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一路向南,穿越美洲大陆单车旅行-美洲篇

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发表于 2017-8-30 10:14 显示全部帖子
mboutside2011 发表于 2017-8-29 16:43

多谢多谢
发表于 2017-9-1 09:50 显示全部帖子
05/05 Dawson creek, start point of Alaska highway(阿拉斯加公路起點)--Wembley 110km
05/06 Wembley--Grande Prairie(大草原城)--Kakwa recreation area 113km
05/07 Kakwa--Grande cache 92km
騎這段路前,請到各大城市索取免費資訊,包含宿營地等。
歡迎來到加拿大的新竹,Alberta, always windy.(亞伯達省總是風大。北美焚風小有名氣,網路有更多資料。
離開陪伴我近一個月的阿拉斯加公路,接下來的方向是往加拿大的兩個國家公園--賈斯柏與班夫(Jasper and Banff)而從大草原城到欣頓(Hinton,進入國家公園前的北方大鎮),這段大約300公里的40號公路,集合了所有單車族的惡夢元素。
包含了強風、短距離的連續極陡升降坡、缺乏補給(僅半路的Grande cache)、極窄甚至缺乏路肩,還有一堆貨車等。五月六日當天看到的貨車數量大概和我在育空半個月看到的還多,一點都不誇張。在cutbank river過橋之後的陡升坡我得牽車前進,不是因為坡太陡,而是雙向貨車不斷交會根本不留空間給我,因此我得到路旁的草皮邊牽車邊乖乖玩沙。貨車司機多禮遇單車族,但是擋路的單車族,就像我之前提的,他們會使出高超的『穿越摸乳巷』特技。算了,我還是乖乖玩沙吧。
到了相對溫暖的南部,人們不用再奮力求生,戶外運動也相對盛行,這也許是這段路停下與我拍照的人馬變多的原因之一。有一位女駕駛把我的照片放在社區的網頁,然後隔日有另一位駕駛停車根我說:我看到你的照片,三明治給你,吃吧。也許是藍色外套加上一堆塑膠袋五花大綁實在太顯眼。另外一組在接近預定營地停車的人馬,後來則到營地教我加拿大喝罐裝啤酒的方法--接近罐底挖一個小洞,小洞對嘴並拉開瓶口,讓空氣壓力把啤酒瞬間『推』入喉嚨,並好心的想給我一堆空酒鐵罐換錢(10個1元),我婉拒(個人喜愛輕量化旅行)並說:我覺得最好的賺錢方法是不要亂花錢。希望他們沒喝酒駕車。
進入國家公園就是標準的旅遊路線,希望健行步道上的冰雪已幾乎融化。
Alberta, always windy. A local told me. Whether it's exaggerating, it seems from Grande Prairie to Grande cache, highway No. 40, is one of the nightmare for a cyclist.
Combination of strong winds, continuous steep grades in short distance, the shoulder is narrow or even absent, and numerous trucks, makes this section of cycle tour the most difficult part in Canada to me. I think that the number of trucks passed by me on 5th May is more than the number in the half month of my journey in Yukon. I even have to walk the bicycle on the steep uphill beyond the Cutbank bridge. I walked on the grassy field outside the road because there's no room for me--trucks continuing to pass on the lanes of dual direction and I found no room for one more bicycle. Most truckers are carefully to pass through cyclists, but it's still scary to see a truck passes just in few inches.
A lot of roaring vehicle, but also some stopped for me. A driver took a picture and then posted, and another driver stopped by and gave me a sandwich because he saw the picture on line. And another two guys who stopped by on the roadside visited me in the Kakwa recreation area and taught me how to drink in Canada(they claimed)--he first opened the small hole near the bottom of the beer can, suck the beer from the small hole and then pull it open. Let the air pressure push the beer and goes through the throat. I am not a beer fan but also not deny it. Just wish the driver didn't drink. They also wanted to give me the cans for bottle deposit money. I didn't take them because I would like to travel light and the best way to earn money is to spend it carefully.
Time to go to the national parks. I really hope the most daily hiking trails are accessible. 18320681_1330605513694250_6460329450914688238_o.jpg

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发表于 2017-9-4 14:39 显示全部帖子
支持好友精彩活动
1人点评 收起
发表于 2017-9-5 08:55 显示全部帖子
不羁的驴子 发表于 2017-8-11 14:15
04/09 Tok--Seaton roadhouse 約80英里
04/10 Seaton roadhouse--加拿大 Beaver creek 約30英里
(加拿大使 ...

