| 本帖最后由 dol528phin 于 2015-1-16 11:09 编辑 攀了一个冰季，到现在还没有尝试先锋，只进行过简单的模拟训练。一直没有先锋的原因除了确实知道先锋攀冰的危险性，另外一个原因就是心理一直有障碍。正巧看到了George McEwan的这篇关于攀冰心理的文章，就拿来一读，权作自我心理辅导了。希望对和我一样正想完成“处女”先锋的童鞋们有所帮助。也欢迎攀冰大牛们加入到讨论中，分享自己的经验。正文如下。 Ice Climbing - Physical and Mental Adviceby George McEwan Dec/2011 关于攀冰的心理和生理建议 翻译 芽子 "COME ON.......Keep it together...place that tool, weight it - ok move on it. Now the other - shit! The ice is crap! Come on stay cool - that's good - looks like good ice and a rest above. Place a tool – breathe, keep breathing, keep your weight on your feet - good stuff. Clear the ice - come on - keep breathing, the bloody screw won't bite! COME ON YA BASTARD!! Relax - that's it stay relAXEd. COME ON GET IN! Great clip it – breath in two three four out two three four - that's it relax. Nice one! Not far now - weight on your feet... easy ground. Ya beauty! Stay focused - weight the tool. Ok place the other - move up nice one..." Hanging off the belay, drained yet feeling very pleased with myself, I see an ice axe briefly appear at the edge of the climb then whack into the brittle ice amid a spray of ice chips followed closely by Matey's grinning face as he pulls over the bulge on the pillar. "Nice lead! You looked really relaxed on that pitch " he says clipping into the belay... “加油...保持双脚并拢...打镐...，测试承重——好的，向上迈一步。现在再打另一只镐——妈的！这冰也太屎了！加油，保持冷静——很好——这块冰看起来不错，上去休息一下。打镐——呼吸——保持呼吸——双腿受力——好样的。清理碎冰——继续——保持呼吸——呃，冰锥打不进去了！加油，丫的，混蛋！放松——很好保持放松。继续！太好了——挂绳——吸气，2，3，4，呼气2，3，4——很好，放松。这下不错！不远了，双脚受力，好脚点。不错！专注点——冰镐承重。好的，再上另一镐——向上迈步——好的...” 保护站上，我筋疲力竭，但为自己刚才的表现感到高兴，我看到一个冰镐干脆地出现在了冰壁边缘，并深深地打入了被冰晶覆盖的脆冰里，紧接着出现了Matey的笑脸，他打镐向上，一边将自己扣入保护一边说“领攀得好！这短绳距你看起来攀得轻松极了！”...... Fear and Stress Like the swan moving gracefully across the smooth surface of a lake, with its feet going ten to the dozen under the water, so it is the same for the ice climber. Outwardly cool, focused, each tool placement an exercise in precision, assisting economical upward movement. Yet within the climber's head there is full on action as their brain struggles to deal with the vast amount of information that is vying to be processed. When pushing personal boundaries and moving into the realm of the unexpected, where there is the possibility of a fall, real or imagined, then the climber has to be able to deal with a variety of conflicting psychological and physiological demands. These conflicting demands can be summed up in one word. Stress. A manageable amount of stress gives the lead climber an exciting edge leading to an increase in the climber's performance. Not coping with that stress can lead to the exact opposite, which if you are lucky will see you back of a pitch; or if you are unlucky, wait until you are committed before the black dog of fear leaps out from the dark depths of your mind to throttle and constrict your upward progress, reducing it to a panicky heart in mouth upwards wobble. This article describes the relationship between our physical and mental performance on an ice climb, and gives some very simple, but easy to use Top Tips for managing your own physical and mental stress on a climb and helping you maintain that steely eyed focus. 恐惧和紧张 就如同天鹅轻拨红掌般地优雅划过平静水面，攀冰者亦看似如此。表面看上去是那样冷静、专注、每次打镐都精准到位，规划最有效的上攀动作。