easyrider

2003 Golden Piton Awards - Lifetime Achievement Fred Beckey

While a list of revered, veteran North American climbers is long, the roll of those who’ve reached true iconic status is short. Near the top of that brief list is Fred Beckey. His unsurpassed first-ascent record, extensive contributions to the history and literature of the sport, and his zealous, lifelong sacrifice of economic comfort in pursuit of maximum climbing time leaves him without peer.

Arguably one of the most prolific first ascentionists in climbing history, Beckey has a tick list of FA’s that range from obscure one-pitch rock routes, to desert towers, to the most storied Alaskan summits. Allen Steck and Steve Roper’s timeless 50 Classic Climbs of North America, still the bible of exemplary routes, lists eight Beckey climbs, from the West Ridge of Alaska’s Mount Hunter, to the North Face of Alberta’s Mount Edith Cavell, to the South Face of California’s Charlotte Dome.

A list of Beckey’s partners reads like a Who’s Who of climbing for the past several decades: Fritz Wiessner, Ed Cooper, Galen Rowell, Eric Bjornstad, Pat Callis, Yvon Chouinard, and John Middendorf have all shared a rope with him, to name just a few. Add to that hundreds, if not thousands, of relatively anonymous climbers who’ve joined him for brief spans in his relentless pursuit of the vertical. Many of these climbers, exhausted at trip’s end and preparing to return to “regular” life, snap a farewell photo of Beckey; most of these images show him ensconced in a phone booth, lining up a partner for his next adventure.

Beckey’s passion for the mountain environment has made him expert in geography, geology, and a host of other naturalist subjects. That expertise, combined with Beckey’s love of history and the written word, has resulted in a writing career that spans seven decades. Aside from his voluminous contributions to the American and Canadian Alpine Journals, he has found time between climbing binges to author several classic books, including Challenge of the North Cascades; the three-volume Cascade Alpine Guide (a.k.a. the “Beckey Bible”); Mount McKinley: Icy Crown of North America; and Mountains of North America.

Beckey also stands out as a staunch individualist. While his iconoclastic style has earned him many partners and friends, it also has ruffled the feathers of the climbing “establishment,” who, on more than one occasion, dismissed him as too individualistic and too unsafe for large expedition efforts. Despite having been to 25,000 feet on Lhotse in 1956, Beckey was denied a spot on the 1963 American Everest expedition, though his résumé far outstripped that of any member of the expedition. He responded by making a slew of first ascents that year in the Cascades, Sierra, Wind Rivers, and Canadian Rockies.

But Beckey’s crowning achievement is his enduring climbing-bum lifestyle. From an early age he has put climbing first and foremost in his life, making ends meet as need be, purely for funding his next excursion. His thrift tactics are legend — partners tell of sample-scamming in supermarkets and endless cycles through the free-coffee-refill line. Now entering his ninth decade, he still puts climbing at the fore, cobbling together a combination of book royalties, slide show revenues, and contract research work. While most his age are doddering about in retirement homes or just plain dead, Beckey is out there, the climbing-bum Bodhisattva, living the pure, zealous climbing life of which we can only dream.





2003年金岩钉奖——终身成就奖 Fred Beckey
（easyrider译自Climbing第230期）

在北美，经验丰富、受人尊敬的攀登者为数不少，然而其中真正拥有偶像地位的人却寥寥无几。Fred Beckey正是这少数人中的顶尖高手。他所保持的首登记录至今未被超越，他对攀登历史和文献做出了大量的贡献，他为了有更多时间攀登而终生放弃了舒适的生活——这些让其他众多的攀登者难以望其项背。

作为攀登史上可能拥有最多首登线路的攀登者之一，Beckey的首登记录包括了那些偏僻的单绳距岩石线路，沙漠石塔，还有阿拉斯加那些最著名的山峰。Allen Steck和Steve Roper关于经典线路的权威著作——《北美50条经典攀登路线》中收录了8条Beckey路线：阿拉斯加Hunter峰西山脊路线，阿尔伯特Edith Cavell峰北壁，加利福尼亚Charlotte山南壁等。

