| 本帖最后由 dol528phin 于 2015-5-26 12:40 编辑 喜欢攀岩的，没有不想提高攀爬水平的。但如何才能科学地提高攀爬能力这是个问题，这当然也是个见仁见智的问题。就像减肥这件事儿一样，没有放在所有人身上都好用的方法，但其他人的方法都也许都对你是个借鉴。分析、理解、实践，也许改变就在那里等这你。这篇从Climb.com找到的文章，虽然讲得是训练到达平台期后，突破平台期的技巧，但其中的一些小技巧到是可以给所有的攀岩者一些启发，至少我是这样觉得的。好久没有新译文了，希望这篇译文可以给大家一点启示。 ~~~敬请阅读~~~ Training: Never Plateau Again Break through performance barriers with tips from the pros By Neely Quinn / Illustrations by Skip Sterling 攀岩训练：和平台期说再见 向大咖们学习小技巧，帮你度过攀岩技术障碍 翻译 芽子 Climbing is addictive. One reason is that you can see massive strength gains and technique improvement from day one of your climbing career. But after a few months—or for the extremely lucky, a few years—a plateau can sneak up on you, slow your progress, and frustrate you beyond belief. During my own personal three-year-long plateau, I heard every kind of advice from doing more pull-ups to climbing every day despite the pain to even going vegetarian (not GONNA happen). On a quest to find the one true way, I started to interview top climbers to see how they handled these annoying performance flatlines—both mentally and physically—and the answers I found were as diverse and interesting as the climbers themselves. 攀岩非常上瘾。其中的一个原因就是你可以在你攀岩的日子里看到自己力量的明显增长和技巧的提升。但几个月后，如果幸运，就是是几年之后，平台期便会悄然而来，减慢你的进步，并令你无比地灰心。在我个人长达三年的瓶颈期，我听说了各种各样的建议，包括做更多的引体向上，无视痛楚坚持每天都攀岩，更有建议让我茹素（这永远不会发生）。为了找到正确的方法，我开始去访问那些顶级的攀岩者，看看他们都是如何度过这样糟糕的生理平台期和心理平台期的，而我找到的答案就像攀岩者本身一样，是那么多样、有趣。 Nutrition and Healthy Body Weight Weight has always been a tricky topic for climbers. There was a time when starving yourself seemed the norm, and strong climbers sacrificed much-needed muscle mass to be as light as possible. Today, it’s common knowledge that eating too little is not only counterproductive to becoming a better climber, but it’s also detrimental to your overall health. To figure out if you’re at a healthy weight, or over or underweight, figure out your body mass index (BMI) with bmi-calculator.net. This can give you a good idea of how much fat you can stand to lose—if any. Remember that the BMI system does have its flaws; sometimes the super-fit and muscular folks can score overweight. The ultimate judge of your weight and food intake lies in your climbing performance and how you feel on a daily bASIs. The next step is to figure out how much you should be eating. Trymyfitnesspal.com, a free online diet tracking tool that uses your weight, height, gender, and activity level. Using those estimated calorie needs as a guideline, track your diet on the site to see how much you should eat every day. Just a few days of tracking can give great insight into how much food you’re eating, and how much of it is unnecessary. This will help you strike the fine balance between eating too little to stay light and eating enough to stay strong and energized. So, what to eat? Whole foods like