| Please read the English version in the second half of this article. 06/05 Waterton--Chief mountain(美加邊界，boarder between Canada and US)--St.Mary約82公里 06/06 St.Mary--East glacier，來回冰川國家公園Saint Mary湖岸rising sun 由Waterton國家公園穿越美加國界，道路沿者草原起伏不定，加上強風，這並不是容易的路段。 Waterton國家公園內有個同名小鎮，也是所有補給設施所在。露營地在小鎮邊緣，就好比大安森林公園改建成大安森林露營地一般。『動物園』是網路對這個人潮川流不息但是又神奇的幾乎沒有失竊案件(除了沒保存好的食物被動物偷吃)的吵雜露營場地的稱呼(也真的能看到許多動物)。這種熱門得不到安寧的露營地絕不是久留之地，而Waterton園區內除了長健行路線之外，景點一兩天即可參觀完畢，因此Waterton國家公園也不像之前的班夫國家公園般，可以停留數週而不厭倦。 那就離開往南吧，貫穿冰川國家公園的著名50英里道路日升大道(going to the sun road)遲遲不全線開放(東西各開放一段，但是中間最高處Logan pass仍在除雪工程)。這條我一直想騎的道路，真的有機會在這趟旅行實行嗎？ 當然我還是可以東西各騎一段，但是無法由東騎到西會讓行程安排很麻煩。取名自西班牙語『山』的蒙大拿州有很多景觀道路，冰川國家公園內的日升大道只是其一，所以，邊走邊看囉，大不了使出『租車』絕技。 Going south through the Canada/US border from Waterton national park, the road wind up and down the prairie. Alone with the variable wind, the section is not an easy task. Watertown town, located in the Waterton N.p., gathered all the facilities, also the campground. “Zoo”, I read a blog describes the busy and popular campground. I can not get one moment quite time here but magically the unguarded place is quite secure, other than the improperly stored food. And all the seesight in Waterton, except the long hiking trails, can be visited in a couple of days. It seems that it doesn't mean anything to stay here for a whole week, like I did in Banff n.p. So let me keep my journey south, although the going to the sun road, which I really like to cycle, is not fully open. The 50 miles scenic road goes through the glacier national park, and is almost in the must-do lists of every cyclists. It's open in part of sections of east and west, but still closed for being plowed near the highest section--Logan pass, which means I could not go from east to west(or opposite direction) by the going to the sun road. Of course I could just cycle on the open section, but to arrange the trip is somewhat tricky. Is it possible to cycle on the road in this journey? There are still lots of scenic roads in Montana, the state named for its mountainous terrain. And the going to the sun road is one of them. Just go and see, I could rent a car to finish the unfinished, and I did it before.  Blaliston瀑布 Chief mountain，美加海關位於右側山稜 Crandell湖 middle Waterton湖 Two medicine湖 Waterton國家公園位於草原與山稜交界處 Waterton鎮區與跨越美加兩國的upper Waterton湖 冰川國家公園的Saint Mary湖 不斷翻越草坡的道路(Saint Mary)往南highway89 大角羊，就在步道旁 紅色峽谷(red canyon)，原本為沉積海底的泥板岩 紅色峽谷(red canyon) 歡迎來到蒙大拿州牌 露營區有趣的警告標誌— 在 Waterton Lakes National Park 露營區有趣的警告標誌 平行於連結主要公路與Waterton鎮區約9公里的自行車道 蜿蜒在脆弱石壁的山路(East glacier北方highway49)，而石壁下方是柔美草原 |
| Please read the English version in the second half of this article. 6/7 East glacier--Dupuyer 45英里 6/8 Dupuyer--大瀑布城 82英里 社區神奇的露營地(公共場所，不收費)，還有充電插座。 綿延數百公里的草原，很想在上面打滾，等一下，先看草皮上有沒有玻璃瓶碎片。 這次聞到酒味是在Dupuyer北方主要道路的休息區，離市區大約1英里。Dupuyer人口僅百餘人，但是有一間酒吧與餐廳，而酒味來自貨車司機！ 也許只是個例，但是在狹窄的路肩不斷閃躲玻璃碎片是進入美國才有的事情。車流稀少(蒙大拿人口僅百餘萬)的跨州89號公路(雙線道路)成為賽車場，大家不只把車速開到法律的極限(約70英里)，有些時候更開到車子的極限，於是路上看到許多土撥鼠屍體，我想不是因為美國的土撥鼠比加拿大的笨。今天風大但是仍在可接受的正常氣候範圍(約15-20公里/時)，但像之前颳輕度颱風，加上瘋狂駕車行為，我想還是乖乖躲起來。 往南過了黃石國家公園，我將騎幾條美國跨州自行『路徑』，網站協會只是把幾條車流量小的景觀道路串聯，而非興建自行車專屬的路徑，網址如下： https://www.adventurecycling.org/…/adventu…/western-express/ 希望到時候不再與狂風與暴走車共舞。 在怪風亂吹的情況下，一天居然能騎大約130公里，哈哈。 今天大瀑布城中午氣溫飆到31度，差點刷新紀錄(但是風大乾燥不太有燥熱感)。靠近山區有洪水特報(雪融得太快...)。然後，明天開始即將明天過後orz，包含冰川國家公園的高山地區又要下雪了，低海拔地區還是有洪水警報，但是原因是強雷雨。這代表我得找地方躲起來了，但是沒有hostel…。 