登珠峰被抛弃事件登山公司回应：与事实不符

王伟光攀登珠峰是今年5月份的事情，现在已经11月，王伟光为什么选择在这个时候发布这些骇人听闻的事情呢？如果真的发生了这么离谱又严重的事情，觉得自己不公，大可以一下山就直接通过法律手段维护权益，为什么非要采用舆论的方式？难道是在大本营餐厅帐篷里面，王伟光经常说我的号要怎么样才能像***一样火，而兑现承诺吗？而事实是王伟光在国内各种社交媒体发布。事情如果真如王伟光所说，他不应该从珠峰下来就立刻选择通过法律手段解决吗？因此，出于自己想要退款的目的，他只能选择在网络上造谣、混淆是非、标题党、诋毁他人名誉，试图通过误导大众来达成自己的目的。

事实上，王伟光在下山后提出的要求是“退还其洛子峰费用”。（洛子峰：世界第4高峰，在珠峰登山季可与珠峰进行连登）。王伟光就选择了珠峰和洛子峰连登的方式。在我方大力劝阻三次，“登好一座山就够了”的前提下，王伟光仍然强烈要求连登洛子峰。然而，王伟光完全错误的高估了自己的能力，登珠峰的体力消耗使他没有能力进行洛子峰连登，天气的变化和自身的状态，再登洛子峰就会出现生命危险。因此，他想索要洛子峰的退款。然而，世界登山惯例从来没有登山退款这一说。攀登许可证相关一系列费用、营地等大多数费用早在登山前就已经产生，不存在退款的可能性。因为没有登顶，我们在今年6月12号就把王伟光已经支付的洛子峰登顶小费主动退还给了他。

不仅如此，王伟光在叫直升机前，我们一再确认直升机救援需要和生命体征出现相关问题才可以得到保险公司授权，自己乘坐直升机从2号营地下撤到大本营需要自费，他非常肯定直升机由自己支付，王伟光本人在他发布的文章中说他一定会支付C2营地到大本营的直升机费用。还声称“为啥要污蔑我不给钱呢”，然而事实是他拒不支付。这笔款项最后是我方进行的支付，我方已经仁至义尽。直到今天王伟光仍然没有将这笔款项支付给我方。（账单见下图）

王伟光在反驳中说他的装备都丢了，然而真的丢了吗？下山后我们亲自给他寄回，他亲自提供了地址。（见下山后发送的聊天记录）

最后，登山不同于其他活动，选择登山就是选择了承担风险。承担不了风险，不登就是了。王伟光本人主动、自愿且迫切地选择登山，就要承担登山带来的一切风险，更何况在海拔8000米以上的地方。于情于理，我们来看一看王伟光本人亲笔签名按手印的合同：

王伟光本人亲笔签名并按手印承诺：

“以上所有条款我已认真阅读，我自愿参加此次户外活动。对参与此次户外活动产生的一切风险及后果我个人自愿承担，不向他人和单位主张任何赔偿”

任何事情做过都会留下痕迹，王伟光的夏尔巴攀登珠峰多达13次。如果真的丢弃客户，他难道不知道这会留下痕迹吗？他难道不知道后果吗？大家仅凭王伟光的一面之词就抨击夏尔巴，甚至把夏尔巴说成谋杀，这是绝对不公平和扭曲事实的结论！事实上，王伟光的夏尔巴为了帮助他登顶，自愿在登顶前额外多携带一瓶氧气，并在更没有所谓的“抛弃”他。然而，现在却被王伟光进行这样的诋毁，实在令人心寒。

没有夏尔巴的帮助，地球上没有几个人可以登顶珠峰。多年来扎根于喜马拉雅山脉，他们是淳朴、善良、勤劳的民族。从1953年夏尔巴人丹增盖诺陪伴新西兰人希拉里首登珠峰，到今年Tenjen夏尔巴陪伴挪威女登山家打破14座8000米以上山峰的登顶用时记录，无数的夏尔巴将保护客户，把帮助客户登顶放在首要位置，他们不顾自己的安危，尽最大努力帮助客户。