在过去几十年中，Beckey的搭档都是攀登界的传奇人物：Fritz Wiessner, Ed Cooper, Galen Rowell, Eric Bjornstad, Pat Callis, Yvon Chouinard, 和John Middendorf都和他结组攀登过，而他们只是其中一小部分。在持续多年的攀登生涯中，和他短期搭档的、不太著名的攀登者数以百计，甚至上千。每一次攀登结束时，那些搭档都精疲力尽、迫不及待想回到“正常的”生活。这时他们往往都会看到Fred躲在电话亭里的身影，他正在和另外的同伴商量下一次探险。这就是Beckey式的告别造型。

Beckey对于山峰及其环境的热爱使他成为地理学、地质学以及其他许多自然领域的专家。拥有这样的专业知识，加上对历史和写作的热爱，他坚持了近七十年的写作。除了给美国和加拿大的登山杂志大量的投稿，他在疯狂攀登的间隙还创作了几部经典著作，包括《North Cascades的挑战》（译者注：North Cascades山脉，位于加拿大British Columbia省及美国Washington州），总共三册的《Cascade登山指南》（亦即“Beckey圣经”），《麦金利山：北美的冰雪皇冠》，还有《北美山峰》。

Beckey出众之处还在于他是一个坚定的个人主义者。他蔑视权威的作风使他赢得了很多同伴和朋友，同时也触怒了那些“权威人士”。他们多次在大型远征中以个人主义、不安定因素等理由将他开除出队伍。尽管在1956年Beckey就攀登到了洛子峰的7500米处，他的经历和经验远比队中其他人要丰富，他仍然被拒绝加入1963年美国的珠峰探险队。对此，Beckey做出了回应：同年在Cascades，Sierra（译者注：内华达山脉），Wind Rivers（译者注：位于Wyoming州）以及加拿大落基山脉的一连串首登。

事实上，Beckey的最高成就是他多年来流浪攀登者的生活方式。从早年开始，他就把攀登作为生活的绝对重点。在经济上，除了为下一次出行筹集资金，其他的只要能维持就行。他的省钱招数也是花样百出，根据他的同伴所说，除了在超市的小把戏之类，还有喝咖啡时不停要求免费续杯等等。如今年逾八旬的他依然把攀登放在第一位，以著作版税、放映幻灯片、合同研究工作的收入简单维持生计。当同龄人在养老院步履蹒跚或者已然过世，Beckey依然在那里——这个流浪攀登者中的圣人，依然过着纯粹而狂热、让人可望而不可及的攀登生活。

easyrider

GYACHUNG KANG
North Face, Slovenian Route, Second Ascent


Taeko and Yasushi Yamanoi (Japan) attempted Gyachung Kang (7985m) via the Slovenian Route (M4 55? 2000m, Car-Jakofcic-Jost-Meznar-Prezelj-tremfelj, 1999) in October. They arrived at base camp on September 16 and spent twenty days acclimating up to 6900 meters before proceeding to an advanced camp at the foot of the north face. On October 5 they left base camp; their cook, Gyaltsen, remained to look after camp during their climb. They began their ascent from 5900 meters on October 6 at 5 a.m., climbing unroped over mixed terrain (50?60?. The upper part of the face featured overhanging rock and ice; fearing avalanches, they traversed beneath it, reaching 7000 meters, where they painstakingly chopped a ledge for their tent. On October 7 they continued, again unroped, climbing straight up before traversing right to a wide, thirty-degree plateau at 7500 meters, where they bivouacked. During this bivy, Yasushi noticed several toes on his right foot had turned purple.


Snow and near-whiteout conditions greeted the climbers the next day as they began. Taeko, feeling dizzy, decided to go back to the tent and wait for Yasushi. Yasushi continued over seventy-degree mixed terrain, reaching the summit at 1:30 p.m., six hours after beginning. He stayed on top only a minute before beginning his descent. A sense of listlessness greeted his return to the plateau. He was forced to stop every three or four steps and was reduced to crawling by the time he reached the tent at 3 p.m.