I camp in the community park(free of charge) with power plug in Dupuyer. Lucky to find here. Endless grassy field. Want to lie down on it? Wait, check if there's any crushed glass bottle. Alcohol bottles, a lot of them on the roadside. I smelled alcohol again, and this time is in a rest area about 1 mile north of Dupuyer. Dupuyer is a small village, just more than a hundred residents. But there's a restaurant, a bar attached of course. The alcohol smell came from a truck driver, quite scary! Maybe just individual/rare cases, but I have to focus on dodging the smashed glass bottles scattered on the road shoulder in US, not in Canada. Moreover(I really hope that are another individual/rare cases), people tend to push the vehicle to the limit. Not only the speed limit by law(about 70 miles), but sometimes speed limit by the vehicle. The dual lanes highway no. 89 is somewhat a circuit, lies on a lot of corpses of marmot. Marmots bodies on the highway is not usual in Canada, and I don't think the reason is Canadian marmots are smarter. By no means of comparing two countries, as I wrote” hope they are individual cases”. But I plan to take the bike trail describes on the next web: https://www.adventurecycling.org/…/adventu…/western-express/ This is not a separate bike lane. They just connect some scenic and less traffic highways as a bike route. Hope they are individual cases, not not to be seen on the bike trail. 百年後的嘉明湖(誤) 神奇的社區免費公共設施兼露營場地，有充電插座 小鎮Browning |
| Please read the English version in the second half of this article. 6/10 Monarch--White sulphur springs(白硫磺溫泉鎮)，騎車43英里，搭車10英里，ride 43 miles, hitchhike 10 miles 6/9下半天到6/10日騎的是景觀道路--kings hill byway，屬於美國州際公路89號一部分，文尾會介紹。先簡單說今天發生什麼事。 明天過後的天氣將持續到下週二，週末還不算是最嚴重的。首先登場的是不穩定的天氣與大降溫。今天早上還有陽光，下午開始下貓下狗。第一陣雷雨沒多久，我在鳥不生蛋的地方找到一間酒吧躲雨，我和老闆娘和兩個朋友聊得很高興，老闆娘還幫我煮了咖啡(咦？在酒吧喝咖啡)，缺點是這裡禁吃外食，但是又不供應食物。再出發沒多久的第二陣混雜冰雹的雷雨發生在只見牛馬的大草原，然後好心人停車載我。 之後我住進別人家嗎？沒有，我被載到旅館。這是以溫泉聞名的小鎮，週末沒預定旅館的下場就是任人宰割。昨晚的旅館(某種程度上位於鳥不生蛋的地方)有早餐，有室內溫水spa與游泳池，還有單車族專屬折扣！今天嗎…，算了，兩場大雷雨只淋到半場就該偷笑了。 接下來簡介kings hill byway。這條景觀道路屬於美國跨州公路89號的一部分，北起大瀑布城東邊的Armington junction，南至我今天住的白硫磺溫泉鎮 (white sulphur springs)，總長71英里。道路經過Helena-Lewis and Clark national forest，屬於美國森林局管轄的森林保護區，Helena是蒙大拿首府，Lewis and Clark是19世紀初美國第一組由東北探索到西北太平洋岸的領導人。由北至南，道路先沿者Belt小溪上行，接下來高繞Belt小溪的峽谷路段會穿過平坦的草原(真的很平)，越過第一個海拔約1600公尺的高點後，道路景觀轉為深壑的峽谷地形，並陡下3英里至小鎮Monarch。之後道路繼續上溯Belt小溪，12英里至另一個小鎮Neihart的平緩路段是人口最集中的地區，許多優美的民房依山傍水而建。接下來道路坡度漸陡，再10英里到海拔7393英呎(2464公尺)的越稜點，之後植被由森林逐漸轉為草原，最後抵達白硫磺溫泉鎮。 I rode a scenic byway--kings hill byway in the two days. I will describe the highway briefly in the last section of the article. Let me tell you what happened today. The “after tomorrow” weather is lasting. The most harsh weather condition will occur on next Tuesday, and the weekend shouldn't be very bad, although I could feel the temp is dropping. But I encountered two thunderstorms today. I found a bar in the middle of nowhere to escape from the downpour. The aged female owner, her two friends and I had a good chat there. The owner even made coffee for me(A coffee in the bar!) But I can't have my own food there, and the bar doesn't supply any food other than liquid bread. I “was picked-up” soon after the second thunderstorm, which accomplish”ice tubes” came out from the sky. I didn't end up the driver's home. I was sent to a hotel, and to stay in the tourist town( white sulphur springs is famous for its