然而在王伟光的笔下，这样的人们成为了“偷”他氧气的人，成为了“抛弃”他的人。这对这个常年身处雪山、不善言辞的民族来说是巨大的不公和污蔑！我们不能放任王伟光的一派胡言，因为这是对一个民族的质疑和抨击！

同时，我们已经同步发送关于珠峰攀登的最新规定。我们真心希望让更多的人了解登山这件事。希望更多的人对登山这件事有进一步的认知。这就是一项高风险运动，成年人自行思考后做决定，承担不了风险，不登就是了，但请一定不要把极限运动当享受，更不要觉得自己能够“征服”雪山和大自然，你的登顶背后，是无数后援团队和夏尔巴的努力。请不要忽视他们的付出、敬畏大自然。

附件：Asian Trekking回复原件

Subject: Comprehensive Update – Wang Weiguang's Climb with Shera Sherpa: Oxygen Usage, Summit, Descent, Separation from Sherpa, Sandu's Support

主题：全面更新-王伟光与希拉夏尔巴的攀登：氧气使用、登顶、下撤、与夏尔巴分离、三都的支持

2023.6.8

I am writing to provide you with a comprehensive update regarding the circumstances surrounding the descent of Wang Weiguang and Shera Sherpa from the summit. Based on my radio log, Dr. Ben’s notes and interviews with Shera Sherpa, Lhakpa Sherpa, Thilen Bhote and Sandu Sherpa, please find below a detailed account of the events that unfolded during the summit push of the expedition

我写这封信是为了向您提供有关王伟光（Wang Weiguang）和希拉-夏尔巴（Shera Sherpa）下撤的最新情况。根据我的无线电通讯记录、Ben 博士的笔记以及对 Shera Sherpa、Lhakpa Sherpa、Thilen Bhote 和 Sandu Sherpa 的采访，现将探险队冲顶过程中发生的事件详细说明如下。

On 17th May, just before 7:30pm, Shera and Wang Weiguang left from Camp 4 for the Summit Push, together with the rest of the Chinese team. Wang Weiguang was carrying one new oxygen cylinder which he was using and Shera carried 5 oxygen cylinders; 2 for himself and 3 for Wang Weiguang. It must be noted that the standard practice only required him to carry 2 bottles of oxygen but he decided to carry one more as a contingency.

5 月 17 日晚上 7 点半之前，Shera 和王伟光与中国登山队的其他队员一起从 4 号营地出发，前往顶峰推进点。王伟光携带了一个新的氧气瓶，他正在使用这个氧气瓶，Shera 则携带了 5 个氧气瓶：2 个给自己，3 个给王伟光。必须指出的是，标准做法只要求他携带两瓶氧气，但他决定多带一瓶以备不时之需。

Following standard practice, Shera gave a new cylinder to Wang Weiguang at the Balcony. At the south summit, Shera gave another new bottle of oxygen to Wang Weiguang because he saw that there were many climbers at the Hillary step and it would be difficult to change his cylinder if his oxygen ran out at the Hillary step. At 8:20 on the 18th of May 2023, Shera and Wang Weiguang summited Mt. Everest. The ascent and summit went smoothly and they returned back to South Summit, again, spending a long time in traffic jam at the Hillary step. Upon reaching back to the South Summit, Shera gave again a new bottle of oxygen to Wang Weiguang for the descent to Camp 4. Please note that this is the extra oxygen cylinder that Shera himself decided to carry to give Wang Weiguang more oxygen.