请教下使用哪款帐篷
1人点评 收起
发表于 2017-9-5 09:51 显示全部帖子
鸿鹄义生兮 发表于 2017-9-5 08:55
[quote]不羁的驴子 发表于 2017-8-11 14:15
04/09 Tok--Seaton roadhouse 約80英里
04/10 Seaton roadho ...

Rhino二人帳 台灣國產的 大約4000新台幣,比較合用,推薦
发表于 2017-9-5 09:51 显示全部帖子
没头脑 发表于 2017-9-4 14:39
支持好友精彩活动

謝謝支援……
发表于 2017-9-5 09:56 显示全部帖子
Please read English version in the 2nd half of the article
5/10 Hinton--Jasper(賈斯柏) 70km, Pyramid lake and Patricia lake
5/11 In Jasper, visit Edith Cabell road, Beauvert lake, Edith lake, Maligne canyon(峽谷)
5/12 跟團去Maligne canyon, medicine lake
進入國家公園,當個正常的遊客吧。
怪事繼續發生,這裡先不談。美加國家公園的所有活動資訊透明,不像台灣健行的第一步驟是找地圖和紀錄,在這裡,官方網站就包括所有必要資訊,不論水上陸上,冬季夏季,各大城鎮的旅遊中心也是重要資訊來源。舉例來說,目前為初夏時節,要融不融的冰雪隱含雪崩危險(不一定是大規模的災難,開車開到一半忽然兩三公斤的積雪從山坡砸下來也算是雪崩),國家公園網站就詳列所有健行步道的積雪情形與雪崩風險。
而連結Jasper與Banff國家公園的Icefield parkway享負盛名,加拿大政府甚至計畫在該公路旁建造自行車道。我由西北向東南騎,首先抵達的是Jasper,這個城鎮的必遊景點包含城鎮周圍的眾湖泊(請參閱相片),Maligne峽谷,與Edith Cavell(山岳名,大眾化的健行步道分兩段,第一段到冰河與山岳展望點,第二段至七月才開放,通往山腳與苔原景觀),而通往步道入口的公路到五月下旬才會開放給機動車輛使用,但是自行車與健行滑雪等不受限制。
加拿大境內有許多機動車輛季節性開放但是自行車不受限制的道路,在初夏雪融時期但未對機動車輛開放之際,成為自行車的天堂。但是今年加拿大落磯山區雪況特別好,好到全球暖化真的像在說謊,使得例如最高海拔不到1900公尺的Edith Cavell公路上仍有許多積雪(日間溫度已達5-10℃)。
由主要公路岔路口開始,到步道口,Edith Cavell約14公里,平均坡度約4%,前4公里的髮夾彎路段稍陡,後段較緩,難易適中。第12公里處有原始的木屋(rustic hostel)供旅客過夜。因為積雪,我只能到12公里處的木屋,沿路的植被以含山毛櫸的針葉林為主。
我之後還有一段未對機動車輛開放的『單車天堂』,希望順利,積雪快融。
Strange people on the road, also in the town. Let me forget them and only see the friendly people when I am in Jasper and Banff n.p., where I should behave in a way of common tourists. Back to my home country, we have to find the information from someone wrote about the trail status before hiking(the resources from n.p. website is scarce), but the website of Canada n.p. specifies every information the common tourists need. So it should be easy to do hiking here, and a lot of the trails should accessible in mid May. Unfortunately, the snow accumulation in northern Rockies is much more than usual. I can't do every day easy hiking as I plan.
Icefield parkway, which connects Jasper and Banff national parks is one of the most famous highway for cyclists, and the Government of Canada plans to construct a paved cycle route along the highway. Other than the lakes besides town Jasper(Edith lake, Patricia lake, and Pyramid lake, etc.), and the guided Maligne canyon tour, I went to Edith Cavell road on 11th,May. The road ends at the trailhead of Cavell meadows, which is a famous trail in Jasper n.p. for watching glaciers and meadows and overlook My. Edith Cavell. There are several roads open seasonally for motorized vehicles but open year round for hikers and cyclists,Edith Cavell road is one of them. When snow leaves the road in late spring and the road is not open for motorized vehicles, the roads becomes the paradise for cyclists. Edith Cavell should be a paradise for me in mid May, but just I said one the previous paragraph, the high snow accumulation last winter makes this route still inaccessible on its final few kilometers. 14km in total, I could only made to milepost 12 km where a rustic hostel stands.
I have another cycling plan on the “cyclists paradise road”--the highest paved pass--the highwood pass in Kananaski county. I hope it will work out. 17991720_1332934416794693_6458547957938638051_o.jpg