curative effect) without reservation means no much choices, and also means to me to PAY UP! I got a hotel last night with breakfast, hot spa, and cyclists-only discount. Nothing in the hotel(other than the breakfast) today. The next briefly introduced kings hill byway. It belongs to the US highway 89. North ends in Armington junction, east of Greatfalls. South ends in White sulphur springs. The 71 miles byway goes through Helena-Lewis and Clark national forest, named after the capital of Montana-Helena, and the first pioneers who travel from east of US to Pacific northwest in 19 century- Lewis and Clark. Ride from north, the byway switches along Belt creek, and soon goes up to a grassy land for bypassing the deep canyon of Belt creek. After passing through the first summit(about 1600 meters), the scenery becomes steep valley, and the road winds down 3 miles to Monarch, a lovely small town alongside Belt creek. The next 12 miles to another town-Neihart, along the creek is most densily populated section, and many characteristic houses built by the creek. Then another 10 miles uphill to the highest point of the byway, which is 7393 feet(2464 meters). Then almost all the way downhill to White sulphur springs, and forest gradually gives way to another endless prairie. 补充： 冰河國家公園應該是掰了，這裡解釋一下有關國家公園開放的常見問題，官方網站有更詳細解釋 冰河國家公園是全年開放嗎？ 是，所謂的封閉僅對機動車輛。除非惡劣氣候等特殊因素不封閉。冬季滑雪，夏季健行，任何合法活動，只要你行。 那機動車輛的開放時間為何呢？ 不同公路有不同開放時間。最著名也是唯一貫穿冰河國家公園的50英里日升大道(going to the sun road)冬季不除雪，約四月才開始除雪工程，一般需要十週才能完工並完全對機動車輛開放(除雪好一段開放一段，而不是完全除完雪才開放)。國家公園會隨時更新除雪與開放狀況。一般說來，日升大道對機動車輛開放時間約6月中到9月中，時間不一定，視除雪進度。 他們怎麼除雪呢，困難何在？ 日升大道最高點為Logan pass海拔雖不及2100，但是冬季積雪可達4公尺。除雪工程分兩隊，分別由東西兩側向Logan pass除雪，東邊雖然距離Logan pass較近，但是Logan pass東側是大雪場，一般西側工程團隊會先通到Logan pass。 那自行車的在日升大道的管制為何？ 自行車不屬於機動車輛，所以全年開放，前提是你過的去，而從六月中旬到美國勞動節，部分路段在尖峰時段禁止自行車通過。在除雪工程期間，為了避免影響工程，道路會對所有非工程人員封閉。也就是說，雖然自行車理論上可全年通行，但是實際上仍視除雪進度而定。另外，在週末假日等非工作期間，自行車也是可以自由通行的。而自行車可以通行的距離(前面提過，除雪完多少通行多少)一般較機動車輛遠，但是在即將除雪到Logan pass的最後階段，東側僅能通行到Siyah bend，西側是the loop。 日升大道騎自行車的最佳時間為何？ 若不在意騎全程，除雪多少就騎多少，五月中旬過後的氣候已十分合適。若要騎全程，最佳時間是六月中旬前(未在尖峰時段管制自行車)，東西兩個工程團隊都除雪除到Logan pass之後的這段非工作時間(未完工前即使東西兩個工程團隊都通到Logan pass，工作時間管制仍在)，大約是六月上旬週末。但是，有時候除雪工程落後，無法在六月上旬就讓自行車東西橫貫騎行，就像今年…。 7393英呎(2464公尺)的 隘口 Bynum的恐龍研究中心與展覽館，蒙大拿州發現過許多恐龍化石 Monarch小鎮與我住的唯一旅館 隘口往南路段 白硫磺溫泉鎮，雷雨空檔，前面那座山的天氣… 大瀑布城 大瀑布城的rainbow瀑布，一樣改建成水力站 大瀑布城的河岸自行車道，連結以上景點 大瀑布城的湧泉 第一高點往南的溪谷地形 另一個已經幾乎名存實亡的小鎮Bynum 露營過夜的小鎮Dupuyer，有餐廳酒吧禮物店卻沒有雜貨店 貼文提到的道路高繞Belt小溪的峽谷 位於密西西比河畔的大瀑布城(great falls)的red eagle瀑布，已改建成水力站 小鎮Monarch到Neihart之間的溪谷 |
| 6/11 白硫磺溫泉鎮(white sulphur springs))--大廷伯(big timber) 94英里(94 miles) 累死人的一天。 原本計畫不是這樣的。89號景觀跨州公路接到跨州高速公路後，就該找地方過夜，但是實際情形有點失控。 先說明跨州高速公路(interstate，就像台灣的國道高速公路)對於自行車的規範。大部分州與大城市(例如紐約舊金山等)都禁止自行車騎上跨州高速公路，但是有許多例外，搞清楚這些規範不容易，但是卻容易現場判斷。 相信我，自行車絕對是不會想騎上跨州高速公路，即使有寬闊路況良好的路肩，除非你很喜歡看橫死街頭的動物，蒙大拿速限80英里(約130公里)還算低的。但是在沒有替代道路的情況，或是跨州高速公路取代原有道路，自行車只能騎上跨州高速公路，這些狀況並不會禁止自行車使用。所謂替代道路指的是平行道路，而非需要翻山越嶺繞ㄧ大圈的道路。這些平行提到道路的名稱往往是：frontage road或old U.S xx(舊美國xx號公路)等。 蒙大拿是少數允許自行車使用跨州高速公路的州。但是我還是盡量使用平行道路。從89號景觀道路岔路口到大廷伯27英里，跨州高速公路沿者黃石河興建，沿路有許多釣魚場地(fushing access site)提供露營，但是它們無人看守，而露營費一晚18美金，但是我最小面額鈔票是50美金，而且找不到地方換錢。我不想知道不付錢的下場。 最後在晚上8點來到大廷伯，離日落時間還有約1小時半，最近的私人露營區離城鎮中心3英里。我決定先吃晚餐再過去。在大約9點到露營場地後，閘門已放下，有個牌子寫到： 『夜已深，我們關門了，閘門旁邊的青草地隨便你用。』 夜已深個頭，太陽都還沒下山。只不過住免錢合法的也好。約半小時後，有輛露營車來了，駕駛跟我一樣傻眼。我把手機借他聯絡露營場地主人，電話有通但是閘門還是沒開。有些年紀的露營車駕駛是『網路導遊(internet travel guide)』，工作內容大概是上網po照片寫遊記 等。我們翌日早上在咖啡店聊了一會兒。