| 11/1 Oaxaca--Matatlan 11/2 Matatlan--Yautepec 11/3 Yautepec--Chapultepec 11/4 Chapultepec--Juchitan Please read the English version in the second half of this article. 從海拔約1500的Oaxaca出發，到墨西哥南部的太平洋海岸，也許是我的旅程在墨國地形最崎嶇的段落。11/2-11/3二日行程，需翻越五個明顯的山頭。雖然道路狹窄，但是不知是這裡的駕駛有德國魂還是不乖的駕駛被自然淘汰，他們非常的友善而且遵守交通規則。這裡也是著名的mezcal酒產地。這是龍舌蘭酒的一種，僅產於墨國，並以Oaxaca州為主產地，最大特色為釀製的土窯悶燒過程讓它有碳燒味。這段路上我遇到許多運動單車騎士，其中一位的行程由Oaxaca市區出發，翻三個山頭，110公里後，再返回Oaxaca，一天翻六個山頭，真的不是普通頭好壯壯。 這段低海拔崎嶇炎熱路程騎來有內華達沙漠的感覺，但是路邊多了很多荊棘樹，這些等在路邊隨時偷襲我的惱人植物，在某些時候起了特殊作用。 11/4日步入平原段後，著名的落山風開始免費大放送。平原段也是人口密集區，有些土地被開發的只剩過動的沙塵，繞著枯葉和垃圾瘋狂的旋轉，這時候我會想念荊棘樹，它們提供一定的防風林效果，有時候路旁有百年大樹，但是數量稀少。 來自左側的強陣風北風讓我在路上定了一次竿，神奇是後方的車輛沒有狂按喇叭相送。搖搖晃晃的來到被地震嚴重損毀的Juchitan邊緣的漢堡王，太棒了，我有折價券，它有冷氣和隨你喝的碳酸飲料，經過一日不太健康的單車旅行，迎接的是不太健康的美味食物，其實美國的麥當勞比較吸引我，至少它有便宜的沙拉和無糖茶飲。但是這裡是墨西哥。富人和窮人誰比較注重健康，富人；誰比較注重環保，富人。所以台灣的環團以環保之名阻礙經濟發展，以為這樣比較環保，那是天大的笑話。人都吃不飽，誰管車輛碳排放還是白海豚會不會轉彎。全世界環保成功的國家是哪些，想想吧。 接下來的落山風路段讓我十分擔心，該不該棄船逃生，讓我好好考慮。 From Oaxaca, about 1500 meters above the sea level, to the plateau by the Pacific, may be the most hilly section in my journey in Mexico. There were total 5 remarkable passes on 11/2 and 11/3. But drivers were courteous to me on the narrow and windy section. This area is famous for Mezcal, a family of Tequila and is only produced in Mexico, mainly in Oaxaca state. One of the characteristic of Mezcal is the the light coal odor arising from the maturing process in the earth oven. I met many sporting cyclists on the way, and one of them planned to cycle 110 km with 3 passes from Oaxaca and then going back. What a itinerary. The mountains terrain and burning heat reminds me of the journey in Nevada, but there were more thorny shrubs on the roadside, preparing their best for stabbing me all the time. But I found them to have some functions to me. Leaving the mountains terrain, I was in a plateau notorious for the chinook. The flat is also a highly populated area, where excavators consumed the plants on some portion of lands and only dust left. The fierce chinook, made the dust spun restlessly around the garbage and dried leaves. Here I missed the thorns which provided some sort of wind stopper. There was only few giant tree on the roadside. After being stopped by a dangerous cross gust but magically not be honked by drivers behind, I finally arrived Juchitan, and found a burger king to rest. I had coupons and it has all I can drink sodas and air-conditioner. After a day of unhealthy cycle tour, an unhealthy meal was waiting for me, yummy. Well, I preferred the McDonald's in America which had cheap salad and unsweetened tea. But here's Mexico. That reminded me one thing ridiculous in Taiwan: the environmentalist stopped all the development by the name of eco friendly and their freewill instead of prudent assessment, and they really have the only right in the world to stop any development. They requested the developer to be a “profession of the porous coral” before acting. They requested a road construction crew to stop everything if the “bird count” lower than some number. Even they requested a express train company to be under months of assessment beforehand only for shifting the first train ten minutes earlier. But who pays more attention to the health and environment, the richer or the poorer. People have to feed themselves before caring about the carbon release of their vehicles. And developed countries usually have more sense of preserving the environment. The coming road which is severely affected by chinooks made me consider to “abandon the ship”. Let me see.  mezcal蒸餾製酒 路景 路景 路景 路景 路景 路旁眾多的Mezcal田 路上遇到的自行車騎士 磨碎待發酵的mezcal 注意落山風告示牌 |