lean meats, vegetables, fruit, and whole grains are crucial to maintaining a healthy weight. One trick from 5.14 climber and trainer Mike Anderson is to eat a ton of low-density foods like vegetables. He eats an enormous salad with veggies, meat, and healthy fats (avocado, olive oil) at least once a day; it provides plenty of nutrients and keeps him full for hours, thanks to the fiber, protein, fat, and bulk it provides. Fat loss can be accelerated by cutting back on carbs. Every climber needs carb energy, but we don’t need as much as what a common American diet delivers (bagel for breakfast, sandwich at lunch, pasta for dinner, etc). This will result in storing less of those unused calories as fat. 营养与健康体重 体重一直以来都是攀岩者关注的话题。曾几何时，节食挨饿是一种典型做法，强壮的攀岩者还宁愿牺牲自己的肌肉量以减轻体重。今天，大家都已经认识到，节食不但不能使你的攀岩水平提高，而且还不利于身体的健康。想知道自己的体重是健康、是超重、还是低于标准体重，你可以在bmi-calculator.net查看自己的BMI指数。这里将会给你一个不错的参考，告诉你，你需要准备减去多少脂肪--如果确实有需要。当然，BMI指数也有它的缺陷，那些非常匀称健硕的人或是肌肉男就可能会被检测出超重。而对你体重和食物摄入的最终评价是你在攀岩时的表现和你的日常感觉。 下一步就是看看你应该摄入多少了。点击myfitnesspal.com, 这里是根据你体重、身高、性别和运动水平，测试检测你饮食的免费在线网站。以这些估算的基础热量需要作指导，在线跟踪饮食情况，看看自己每天应该吃多少。检测几天你就会知道自己吃了多少东西，又有多少东西是不需要的吃的。这将帮助你在节食减重与吃饱保持能量之间找到平衡。 那么，应该吃些什么呢？像瘦肉、蔬菜、水果和全麦这样的全食品在保持健康体重方面起到了至关重要的作用。Mike Anderson是具有5.14攀岩能力的攀岩者和教练，他的一个诀窍就是吃大量的低密度食品，比如蔬菜。他每天会至少吃一次大量的蔬菜、肉和健康脂肪（牛油果，橄榄油）调制的沙拉；这样可以提供大量的营养，并长久保持饱腹感，而且还能提供大量的纤维素、蛋白质和脂肪。加速减脂可以通过减少摄入碳水化合物来实现。攀岩者都需要碳水化合物来提供能量，但却并不需要一个正常美国人所摄入的那么多（早餐吃百吉饼，午餐吃三明治，晚餐吃意大利面，诸如此类）。这样将会导致将这些未用尽的热量储存为脂肪。 Strength Training Most climbers hate to spend training time off of the wall, but adding one or two specific exercises, including hangboard workouts, after your climbing session can produce major results. If you’re short, wide-grip lat pull-downs at maximum weight can give you extra reach and improve lockoff strength.Find a lat pull-down machine (most gyms have them), and widen your grip as far as possible—wider than your shoulders. Experiment with weight until you’re failing on your third rep. Then do three to five sets of two reps (failing on your third) at that weight with five minutes of rest between sets. Do these after a climbing session or on an off-climbing day; don’t do them before your session because you’ll be tired on the wall and won’t maximize your climbing time. Start with three times a week, moving up in weight as you get stronger. You can do more sessions in a week, but if you find yourself too tired to climb hard during your session, scale back to three. Trainer and author Steve Bechtel is a huge proponent of weightlifting, hangboarding, and campusing as specific training for rock climbing. He says, “I am becoming more and more convinced that if you simply develop a base strength, everything else falls into place.” Thinking about incorporating running into your training? Think again. Bechtel thinks it’s a waste of time for climbers. Instead, focus