The storm continued, and they descended the next morning in ten-meter visibility. Taeko led; Yasushi experienced difficulties frontpointing due to the frostbite on his feet. They used the rope twice on the difficult traverse (anchors were problematic) before reaching 7200 meters, where they chopped a ten-centimeter ledge. Sitting on this, they pulled the tent over their heads for shelter. They were hit three times during the night by avalanches.


On October 10 they used the rope from the beginning. Yasushi went first. "Taeko was still vigorous, but I was exhausted," Yasushi remembers. "Still, we needed to establish piton anchors, and I抦 better at that than Taeko." The storm continued, and anchors were difficult to find. On the seventh rappel Taeko was hit by an avalanche as she approached Yasushi at the anchors. She flew over him, coming to a stop upside down in midair, out of sight below. Righting herself, she noticed the rope, which had run over a sharp rock, was about to break. She cried out to Yasushi not to pull the rope, secured herself to the slope with her axe and crampons and untied. She had hit her head against a rock during the fall and lost much blood, as well as her right glove; her vision in her left eye was also affected.


Yasushi pulled up the rope, understood the situation, descended to confirm Taeko抯 well-being, then reascended to retrieve the line. Another avalanche hit him, ripping off his goggles and affecting his vision as well. When he finally rejoined Taeko four hours later, he was exhausted and could no longer see. Taeko placed three screws and made an anchor for their bivy. When she went to light the stove, she dropped the lighter. They collected ice and swallowed it through the night.


Yasushi抯 vision had improved by morning, and they continued their descent with the rope, which had been reduced to thirty-five meters by Taeko抯 fall. When they reached the lower-angled slopes at the base of the face, they became separated. Thinking he might be better able to find Taeko from a distance, Yasushi continued down. Near the base of the face he noticed Gyaltsen, who looked up at him and said, "Tea, tea." Upon reaching the glacier proper, Yasushi looked back to see Taeko with some people. He noticed strangers nearby. "What are you doing here?" he asked them. "We are training," they replied.
Two hours later Taeko rejoined him on the glacier. She had felt the presence of others the entire time of her descent, and when the two discussed it, they realized they had been hallucinating. They reached their advanced base before dark, made tea and slept well in sleeping bags.


At noon October 12, they rose. Taeko抯 vision had improved, while Yasushi was still experiencing difficulties in his right eye. They began the hike to base camp at 1 p.m. Taeko had not eaten for six days and was exhausted. Yasushi continued ahead through thirty centimeters of snow while Taeko followed slowly behind. At 2 a.m. they gave up their efforts to regain base camp and endured an open bivy. The next morning Yasushi took a photo of Taeko, then hurried for camp alone. Only the dining tent remained. He shouted for Gyaltsen, who appeared and burst into tears. Their support team had assumed they had disappeared.


They began their return to Kathmandu immediately and were flown to a hospital in Tokyo on October 18. At the time of this writing, Yasushi has lost five fingers to frostbite, as well as all the toes on his right foot. Taeko, who lost eighteen digits and her nose to frostbite on Makalu in 1991, had the remaining joints of her fingers amputated. Operations to treat their frostbite continue.



GYACHUNG KANG 北壁 斯洛文尼亚路线 第二支登顶队伍

（easyrider译自《Alpinist》杂志）


山野井妙子和山野井泰史在十月份尝试了Gyachung Kang峰(7985m)的斯洛文尼亚路线（M4 55゜ 2000m, Car-Jakofcic-Jost-Meznar-Prezelj-tremfelj, 1999年首登）。他们于9月16日到达大本营。在北壁脚下建立前进营地之前，他们花了二十天在BC到6900m之间作高原适应训练。10月5日，他们离开了大本营，他们的厨子Gyaltsen留守。10月6日凌晨5点，他们从5900m处开始上升，无绳索攀登一段混合地形（50゜~60゜）。这一段的上部是仰角的冰岩混合地形，为了避开雪崩，他们从下面横切过去，到达7000m高度。在这里，他们费了很大劲才挖出了搭帐篷的平台。第二天，他们继续无保护攀登直上，然后向右方横切到一块宽阔的30度的平地，海拔7500m。他们在这里露营，这时山野井泰史发现右脚的几个脚趾已经变紫。