| 11/4 Chaputepec--Juchitan(de Zaragoza) 58 km Please read the English version in the second half of this article 墨西哥南部的地形為低陷區，因此有著名的落山風，這留待之後介紹。這裡是中美洲地狹的北端，而距離太平洋僅約30公里直線距離的Juchitan，是今年9月Chiapas地震受創最嚴重的地區之一。 在事前我不斷考慮是否應該駐留此地，畢竟，我不想在大家忙亂之際，站在瓦礫堆上，告訴大家：看，我來過這裡。我在Chaputepec打聽一番，雖然一大半有聽沒懂，但是似乎多數居民的生活已經逐漸回覆正常。 我必須待在Juchitan的原因主要為氣候因素，否則一天不會只騎58公里。繞過Juchitan的主要公路看來所有建築物一片正常，但是步入市區，本來以為的局部災情，並非如此。 這是Oaxaca州的重要城市，Google地圖顯示城鎮中心有超過一打的旅館。我在滿街的瓦礫堆中尋找存活的旅店，發現別說建築物本身，多數的旅店連招牌都不見蹤影。我找到一間外觀看似平常的旅館，但是並未營業。最後我回到主要公路，找到一間也許是這個城市僅存的住宿，也是我看過最繁忙的旅館，四星級，星星數目在墨西哥似乎沒有太多意義，也不一定和價格呈正比。 市區幾乎沒有完整的磚瓦建築物，而歷史悠久的行政中心雖然茍延殘喘，但是外觀已受嚴重破壞。但是在城市中心，週六市集仍生氣蓬勃，我打聽一下，了解許多店面損壞的商家選擇在這裡搭起臨時棚架繼續生意。街上的三輪摩托計程車(我目前只在Oaxaca州看到這些車輛)取代其他地區的廂型計程車，努力的搶客與東鑽西竄，的確，似乎居民的生活已經逐漸回覆正常。 在行政中心旁的完全被摧毀的建築物的瓦礫堆上，本來有象徵墨西哥團結一心的國旗飄揚，但是現在已被移除。即使如此，墨西哥人的團結在很多地方顯現，不只是暫時性的象徵物。 The southeastern lowland of Mexico, where isthmus of Tehuantepec locates, is notorious for the chinooks(the fierce wind comes down from the mountains) which is the main reason for me to cycle only 58 km on the day. Aside from that, city of Juchitan, about 30 km from the Pacific, is one of the most damaged area in Chiapas earthquake in 7, September this year. I don't want to stand on the rubble and tell everyone on the fb that”look, I am here” when everyone is still busy at reconstruction. So I asked around in Chaputepec, and I got the positive answer(although I can only understand a little of the Spanish conversation) that most resident in the city is back on track. And the chinooks made my stop at the city was a must. The main building on the highway outskirting this city looked fine. But stepped into the center, where I tried to find out a survival hotel. (Juchitan is an important city of Oaxaca and Google maps indicate there are at least a dozen of hotels in the center.) I soon realized that not mention to the building of the hotels,even the signs didn't exist. I asked a hotel in a good shape in the appearance if the owner was still running the business. He wasn't. From the center that dominated by debris, I went back to the highway and found a four stars hotel which is open. This is the busiest hotels I have ever seen. And it seems that the stars of a hotel in Mexico don't necessary mean something or proportion to its price. But the weekend market was still aminated. And I realized that lots of people whose store were damaged ran their small business here under the temporary scaffold. The 3-wheeled motorbikes, which I only found in Oaxaca state on my journey of Mexico, substitute the van bus, drive rampantly on the street. It appeared to me that the most lives of the city is at least try the best to be back to normal. The historic municipal palace suffered notable destroyed. The debris aside was placed a national flag on top, which fully expressed the patriotism of Mexican but had been removed. But I found many situations where locals to express their unity, not only the temporary symbol. 市中心市集，左側是受損嚴重的歷史建築行政中心 |
