搜索
美国

一路向南,穿越美洲大陆单车旅行-美洲篇

查看:56559 | 回复:147
发表于 2018-4-24 23:22 显示全部帖子
Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

11/17 參觀Palenque

從馬雅遺址大鎮Palenque出發到瓜地馬拉只剩約150-200公里路程。周遭地區為叢林,地處偏遠,因此Palenque鄰近的兩個邊境關口中的陸路關口El ceibo似乎成為中美洲四國,台灣四個壞朋友居民的『自由大道』,與走私大道,當然不是走私香蕉。另一個水路關口(需搭船過Usumacinta河)Frontera corozal因為交通不便,似乎平靜很多,但是瓜地馬拉側是大約100公里的土石路。

被偷渡的國家總是重兵駐守,偷渡別人的國家隨隨便便,北韓除外。在自由大道上,墨西哥是被偷渡的國家(雖然中美洲難民的最終目的常非墨西哥),所以應該治安無慮,但是瓜地馬拉側的狀況不明,而且地圖上呈現約130公里的無居民地帶。沒有居民代表更高機率的壞東西出沒。

現在有兩個邊界選擇,一個是高機率的壞東西相伴,另一個是確定的壞路相隨,我問了一些Palenque的旅客與觀光業者,沒人能給我確切建議。當然還有另一個選擇,搭公車長驅直入。讓我想想。

11/17 visit Palenque

From town Palenque, which is famous for its Mayan city nearby, I have only about 150-200km to the border. 2 borders near Palenque, El Ceibo border is in the dense and remote jungle(compared to other main borders between Mexico and Guatemala) and is notorious for the illegal immigration and smuggling, not smuggling bananas. The other border, Frontera corozal, is much remote and tourists have to take a ferry to the other side of the Usumacinta river, which plays a role of a natural boundary between Mexico and Guatemala. Frontera Corozal border and nearby area seems calmer due to inconvenience of transportation, but about 100 km of dirt road is waiting for me once I cross the river.

The country the illegal immigrants cross to usually heavily guards the boundary, and the country providing illegal immigrants usually doesn't need to, North Korea is an exception. Mexico is the country of the rest stop of illegal immigrants on the “highway to the freedom”, so it doesn't seem like so dangerous on the Mexico side of El ceibo border. But no one could tell me the situation on the Guatemala side, a country providing immigrants. More worth, the highway on Guatemala side of El Ceibo border winds through about 130 km of wild jungle with only few inhabitants, and I really wonder if I should prepare at least a dozen of wallets for bandits.

So there are two options to Guatemala, one is calmer with strenuous unpaved section, and the other one has security concerns. I asked around in Palenque and no one could tell me what to do. Ok, there's another option: to cross by bus. I will see.
El Palacio (Palace),興建於西元五世紀並經過400年的增建,推測是皇室成員的住所。高塔用於觀測太陽位置以推斷節氣季節.jpg

下载积分: 驴币 -1

El Palacio (Palace),興建於西元五世紀並經過400年的增建,推測是皇室成員的住所。高塔用於觀測太陽位置以推斷節氣季節
Palenque.jpg

下载积分: 驴币 -1

Palenque
Templo de las Inscripticiones (Temple of the Inscriptions)。1952年,墨西哥考古學家 Alberto Ruz Lhuillier發現這座神廟

下载积分: 驴币 -1

Templo de las Inscripticiones (Temple of the Inscriptions)。1952年,墨西哥考古學家 Alberto Ruz Lhuillier發現這座神廟神廟之下的墓室。墓室的主人為 Palenque歷史上著名的君王Pakal。身上的珠寶已移往墨西哥城人類學博物館
居民一般建築.jpg

下载积分: 驴币 -1

居民一般建築
神廟Templo de la Cruz (Temple of the Cross),名稱來自早期的探險家看到神殿裡面石版的雕刻有類似十字架的圖案,實際上這些十字架代表支撐宇宙的木棉樹ceiba.jpg

下载积分: 驴币 -1

神廟Templo de la Cruz (Temple of the Cross),名稱來自早期的探險家看到神殿裡面石版的雕刻有類似十字架的圖案,實際上這些十字架代表支撐宇宙的木棉樹ceiba
神廟Templo de la Cruz (Temple of the Cross)的雕刻.jpg