第二天当他们开始攀登的时候，大雪使周围一片白色，几乎让人失明。妙子感到头晕，决定回到帐篷等待泰史。泰史随后攀登了70多度的混合地段，于下午1点30分登顶。这时距出发已经6小时，他在峰顶只停留了一分钟就开始下撤。回到露营的平地时，倦怠的感觉让他在随后的下撤中不得不三四步一停。下午3点，他几乎爬着回到帐篷。

暴风雪还在继续，他们第二天早上下撤的时候能见度只有10米。妙子领攀，泰史因为脚上的冻伤，脚尖很难踩稳。他们在较难的横移处两次使用了绳子（保护点还有问题）。到达7200m后，他们挖了个10厘米宽的小平台。他们把帐篷搭在头顶坐着撑过一夜，其间被雪崩击中了三次。

10月10日，他们从一开始就使用绳子。泰史在前面：“妙子状态依旧很好，但我已经精疲力尽了，”他回忆道，“我们依然需要用岩钉做好保护点，这个我要熟练些。”　暴风雪还在继续，保护点也很难找。在第七个下降的绳距时，妙子在接近保护点的泰史时被雪崩击中了。她从他头顶飞过，在视野之外的半空中倒悬着停住了。恢复平稳后，她发现绳子在一块锋利的岩石上的部分快要断掉了。她叫喊着让泰史不要拉绳子，并用冰镐和冰抓把自己固定在坡上然后解开绳子。在滑坠中她的头撞到了岩石上，流了很多血，右手的手套也丢失了；左眼的视力也受了影响。

泰史拉起绳子，意识到情况的严重，降下去确定了妙子的状况，又上升收绳子。这时又一次雪崩击中了他，打掉了他的雪镜，也影响了他的视力。当两人最终到一起的时候已经是四小时以后了，他精疲力尽而且完全失明。妙子打了三个冰锥，做好了露营的保护点。当她点炉子的时候又把打火机弄掉了。两个人只好找了些冰，整晚填进肚子。

早上泰史的视力恢复了一些，他们继续用仅剩的35米绳子下降。到达北壁脚下坡度较小的地方时，他们已经走散了。考虑到从远处更容易发现妙子，泰史继续下撤。在北壁脚下时，他看到Gyaltsen抬起头来对他说：“茶，茶。” 到达冰川上时，他回头看到妙子和一些人在一起。他也注意到了旁边的一些陌生人。“你们在这儿做什么？”他问道。“我们在训练”那些人说。两小时后，妙子在冰川上赶上了他。她在下撤途中一直觉得身边有其他人。两人讨论了一下，意识到这些都是幻觉。他们在天黑前回到了前进营地，喝了些茶，钻进睡袋里好好睡了一觉。

10月12日中午，他们起来了。妙子的视力好多了，而泰史的右眼还是不怎么看得见。1点，他们开始步行回大本营。妙子六天没吃东西，已经力竭。泰史在前面踩着30厘米厚的雪，妙子在后面缓慢的跟着。凌晨两点，他们放弃回到大本营的想法，再次露营。第二天早上，泰史给妙子拍了张照片，独自赶回BC。结果只看到了炊事帐，他大声呼叫着，Gyaltsen冲了出来，喜极而泣。他们的后援队早以为他们失踪了。

两人立即被送回加德满都，然后在10月18日回到了东京的一家医院。截至发稿时，泰史因冻伤而失去了5个手指和右脚的所有指头。妙子1991年在马卡鲁失去了18个手指及脚趾和她的鼻子，这次手指的剩余关节也被切除。现在手术还在继续。