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发表于 2017-9-16 14:49 显示全部帖子
Please read English version in the 2nd half of the article
5 /12 跟團去Maligne(重音在第二音節,g,e不發音)峽谷與湖泊,guided tour to Malygne canyon and lake
目前為止,美加生活有兩點有趣之處:
哪裡都可以用信用卡,即使是阿拉斯加公路上的偏僻設施,但是無線網路並非隨處可及。(麥當勞等連鎖速食店與加拿大最大的咖啡連鎖店Tim Honton等有免費無線網路,但它們只存在大城鎮。)
加拿大境內離開大城鎮常沒有手機訊號,尤其是北部人煙稀少的地區,一開始我以為是我手機sim卡問題(美國電信公司但是我購買可在加拿大與墨西哥漫遊的方案),但是當地人跟我說:不用重辦一張加拿大專用sim卡,因為出了城鎮誰都沒訊號。
偶爾跟團旅遊可以得到很多知識,而這類散客團則免去議價的困擾。
舉例而言,熊最大的敵人是寒冬,而它們不像某些動物在冬眠時會進入濱死狀態(呼吸心跳等生命徵相降到最低),熊只是『一直在睡』。因此它們冬眠時仍需要許多能量,這也是它們在夏季時最重要的工作之一-儲存能量。時間有限下,它們並不偏好
獵食,而是盡可能攝取隨手可得的食物來源。以北美黑熊棕熊而言,這類食物來源指的是漿果或鮭魚,而北極熊的是海豹,因此北美黑熊棕熊對人類不造成嚴重危險,但是進入北極熊領地則是人人攜帶獵槍,因為北極熊以肉食為主。
另外,有一種甲蟲會在松樹內繁殖並造成松樹死亡(照片中紅色松針的松樹)。而寒冷與森林大火則是這類甲蟲的自然天敵。但在全球暖化與人類抑制森林大火下,甲蟲的過度繁殖造成嚴重問題。
單車旅遊,跟團似乎多餘。但是我並不介意這筆額外支出,更何況加拿大國家公園管理處很注重旅遊品質,沒有三兩三,別想對外招客。
Something is quite new to me when living in Canada and USA.
First, credit card is widely accepted even in the middle of nowhere on the Alaska highway. But mobile signal is another story. I thought that I misunderstood something with my Roger roaming program when I found it didn't work in Yukon. But the locals told me not to buy a Canada mobile sim card package because no one is able to get any signal outside the town.
Back to today's story. I bought a guided tour which seems unnecessary to a bicycle travel. But I don't mind to spend the extra fees because I can learn more on the road and rest a bit more. And the quality is guaranteed in norh America n.p.. For example, the bear prefers to get whatever food he can get instead of hunt for it, just like human do. So the black and grizzly bear consumes most plants and don't see human as the food resources. But polar bear habitats in the place of plants scarce and seals are there most food resources. So we could just use the bear spray as protection but people who live in the habitats of polar bear need the rifle. Also how the nature forest fire does goog for the ecosystem. So many of classes I learned.
I travel in budget but not in poverty. Pay for something I really need but not to pay for luxury. That's the simplest way to cut the budget.
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发表于 2017-9-20 11:02 显示全部帖子
Please read the English version in the 2nd half of the article.
遇雨,多停留Jasper一天。原先預定的住宿(rustic hostel)無法退款,但是青年旅館(Jasper downtown hostel)可憐我給我折扣…。我當然知道單車旅行行程的不確定性,但是預定rustic hostel是必要的,否則進不去,以下解釋。
上篇介紹到連結賈斯柏(Jasper)和班夫(Banff)國家公園的icefield parkway,這條公路上的補給十分有限,但是住宿設施分布十分廣泛,包含露營場地、一般旅館與青年旅館,度假村,還有類似台灣山區避難山屋的rustic hostel(無水電,但是有煤氣供煮食),理論上除非熱門時節(如五月長週末假期),並不會有沒地方住的問題。
但是目前初夏許多露營場地未開放,我唯一的住宿選擇只剩下只存在這條路上三大城鎮(Jasper, lake Louise, Banff)的青年旅館(hostel)還有rustic hostel,而最大的問題是這些上鎖的rustic hostel無人看守,想進去得先取得密碼。預定完成後,透過e mail回寄簽名的切結書(住宿者需自備食物飲水與保暖裝備),確定從信用卡收到住宿款項後(一晚一人約28加幣),他們會以e mail告知門鎖密碼。
但是這代表住宿者不能突然出現在rustic hostel門口並要求入住,事先預定變成必須程序。而且別忘記在這種偏僻地方手機不太可能有訊號。像今天(5/13)我因雨多停留在Jasper一天,代表原先預定的rustic hostel必須延後,且無法退款(超過48小時前取消的期限)。
事實上,以單車旅行而言,由Jasper至lake Louise兩大城鎮之間(距離207公里)的rustic hostel名稱與距離如下,以價格來說,是絕佳的停留點。但在無人看守的時期,入住其中變成有點麻煩。
Hi beauty creek hostel 距離Jasper78公里
Columbia icefield center(著名冰河觀賞中心,有餐廳與付費設施前往觀賞冰河(全地形車)與天空步道,季節限定,目前已開放。