按照惯例，Shera 在阳台给了王伟光一个新的氧气瓶。在南峰，Shera 又给了王伟光一瓶新的氧气，因为他看到希拉里台阶上有很多登山者，如果他的氧气在希拉里台阶上用完了，就很难再给他换氧气瓶了。2023 年 5 月 18 日 8 时 20 分，Shera和王伟光登上了珠穆朗玛峰。顺利登顶后，他们返回南峰，又在希拉里台阶处堵车了很长时间。回到南峰后，Shera 又给了王伟光一瓶新的氧气，让他下撤到 4 号营地。请注意，这是 Shera 为了给王伟光提供更多氧气而决定自己携带的氧气瓶。

As they were descending from the South Summit Shera started to have problems with his vision and burning in his eyes. He carried on climbing down with Wang Weiguang to the Balcony. They reached the Since Wang Weiguang was filming on his phone Shera said that his eyes were burning and that he couldn’t see so they should keep moving. Wang Weiguang said something in Chinese and waved Shera to keep going. Shera checked Wang Weiguang’s oxygen and there was still 130 Bars of oxygen in his cylinder at this time. Just as they had been doing since coming down from the South Summit, Shera went first and descended from the Balcony to the next anchor and waited for Wang Weiguang to join him. But Wang Weiguang didn’t come down. Shera contacted Sandu and told him that he had been waiting a long time but Wang Weiguang has still not descended. Sandu told Shera that he is coming down with Balu and will bring Wang Weiguang down with him.

当他们从南峰下撤时，Shera 的视力开始出现问题，眼睛灼痛。他和王伟光一起继续向下到了阳台。当他们到达王伟光正在用手机拍摄的阳台时，Shera 说他的眼睛发烫，看不清东西，所以他们应该继续前进。王伟光用中文说了几句，然后挥手让 Shera 继续走。Shera 检查了王伟光的氧气，此时他的氧气瓶里还有 130 bars的氧气，就像他们从南峰下来后一直做的那样，Shera 先走，从阳台下到下一个锚点，等待王伟光与他会合。但王伟光没有下来。Shera 联系了三都，告诉他自己已经等了很久，但王伟光还没有下来。三都告诉Shera，他正和栾玉堃（八路）一起下山，并将带着王伟光一起下山。

It must also be noted that Shera was carrying Wang Weiguang’s empty oxygen cylinders at this time, as he had given all the new full cylinders to Wang Weiguang at the Balcony, at the south summit during the ascent and again at the south summit during the descent.

还必须指出的是，Shera 此时正背着王伟光的空氧气瓶，因为他在阳台、上山时在南峰顶以及下山时在南峰顶把所有新的满瓶氧气瓶都给了王伟光。

At 17:45 Lhakpa called to say that he met Shera (Wang Weiguang’s Sherpa) about half way between the balcony and the south col. Shera was snow-blind and descending slowly by feeling the rope.  At the same time, at 17:45, Thilen Bhote went up from Camp 4 with medicines and extra oxygen to help Wang Weiguang.

17:45 时，Lhakpa打电话说，他在阳台和南山坳之间的半路上遇到了Shera

（王伟光的夏尔巴）。Shera患有雪盲，正在摸着绳子缓慢下山。 与此同时，17:45，Thilen Bhote 带着药品和额外的氧气从 4 号营地上去帮助王伟光。

When Sandu reported that he met Wang Weiguang , Wang Weiguang was one anchor below the Balcony; he was sitting on the snow and not descending. It is also important to note that Wang Weiguang was using oxygen at this time, despite Luan Yukun’s report. It is also clear from the video to see that Wang Weiguang is on oxygen and that there is a cylinder in his bag which is the reason why his bag is tilted down with the weight of the cylinder and hanging from his right shoulder. However, Wang Weiguang was not wearing gloves so Sandu took off his own down mittens and gave them to Wang Weiguang. To make Wang Weiguang more comfortable, Sandu also took off Wang Weiguang’s googles and helmet. Sandu kept the goggles in his bag and gave them to Li Yongsheng at Base Camp, however, because sandu had given his own gloves to Wang Weiguang, his fingers were cold and clumsy and Wang Weiguang’s helmet slipped from his Hand (he did not throw away his helment.) From that point, Sandu brought down Luan Yukun and Wang Weiguang in turns, one anchor at time.