然而，攀冰者却在上攀的过程中处理着大量的信息，内心充满了挣扎。 当攀冰者被推向自己舒适范围的边缘，面对未知，面对不论是想像中的还是确实可能发生的冲坠时，攀冰者都会有处理各种各样的心理和生理的冲突的需求。这些冲突需求可以被总结为一个词：紧张。 可控范围内的紧张情绪可以使进行先锋攀的攀冰者处于兴奋的边缘，从而提高攀冰技能。而超出可控范围内的紧张恰恰适得其反。如果你够幸运，一段绳距结束后还你可能没什么问题；如果你不够幸运，那么在你下定决心之前，你内心黑暗的深处就会跳出一个恶魔压制你、阻止你继续攀登，消磨你的意志直到你崩溃。这篇文章介绍了在攀冰过程中心理表现和生理表现之间的关系，并给出了简单且易于应用的建议来控制攀冰时的心理和生理的紧张，有助于攀冰者集中注意力。 Fight or Flight In climbing fear can arise from many things, the most obvious being fear of falling - and on ice climbs falling is serious. Recent improvements in ice protection and equipment mean that ice protection is eASIer and faster to place, and given certain parameters such as the condition of the ice, more reliable. Still, the fact remains that taking a fall on an ice climb, with all that sharp metal stuff hanging off you, will more than likely lead to injury. So you see that on an ice route fear of injury is a real fear. Humans have evolved a survival mechanism called 'flight or fight'. Simply put when faced with a threat we very quickly (sometimes instantaneously) evaluate the threat, see if we can overcome it i.e. fight it, or if not make a run for it. That's fine if running away from Big Bears or a bunch of nutters' hell bent on using your head as a household decoration, but it is a tad inconvenient when you are strung out and stapled to an ice pitch with your tools and ropes. Whether we decide to stand and fight, or make for the hills our body sets us up for the forthcoming action by firing a huge dose of adrenaline into our system. This shot of adrenaline will produce an intense physical reaction in our bodies - that familiar fast beating heart, shallow breathing and butterflies in the stomach feeling. However, this adrenaline hit is a two edged sword. It can fire us up for undreamt of strength which well see us through the forthcoming action – or it can cause an adrenaline soaked, panicky rush. The climber is faced with the chAllenge of controlling their state of 'arousal' such that they are maintaining a balance between the positive effects of this 'adrenaline rush' and it's destructive negative effects – panicky 'rushing'. Initially whether we choose to stand and fight (Climb) or run away is a choice we make, and is affected by a variety of factors including past sUCCess (succeeding on climbing routes as challenging in the past), past failures (having a scare on similar climbs in the past), current emotional state (scared/relaxed due to the current situation), self confidence (I can do this!), and how committed to the climb you are (both mentally and physically). As we perhaps know all too well, although we may decide to leave the ground and start climbing, part way up the climb we might find ourselves facing an emotional crISIS and a resultant change of heart. So how do we go about dealing with this potentially dangerous performance degrading set of behaviours? 开战还是开溜 攀冰过程中，恐惧来自多方面，而最明显的恐惧就是对冲坠的恐惧——冲坠在攀冰中是很严重的。近年来，冰上保护技术和装备的改善都意味着攀冰的保护较之以前要更容易、更快捷，更可靠，并且更有参数可依，比如冰况参数。但实际上，你身上带着各种尖锐的铁家伙，一旦冲坠，结果很可能不紧紧是受伤。所以说，攀冰过程中怕受伤才是最本质的恐惧。 人类都有一个生存机制，叫做“开战还是开溜”。在人类面对威胁或突如其来的事情时，这个机制就开启，我们会非常快地评估这一威胁，看看是否可以战胜它。如果可以，就开战；如果不可以，就开溜。如果面对一只大狗熊或一群不要命的疯子时，你可以选择开溜。但是当你的身上连着绳子，拿着冰镐挂在冰壁上还的时候，想开溜就没那么容易了。 不论我们做出什么样的决定，我们的生理都会立即有所反映，在体内为产生大量的肾上腺素，为稍后的行动做准备。