Hi Hilda hostel 距離Jasper100公里,著名短程健行路線Parker ridge起點
以下可由booking.com預定
Hi rampart hostel 距離Jasper124公里
Hi mosquito creek hostel 距離Jasper183公里
I stayed in Jasper one more day because of rain. It shouldn't be a problem but the rustic hostel I reserved is beyond the 48 hours free canceling period. The hostel owner I stay in Jasper(Jasper downtown hostel) heard the bad news and gave me discount for the unexpected delay. I know the uncertainty of bicycle travel but I have to book the rustic hostel or I can't go inside, which is explained in next paragraphs.
The icefield parkway, which connects Jasper and Banff n.p., has very limited facilities for groceries and basic supply. But there are numerous choices of accommodation on this road. There shouldn't be any problems of accommodation other than traveling in holidays. The rustic hostel, which supplies no water and electricity(but have gas for catering) is one of them.
For the season when most campground is still closed, the rustic hostel is my only option to overnight on the parkway. I don't think it's a good idea to camp on the parking lot on the roadside in the n.p.. But some of the rustic hostels are also unstaffed for the season, I have to reserve in advance to obtain the key code to enter them. That's why I booked them in spite of of the uncertainty of bicycle travel. I can't just show up and say” hi, I want to stay here" because the hostel is unstaffed. And don't forget there's hardly any mobile signal in the middle of nowhere, or near the rustic hostel.
The perfect distance between two hostels and reasonable price(about 28 dollar per capita per night) makes them perfect place for cyclists to stay overnight in summertime. But beyond the tourism season, the reservation process to obtain the key code makes it a bit tricky. The next are the distance of rustic hostels from Jasper.
Hi beauty creek hostel 78km
Columbia icefield center(tourism facility, restaurant and package tour to Columbia icefield and skywalk by all terrains.(operation seasonally.)
Hi Hilda hostel Jasper100km, trailhead of famous dayhike Parker ridge
Hi rampart hostel Jasper124km
Hi mosquito creek hostel Jasper183km
Rampart and mosquito creek rustic hostels could be reserved on booking.com.
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发表于 2017-9-20 11:04 显示全部帖子
05/14 Jasper--hi beauty creek hostel 85km
05/15 hi beauty creek hostel--Columbia icefield center--hi rampart hostel 57km
05/16 hi rampart hostel--hi mosquito creek hostel 64km
共206km
除了騎車,我幾乎走了所有必訪景點,包含哥倫比亞冰川全地形車(icefield adventure)與天空步道(Skywalke)(事先購買套票,套票內容還包含班夫(Banff)鎮纜車與班夫附近的湖泊Minnewanka遊輪(cruise),價格約180加幣,昂貴但是難得經驗,就不計較經費了。而沿路看到兩次黑熊,但是在看到它們前總是先看到大排長龍的車陣,安全大增。
健行時的單車擺放,如何預防失竊
這是最困擾我的問題,答案無解。rustic hostel主人說在國家公園鳥不生蛋的地方偷竊少見,但是野生動物『攻擊』單車族的行李時有所聞,我就親眼看到烏鴉攻擊我放空水瓶的塑膠袋,裡面並沒有食物!我健行時只是把單車鎖在固定物上,貴重物品和難以購得的工具帶走,剩下的行李綁在車上,幸運的尚未有失竊問題。有個方法我還沒試過,請求把行李放在旅客的車內,單車一樣綁在固定物上,或是嘗試把行李放在rustic hostel或旅館內(如著名的Parker ridge步道位於gi hilda hostel旁邊),但是有些hostel在非check-in和check-out時間是無人看守且上鎖的。
時間
最繁忙的時間約從六月下旬到九月上旬,這段約3個月的時間幾乎所有健行步道已完全融雪或僅有少數殘雪,幾乎所有旅遊設施都可及。若是你不那麼在乎健行,主要目的是單車旅遊,那麼五月中下旬與九月下旬十月上旬等離峰時段(不包含五月長週末假期)可以避免人潮,當然有些設施仍未開放,得事先查詢。