新朋友和免費露營地，全因為我遲到，因禍得福， 接下來兩天是明天過後的重頭戲，找了旅館乖乖躲起來不出門囉。接下來由號稱美國最美公路的熊牙公路(beartooth highway)前往黃石國家公園。 94 miles in one day, exhausted. The plan wasn't this, but the plan went south with me. I should find a campsites after the junction of highway 89 and interstate. But I failed. Let me briefly introduce the regulations for bicycles on the interstate highway. The thumb of the rule is “cyclists should avoid using the interstate highway.”. And it's forbidden in most cases. Believe me, you don't want to cycle on the interstate highway, even on the well-maintained wide shoulder. Unless you like to see “dogs or mammots pancake” on the way. But there are still many exceptions. Montana is one of the states allows cyclists to use the interstate highway. Also, when alternative road is absent(“ alternative road” means a paved road parallels the interstate, not the one the cyclist need to detour for mush distance longer. The alternative road is usually name frontage roads or old road, and could be searched on google map. Frontage road of Interstate 90, which I rode in most of time after the junction of highway 89, built along Yellowstone river, which lots of fishing access site provide primitive campground nearby. I found one unstaffed, but I don't have smaller note for the 18 dollars camping fee. No access to exchange for smaller banknotes, either. I don't want to know the consequences of failing to pay. I arrived Big Timber on 8 p.m., and nearest campground is located 3 miles from downtown. I decided to have supper before heading there. I arrived at the campground at around 9:10pm, it was already gated for the night, but the sun was still above the horizon(the sunset time is about9:30pm.) I also saw a signpost to the late arrivers to overnight on the grassy field next to the gate. A free and legal campsite, why not? A RV came at around 9:30pm. The driver was also suprised that the campground was gated. I lent him my mobil to call the campground office. The call was answered but he still have no accesse to get in. I had a little chat with the RV driver, also a internet tour guide next morning. A new friend and a free campground, these good things happened because I was too late to arrive, because something that should be a disaster. After the camping day, comes two days of winter severe weather conditions. I stayed in Big Timber for this two days. After that, go to Yellowstone national park by beartooth highway, the one of the most scenic road in USA. 黃石河岸釣魚場地，許多供露營 露營地點，在私人露營地門口外，另有一露營車駕駛不得其門而入 |
| 6/14 大廷伯--雷德洛治 90英里 Big Timber--Red lodge 90miles 6/15 在雷德洛治 In Red lodge 6/14又騎了兩份的距離，最近常這樣，一天騎兩天距離，然後做一休一。但是這段不是太困難，前半段沿者黃石河平行跨州高速公路是大順風。一直到約最後30公里才是很惱人的在草坡無窮盡陡上陡下。另外避免再被私人露營地拒之門外，我趕在8點半抵達。這是十分熱心的家庭式經營露營地，有廉價的小木屋，價格與青年旅館相仿(有暖氣與插座，無網路與棉被，共用衛浴)。 進入正題，為啥今天沒走？ 早上7點正打算離開露營地時，老闆娘請我喝咖啡。他們正常商店開門時間是8點半，而早於開門時間的咖啡改變一切。 我昨天晚上找到一份資料，告知熊牙公路預計週五某時間開放。那是我不以為意，想說週四如期前進。號稱全美國最美麗的熊牙公路，一整年只開放約4個月，在開應該開放的旅遊旺季封閉，影響許多靠旅遊業維生的居民與觀光客，也包括我。而封閉的原因不只是雪，還有人禍，之後說明。 老闆娘聽了我的猶豫，我也聽了老闆娘對於道路封閉如何影響生意的抱怨。她建議我打電話確認，避免到了山頂因為積雪進退兩難。 官方機構只得到罐頭式回應，最後在老闆娘建議下，我打給『世界最高商店』，位於隘口西方8英里，店員跟我說：別想了，積雪很深，等除雪吧。 那為什麼道路封閉有部分的人禍原因？用時間線說明。首先要了解68英里的熊牙公路跨越兩州，東段是蒙大拿州，西段包含隘口是懷俄明州。 6/13 下雪了。下了一整天，但是溫度不夠低，山頂積雪約10-15公分。 6/14 放晴了。蒙大拿州道路團隊乖乖除雪到州界。懷俄明的除雪到『世界最高商店』附近。留下約12英里未除雪。 6/15 到底為啥不把工作做完？全鎮的居民和不知何去何從的觀光客都在問，也許不是他們的錯，但是兩州的道路團隊應該共同努力讓道路暢通，而不是一邊除到州界，一邊除雪到最後有人煙的地方，是吧。『他們在除雪了，明天應該會全程開放』，官方答案如出一轍。