三都报告说他见到王伟光时，王伟光正在阳台下面的一个锚地上，他坐在雪地上，没有下山。还必须指出的是，尽管栾玉堃报告了王伟光的情况，但他当时正在使用氧气。从视频中也可以清楚地看到，王伟光正在吸氧，他的包里有一个氧气瓶，这就是他的包因氧气瓶的重量而向下倾斜并挂在右肩的原因。但王伟光没有戴手套，三都就把自己的羽绒手套脱下来给王伟光戴上。为了让王伟光更舒服一些，三都还摘下了王伟光的护目镜和头盔。然而，由于三都把自己的手套给了王伟光，他的手指又冷又笨，王伟光的头盔从他的手上滑落（他没有扔掉头盔）。

Shera and Lhakpa radioed me at 19:10 to say they reached Camp 4 and immediately started boiling water and eating some food for energy. Shera then took a new bottle of oxygen and a thermos of water for Wang Weiguang and went back up at 20:30.

Shera和Lhakpa在 19:10 用无线电告诉我，他们到达了 4 号营地，并立即开始烧水和吃一些食物补充能量。随后，Shera给王伟光带了一瓶新的氧气和一保温瓶水，并于 20:30 返回营地。

In the meantime, at 19:45 Thilen reached Sandu who was helping down Wang Weiguang at the time. Thilen gave Wang Weiguang a new oxygen cylinder and took over from Sandu to help him down. Sandu descended to Camp 4 because he was exhausted while Thilen brought down Wang Weiguang. At 23:22 Shera radioed to say that he has also reached Wang Weiguang and Thilen 3 anchors above the ice field at South Col. From here he took over from Thilen to bring Wang Weiguang down. As Wang Weiguang still had plenty of oxygen given to him by Thilen, Shera did not change his cylinder and continued to bring him down. Shera thinks it was around 12:30 or 01:00am when they reached Camp 4 but is not certain.

同时，19:45，Thilen 找到了当时正在帮助王伟光下山的三都。Thilen 给了王伟光一个新的氧气瓶，并接替三都帮助他下山。三度因体力不支下到了 4 号营地，而 Thilen 则把王伟光带了下来。23:22 时，Shera用无线电说，在南坳冰原以上第三个锚点处他找到了王伟光和Thilen。由于 Thilen 给王伟光的氧气还很充足，Shera没有更换氧气瓶，而是继续带他下山。Shera认为他们到达 4 号营地时大约是凌晨 12:30 或 01:00，但并不确定。

I would also like to make a note that Wang Weiguang was not abandoned by the Sherpas. Wang Weiguang took a long time to descend one anchor down from the balcony by himself but there was always a Sherpa to support him; first Sandu, then Thilen Bhote and then again Shera. He was brought to Camp 4 by Shera, but I understand that Wang Weiguang doesn’t remember this. It’s highly likely that Wang Weiguang may have been suffering from High Altitude Cerebral Edema as his recollection of events does not match what happened on that day. Above 8000m, it would have been impossible for him to descend without using oxygen and having Sherpa Support.

我还想说明的是，王伟光并没有被夏尔巴抛弃。王伟光一个人花了很长时间才从阳台上的一个锚上下来，但始终有一个夏尔巴在支持他；先是三度，然后是Thilen Bhote，然后又是Shera。他是被 Shera 带到 4 号营地的，但我知道王伟光并不记得这件事。王伟光极有可能患有高海拔脑水肿，因为他对事件的回忆与当天发生的事情不符。在海拔 8000 米以上，如果没有氧气和夏尔巴人的支持，他是不可能下山的。

The next day, Shera changed Wang Weiguang’s oxygen cylinder at camp 4 and they descended together. The Plan from the beginning was always to descend to Camp 2. There was never a plan to stay in Camp 3. They were both very slow but Wang Weiguang was descending in front of Shera. Coming into Camp 3 at round 19:00, Shera lost sight of Wang Weiguang again, who had gone into a tent by himself to rest. After Shera took a small rest in Camp 3, he continued to descend because he thought Wang Weiguang had gone ahead, following the plan to keep going to Camp 2.  He couldn’t see ahead of him how far ahead Wang Weiguang was because he was still suffering from snow-blindness. It was only when he reached Camp 3 that night that he realized that Wang Weiguang had not gone ahead but stayed behind at Camp 3 without telling him.