on the obvious: climbing, hangboarding, campusing, weighted pull-ups—and the not-so-obvious: squats and walking lunges. Try lunges or squats twice a week to strengthen your legs and core. These will improve your overall performance, but they’ll especially give you more strength and power for dynos where the initial push comes from your lower half. Multiple professional climbers have touted the hangboard as their CATalyst for bumping up grades. As you move up in grades, holds get smaller, slopier, and generally crappier, and finger-strength training will make these holds feel easier to use and hang from. Think of it this way: If you can reach a hold to touch it, you will be able to grab it, and if you can grab it, you can hold on. See Digit Dialing for some workout ideas. 力量训练 大多数的攀岩者不喜欢在岩壁之外投入训练时间，但是在攀岩之后增加1-2项专项训练，如指力板练习将会产生意想不到的效果。如果你比较矮，那就可以进行最大配重的坐姿宽握下拉训练，这样可以增加你的触碰距离，增强锁定力量。找一台坐姿下拉器（大多数健身房都有），然后尽可能地宽握抓杆-要比肩宽。逐步尝试下拉的配重，直到你连拉三下都有困难。然后以这个配重做下拉练习，两个一组（因为第三个是拉不起来的），做三到五组，每组中间休息5分钟。在攀岩后，或不攀岩的日子做这个练习；不要在攀岩之前做，否则你会在岩壁上会感到疲劳，因此就减低了你最大化的攀岩时间。开始的时候，每周三次，随着能力变强，增加配重。你也可以每周做更多次练习，但如果一旦发现自己在攀岩练习中因为太疲劳而出现攀爬困难的时候，就要把训练量调减回每周三次。 steve bechtel 是一名攀岩教练，也是一名作家。同时，他也是举重训练、指力板训练和指力条训练的坚决拥护者。他说，“我越来越确信，如果你简单地进行一些基础力量训练，你的能力就能越来越进步。”你是否有考虑过，要在你的训练中结合跑步训练吗？再想想吧。Bechtel觉得，对攀岩者来说，跑步是一种时间上的浪费。取而代之，应该专注于能明显增加技能和次明显增加技能的训练。能明显增加技能的训练包括：攀岩训练、指力板训练、指力条训练、负重引体训练；次明显增加技能的训练包括：深蹲训练和弓步压腿等。 尝试每周做两次弓步压腿和深蹲训练，以增强腿部力量和核心力量。这样做，还可以提升你的整体技术，尤其是当你在做动态动作那样由下半身发力的动作时，这样的练习会给你更多的力量。很多职业攀岩者都将指力板训练推荐为提高攀爬等级的绝招。随着攀爬等级的提高，手点都会越来越小，坡度也会变大，而且越来越差，那么指力训练就会使这些手点感觉起来更容易，更好抓。这么想吧：如果你能碰到一个手点，你就能摸到它，然后就可以抓住它，如果你能抓住它，你但你抓住它，就可以抓得稳了。更多训练方法，参见Digit Dialing。 Weaknesses It’s easy to have fun by focusing on what you’re good at; it’s much more difficult to face the fact that you’re not good at certain things, and then go out and turn them into strengths. Below are some common issues I found among the pros when it came to weaknesses. >>Bad Footholds. Seek out the worst possible footholds in the gym and practice using them in a variety of ways, moving in all directions. Do the same outside and find problems that are known for glassy, microscopic, terrible feet. >>Small Hands, Big Holds. Women tend to be good at crimping the tiniest nubs, but when it comes to large slopers and pinches, the ladies more often struggle. The only way to become proficient with these sizeable holds is by using them. Shannon Forsman is a short but very strong V12 boulderer and climbing coach. She encourages women to at least try difficult climbs that aren’t just crimps: “All I’m asking is for you to try something out of your comfort zone, whether it involves slopers, pinches, or even—gasp—a jump move. Just try! It might be difficult and embarrassing to project a couple of V-grades lower than you’re used to, but over time you’ll come out a much stronger