對我而言，明天必過隘口，否則明晚的陰雨天氣可能又會埋下變數。 I rode the distance in Jun.14 which I usually split the distance to 2 days. It was not hard to ride 90 miles in that day because of the tail wind in the first half section, which is flat along Yellowstone river. And the difficulty section is only in the final 20 miles, rolling grassy hills with lots of steep up and down. I made to the private campground at 8:30pm in order not to be rejected to overnight there(which happened in Big Timber as the two post before.). It is a welcoming campground with budget cabins(with heat and plugs,no WiFi or bedding, non self-contained). Back to the topic, why I am still in Red lodge today? I got a information about road will reopen at sometime in Friday. But I didn't pay attention to it and thought of keep going today(Thursday). And the closure of Beartooth highway, which is also called “the most beautiful road of America”, influence lots of people, including tourists and townspeople who live on tourism, and me. The road is only open about 4 months in one year. Road closure when it should open and tourists floods to here, no way. Why the road is closed? There is some human factors other than the weather, described later. I was at the private campground office door at around 7 am. The manager invited me a coffee. They should open in 8:30. And “coffee earlier than expected open time” change my plan. The manager heard my concerns about keep going or stay here today, the I heard the complaints about how road closure hurts the campground business from the manager. She suggested me to make calls to understand how many snows on the peak to avoid being stuck there. I called to public service and no surprisingly, I got nothing information constructively. The manager suggested me to phone the “top of the world store”, I got something reliable: Don't think about it, you cannot pass the peak before the road is plowed. So where is the human factor of road closure? You have to understand beartooth highway crosses two states: east part in Montana and west part (including the beartooth pass) in Wyoming. Let's see the timeline: June 13: Snowed almost all day but not so cold. Snow accumulation is about 3-5 inches. Jun 14: Sunny and warm. Montana road crew plowed to the state line. Wyoming crew plowed to long lake, near top of the world store. Left about 12 miles unplowed. Jun 15:Everyone is wondering why they didn't plow the whole road. Maybe it's not their fault. But the two states road crew should work together to open the road, instead of just doing their part, that's what most people think. Whatever, we are told they are plowing the last section. But we still know the Friday(Jun 16) night might be another snow day. To me , I have to pass the peak, and not wait until to next possible storm in Friday 雷德洛治街景 最後30公里的不斷陡草坡上下，十分煩人 |
| 熊牙公路路線概說：東終點雷得洛治，西邊起點黃石公園門口。全長68英里，次高點夏季滑雪中心3273公尺位於43英里，最高點熊牙隘口3337公尺位於38英里，世界最高商店位於30英里，Cooke city位於3英里。 6/16 雷得洛治--夏季滑雪訓練中心(海拔)--搭車到Cooke city 騎車25英里，搭車40英里 6/17 Cooke city來回熊牙隘口，單程35英里 兩天爬了兩次熊牙公路！ 6/16可以和干卓萬與比亞毫列為三大慘案，我必須攔車離開隘口附近的狂風高山草原。然後隔天天氣放晴，我不甘心的再騎回熊牙隘口，補完6/16因為天氣不佳未騎的路段。熊牙公路68英里本來是很單純的一個大上坡和一個大下坡，結果因為天氣狀況，6/16日我騎了東邊的上坡，攔車到西邊距離公路起點只有3英里的Cooke city，然後6/17騎了西邊的大上坡，等於兩天騎了兩個大上坡！ 6/16出發前就預期天氣不會太好，但是避免因為高山下雪再被困在雷得洛治數日，我在6/15決定若是公路在早上開放就如期出發。為了等到公路開放的確切消息，出發時間拖到9點30。早上天氣還ok，但是過了州界(也就是之前道路封閉路段)進入高山草原，狀況急轉直下，雨雪交加不是最糟的，風大到我無法騎車，甚至連站立都有困難，勉強牽車2英里到夏季滑雪訓練中心，本來想說也許可以在這裡過夜(非正式旅館)，翌日再前行，但是我被告知『這裡沒空間過夜。』 