第二天，Shera 在 4 号营地为王伟光更换了氧气瓶，两人一起下撤。从一开始，我们的计划就是下到 2 号营地。从来没有计划留在 3 号营地。两人的下撤速度都很慢，但王伟光的下撤速度快于Shera。在 19:00 左右进入 3 号营地时，Shera 又不见了王伟光的踪影，他一个人进了帐篷休息。Shera 在 3 号营地稍作休息后，继续下撤，因为他认为王伟光已经走在前面，按照计划继续向 2 号营地前进。 由于雪盲，他看不清王伟光在前面走了多远。当晚，当他到达 3号营地时（此处应为2号营地），他才意识到王伟光并没有走在前面，而是瞒着他留在了 3 号营地。

The next day Wang Weiguang descended by himself to Camp 2 and requested to take a helicopter to Base Camp from there. Wang Weiguang was told that the helicopter was not booked for him and that he would have to pay for the flight down to Base Camp from Camp 2. This was made clear to him on the radio and he repeatedly acknowledged that he was ready to pay for the Helicopter. However, once he flew down to base camp he has refused to pay for the helicopter flight from Camp 2.

第二天，王伟光独自下到 2 号营地，要求从那里乘坐直升机前往大本营。王伟光被告知，直升机没有为他预订，他必须支付从 2 号营地飞往大本营的费用。他在无线电中清楚地听到了这一消息，并一再表示愿意支付直升机的费用。然而，当他飞到大本营后，却拒绝支付从 2 号营地起飞的直升机费用。

I would also like to make a note about the proposed climb on Lhotse peak. The Sherpa’s had kept 6 bottles of oxygen for Wang Weiguang at Lhotse Camp 4, together with 2 tents. However, taking such a long time to summit and descend from the top of Everest meant that he was not qualified to attempt Lhotse the next day. It would simply have put him in and the Lhotse sherpa in immense danger.

我还想说明一下洛子峰的攀登计划。夏尔巴在洛子峰 4 号营地为王伟光准备了 6 瓶氧气和 2 顶帐篷。然而，从珠峰山顶登顶到下撤需要如此长的时间，这意味着他没有能力在第二天尝试攀登洛子峰。这只会让他和洛子峰的夏尔巴陷入巨大的危险之中。

I hope that this report gives you clarity about the events on the descent of Shera and Wang Weiguang from the Summit. At the same time I would also like you to take into consideration that Shera has summited 14 times in the past and has never abandoned his client. It would be impossible for him to be this successful in his career if he ever abandoned a Client. His experience and commitment to Wang Weiguang’s safety can also be seen in the fact that he carried an entire extra bottle in case of emergency which undoubtedly helped Wang Weiguang to descend to safety. It was very disappointing to hear that Shera was thought to have taken away Wang Weiguang’s oxygen, when in fact he did the opposite.

我希望这份报告能让你们清楚地了解 Shera 和王伟光下撤登顶的事件。同时，我也希望你们考虑到，Shera 过去曾 14 次登顶珠峰（14年里有13次），从未抛弃过他的客户。如果他抛弃过客户，他的事业不可能如此成功。他的经验和对王伟光安全的承诺还体现在，他携带了一整瓶备用氧气，以备不时之需，这无疑帮助王伟光安全下山。令人失望的是，有人认为 Shera 夺走了王伟光的氧气，而事实上他所做的恰恰相反。

Going forward, I recommend a thorough analysis of the incident to strengthen our safety protocols and procedures. By learning from this experience, we can enhance the safety and well-being of future climbers and expeditions.

接下来，我建议对此次事件进行彻底分析，以加强我们的安全协议和程序。通过从这次事件中吸取经验教训，我们可以提高未来登山者和探险队的安全和福祉。

附件完。

四川极致探险户外运动有限公司

尼泊尔Asian Trekking

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二零二三年十一月六日