相關背景：


格仲康峰（Gyachung Kang），海拔7,952m ，位于喜马拉亚山区的孔布地区，卓奥友和珠峰之间，是世界第十五高的独立主峰。该峰于1964年6月10 日被Y. Kato, K. Sakaizawa和Pasang Phutar首登。次日，K. Machida 和K. Yasuhisa登顶。1999年，斯洛文尼亚队首登北壁。2002年，山野井泰史亦完成该线路。




山野井泰史
Yasushi Yamanoi
日本近代登山代表人物山野井泰史，1965年出生於東京，10歲左右即開始爬山，11歲受到電影「勃朗峰輓歌」的感動，15歲加入日本攀登俱樂部，高中畢業後，即往美國優聖美地國家公園的許多自由攀登路線從事攀岩。此後，一直在獨攀或無氧氣供給下持續挑戰諸多困難攀登，成為世界級的登山家。

1988年攀登北極圈Baffin島Thor峰西壁，1990年南美Patagonia Fitz Roy大岩壁獨攀成功。1991年開始向喜馬拉雅群峰挑戰。1994年卓奧友峰（8201m）南西壁單獨首登。2000年世界第二高峰K2（8611m）南南東稜以僅48小時時間單獨首登。2002年挑戰格仲康峰（Gyachung Kang, 7952m）北壁登頂後，遭遇惡劣天氣而奇蹟式生還。

生存者004

猴子，继续努力啊！

easyrider

ExWeb interview: Vince Anderson



•ExWeb: Nanga Parbat was your first high-altitude climb in Pakistan. How was it different from climbing in Alaska, Alps and Andes?

Vince: "Nanga Parbat felt much warmer for the altitude than any other place I have been. It was much warmer for me than climbing in Tibet on Shishapangma. It was WAY warmer than climbing Denali in Alaska. It was certainly much bigger in relief than any other place I have been with the possible exception of Mount St. Elias in Alaska."



•Which was the greatest climb of your life? And the worst? Why?

"Climbing the Rupal Face was the greatest climb of my life. I don't think that it needs much explanation. I think that climbing in Indian Creek last weekend among the hordes of people that the new guide book seems to have attracted there may rank with one of my worst climbing experience. It used to be much more secluded and less frequented. As with many areas it was too good for its own good and now it is discovered."



•How did you end up being Steve's mate on Nanga Parbat?

"Steve is a friend of mine and he was out visiting me last winter for some ice climbing. I asked him what adventure awaited him the next summer and he said that he wanted to try NP again. He then asked if I was interested."



•What did you think when he suggested the climb?

"I was thrilled, honored and chomping at the bit."



•Have you climbed much with Steve before?

"I have not climbed with Steve much. We had tried to get out and do some alpine routes in Canada a few times, but were shut down by weather every time. We have been out rock climbing and ice climbing together a little bit. We took our Rock Guides' exam together in 1998."



•In your 'rules of the game', you mention honesty and politeness. Let's take an example: Messner and Kukuczka. If you had to choose one, who would be your favorite?

"I am not sure how that question relates to honesty and politeness. To be honest, I am not sure that I have a favorite. I have tremendous respect for each of them (I think that was putting it politely.)"



•About honesty: 'ure' climbers and alpine magazines often keep tight-lipped when it comes to speaking up about wrongdoings in the mountains (theft, not helping climbers in need, crime). We have seen situations where climbers have been left to die and other climbers have refused to talk about it to relatives and investigative media - whilst debates have raged about whether a piece of rope has been removed or not on a mountain.

You state that "When I get up in the morning I don't want to be ashamed of who is looking back at me from the mirror." What does that mean to you, exactly?

"Wrongdoings in the mountains are no different than wrongdoings elsewhere in my opinion. It is important to behave like a moral human being regardless of your location. The statement you are quoting refers to my interest in being honest with myself and others and to live my life in a way that I can be proud of. I don't want to compromise my integrity for profit, promotion or anything else. Integrity and virtue are very important to me, hence my interest in style and aesthetics with regard to climbing."