这种肾上腺素将会对我们的生理产生强烈的影响——比如心跳加速，呼吸急促和情绪上的忐忑。然而，肾上腺素是一把双韧剑。它能让在我们稍后的行动中表现出超乎想像的能力，或者让我们惊慌失措手忙脚乱。攀冰者面临着控制情绪激动的问题，他们要将肾上腺素的影响平衡在打了鸡血一样的积极影响和张皇不安的消极影响之间。首先，无论攀冰者做出攀冰或是不攀冰的决定，都是受到了一系列因素的影响。这些因素包括过去的成功（过去攀爬过的具有挑战性线路的成功例子），过去的失败（曾经吓尿了的攀爬经历），当下的情绪（由现状所带来的恐惧/放松），自信心（我能做到！），和攀登的决心（精神上的和心理上的）。尽管我们已经了解全面，并已经决定离地准备攀冰了，但你还会发现，在攀登的过程中你同样可能会面临情绪危机，导致心态发生变化。所以，攀冰者如何才能更好地处理这种攀登时的潜在危险和会令表现打折的情况呢？ The Ice Climbers Leading Skills Toolbox To see how individual aspects of our ice climbing relate to each other we can divide our climbing performance into four main complimentary components: Physical– our muscular strength, power and endurance. Technical– our climbing movement skills, use of tools, proficiency in using ice-climbing protection etc. Tactical– how we go about climbing the route such as where we stop to place gear, rest, identify where the crux is etc. Mental– what goes on in our heads and the strategies we have to manage this. 先锋攀冰的必要技能 为了看清楚攀冰过程中各个方面是如何相互影响的，我们把攀冰运动分为了四个部分： 生理——攀冰者的肌肉力量、力量和耐力。 技术——攀冰中的移动技巧、冰镐的运用、冰面保护点的熟练运用等。 战术——如何攀登线路，比如在哪里停下放置冰锥、在哪里休息、辨识哪里是技术难点等。 心理——洞察心理情绪的变化，以及管控情绪的策略。  As Diagram 1 illustrates our mental skills i.e. our ability to manage the stress of leading (and not as in how psycho you are!) links all the other elements together. Our brain controls how everything else works, or doesn't. Each element in the loop has a direct and immediate effect on the others in the loop. As each element is fed through our brain it has a direct impact on our emotional state, likewise whatever is going on in our brains has an immediate impact on our physical performance - in effect a feedback loop. So in our ice climbing our weakest element will have a profound effect on our overall performance, as our weaknesses pull us back more than our strengths pull us forward. So by identifying what is hindering your climbing and focusing on developing that element you will, theoretically at least, raise your overall game. Ah but there's the rub. Many ice climbers who become pumped on a climb reckon if they could only become 'stronger' then all will be grand. Yet if they had a close look at the reasons why they became pumped they might find that this happened not because of their perceived weak, stick like skinny arms but because they were overtly 'aroused' i.e. they let the mental stress of the situation get the better of them and started to hold onto their tools too tightly for example. What I will outline below are some very easy to learn and use techniques covering the technical, tactical and mental components of leading ice climbs. Developing techniques that assist us in staying relaxed, calm and controlled on an ice climb can mean we use our physical reSources more efficiently and raise the chances of a safe, successful and stress free ascent. 如图1所示，我们的心理素质，也就是我们控制先锋压力的能力，与所有其他每个要素之间都密切联系。我们的大脑控制着每个要素的运转与否。而图中的各个要素之间也都相互直接影响。正因为每一个要素都影响着我们的大脑，这就意味着这些要素会直接影响到我们的情绪，我们大脑发生的变化也会对我们的身体表现有一个直接的影响——这实际上就是一个反馈回路。 所以，在攀冰的过程中，我们的弱势方面将会对我们的整体表现有一个很深刻的影响。虽然我们的强势可以助我们更上一层楼，但弱势比起强势来总能扯更多的后腿。因此，从理论上讲，认清自己的弱势，并予以专门的训练是可以提高攀冰的整体水平的。 但也有一个问题。很多在攀冰过程中觉得胳膊酸胀的攀冰者都认为自己应该练得更强壮，从而提高攀冰技术。然而，如果他们仔细审视，就会发现他们胳膊酸胀的原因并不是因为胳膊太细太没劲儿，而是因为他们都过于“紧张”，具体点说就是，当紧张情绪占了上风时，攀冰者就会使劲抓握冰镐，造成胳膊的酸胀。下面我要说的是一些简单易学、易上手的先锋攀冰技巧，其中包括技术方面的技巧、策略方面的技巧和心理方面的技巧。运用发展这些技巧可以使我们始终保持放松、冷静、可控的状态，更有效地运用体能，从而提高安全系数和成功几率，并轻松登顶。 |