| Please read the English version in the second half of this article. 11/5 在Juchitan 最理想的工作，也許是像現在這樣，早上起來再決定今天是否是慵懶的一天。 一早起來，我到櫃檯晃了一下，發現他們有週日早餐吃到飽，重點是似乎整個城市的居民都蜂擁至此。既然如此，何不一試。 難怪這個早餐吃到飽會受到居民的喜愛。除了各種玉米餅，還有諸如我之前吃過的menudo(墨西哥牛肚湯)等料理，可是這些料理對我太辣，我只能乖乖像隔壁桌的小朋友吃喜瑞爾和配炒蛋。 整個餐廳塞滿了人，落單的顧客得共享餐桌。與我同桌的是學校教師，他英語不行，主動帶我到城裡兜風，看看地震後的情況，這是我還在考慮今天的行程(旅館一晚450peso有些貴，但是其他城市的旅館受地震影響幾乎未開放)。但是他幾乎哀求的語氣，甚至拿出教職員證證明身分。那就多待一日吧。 他指著空地說：『這裡本來是廚房，這裡是臥室…。』家受到嚴重損壞後，目前僅能以帳棚暫居，內部十分悶熱，整個城市我只看到中國和加拿大的帳棚，也有舊衣路邊攤任君挑選。應觀眾要求，這是我第一次挑戰中西文翻譯(翻譯帳棚上的文字)，看來觀眾有聽有懂。而讓我更好奇的不只斷垣殘壁，而是居民的生活情形。週日早上是被塞爆的餐廳，晚上則是被塞爆的電影院和隔壁的咖啡廳。除了代表貧富差距，這還代表什麼呢。 『大家週日還是需要放假的』。非常正當的理由，簡單明瞭我聽得懂的西文。除此之外，旅館有警衛，雖然他們隨著陰影移動而不是嚴肅的站在門口，也有開門工，某方面來說，一間旅館養活那麼多人，加上我用不到的游泳池，不虧比稍高的房費。 之後的落山風路段後，路程會再度翻上2000公尺的高原，然後是一些冷門的馬雅遺址。 11/5 In Juchitan It was a perfect day. I woke up and then deciding the schedule for the day. I went to the counter and found the attached restaurant was full of people. I soon realized that they have breakfast buffet in every Sunday and it is very popular with residents. Since that, I chose to give it a try. No wonder the breakfast buffet is highly appropriated by locals. There are all kinds of Mexico cuisine, even menudo, Mexican beef tripe soup. But the cuisine were too spicy for me and I can only have cereal and deep fried eggs. The restaurant was stuffed with people and alone customers had to share the table. A school teacher sat down on my table and volunteer to give me a motorbike ride in the city. The main reason that I can't make my mind to take the city tour was the higher hotel price, 450 pesos for a night. But he was almost begging and even showed me his id. I was determined to stay there for another day. He pointed the ground, told me: here was the kitchen, and here was the bedroom…. His house was severely damaged in the earthquake and had to stayed in casita temporary, the small house or the tent. I found tents provided by China and Canada in the city. Also, he showed me the stand of charitable clothes. And it was my first try to translate Chinese(the worlds on the tent) into Spanish, it seemed that he can understand. I was curious about another scenery in the city about the people's life aftermath. That's, I saw the restaurant crowded with people in the morning, and I saw a crowded cinema and it's attached cafe at night in the weekend. “People still need entertainment.”. He gave me a simple answer other than the wealthy inequality. And I was glad to stay in a hotel providing so many jobs: the counter staff, the janitor, the restaurant staff and chef, someone to open the door for customers, and even the guards. Although the guards usually stood in the shadows instead of standing seriously by the entrance. Ahead of me is the chinook section and then a hilly terrain to another highland. Beyond them are Maya route less traveled. Well, it will be fun. 帶我城市旅遊的教師 帶我城市旅遊的教師受損毀的住處，其他部分(如廚房等)已完全坍塌 居民的臨時住處 路邊舊衣攤 學校遺址 學校遺址 |