•There's a "war" between alpine style climbers and siege climbers. Alpine style mountaineers are often British, American and French Alpinists choosing fast climbs on lower peaks - the siege climbers are often East Europeans and Asians spending a long time using brutal methods on high altitude. The approaches mirror the two different cultures and lifestyles of East/West. "Style is ultimately a personal choice" you write. So do you think they should be compared at all?

"You may have me there. Style is ultimately a personal choice; however there are still some things that are universal, virtue being one. I think that climbing, like everyday life, should be conducted as a virtuous activity. In that, I find it important to have a sense of aesthetics about and respect for style. One extreme would be going up on a climb with no regard for safety and basically being suicidal about it."

"The other would be taking every possible measure to eliminate all the unknowns, risk and maximize the chances of achieving the goal. Somewhere in between the two extremes is a balance point that we should aim for. It is a personal choice where that is, but always opens to debate."

"For me, siege climbing tries to eliminate too many variables and makes the experience more about summitting than anything else. It takes the fun out of it and robs the experience of its depth and virtue. I think that ultimately, most of the high altitude big wall stuff that seems to be the objective of siege climbers will be climbed in alpine style by future, better prepared climbers. As far as a difference between east and west goes: I am not sure that I buy that. There is plenty of crappy ethics among climbers here in America and there are a lot of climbs being done in impeccable style by many eastern Europeans. I don't really see a trend."



•After climbing the Rupal face - are you going back for more on higher mountains, or you rather return to rock and ice routes in Alps and America? In other words, what do you want to do next? And what would be your dream climb?

"I am hungry for more. I will still climb in Alaska. It is my favorite place and the mountains are big, just not high. I have no specific plans at the moment but would like to return to the high mountains of Asia soon. As for a dream climb, I would love to climb Mount St. Elias in some similar fashion to that of the Duke of Abruzzi in 1897, though perhaps by a different route."






Vince Anderson 访谈
（easyrider节译自ExWeb）

•南迦帕巴是你在巴基斯坦攀登的第一座高海拔山峰。和在阿拉斯加、阿尔卑斯和安第斯的攀登有什么不同呢？

“南迦帕巴比我到过的其他相同海拔的地方暖和多了。比我在西藏攀登希夏邦马暖和，甚至比麦金利都暖和得多。这显然比在其他我去过地方让人舒心的多（可能除去阿拉斯加的圣伊莱亚斯山吧）。”



•你最棒的攀登经历是哪一次？最糟的呢？为什么？

“Rupal壁肯定是最棒的一次，我想这不用解释。上个周末在印第安溪（位于Utah州），和一群被导游指南吸引来的人一起攀登可能是我最糟的经历之一吧。那儿以前比较隐蔽，去的人也很少。和其他很多地方一样，那里太棒了，以至于现在被人们发现后，情况已不容乐观。”



•你是怎么成为Steve在南迦帕巴的搭档的呢？

“Steve是我的一个朋友。去年冬天他来找我攀冰，我问他明年夏天有什么计划，他告诉我还想再去南迦帕巴。然后他问我是否有兴趣。”



•他提到这次攀登时你怎么想？

“我激动坏了，感到荣幸，还有些牙痒痒的。”



•你以前和Steve一起攀登的多吗？

“不太多。我们在加拿大一起尝试过几次阿尔卑斯线路，不过每次都遇到坏天气。我们偶尔一起攀岩和攀冰。1998年的时候，我们一起参加了攀岩向导考试。”



•你在“游戏法则”里提到诚实和礼貌。举个例：梅斯纳尔和库库其卡。如果你必须选择一个，你最喜欢谁？

“我不太确定这个问题与诚实和礼貌有什么关系。老实说，我也不确定我是否有最喜欢的。我对他们都相~~~当的尊敬（我想这样回答够礼貌吧）。”



•关于诚实：“纯粹”的攀登者和登山杂志经常谈到山上的坏事（偷窃、不帮助其他受困的登山者、犯罪）时三缄其口。我们都见过一些登山者被抛弃等死，而其他的登山者面对亲戚和前来调查的媒体时只字不提。同时关于某座山上的一根绳子是否被取掉了的争吵不绝于耳。