下载积分: 驴币 -1

神廟Templo de la Cruz (Temple of the Cross)的雕刻
左側太陽神廟(temple del sol),用於紀念君王Serpent Juguar二世的出生與加冕。右側為.jpg

下载积分: 驴币 -1

左側太陽神廟(temple del sol),用於紀念君王Serpent Juguar二世的出生與加冕。右側為

发表于 2018-4-26 17:25 显示全部帖子
更新长帖不容易 支持一下
1人点评 收起
发表于 2018-4-26 17:26 显示全部帖子
非常佩服楼主
1人点评 收起
发表于 2018-4-26 23:51 显示全部帖子
还衣格格 发表于 2018-4-26 17:25
更新长帖不容易 支持一下

感謝支持,謝謝
发表于 2018-4-26 23:51 显示全部帖子
番茄味的西红柿 发表于 2018-4-26 17:26
非常佩服楼主

感謝支持,謝謝
发表于 2018-4-26 23:52 显示全部帖子
Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

11/20 Palenque--hotel camino verde
11/21 --Frontera corazon
11/22-- 瓜地馬拉花城(Flores),搭車

我喜歡跨越少旅客的關口,除了挑戰性,越多旅客的關口,往往越折騰的通關手續。續談之前,我先談一個我不太一樣的觀念:原則上,我不會和海關人員爭論『繳費換入境章』這件事。先進國家有一定規矩,不會有爭議,比較有問題的是發展中國家,常有被認為索賄現象。我不爭論的原因有幾個:首先,海關人員有絕對權力讓旅客入境與否,把他們惹毛不是開玩笑的。此外,發展中國家在冷門關口的海關人員常有薪資過低的問題,給他一些小費『支持』他好好工作,不要隨便找旅客麻煩,我不覺得有太多不妥。另外,在語言隔閡下,被旅客認為的索賄說不定不是索賄。

先介紹幾個文章將會不斷出現的地點名稱,或是你可以直接跳到倒數第五段:
Palenque:以列為世界文化遺產的馬雅古城著名的觀光城市。
Bonampak:另一個以壁畫著名的馬雅古城,遺址岔路口位於Palenque南方115公里處。
Frontera corazon:岔路口與Bonampak岔路口位於同條公路上,為前往瓜地馬拉與另一個馬雅古城Yuchitan的搭船渡口。Yuchitan只能搭船前往,無公路到達。

Bonampak,Yuchitan兩個馬雅古城,和從Frontera corazon搭船到對岸的瓜地馬拉都在我的計畫中。至於要怎麼安排,費了一番腦筋。

Yuchitan只能搭船前往,Bonampak需要搭乘接駁車,雖然在我預定線路上,可是我發現由Palenque找旅行團前往比較便宜,來回含門票早午餐運輸等僅800pesos,約47美金,不含導遊,所有Palenque的旅行社行程都不含導遊。

翌日,Palenque到瓜地馬拉的兩個關口,為了安全考量,我決定走交通較不便的Frontera corazon,而不是整路舖柏油的El Ceibo。中間在小旅館過夜後,11/21續往關口前進。也就是說,Frontera Corazon我到訪兩次,一次是跟團去Yuchitan,一次是自己通關。

我在路上預想到瓜地馬拉的狀況。面對80公里的爛路,我不確定我有哪些選項,所以我列出一個絕對不能做的事:搭乘不熟的私人計程車。搭船到對岸的瓜地馬拉後,移民檢查處還有12公里,我怎麼知道我下車通關時,駕駛會不會趁亂把我的行李載走。

但是事情出奇順利。到了Frontera corazon,這個以生態旅遊為主軸之一的小鎮(雖然餐廳桌巾潔淨的詭異),入住hotel Nueva Allianza,接下來我實在不敢相信自己的耳朵。

150pesos(9美金)住宿(共用浴廁),300pesos搭船加包車載到Flores。

那麼便宜,而且完全不用傷腦筋,旅館人員十分好心,翌日早上他先帶我到墨西哥移民局蓋出境章,幫我打電話給不知道過哪國時間的官員來開門上工,接下來他帶我到渡船頭。更神奇的是,對岸有個旅遊資訊站,裡面有會說英語的服務員,真是中頭獎。而中頭獎的不只我,還有旅遊資訊站旁邊的換錢小販,因為我拿出快3000pesos跟他換錢,而他提供的匯率也比我兩天前查到的好。搭包車的除了我還有一對德國情侶,男的在爛路上吐得亂七八糟,不知道回去會不會收到『dear John』。看來今天跨界的應該就我們三人。我很高興我沒有騎爛路,除了路真的糟,原來的雨林(在墨西哥還看得到)幾乎砍伐殆盡,黃沙中,半點涼蔭也沒有。Flores雖然位於瓜地馬拉,但是沒有太多貧窮的樣貌,這裡以馬雅遺址聞名,也是我未來一週的重頭戲。