| 本帖最后由 dol528phin 于 2015-1-16 11:41 编辑 Technical Top Tip There is a key technique based top tip, sometimes overlooked by noobie ice climbers, which can go a long way to assisting our ideal of achieving a state of relaxed steely focus. Despite advances in ice protection, the very nature of ice means protection can still be strenuous or difficult to place, and falling with all that metalwork dangling off you will still in all likelihood land you in hospital. To guard against this a basic concept in ice climbing is making sure each tool placement is as good as you can get. It is worth taking the time to ensure good placements, as opposed to making a poor placement, then saying 'bugger that - it's ok' and then placing the next tool whilst all the time worrying about whether that last one will hold! Chances are the next placement will be poor as you are too busy stressing about the last one. This cycle continues until a) you finish the pitch/find a rest, or b) your tools pop and you take a screamer. Good placements are the key to running it out on a gnarly pitch. By ensuring each placement is solid i.e. is in itself an anchor you generate a great deal of confidence to push it out past your protection. The theory works on the basis if your feet or a placement blow the surviving placement(s) stop you taking a BIG FALL. I've seen this happen with one of my mates when pulling over an ice overhang. When the ice his feet were on collapsed. He fell onto his tools which luckily were well placed. After an adrenaline-fuelled couple of pull ups he re-established contact with the ice. Just as well as he was way above his last decent ice screw. 技术建议 这里先说一个关键性的，但又经常被攀冰新手忽略的技术建议，而这个建议恰能使我们在实现理想的过程中以一种放松并专注的心态走得更远。 尽管攀冰的保护技术已经有所发展，但在自然冰壁上放置冰锥仍然是一项费力又痛苦的事儿，而在身上带着那么多利器的情况下发生冲坠也就意味着你很可能会受伤。为了防止这些事情发生，最基本的理念就是在攀冰的时候要保证每一镐都尽可能地稳固。花费时间确保打镐的稳固是非常必要的，反之，如果打镐不稳，只是马马虎虎的话，那么在你打入下一镐的时候你都会一直担心这一镐是否能承住你！然后你的下一镐就会因为一直纠结这一镐而同样打得很烂。这种状态会一直循环下去，直到要么你完成了这段绳距或到达了一个可以休息调整的地方，要么你的镐点没发回作用，紧接着你发出了一声惨叫。 稳固的打镐是攀登陡峭冰壁的关键。确认每一镐都稳固如锚点，这样可以令你产生足以超过保护点的勇气，继续攀登。如果你两只冰爪踢冰的位置或一个冰镐打入的位置爆掉了，那么这时候打得稳固的另一只镐将会是救命的一镐（或两镐都稳固），你可能因此而避免遭受长距离冲坠。我曾经看过这种事儿发生在我同伴的身上。当时他正在翻过一个冰檐，脚下的脚点忽然都崩塌了，他双脚蹬空将全部重量吊在了冰镐上，所幸他这两镐都非常结实。在肾上腺素的激励下，他奋力做了几个引体，才又让自己的双脚踩到冰壁。而他离上一根放置的冰锥有好长一段距离（可能会出现长距离的摆荡冲坠，很危险）。Mental Top Tips Although good technical technique is the key to climbing safely on ice, maintaining a relaxed focus will help you maintain and use best technique. As we have seen becoming scared leads to your body becoming physically tense with a resultant effect on our physical performance and co-ordination. In ice climbing this sees the climber grip their tools tighter, with the result that their forearms become pumped. As your arms become pumped so does this affect your swing and your ability to place your tools with the resultant 'jelly arm'. As the placements become poorer so you become more scared. Your footwork will also be affected as you stamp and stomp your front points into the ice in an effort to achieve something that feels like a stable platform. To maintain focus and deal with this physical and mental arousal the climber can use a basic set of mental skills. 