除了旅館與露營地,公路上有許多rustic hostel供旅客利用,名額有限(每間約僅能容納15-20人,尖峰時段得事先預定),有水源,有限的電力與網路,無淋浴設施(乾式廁所),有煤氣供煮食與暖氣,也有床單等,一晚約32加幣(非WH會員)。上篇已詳述各rustic hostel位置名稱,這裡不再重複。

Jasper到lake Louise之間並無所謂的『超級市場』,但是路上的餐廳,有些供應自助餐(buffet,約30加幣),算是相對價格合理的選擇,如 Columbia icefield center與Saskatchewan crossing的午餐,這也是團體旅遊的用餐地點,所以用餐之前請先確定不在意吵雜環境。這些旅遊設施也有基本的食物乾糧,但是價格偏高。
I almost stopped all the seesights on the road, and also bought the combo tour--icefield adventure(the all terrains take the tourists to the Columbia icefield), skywalk near Columbia icefield center, Banff gondola and Minnewanka lake cruise. The combo ticket is quite expensive(about 180 dollars), but once a life experience so just forget about the price and did it.
How to avoid the bicycle and bags be stolen when hiking?
It's an unanswered question. The rustic hostel owner told me that compares to theft, wildlife “attacks” bicycle bag is much often. I saw a raven attacked one of my plastic bag, which is only empty bottles inside. I locked up the bicycle with fixed objects, only took valuables and tools which hard to find with me. You could like to try ask the tourist to put the bags into their vehicle trucks or in the facility/hostel. Just remember the rustic hostel is unstaffed in some season and out of check-in and check-out time.
Time to go
The shoulder search(mid-May to mid June except the long weekend and mid September to early October) might be best time to cycle. You could expect less traffic. But the facility/ hiking trail access are also limited.
Accommodation
Other than logging and campgrounds, the rustic hostels may be the best alternatives. Tourists should reserve in peak season because of limited capacity(about 15-20people). The rustic hostels supply gas for cooking and heating, and also bedding. Limited water/electricity/wifi facility. Dry toilet and no shower available.
Food
There's no supermarket between Jasper and lake Louise. But you could find some pricey food supply in the facility. And there are some buffet in the facility, lunch in icefield center and Saskatchewan crossing for example. These are also the place for group tourists. Food is ok there but don't expect a cozy atmosphere.
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