滑雪訓練中心海拔3273公尺，海拔已經接近熊牙隘口的海拔3337公尺，兩地距離5英里，相隔一個草坡淺谷，再之後路程幾乎一路下坡，若不是強風輕而易舉。但是在不確定無遮蔽的狂風草坡的距離，加上雨勢越來越大，我必須攔車找貴人了。 這個家庭是我這幾天遇到的第二個貴人家庭，另一個家庭請看相片。他們先載我到距離滑雪訓練中心13英里，隘口8英里的『世界最高的商店』。而被告知世界最高商店已無空房後，我有些掙扎的決定再往搭車前到Cooke city(原本計畫是在商店住一晚，翌日天氣好可返回隘口之後再慢慢前行)，這也代表我似乎得搭車走完大部分的熊牙公路，加上上坡騎車，下坡搭車的反常運作模式，但是天氣狀況只能如此。商店老闆還一直安慰我說：你沒損失太多。當然我不會損失太大，隔天天氣好就往回騎了！ 熊牙公路的美，主要在於它提供三種截然不同的景觀，從雷得洛治開始，首先沿者rock 小溪蜿蜒6英里，接下來道路在風化的落石區髮夾灣上坡，7英里抵達州界後，道路景觀變成像武嶺的高山草原，最後道路髮夾灣下坡到有三個直到七月才全部融化的湖泊的冰原，經過世界最高商店後，道路再度進入森林，著名的熊牙湖已在不遠處。 Important mileage on Beartooth highway: Start point is Yellowstone gate on the east side, ends in Red lodge on the west side. 68 miles in total distance, summer ski and snowboard camp(second highest point:3273m) on 43 milepost. Highest point beartooth pass on 38 milepost Top of the world store on 30 mp Cooke city on 3 mp 6/16 Red lodge--summer ski and snowboard camp--hitch hike to Cooke city, cycle 25 miles, car ride 40 miles 6/17 Cooke city to Beartooth round trip, 35 miles single way Two long distance climbs of Beartooth highway in two days! Miserable day on June16, and I had to hitchhike to leave the windy grassy highland near the pass. But I am not willing to give up riding on the beartooth highway, so I went back to pass on Jun. 17! The 68-miles beartooth highway should be a pure long distance uphill and a downhill, but I indeed rode TWO UPHILLS. I rode from Red lodge, the east end of highway on June 16, hitchhike near the pass to Cooke city, just 3 miles to the west end of the highway. And did a round trip to the pass from the Cooke city on the next day. Drizzle as expected on June 16, but I decided to hit the road after hear the reopening of beartooth highway, in order not to be stuck in Red lodge for more days because of road closure arises from the coming snowy weather in mountains. It wasn't too bad in the morning, but after crossing the stateline and went into grassy highland, it became too windy to ride. Strong gust goes with sleet, I walked the bicycle for 2 miles to the summer ski and snowboard camp, where a chance of informal accommodation and a warm bed, but I was told that there is no space for me to overnight. The ski camp is where I met the helpful family. They took me to the top of the world store, 13 miles away from the ski camp, where I planned to spend the night and finish/enjoy the last section of beartooth highway on the next day. But no vacancy there. I struggled but still decided to take the free and friendly ride to Cooke city. Lucky to have the 40 miles ride, but I passed the most part of beartooth highway in less than 1 hour, and I didn't have any time to stop for any scenery. That's why I decided to go back to the pass the other day. I don't want to miss any part the “most beautiful highway in US". The beauty of beartooth highway is tourists could expect diverse scenery in short distance. Starting from east end of lovely town, Red lodge, Rock valley, where forest and campgrounds is located, is substituted by treeless switchbacks section, where is also vulnerable to falling rocks. After the 7 miles switchbacks, the road crosses the stateline and goes into grassy highland, and the beartooth pass is only 7 miles away. Leave the pass and keep going to west, tourists will see 3 beautiful lakes, which is only totally melt until July. After short break in the top of the world store, tourists will go into another forest/valley, and scenic beartooth lake is just few miles away. PS： 在雷得洛治的pear’s私人露營地遇到第一組貴人，老闆家庭不但邀我共進早晚餐，還帶我到有錢朋友家玩保齡球(他的朋友本來養北美野牛，有一天挖到石油，之後改養名車，在家裡建兩條保齡球道也不稀奇了)。