心理建议 尽管好的技术技巧是安全攀冰的关键，但保持一个放松且专注的情绪更有助于技巧的运用。正如我们前面图例中看到的，恐慌会导致身体紧张，然后影响身体的活动能力和协调。 在攀冰过程中，身体紧张可以表现为过度用力抓握冰镐，导致前臂迅速酸胀。当你的前臂酸胀，你那“软瘫瘫”的胳膊就影响到了你的挥镐和冰锥的放置。而当你觉得冰锥放置的也不好时，你就变得更加紧张。你的脚法也会在你使劲踩踏前齿入冰以达到稳定的时候受到影响。 为了保持专注，应对身体和精神上的紧张情绪，攀冰者可以利用一些基础的心理技能。 Breathing Here is a small experiment... Sitting down pick up a pen or pencil in your hand. Start to twirl the pen/pencil between your thumb and fingers – ensure this is done at steady rate. Now hold your breath for as long as you can whilst twirling the pen. What did you notice happening to your ability to twirl the pen and the speed it was twirling? How would you describe your emotional state during the exercise? Here is another small experiment. You can do this whilst doing the same pen-twirling motion. Sit yourself down in a comfortable position. Imagine a length of thread is attached to the top of your head, and then imagine this being gently pulled such that it lifts your head up. Next take in a deep breath through your nose as you count to four, slowly (as you take this breath imagine a lead ball inside your belly, which gently and slowly sinks down into the bottom of your belly as you breath in). At the end of this in-breath start to breath out, again slowly, through your mouth for another count of four. What did you notice happening to your ability to twirl the pen and the speed it was twirling? How would you describe your emotional state during the exercise? How did that compare with the previous exercise? Hopefully what you will have noticed is that in the first exercise the pen should have started to twirl a bit faster and bit more erratically as the lack of oxygen causes you to start stressing. In the second exercise the speed and ease at which you twirled the pen will have stayed the same, and you will have felt relaxed. 呼吸 一则小试验... 坐好，拿一支铅笔或钢笔在手。开始用拇指和食指转笔——保证转笔速度稳定。 现在，屏住呼吸，屏息时长与转笔时长相等。 你发现你转笔的技能发生了什么变化？转笔速度发生了什么变化？ 你会怎样描述你在这一练习中的情绪呢？ 另一则小测试 你可以在第一个测验的基础上加入这些。 调整一个很舒适的姿势坐好。 想想你的头顶与一根很长的线连着，然后这根线被轻轻拉起，你的头也跟着被拉了起来。 然后用鼻子深吸一口气，心理慢慢地数4个数（同时想着你的肚子里有个铅球，在你吸气的时候球慢慢地轻轻下沉，直到你肚子的底部） 在吸气完成之后，开始慢慢地用嘴呼气，再数4个数。 有没有注意到这种做法对你转笔的技术和速度起到了什么影响？ 在这个测验里，你又如何描述你的情绪状态？ 希望你可以感受得到，在第一个测验中，转笔的速度会紊乱并变快，这就是因为缺氧而造成的紧张。而在第二个测试中，你的转笔速度应该是匀速的，并且你也会感觉非常的放松。Do you hold your breath when you climb? That last question might not have an obvious answer. Based on my experience of teaching and coaching climbing I'd say the majority of climbers would tend to hold their breath whilst moving, or at least take very shallow breaths such that at the end of the pitch they will be gasping. Not from the aerobic demands of the pitch but simply from not breathing enough. Using breathing to control your emotional state is very simple. In fact controlled deep breathing is used a great deal in a variety of meditation and martial arts practice. You can use this breathing technique whilst climbing when you reach a suitable rest point and become aware that your breathing is fast and shallow. Do the deep breathing exercise for a count of four cycles. You can also co-ordinate your breathing with your movement, although this takes a lot of practice. As you move you breathe out through your mouth. You move for as long as you breathe out. Re-establish your balance, breathe, then next time you move, breathe out. At first this will tend to feel very awkward, but with practice this will you to maintain a nice steady, relaxed and flowing climbing movement. 