你提到：当我早晨醒来的时候，我不想为从镜中看着我的那个人而感到耻辱。这到底是什么意思呢？

“我觉得山上的坏事和其他地方的坏事没有两样。无论你在哪里，做一个道德的人很重要。你引述的那段话是关于我对自己和他人保持诚实并以我自豪的方式生活。我不想为了利润、宣传或其他什么而在道德上妥协。正直和善良对我来说重要，进而我攀登的风格和美学亦是如此。”



•阿尔卑斯式攀登者和围攻式攀登者之间总有一场“战争”。阿式登山者多是英国、美国和法国人，他们选择在较低山峰的快速攀登；围攻式攀登者一般是东欧和亚洲人，他们在高海拔的地方花长时间用野蛮的方式攀登。不同的的方式反映出东西方不同的文化和生活方式。你写道：风格最终只是个人的选择。你觉得两者究竟需要比较吗？

“你可能知道我的意思了。风格最终只是个人的选择问题；然而还是有些东西是普遍的，比如美德。我认为攀登就像日常生活，应该是有道德的行为。因为我觉得风格的美学意义和对风格的尊重是很重要的。一个极端是无安全、近乎自杀的攀登。”

“另一个极端是想尽办法消除所有的未知因素和风险，把完成目标的几率最大化。在这两个极端之间有一个平衡点，这应该是我们的目标。而这个平衡点在哪儿又是个人的选择，不过经常引起争论。”

“对我来说，围攻式消除了太多变数，把登顶看得比其他什么都重要。这完全无乐趣可言，而且剥夺了对攀登深刻意义和道德的体验。我认为，那些高海拔的高大山壁虽然现在还只围攻式攀登者的目标，最终它们中的大多数将被那些准备更充分的人以阿尔卑斯式攀登。至于这个东西方的区别，我可能不赞同。在美国的攀登者中有着不少胡扯的规范，而很多东欧的攀登者也以无可挑剔的方式完成了许多攀登。我觉得这没什么风气的问题。”



•在Rupal壁之后，你要攀登更高的山峰还是要回到阿尔卑斯和美国的冰岩线路上？换句话说，你下一步打算做什么？还有，你最梦寐以求的攀登是什么？

“我还十分渴望去更多的山峰。当然会继续在阿拉斯加攀登，那是我最喜欢的地方，那里有巨大的山峰，只是不太高。目前我没有什么具体的计划，不过挺想回到亚洲的高峰攀登。至于梦寐以求的，我想以类似Abruzzi公爵在1897年的方式攀登圣伊莱亚斯山，不过可能从另外一条线路。”












Vince’s ‘Rules of the Game’:

"We all play games, stockbrokers, politicians, prostitutes and even climbers. The rules we choose to play with dictate the style, and the style defines our experience. Being somewhat of an anarchist at heart, I like to think that the rules I use to govern the game of climbing are 'that there are no rules,' but I know that this is not true. There are rules -- many different types -- and I play by them. Perhaps mine are loosely defined, then again maybe not. Sometimes I even change them to suit my particular event."



Rule #1: Honesty matters. When I get up in the morning I don't want to be ashamed of who is looking back at me from the mirror. If I play by a different set of rules than someone else I am honest about it. I don't pretend that we are all playing equally.


Rule #2: Be polite. Style is ultimately a personal choice, but I try to consider how my actions (and words) will affect the experience of others.



Rule #3: Risk is inherent. Sometimes the rules we play by can be very unforgiving. Death is permanent (I guess this depends on one's personal beliefs), so I'm careful.



Rule #4: Play the game. To spray without having played should be a crime.



Rule #5: Have fun!"