climber.” She says finger strength isn’t the only factor for open-handed holds; sUCCess can depend on how well you use the rest of your body. “Slopers require patience, balance, core tension, and very subtle movement; every limb must be engaged. You don’t just grab slopers, you use the rest of your body to position yourself in a way that makes them useable. A general rule of thumb is to stay as far below slopers as possible so that you are pulling down rather than out.” >>Power. No matter how many laps you can run on techy moderates, you will inevitably plateau at a more difficult grade if you don’t have power. Try circuits on hard boulder problems instead of just climbing around randomly. The campus board and systems board are also especially useful. Consider adding a few sets of simple box jumps (repeatedly jump on an 18” to 24” sturdy box) after climbing sessions. It will give you the explosive leg power and muscle memory you need for big moves. 短板 专注于自己擅长的方面会让你感到兴致盎然；而面对自己某方面的弱点时，就没那么容易啦，而且还要将它们转化为优势。以下是一些我在专业选手中发现的常见短板问题。 >>烂脚法。找出岩馆里最不好踩的脚点，然后用尽所有的方法进行练习，向各种方向移动。在野外也这样做，找那些出了名的脚点滑、脚点小、脚点很糟糕的路线练习。 >>小手，大点。女性很擅长在小手点上做指压动作，但当手点变成了大坡或需要用手掐的点时，往往就歇菜了。而唯一能驾驭这些大手点的方法就是对他们加以利用。Shannon Forsman是一位个子不高但非常强健的抱石者，抱石能力在V12，她同时也是一位攀岩教练。她会鼓励女性们去尝试爬一些不单单有指压动作的较难线路：“我就是想要她们去尝试一些不在她们舒适范围的线路，不管是要拍大坡还是要掐，甚至是要腾跃。你只需要试试！去爬比你自己抱石能力高几个级别的线路可能很难，也可能很丢人，但时间长了你就会变得更棒。”她还说，对于开放式的手点来说，指力并不是唯一的因素；拍坡还要求攀岩者的耐心、平衡、躯干紧张感，还有很微妙的动作；所有的肢体都必须参与进来。你并不是只在抓一个坡，你是在用身体的其他其部分使你自己保持在一个姿势。拍坡的通用经验就是，尽量靠下尽量下沉，这样你就是向下拉而不是向外拉了。 >>力量。不论你能在较为容易的线路上刷几遍，但如果没有力量，你就永远都不可避免地会在另一个较难的攀岩等级上遭遇平台期。这时候要试着不停地在一条较难的抱石线路上死磕，不要四处去随机选择攀爬路线。指力板和指力条训练都尤其有帮助。可以考虑在攀岩结束后增加几组简单的跳箱子训练（在18”到24”高的箱子上反复作这个动作）。这样有助于增加腿部的爆发力和肌肉记忆，在做大动作的时候这些都会用得上。 Failure and Redpointing When climbing at a world-class level, professionals are constantly faced with failure. Each pro climber has had to develop his or her own positive attitude, along with mental coping mechanisms. Studies that focus on the psychological aspect of sports show that the best athletes are those who can successfully “lie” to themselves, meaning they can internally say, “Yeah, I can do that. Doesn’t matter that I sucked just now—I can totally do this. No problem.”Even if something is beyond your current ability or strength level, it’s best to approach it with blind optimism and confidence (within reason, of course). Carlo Traversi has a refreshingly positive and simple outlook, saying, “There are so many failures in climbing. I try not to dwell on them. I climb because it’s fun.” All of these pros have spent months—sometimes years—on particular projects. This means returning to the same crag over and over with an upbeat attitude and a desire to go back for more. With any luck on a project, you’ll be falling off higher and higher up, but if you aren’t, the Anderson brothers (authors