1/20 Palenque--hotel camino verde
11/21 --Frontera corazon
11/22 --Flores, Guatemala by transportation

I like to cross the border less traveled. It's challenging sometimes, but usually with fewer hassles. Unlike some travelers, I don't argue with the customs officers with the “fees of cleaning custom” or fees regarded as a bride for many reasons, which is quite common in developing countries. First, they have absolutely right to decide to let me in or not, and it's not fun to piss them off. Second, I never understand if it's really a bride under the communication barriers. And the immigration officers in the developing countries are usually less paid. For me, it doesn't matter to “tip” them for doing a better job and not to give the traveler a difficult time. I don't prefer to judge someone before I really understand him.

I would like to introduce some locations in this leg. Or you could skip these to the last 5 paragraphs.

Palenque: A charming small town famous for its Mayan city listed in UNESCO.

Bonampak: A Mayan ruins with amazing murals.

Yuxchitan: Another attractive Mayan ruins only accessible by boat from Frontera Corazon.

Frontera Corazon: The Mexico border village with boat launch to Yuxchitan and Guatemala.

The four places above are around the same route. But I found it was cheaper to join a group from Palenque to both ruins, Bonampak and Yuxchitan. My original plan was to to cycle to Frontera corazon and visit the two sites on my way to the border village. So I actually travelled the route twice, once in a van and the other on the paddle. The price of the tour was 800 pesos(47USD), including transportation(vehicle and boat), the entrance fees, and two meals. No one in Palenque provided a tour package with a guide.

After the day of the tour, I decided to take the border of Frontera corazon instead of El Ceibo. The first one, which travelers have to take a boat to cross the border line, received fewer visitors and thought to be safer. But there was 80 km of rugged dirt road on Guatemalan side. Instead of guessing what the situation I will encounter once I cross, I listed one thing that I should never try. That is, DO NOT TAKE A PRIVATE TAXI OR TO HITCHHIKE WHICH I WAS NOT FAMILIAR WITH. The immigration office was located 12 km from the boat launch and I didn't know if the drive will take my baggage away when I am “checking-in”.

But things went much smoother than I expected. I arrived in Frontera Corazon, a border town famous for its otherwise inaccessible Mayan city Yuxchitan and eco tour, although I found the table cloth restaurant in the hotel were too spotless. I asked the hotel staff about the information.

“150 pesos(9 USD) for a single room(public toilet) and 300 pesos for the boat/private transportation to Flores, Guatemala.”

Bingo. So cheap and so easy. The staff was very helpful. On the next morning, he took me to the Mexico immigration office, gave the officer a wake-up call when we found the office was closed at the time it should be open. Then he took me to the boat launch. After crossing the boundary river, the boater took me to the bus stand 100 meters away, where I found a helpful tourist information and also an English-speaking staff. I was so lucky as if I hit the jackpot when I realized everything went so well. And the money changer also hit the jackpot because I exchanged almost 3000 pesos with him.( He provided very good rate.). There were another German couple to join the van travel to Flores, and it seemed that we were the only three people to cross this remote border on the day. And I was glad to not cycle on the dusty and deforested leg without any shadow. I could see some rain forest on Mexico side but almost nothing left in Guatemala. Flores, located in Guatemala, without any poverty appearance, is well-known for the Mayan cities, and also my destination in the coming week.
搭船到對岸的瓜地馬拉.jpg

