head if he falls. The belayer also might need to help the climber step over the rope by moving in closer to the wall or repositioning the rope.

>>Encourage and reassure your climber as much as you can. He might need that extra push to get through a hard or scary move. Simple words like, “You got it!” or “Keep fighting, Joe!” might go further than you think.

>>An assisted-braking device might not lock up completely if your climber is very light, if the climber sits back on the rope (instead of falling), or if there’s a lot of rope drag—more reasons to always have a hand on the brake side.

>>Before the climber makes the first clip or places his first piece, spot him by standing slightly behind and having your hands up, ready to guide his fall safely to the ground.

>>If the climber takes a fall higher on the route, you can assist him in getting back up by sitting back and putting all your weight on the rope while he pulls the rope down toward you. Time it right so you’re weighting the rope while he’s pulling himself up, and then quickly pull slack through your device. Repeat this process until he’s back to where he wants to be. Same goes for boinking: Make sure the rope is fully weighted when he’s pulling up.

>>To avoid aches and pains while belaying, shift your weight between feet, take a step to the side to slightly change your stance, move your neck and eyes as much as possible, and stay loose. To prEVENT and treat the dreaded belayer’s neck, check out this handy guide.

>>When lowering on a sport climb, step forward so you’re practically leaning against the rock directly under the First Bolt. Lowering the climber while standing away from the first bolt puts a tremendous amount of outward force on a bolt that is primarily designed for a downward force. Plus, this bolt sees more traffic and impact than almost any other bolt on the climb.

• 身材比较小的保护员应当使用具备辅助制动功能的保护器，并站在距离岩壁较近，靠近第一把快挂的地方。这将有助于以最小的冲坠距离冲坠制动住体重大的攀岩者，同样也使攀岩者以最短距离返回到攀爬线路上。因为体重较轻的保护者会毫无疑问地被拉向墙壁，因此要注意最下面的保护点。我们曾经听说过因为被弹到第一个快挂上而导致手指受伤的事儿。
• 当你不给绳的时候，你的制动手应保持一种锁定姿势。因为攀岩者可能会感到疲劳、可能会偏离路线，可能规划错动作，可能感到害怕，甚至是抓到了一个松动的手点。如果攀岩者不是在攀爬，那他就有可能脱落，甚至当他在攀爬的时候，也可能会发生冲坠！
• 练就对攀爬环境的意识；清楚认识你保护的攀岩者所在的位置，清楚如果发生冲坠，他有可能撞到哪里。他可能在翻屋檐的时候需要更多的绳长来避开屋檐，也可能需要收一点绳子来避免摔到平台上。
• 注意绳子上的记号：注意绳子的中点（你是否还要把攀岩者降下来？），绳子的末尾，你接下来要送绳的长度内是否顺畅，绳子上有没有绳结等信息。
• 如果绳子在攀岩者的腿后，那你有责任提醒他（绳子在腿后有可能使攀岩者在冲坠时被绳子拌住，大头朝下地撞到脑袋）。如果你看到绳子在攀岩者的腿后，就要对他喊：“张三，注意你的腿！”或者喊：“张三，注意你的绳！”
• 保护员还有一个责任就是在出现了Z-clipped或back-clipped的情况时要提醒攀岩者。要对他们大声喊叫，让他们纠正错误。Z-clipped是指，将绳子扣入快挂的时候从上一把快挂的下方而不是上一把快挂的顶端抽取绳子。back-clipped是指，扣入快挂的绳子系在攀岩者身上的这头应该是与墙壁相反朝外，而不是在夹在快挂和墙之间。如果你还不是很清楚这些都指的是什么，就应该考虑去上一节基础的先锋保护课程。
• 当攀岩者快到达地面的时候，你就要少给一点绳，以防攀岩者撞到地面。而当他在向上攀登的时候，你就要让绳子松一点，这样他就有足够的绳长可以向上拉绳子并将绳子扣入快挂。
• 不论攀岩者是在低于腰的位置将绳扣入快挂还是在高于头的位置将绳扣入快挂，你都要做到预判，并对绳子做出主动的调整。你需要迅速给绳，防止因绳子太短导致攀岩者拉不动绳子（拉不动绳子就意味着你可能是在保护过程中停止了送绳，这样不仅会领攀登者感动烦躁，也可能会不凑巧地令他冲坠），但当攀岩者不能扣入绳子或忽然间掉落了绳子的时候，你就需要迅速收绳，防止长距离冲坠的发生。
• 在攀爬开始的阶段，保护员可能需要站在攀岩者的另一侧，以防万一攀岩者发生冲坠砸到保护员的脑袋上。保护员还应该通过靠近岩壁和调整绳子的位置来防止攀岩者跨踩绳子。
• 尽可能多的鼓励和肯定你所保护的攀岩者。他可能需要来自于你的额外助力来通过难点或客服恐惧。使用“你行的！”或“李雷，加油！”这样简单的话语，就可能让他攀得更高。
• 如果你保护的攀岩者体重较轻，那带有辅助制动功能的保护期可能不能完全锁死。如果攀岩者坐在绳上（而不是冲坠）又或者绳子遇有很大的摩擦力，那就更应该一直将一只手放在制动端。
• 在攀岩者将绳子挂入第一把快挂或放置第一个保护点前，保护员应该站在略微靠后的地方观察攀岩者，并将双手举起，随时准备在他发生坠落的时候引导落地方向，保证他的安全。
• 如果攀岩者在线路高处发生冲坠，你可以在攀登者向下拉你这端拉绳子的时候，通过将全部体重集中向下使劲来帮助攀岩者回到攀爬路线上。当攀岩者向上拉自己的时候，你要对绳子施力，配合好时间，然后迅速收紧多余的绳子通过保护器。重复上述过程直到攀岩者回到他想要重新开始的地方。
• 为了防止保护员的疲劳，保护员应该左右换脚移动重心，并通过向旁边移步来微调保护距离，尽可能多地活动眼睛和脖子，保持放松。预防和治疗保护员颈椎病，可以点击这里this handy guide。
  