| 11/6 Juchitan--Tapanatepec Please read the English version in the second half of this article Ventoso，西語的風大，這個村落是重要的交通節點，主產風電。 簡單說明落山風的成因，北方的空氣被自然力量推上山坡，因為山不太高，爬山不會耗費太多能量；加上南北海岸距離狹窄，導致這些半推半就的氣團滾下南側山坡產生巨大的力量。 過了Ventoso是約20公里的風力發電機海，前半段道路不但沒有路肩，甚至路邊是海濱潟湖或沼澤，我不能在狹窄的道路騎車緊臨右側白線以給與車輛最大空間通過，而必須稍微騎在路中間。 沒有替代道路下，我想駕駛應該很習慣路上深陷暴風圈的小兔子，他們小心翼翼的通過比酒駕更酒駕的單車。Ventoso約15公里後是一個村落，再往前出現禁止單車的指示牌，十分幽默。這裡我慎重考慮棄單車就公車，畢竟從村落中心比較容易等得到能承載單車的公車。 這個村落離出發點約35公里，而距離最近有住宿的村落約20公里。再往前看看嗎？從樂觀的角度來看，這裡的風速『只』像加拿大的Alberta或美國的懷俄明州東南部，那裡廣闊的平原正好讓盛行西風發揮完全的力量，但是之後神奇的路肩出現了，至少我不必再當路障。 抵達最近有住宿的村落僅約12點，55公里6個小時，這樣的狀況還算恰當。午餐後我決定再往前30公里到下個村落，沒想到等著我的是因為抗議封街而綿延約3公里的貨車陣。 那個封街抗議村落和我認識的墨西哥不太一樣，我最好速速通過。還要再騎20公里的暴風路段，小兔子的金鼎電池快沒電了。 在11小時的乘風破浪後，我在距離出發點約105公里的村落找到一間有冷氣的平價旅館，約20美金。這也是我出發前擔心的：沿路的村莊不知道重建的如何。這間旅館明顯受到地震嚴重影響，有些房間還在整修，我的房間也有明顯新舊不一的地磚鋪設。但是所幸他們已開張大吉，白天公路大冒險後，晚上我到海鮮餐廳(這裡鄰近海岸)繼續大冒險。蝦(camaron)的ceviche不知是啥東東，請參閱照片。 Ventoso, windy in Spanish, is a village on an important crossroad, and is rich in wind power. The north air of the Mexico isthmus is pushed to low hills and then rushing to the south lowland to become a notorious fierce wind. Ventoso is in the storm centre, and there is about 30 km of wind farm along the highway. Beyond Ventoso, there is no more shoulder, and what made me in more dangerous situation was the swamp on my right. I can't stick to the white line but had to cycle near the middle of the car lane for not being blown to the swamp. But I found the driver might adjust to the zigzag cyclist without any feasible substitution road. They carefully passed me without any intimidating. I arrived in a village after 15 km of exhausting paddling, and saw a interesting “no cycling” signpost. I considered seriously to jump on the bus, and it was easier to find a bus that was capable of carrying I bicycle in the village. But to think about the bright side, the wind was ONLY as strong as I encountered in Alberta, Canada or Wyoming, USA. So I decided to struggle further. And soon after the village the shoulder showed up for me! I arrived in another village with accommodation of 55 km from the start point at about 12 pm, which I planned to overnight at first. I t took me about 6 hours for the 55 km section, not very bad. I kept going after lunch for another village with accommodation, about 30 km further. But I can't stay in that village because of a protest which wasn't seem to be friendly. The protest blocked the highway, leading to 3 km long of truck jam. I excreted myself for cycling 20 km further in the fierce cross winds. And luckily found a nice budget hotel in the next village,Tapanatepec. I was worried about the villages along the way being severely damaged by Chiapas earthquake, and the hotel I stayed was under some sort of reconstruction due to the disaster: some rooms were still unavailable and the new built floor tiles in my room. But I was fortunate enough to have a cozy place for the night. After the great adventure of the day, I kept “adventuring” to order something I didn't understand in a seafood restaurant. Camaron de ceviche, a cold dish of medium well shrimps, was originated in Peru and was really delicious. And the cookers cleaned up the shrimps thoroughly to make sure that I can survive both the fierce wind and the under cooked shrimps. ceviche de camaron，原產於秘魯的涼拌蝦美味料理，120peso，廚師把半生不熟蝦清的很乾淨，吃來無後顧之憂 落山暴風區，風力發電機海與禁止單車牌子 旅館，地磚有修補過的新痕跡 旅館中庭與太陽能發電版 芒果田吧 因抗爭封路造成的3公里車陣 |
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