下载积分: 驴币 -1

搭船到對岸的瓜地馬拉
瓜地馬拉邊境Bethel.jpg

下载积分: 驴币 -1

瓜地馬拉邊境Bethel
瓜地馬拉渡船頭的旅遊資訊站與接駁車.jpg

下载积分: 驴币 -1

瓜地馬拉渡船頭的旅遊資訊站與接駁車
好心協助我安排交通咻數穆灭^工作人員.jpg

下载积分: 驴币 -1

好心協助我安排交通運輸的旅館工作人員
路景,墨西哥的雨林還有樹,瓜地馬拉的雨林已成歷史.jpg

下载积分: 驴币 -1

路景,墨西哥的雨林還有樹,瓜地馬拉的雨林已成歷史
旅館房間 Nueva Allianza,這附近的村落都走純樸風,有吊扇,共用浴廁.jpg

下载积分: 驴币 -1

旅館房間 Nueva Allianza,這附近的村落都走純樸風,有吊扇,共用浴廁
墨西哥邊境小鎮Frontera corazon,也是往無道路抵達的Yuxchilan遺址渡船頭.jpg

下载积分: 驴币 -1

墨西哥邊境小鎮Frontera corazon,也是往無道路抵達的Yuxchilan遺址渡船頭
走得比雞快的豬媽媽和豬孩子.jpg

下载积分: 驴币 -1

走得比雞快的豬媽媽和豬孩子

发表于 2018-4-27 22:55 显示全部帖子
很抱歉,臨時有事,暫停至五月十日左右
发表于 2018-5-17 14:27 显示全部帖子
11/24 In Flores

Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

在台灣健行,得應付一群專制的警察。在瓜地馬拉,則是一群以真亂假的騙子。

從今年中開始,El Mirador為了避免古蹟被不當破壞,不再允許無嚮導自組前往(充分理由的撈錢之術,台灣也學學吧),鑑於瓜地馬拉未來斷交後台灣旅客有門進不去的風險,套裝行程再貴也得吞下去。

Grand Jaguar,像所有街上的旅行社,有賣真的交通票,真的Tikal套票(位於Flores城郊必訪的馬雅遺址),因為我多次看到背包客在門口等車。但是假的El Mirador旅程。除非仔細瀏覽網路評論,否則很難察覺不對勁。他的其中一名員工曾到台灣交換學生(這應該是真的),我如往常比較價格服務後,交錢拿票券。

我很遺憾他來台灣不好好學中文,學台灣舉世聞名的詐騙大法,真假虛實完美融合才是最高境界。行程當日早上,他跟我說其他團員亂吃亂拉送醫院,必須延後但是翌日保證出發,即使只剩我一人,他甚至幫我出旅館錢。類似方法我之前在坦尚尼亞遇到,聽起來合理但是明顯破綻百出。我一人去價格怎麼可能和一群人去一樣。

我先虛假的答應,在網路確定評論後,知道他們會不斷的拖,要不然真的帶你出發(搭上車就不能退費了),接下來可能是無牌嚮導等我,或是把你放
生,或是6日的悽慘生活。之前提過,旅客需要合格嚮導才能前往,否則會遭遇罰款。

之後他們當然用各式理由不給我全額退款,算了。讓這件事更悲哀的是,之前我被警告的事情應驗了:周遭人們友善嗎?那是因為他們知道幫助你至少不會給自己帶來麻煩(換句話說,路上遇劫別指望他人停車相挺)。我前一天到處詢問時,沒有人警告我,旅館主人也是事後才跟我說,他們被抓很多次,但是畢竟是『合法』業者,抓了又放,放了之後開分店換名字。

我最後由INGAUT,訓練合格嚮導的機構確定可以信任的旅行社。這次我不再隨心所遇,仔細看過網路評論再前往。這間合格旅行社只是比較誠實,但我已經準備好面對真假難辨的話語,有其他人要去,用收據副本證明給我看,在我的收據上寫下所有你答應的服務。跟昨天去Tikal行程狀況類似,他們不在乎人,只在乎錢,前往Tikal超過1小時車程的15人座小巴塞了來自不同旅行社的20人-他們在走道放座椅,其中一位旅客看到這樣的安排勃然大怒,但也沒輒。而前往El Mirador居然得搭事故頻繁的chicken bus,而非私人廂型車。

馬雅祖先可能在哭泣,他們蓋神廟是拿來拜日月之神,不是詐騙大神的。

Hikers have to deal with a bunch of domineering local police, and have to deal with a huge pack of crooks to go to El Mirador, Guatemala.

El Mirador, a Mayan site with highest pyramid in the world, is hidden in the remote jungle in northern Guatemala. Since this summer, hikers have to hire a licenced guide to avoid any possible sabotage of the ancient buildings. And considering the highly possibility that Guatemala ruptures the diplomatic relation with Taiwan and closes the door to Taiwan visitors in the foreseeable future, I have to take this expensive tour now. As normal usual, I shopped around and chose one tour agency providing better price to El Mirador.