文斯的“游戏法则”：

“我们都玩游戏，股票经纪人、政客、妓女，还有甚至攀登者。我们所选择的法则决定了我们的风格，我们的风格决定了我们的经历。我在内心里一直有些以无政府主义者自居，我觉得我攀登的游戏法则是‘没有法则’，但我也知道这并不是事实。确实是有法则的——很多不同的类型——而我按这些法则游戏。可能我的法则定义得不那么严格，也许不是这样。有时候我甚至为了适应某次特别的攀登而改变它们。”



•法则1：诚实很重要。当我早晨醒来的时候，我不想为从镜中看着我的那个人而感到耻辱。如果我遵循一套与众不同的法则，我对这个保持诚实。我不会假装我们都是公平的。



•法则2：有礼貌。风格说到底是个人的选择，但我会设法考虑我的行为（和言辞）会对别人的经历产生怎样的影响。



•法则3：风险总是存在。有时候我们遵循的法则会相当不可宽恕。死亡的危险总是有的（我想这取决于个人的信仰），所以我很小心。



•法则4：要有行动。光说不练等同于犯罪。



•法则5：玩开心






相關背景：

2005年9月1日至8日，Vince Anderson和Steve House以阿尔卑斯方式攀登了Nanga Parbat的Rupal face，綫路名稱The Central Pillar of the Rupal Face。該次攀登獲得2005年度金冰镐奖。

easyrider

Dean Potter Solos Yosemite's Separate Reality


New Hampshire born Dean Potter is well known as a speed climber and soloists with many firsts in Yosemite and Patagonia. He's the only person to free climb Yosemite's Half Dome and El Cap in a single day and made a fine solo of much sought after Astroman. In Patagonia, Dean made the first ever free solo of the Supercanaleta on Fitz Roy, followed with the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre and later free soloed the first ascent of Californian Roulette on Fitz Roy. Yes he is also known because of his controversial ascent of Delicate Arch in Utah that incensed many. He's also a mean boulderer with many first ascents both, lowball and highball, in Hueco Tanks and Yosemite.

Recently he went on a soloing spree in Yosemite and made the third solo of Separate Reality (5.11d) and the first solo of another Ray Jardine route Dog's Roof (5.12b) . The first solo of the exposed roof-crack Separate Reality was by the rock god Wolfgang Güllich in 1986 and the second in 2005 by the Austrian climber and photographer Heinz Zak (who took famous pictures of Güllich's first ascent).





Dean Potter solo了約塞美地的Separate Reality
（easyrider譯自ukclimbing）

來自新罕布什爾州的Dean Potter是一個聲名顯赫的速攀者和solo者，他在約塞美地和巴塔哥尼亞有著許多首登經歷。他是目前爲止唯一一個以自由攀登方式完成約塞美地的Half Dome和El Cap（一天内完成）的攀登者。他還很漂亮的solo了很受歡迎的Astroman（位于Washington州的Column，5.11c）。在巴塔哥尼亞，Dean第一個free solo完成了Fitz Roy峰的Supercanaleta路綫，隨後是Cerro Torre峰的“壓縮機”路綫，接著又以free solo方式首登Fitz Roy峰的“加利福尼亞輪盤”路綫。他同時也因爲攀登Utah州的“精美拱頂”引發的爭論而著名，那次攀登激怒了不少人。他在抱石方面也很出色，擁有很多首攀紀錄——無論是高大的巨石（譯注：highball指高度超過25英尺，比較危險的problem）還是小一些石頭，在Hueco Tanks和約塞美地。

最近他去約塞美地參加了一次solo的狂歡，完成了Separate Reality(5.11d)的第三次solo和Ray Jardine的Dog's Roof (5.12b)的首次solo。Separate Reality是一條暴露感強的屋簷裂縫綫路，首次solo完攀又Wolfgang Güllich在1986年完成。第二次solo由奧地利的攀岩者和攝影師Heinz Zak完成（他拍攝了Wolfgang Güllich首攀的著名照片）。





友情提示：攀岩有風險，solo請謹慎！

Photo below:
Wolfgang Güllich on the first solo ascent of Seperate Reality 5.11d, Yosemite
© Heinz Zack, Aug 2006

清沙

猴子辛苦了!!

easyrider

呵呵
和大家分享哈

丝路行者

为理想而生活是最大的享受！

自由@@

像山一样做人，顶喜欢。

郭勇飞笑

先坐起，慢慢看