對我來說，除了食宿的恩惠，與本來是陌生人的家庭打成一片，有說有笑，如上一段的對話，還有上一篇貼文提到的關於道路封閉的討論等，都難得可貴。 "Why the so-called Cheese cuisine is defined as deep fried everything?” 『為什麼這裡的中式餐廳，就是把所有的食材拿去熱炒？』 從風雨中拯救我的一家人 熊牙公路，Rock小溪與露營區 熊牙公路，隘口 熊牙公路，隘口西側髮夾灣，與路上眾多的機車騎士 熊牙公路，隘口西側髮夾灣 熊牙公路，隘口西側路景 熊牙公路，隘口西側雪牆 熊牙公路，東側(雷德洛治)髮夾灣與工程車 熊牙公路，雷德洛治路段 熊牙公路，平臺即為上張照片的展望平臺 熊牙公路，森林帶前的草坡 熊牙公路，西側接近Cooke city路景 熊牙公路，熊牙湖— 在 熊牙公路，熊牙湖西側 熊牙公路，展望平臺 |
| 6/18 Cooke city--Mammoth 6/19 Mammoth--Norris--canyon village--Norris 6/20 Norris--old faithful--grand village 6/21 Grande village--snow mountain campground 6/22 snow mountain campground--Jackson hole Please read the English version in the second half of this article. 黃石公園不只有火山景觀，峽谷、北美最大的內陸湖－黃石湖等，地貌十分多變。而火山景觀ˋ主要分布在西側區域，從Mammoth到西南側的地標－老忠實噴泉。這裡不加細談。接下來要討論的是住宿問題。 撇開昂貴且許久之前就搶購一空的旅館，露營地是多數旅客的首選，多數露營地不可預定，先到先贏。那這些先到先贏的露營地什麼時候客滿呢？早上10點之前，大家當日是一大早先去佔位置啊。 這對非使用機動車輛的單車客與健行者造成困擾，所以有了 『hiker/biker campsites』， 顧名思義就是為單車客與健行者保留的營地。他們不用和其他車輛搶位置，到了營地保證有營位。當然這也代表營位共享，若單車客與健行者太多的話。 但是與其說是這些人的特權，不如說是適應下的產物。這些人有『隨地亂露營』的傾向，這在國家公園內非常危險，除了野生動物，黃石公園到處都是地熱區，不小心是會被煮熟的。 避免他們亂露營，最好的方法除了保證他們不會因為營位客滿被請到下一個露營地，價格還必須保證滿意，單車客/健行者營位一日5美金。 當然還是因地制宜，黃石公園道路崎嶇，不是隨便想騎去那裡就可以到哪裡，但是南邊緊鄰的大提頓國家公園多數道路位於Jackson湖畔，單車客可以騎乘較遠的距離，加上最大的Colter bay露營地容納量大，單車客與健行者露營地相對缺乏。 這裡發生一件有趣的事。我抵達Colter bay時間約下午4點，向資訊中心確定距離8英里的snow mountain露營地雖然客滿但是有單車客與健行者露營地，我還是可以在那邊露營。結果差點被請回來Colter bay露營地，後來營主可憐我，讓我在snow mountain露營地的回收站露營。 大部分的駕駛都很友善，例如我因為雷陣雨與爆胎而受困在分水嶺隘口附近時，好心載我一程的年輕夫妻，還有停車問我要不要啤酒…。但是他們坐上駕駛座偶爾會變個樣，如同在駕駛北美野牛而不是駕車，甚至有駕駛追逐野牛，使得一對父子檔受困在野牛陣中。 而這對父子檔也是讓我最驚訝的組合之一。有群年輕人騎大分水嶺路線，顧名思義路徑盡可能接近落磯山脈，不論路況與坡度。這是困難的路線，但是有充足準備仍然可行。上年紀的婦女單車騎士停下拍照與聊天。但是長途單車旅行找伴已經困難，何況是與自己的家人，以父子檔為例，一下是一個忙於學業，一下是另一位忙於事業；現在是一位太小，過幾年變成另一位太老，你懂得。 雖然道路崎嶇狹窄與川流不息的車潮，在黃石公園騎車不算困難。而且有兩個優點，除了上一篇提到的單車者/健行客露營地外，單車理論上可以亂停，不必在著名景點附近排隊等停車位。此外，單車慢行也讓旅客有更多時間欣賞沿路風景，更多機會看到園區招牌動物－熊！ Other than volcano scenery, such as Mammoth hot springs and the landmark--old faithful geyser. There are still lots of to see in Yellowstone, including canyons and the biggest freshwater lake, Yellowstone lake, in north America. The volcano scenery is mainly located at west side and will not to be described here. The next is talking about accommodation: The hiker/biker campsites. The hotels/lodges are expensive and tourists have to book it several weeks/months before. So the campground is more logical choice of accommodation. Most of the campground is first arrive, first served, and is usually filled up in early morning. This posts huge problem to hikers/bikers, who travel without motorized vehicles and cannot go anywhere as they wish. The hikers/bikers campsites are preserved in every campground in Yellowstone for this matter. Because this arrangements are for sure that hikers and cyclists have place to stay even the campground is full, they are expected to share the site if too many hikers and cyclists want to camp there. But I don't say the hikers/bikers campsites is a privilege. I would say it a product of adapting. Hikers and cyclists are tend to camp in the undesigned campground, which the behavior is quite dangerous in national park. You might have a well-done cyclist in Yellowstone because he went into hyperthermal area accidentally. In order to avoid them to camp randomly, the park rangers must assure hikers and cyclists have a place to stay and the price is desirable. 