of The Rock Climber’s Training Manual) say you should get back in the gym and do a strength- and power-focused training cycle to get stronger. They say sometimes it’s best to step away from the rock, even if it means not getting the send that season. Whitney Boland, a 5.14 climber, says she gets anxious or scared before certain moves, especially big, dynamic ones since she’s short (5’ ½”). She recommends just going for it as a way to push through. She says, “When you get to a move like that, decide you want to stick it and go for it. More often than not, you’ll surprise yourself. Even if you don’t hit the move and take a fall, you can feel proud of the fact that you really went for it, and then you can work on adjusting for the next attempt.” 失败与红点 攀岩已经到达了世界水平的时候，专业选手经常会面对失败。每名专业攀岩者都必须发挥自己的积极态度，这也包括精神上的克服机制。一些运动心理学方面的研究都表示，那些最棒的运动员都是能够对自己“撒谎”的运动员，意思就是他们会在心里跟自己说“没错，我能做到。不管我刚才表现得有多菜--我绝对能够做到。没问题的。”尽管有些线路可能目前超出了你的攀爬能力和力量水平，但也最好可以盲目乐观、充满信心地去尝试。Carlo Traversi有着令人振奋的积极心态和简单的意愿，她说：“在攀爬中会有很多失败。我尝试不去纠结于那些失败。我攀岩就是因为它充满趣。” 这些专业选手都曾经花费几个月，甚至是几年的时间去死磕同一条线路。这就意味着，他们将反反复复地前往同一个岩场，而且每次去都心怀乐观的态度，而且还愈加希望回到那里。如果运气好，可能就会在线路上更上一层楼，而如果运气不好，按Anderson兄弟（攀岩者训练手册的作者）说的，就应该回到岩馆，专注于力量训练，而使自己变得更强。他们说，有时候最好不碰野外的岩壁，尽管这可能意味着你不能在那个岩季完成线路。 Whitney Boland是一名5.14的岩者，她说因为她个子比较矮，所以在做某些动作前会感到不安和害怕，尤其是动作幅度大，需要动态的动作。她建议要为了完成线路努力一博。她说，“当你这样做动作的时候，就要下定决心并坚决搞定它。很多时候，你都会为此感到惊讶。哪怕尽管你没有完成动作而发生了冲坠，但你也会为此而感到骄傲，因为你真的努力了，然后你就可以再为下次尝试做一些调整。” Breathing The simple act of concentrated and thoughtful breathing can make everything feel easier. When you reach a difficult section on a climb, your breathing becomes shallow and rapid, which will decrease your body’s overall efficiency and can even make it hard to think straight. Start taking slow, even, and deep breaths before you leave the ground, and continue to force these breaths as you climb. Make them loud if it helps you concentrate on it. Practice will help you find the balance between breathing too rapidly and too slowly. Smooth, calm breathing is a simple solution for better performance. 呼吸 仅仅通过集中注意力和深呼吸就可以使所有的事情感觉更容易。当你在攀岩过程中遇到难点时，呼吸通常就会变得浅而急，这样就会减少你身体的整体有效性，甚至脑袋都会因此而不好使了。学习在开始攀登前就慢慢地、深呼吸，并在岩壁上攀爬时也一直保持这样的呼吸。如果呼吸声可以帮助你集中注意力，那就大声喘出来。多加练习，这样会帮助你在急速呼吸和缓慢呼吸之间找到平衡点。顺畅、冷静地呼吸是提高攀岩技术的一种简单方法。  |
宝儿嘟嘟
好文章，顶~~
2016-2-19 08:16
d'NordWand
好东西，新人还用不上这个高端的。哈哈哈
2015-8-7 13:34
cs7962933
偶尔能看到芽子在群里讲话，她每次的分享都会读一下，非常的棒，希望你可以继续为大家分享更多更好的内容。
2015-5-26 13:16
vivi0898
多谢芽子的翻译，以后要多向你学习和沟通翻译上的问题，但是有一个小问题，我记得好像problem在攀岩里面是指抱石线路，我们经常用what is your problem？来询问一个岩友他现在正在爬的线路时哪条？
2015-5-26 11:58
sabada
芽子神，你的资料我都收藏了，但还没有来得及消化。我觉得你做的每一点滴都将会给他人带来巨大的益处。
2015-5-25 14:16
dol528phin 发表于 2015-5-25 13:34 多谢芽子的翻译，以后要多向你学习和沟通翻译上的问题，但是有一个小问题，我记得好像problem在攀岩里面是指抱石线路，我们经常用what is your problem？来询问一个岩友他现在正在爬的线路时哪条？ |
dol528phin
刚刚做了修改，谢谢指正。如果发现随时告诉我吧，我也怕误人子弟了:）
2015-5-26 12:37
国外号码请输入国家代码，收不到验证码，联系管理员微信:zhb7171608