• 在运动攀岩中，当保护员下降攀岩者时，保护员应该向前移动步伐到紧贴岩壁处，最好在第一个挂片的正下方。如果在下降攀岩者的时候站得离第一个挂片较远，就会对挂片施加很大的向外的拉力，而挂片设计的受力方向是应该向下的。另外，一般来讲，第一个挂片在整条攀岩线路中的使用率和冲击力都远大于其他的挂片。
  

When the leader starts to fall, our first instinct is to lock down the rope quick and hard, minimizing the overall distance the climber will fall. This can cause a leader to slam hard into the wall, resulting in snapped ankles, jarred spines, and serious head injury if the climber falls upside down. A way to mitigate this is to aim for giving a “soft catch” by dynamic belaying, which eases the climber into the wall and greatly reduces the chance of injury. Keep in mind that a dynamic belay isn’t always appropriate and it’s an expert technique, so make sure the answers to the following questions are yes before you employ this method.

• Is the path of the fall free from ledges, slabby sections, or other obstacles (including the ground) that the climber would hit if she takes a longer fall? If these are present, give a catch that will land the climber in a spot that avoids these hazards altogether.
• Is the belayer a similar weight to the climber or heavier? A lighter belayer will get pulled up in the air when the heavier climber takes a fall, and that unintentional movement by the belayer will naturally result in a soft catch.
• Are you on a trad line with marginal gear? A soft catch will reduce the force on the piece catching a fall, which could mean the difference between a safe catch and pulling gear.
  

当先锋者发生冲坠时，我们的第一个本能反应就是快速猛力地制动住绳子，借此最小化攀岩者的坠落距离。但这样会使攀岩者猛力地撞向岩壁，导致脚踝受伤，脊柱震荡，如果攀岩者是大头朝下发生坠落的话还可能发生脑损伤。避免这种事情发生的一个方法就是运用动态保护，给攀岩者一个“舒适的制动”，这样可以降低攀岩者撞向岩壁的概率，避免受伤。切记，动态保护也并不总合适的，这是一门专业技术，因此，在你应用动态保护之前，要先确定你对以下三个的问题给出了肯定答案。

• 攀爬线路上有没有平台，没有斜面，或者其它的障碍物（包括地面）？这些都可能使攀岩者在发生长距离冲坠时受伤。如果攀爬的线路上正好有平台、斜面或障碍物，那保护员在制动的时候就要将攀岩者制动于避开这些危险地形的位置。
• 保护员的体重是轻于攀岩者还是重于攀岩者？攀岩者坠落的时候，体重轻的保护员会被拉到空中，保护员这个不经意地举动将很自然地使制动变得很舒适。
  

• 你是否在用临界安全底线的装备攀爬传统线路？那么，这种舒适的制动可能会降低保护点制动冲坠的受力，这也许就是安全制动还是拉出保护点之间的争议。
  

我们与物理学家，也同是攀岩者的Adam Sheer讨论了动态保护是如何实现的。当攀岩者的重力开始作用于绳子，保护者就起跳。保护者在这个时候就引入了一个向上的力，而此时，攀岩者向上拉保护员所费的力就变少了，这就相当于攀岩者来说，就等同于降低了保护员的重量。这样也延长了制动发生的时间，进而使得制动变得很舒服。攀岩者应该放松站立，做好被迅速拉起撞向岩壁的准备。通过放松双脚和双膝来降低冲击力。调整动态保护的跳跃是一项集艺术、科学和实践于一体的事儿，但有一点是可以肯定的，那就是在攀岩者开始向下施力的时候，你才向上跳。冲坠经常以迅雷不及掩耳的速度发生，所以当攀岩者离他最后一个保护点不是很高的时候，保护者的起跳时间基本可以与攀岩者的冲坠保持同步。而如果攀岩者发生冲坠的时所在高度高出最后一个保护点3米或更高，保护者就可以在起跳前登上一秒。

• 不要送多余的绳。送多余的绳等于增加了冲坠系数，导致出现比较粗暴的制动。如果在一个攀岩系统中，攀岩者以6米的绳长（坠落绳段的长度）冲坠了3米（坠落距离），那么冲坠系数就是0.5。如果保护员多给了1.5米绳子（相当于以7.5米的绳长冲坠了4.5米），那么冲坠系数就将增加到0.6，这样制动就变得非常猛烈（增加了冲击力）。所以，只有在为保证攀岩者不撞到障碍物的情况下，才可以多给一些绳。
• 不要不合时宜地起跳。如果保护员跳得太早，那保护员的重心就会在攀岩者达到最大冲击力的时候开始下降。保护员充当了平衡砝码的角色，如果这时他重心向下，那他落地向下的力将会被攀岩者的冲坠抵消，因而形成粗暴的制动。
• 不要向岩壁跑。三角学告诉我们，如果第一个快挂的高度高在6米或更高时，跑向岩壁就形成舒适的制动。（Scheer说，“相信我，我已经计算过了。”想了解更多这方面的知识，请浏览climbinghouse.com.)