Grand Jaguar, the travel agency which sells real transportation tickets and Tikal tour package(a must-see Mayan ruins near Flores). I found backpackers in the agency for the vehicle several times. But they lies about the El Mirador tour.

I am very sorry that Taiwan doesn't only export electronics but scammers. The crook in the office went to Taiwan as an exchange student(should be true because he knows so much about Taiwan). I should ask what subjects he majored in his school. On the early morning of departure, he told me other hikers were sent to the hospital because of food poisoning. We had to postpone the schedule a day after and he would pay for my unexpected staying. No matter what, I will go on second day, alone or in a group. A similar story I heard in the tour of climbing Kilimanjaro, a most terrible tour I had attended.

Until then I realized that I was scammed. How could it possible that I pay the same price to go alone as in the group? I responded positively and then searched on line, understanding that the travel agency will postpone the schedule again and again until you can't stand it anymore, or take you for the hiking, without a licensed guide and sufficient supplies, or even left you in the remote village. And hikers can't ask for any refund after “departure”, once they are on the vehicle.

I can't get the total refund but at least I stopped things going worse. What made this event more terrible was NO ONE WARNED ME when I was asking around several agencies. Even the hotel manager told me only in afterwards that the crooks was caught several times but always released because they really have a qualified agency. And they changed the name of the agency several times. A traveller told me that people help you only after understanding that they don't get any trouble. Don't count on the passing vehicles when carjacking. Sad for this negative comment fulfilled.

I didn't give up my tour. Instead, I went to INGAUT, the agency trains a qualified guide, for more information. I learned the only trustworthy agency, although staffs there were still notorious for telling you the half truth and ripping off hikers. But I prepared for this. You said there are other hikers, SHOW ME THE COPY OF INVOICE. And WRITE DOWN EVERYTHING YOU PROMISE TO PROVIDE IN THE PACKAGE.

Most staffs in the agencies care only about money in town. I and another 19 visitors was packed in a 15-seats van(they put seats on the aisle) to Tikal yesterday, we were gathered by several different agencies, and a traveler was really furious with this arrangement. And I have to take the accident frequented chicken bus the the trail head of El Mirador. Not a private van even after a huge amount of payment.

Maybe Mayans are crying for some of their descendants worshiping the god of scam. I will definitely go by myself if possible.
Bonampak壁畫之一,描述戰事與俘虜.jpg

下载积分: 驴币 -1

Bonampak壁畫之一,描述戰事與俘虜
Bonampak遺址,以壁畫聞名.jpg

下载积分: 驴币 -1

Bonampak遺址,以壁畫聞名
Bonampak主建築物, 建於公元8世紀末(公元791年11月11日正式使用),長16米,深4米,高7米, 推測它也可能曾經有屋頂結構,它由三個獨立的房間組成,其中包含壁畫,敘述圍繞Bonupak統

下载积分: 驴币 -1

Bonampak主建築物, 建於公元8世紀末(公元791年11月11日正式使用),長16米,深4米,高7米, 推測它也可能曾經有屋頂結構,它由三個獨立的房間組成,其中包含壁畫,敘述圍繞Bonupak統治者Yajaw Chaan Muwan的兒子Chooj和Aj Sak Teles的孫子所投入的事件
位於 Usumacinta河畔Yuxchitan的結構3(structure 3)。這遺址的傑作之一。可能在Bird Jaguar IV在756年興建。這個結構可以俯瞰整個城市和河流,其中頂端的精美雕

下载积分: 驴币 -1

位於 Usumacinta河畔Yuxchitan的結構3(structure 3)。這遺址的傑作之一。可能在Bird Jaguar IV在756年興建。這個結構可以俯瞰整個城市和河流,其中頂端的精美雕刻被稱為象形文字階梯(Hieroglyphic Stairway)。
位於 Usumacinta河畔Yuxchitan的南衛城(south Acropolis).jpg

下载积分: 驴币 -1

位於 Usumacinta河畔Yuxchitan的南衛城(south Acropolis)
位於 Usumacinta河畔Yuxchitan的南衛城.jpg

下载积分: 驴币 -1

位於 Usumacinta河畔Yuxchitan的南衛城

你需要登录后才可以回帖 登录 | 注册 |