攀冰时，你时候屏住呼吸？ 标题中提出的问题可能不会有一个很明确的答案。但基于我的攀冰教学经验，我想说大部分的攀冰者都习惯在攀登过程中屏住呼吸，或者只是浅浅地呼吸，以至于在完成一段绳距后都会气喘吁吁。而这气喘吁吁并不是由于攀冰对氧气的需求，而仅仅是因为攀冰者呼吸的不够。 运用呼吸来控制情绪状态是非常简单的。事实上，有意识地深呼吸已经在冥想和武术练习中得到了广泛的应用。当你攀登到一个达舒适的休息点并意识到自己的呼吸急而浅时，就可以运用一下呼吸技巧，试着做四轮呼吸练习。 你还可以将呼吸与你的攀登结合起来，尽管这需要大量的练习。当你攀登的时候，用嘴呼气，嘴呼气多久，就上攀多久。重新建立平衡、吸气、然后再攀登，再呼气。开始的时候你可能感觉很奇怪，但是经过一段练习，你的攀冰就将变得稳固、放松并且流畅了。 Self Talk Imagine whilst you are climbing that your mate belaying you is constantly shouting up at you telling you how crap you are, how poor those placements are, how hard the climb is and how weak you are. What effect do you think that will have on your climbing performance? Now imagine your mate down at the belay is occasionally shouting up how great you look, how solid those placements are and generally being encouraging. What effect do you think that will have on your climbing performance? A more positive effect perhaps? Now I'm not suggesting that you have your mate shout up positive things at the crag but your inner voice is the voice that you hear all the time whilst climbing. For many people this inner voice has a tendency to focus on the negative and scary aspects of running it out past your gear – this will have the same effect as your mate shouting negative comments – undermining your self-confidence. Self-talk is a simple but extremely powerful tool. With self-talk you harness the power of this inner voice by having it support and encourage good technique. So as you climb you consciously have your inner voice say stuff such as – "That's great you are moving well" "Good placement. Excellent! Trust it place the next tool, Good now move your feet up. Breath out and relax. Excellent" "Remember to keep breathing – good" And so on. Here the key is to have your inner voice emphasise good technique and/or positive behaviours and reward it with praise. You can do this either quietly to yourself, or some climbers find that talking out loud helps them. Whatever works for you. 自语 想象一下，当你攀冰的时候，给你打保护的搭档不停地对你大喊大叫，说你有多差劲，你的打镐有多烂，你爬得线有多难，还说你有多弱。那你攀冰的时候会受到什么影响？ 再想象，给你打保护的搭档时不时地夸奖你，说你看起来有多帅，打镐有多结实，还一直激励你。那你攀冰的时候又会受到什么影响？是不是这个影响会更积极？ 我现在并不是要你的搭档在冰壁上向你呼喊激励你的话，但是在你攀冰的时候内心总会有一个声音。而且很多攀冰者内心的声音都是负面的，或集中在令人恐惧的方面——这就跟你搭档一直说你很烂一样——不停地掏空你的自信。 而自语是个简单但非常有效的方法。通过自语，攀冰者就可以发掘出内心深处那个声音的正能量，给与自己支持和激励。所以，当你攀冰的时候，你就会下意识地和你内心深处的声音进行对话，就好像—— “太棒了，攀得真好” “好镐。做得好！没问题，再打下一镐，好的，现在再上脚。呼吸，放松。太好了” “记住要保持呼吸——好极了”等等。 这里的关键是，要让你内心深处的声音强调好的技巧或积极的行为，并予以赞许。你可以在内心深处和自己说，也可以像其他攀冰者一样大声地说出来。就看哪个有效了。 Tactical Top Tips I guess many of us just stroll up to the base of our ice climb, have a cursory glance at it and then fire up the climb. By taking some time to 'scope' out the climb we can perhaps learn more about the route and hence decide on a better strategy that will positively weight the chances of our making a successful ascent. So before firing onto the climb take some time to look at the climb, if need be you can use a pair of binoculars to see the detail a bit more clearly. What you are looking for is to decide on the best line and tactic to successfully climb the route. Some key factors to be looking out for: What line looks to have the best ice? Here you are looking for ice that is going to offer good placements for your tools, and take good ice screws. What is good ice? That's an article in it's own right, but simply put you are looking for ice that appears to be more blue in colour. The whiter the ice the more air is in it and the less likely it will be to provide you with bomber ice screw placements. Where can you get a rest(s) to shake out and place some gear? There may well be sections where the ice is so steep (and stopping to place gear will be very tiring) that may be unavoidable – can you power through that safely or are you just climbing further on up into a state of total commitment... By identifying places where you can get a rest you can break the pitch down into sections. This allows you to ensure you get a physical rest whilst on the climb, but mentally you can deal with climb by breaking it down into achievable sections. As the old saying goes – "How do you eat an elephant? A piece at a time..." Hazards? Check out what is above your proposed line. Here things like other climbing teams (My own personal rule is I never, ever, ever follow someone else up and ice climb unless I know I can climb well out of the fall line. Falling debris can and does kill), hanging icicles falling off, avalanche etc should all be assessed for the probability of them occurring before you start climbing. 战术建议 我猜想我们中的很多攀冰者都是晃悠着就到了冰壁的起点，然后随便瞄了一眼路线，就开始干线了。而花一些时间，好好“侦察”一番攀冰路线，可能使我们了解到更多有关路线的信息，选定更好的策略，从而增加成功登顶的可能性。 因此，在你急着上冰壁之前，要多花点时间看看冰壁，如果需要还可以使用望远镜，更清楚地观察冰壁细节。这时，你所要找寻的是成功登顶的最好路线和战术。注意观察以下几点。 哪条路线的冰最好？ 首先你要寻找冰壁上的好点，那里可以打镐，也可以放置冰锥。什么是冰壁上的好点呢？这就要具体情况具体分析了，但是简单点说，你要找冰壁颜色泛蓝的地方。白色的冰壁内可能有更多的空气，这样打入的冰锥就不会那么牢固。 哪里可以休息甩手，哪里可以放冰锥？ 在攀登无可避免的陡峭冰壁时（停下来打冰锥将会非常痛苦），最好进行分段攀登——不然就要看你的体力是否可以支持你安全通过？或者你需要咬牙下定决心继续向上攀登？ 要先观察出休息点的位置，把一段绳距分成多个组成部分。这样可以使你在攀冰的时候得到生理上的休息。而精神上，你也可以将一条攀冰路线分成几个可以完成的小段。正如那句老话——“大象怎么吃？”“一点一点吃...” 是否有潜在危险？ 注意查看你计划的攀冰路线上方是什么。在你开始攀冰之前，要记得评估悬垂冰柱掉落或雪崩的可能性，这些情况其他团队都有遇到过。而我自己的原则是，永远不要跟在别人后面攀冰，除非我确定自己可以避开坠落路线。掉落的碎片都是可以致命的。 Summary Leading steep water ice is a head game. It demands an ability to maintain your cool whilst climbing above protection that might at best be adequate or strenuous and challenging to place, on terrain that is slowly but relentlessly sapping your strength. Given the inherent seriousness of leading ice routes panicking and risking a fall have grave consequences. The key to holding it all together whilst climbing is maintaining a calm and focussed emotional state. Developing a good mental skills toolbox is just as important to a successful and safe ascent as learning how to use the latest and grooviest ice climbing toys. So next time you are cranking it out on the ice focus on each tool placement and make it bomber, concentrate on your breathing and have that inner voice cheer you on. Top Ice Climbing Tips
总结 攀爬陡峭的水冰是一场头脑游戏。在这种漫长且消耗体力的陡峭地形上攀登，需要攀冰者在超过保护点或挑战难度的时候保持冷静。由于先锋攀冰先天的危险性，紧张和冲坠都会造成严重的后果。 因此，在你下次攀冰的时候，专注每一次打镐，尽可能地使打镐稳固，集中注意力在呼吸上，并让你内心深处的声音一直激励你。 首要的攀冰建议 花时间确认打镐是否稳固，要打得刚好，不要过度打镐。攀冰的时候，通过运用深呼吸或自语这种简单的技巧，来合理分配力量，避免过度抓握。 在开始攀冰之前仔细观察线路，制定战术攀冰，比如哪里是难点，哪里可以休息，哪里可以放置冰锥。 |
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