5 dollars in most campground in Yellowstone. Yellowstone has the standard biker/hiker campsites. But grand Teton national park, which is south and adjacent to Yellowstone, has a slightly different policy. The park road is hilly in Yellowstone, but not in grand Teton, where the road is flat and close to Jackson lake. Cyclists could paddle further in this case. Even more, the campground in Colter bay has large accommodation and usually filled up in the evening. That's why cyclists and hikers cannot expect a biker/hiker campsite in every campground in Teton. And something interesting happened there. I arrived in Colter bay in grand Teton around 4 pm. I checked with the staff in information center that snow mountain lodge campground has overflow area for biker/hikers, and I could camp there even it's full. But I was almost asked back to Colter bay by the staff in snow mountain campground! I ended up to camp in the recycle area in snow mountain campground, 11 dollars per night. when I was stuck near the grand divide pass because of thunderstorm and getting a flat tire. And a driver stopped to invite me a beer...NO, OF COURSE. But some drivers seem to a different people when they behind the wheel, a cyclist was stuck in the buffalo jam the buffalos was frightened by a driver chasing them. CHASING THE BUFFALO, ARE YOU OUT OF YOUR MIND? The cyclists, father and son, is one of the most pair amazed me. A group people do the great divide trail, which is designed to” chase” the Rockies mountains no matter of the road condition, many sections of unpaved secondary and dirt forestry road on the bicycle trail. The trail is tough but still doable if fully prepared. Aged woman who stopped by and had a little chat with me. But it's difficult to find a company in the long term journey, even more difficult to have a family member to join. A father and son for example in most cases, one time the son is busy at studying and another time father is busy at working. Or one time son is too young and another time father is too old. You could understand that. Although hilly, narrow and heavily traveled, it's not so difficult to cycle in Yellowstone. And there are more advantages to cyclists other than the hiker/biker campsites. The cyclist could park the bicycle almost wherever they want, they don't need to wait in line for a parking space near popular sights. Also cyclists have more time for enjoy the scenery and...more chance to see a bear! mammoth溫泉設施區的elk mammoth溫泉遠景 北美野牛草原，位於東北側黃石公園 觀熊車陣 黃石公園大峽谷 黃石公園大峽谷下瀑布(lower falls) 黃石湖日落 位於老忠實噴泉(old faithful)與黃石湖之間的道路，翻過大分水嶺(落磯山脈) 熊，攝於東北側黃石公園 越過分水嶺後因雷陣雨加上爆胎，被好心人載下山 |
| Please read the English version in the second half of this article. 6/22 snow mountain lodge campground(位於大提頓國家公園)--Jackson hole 30英里 6/23 Jackson hole--返回大提頓國家公園的Moran岔路口--Togwotee隘口--lava mountain lodge，搭車約30英里，騎車35英里 以我的路線，Jackson hole是不在路線的『盲腸』，但是一方面我想遊覽整個大提頓國家公園，另一方面順便在路上認識的朋友，Frankie。 我約在半個月前在冰河國家公園東門口的Saint Mary鎮偶遇Frankie與他的女友。他們好心的留下聯絡方式並邀我做客。他們的住處並不好找，我靠資訊中心的幫忙才找到。 除了休息洗衣，Frankie解開我長久以來的疑惑。在美加的餐廳，支付侍者15-20%的小費是必須的，但是這樣算起來侍者的日薪不是很可觀嗎？ 『所以我目前很滿意侍者與調酒員的工作，這個制度源於之前的侍者收入來源幾乎靠小費，但是現在的侍者往往有最低工資，加上小費的收入的確很可觀，我會把小費分給廚師與其他工作人員。而且我的老闆了解我們選擇在這裡(國家公園就在隔壁)生活是為了享受人生，所以排班休假自由。 的確，他去年放了一個月的長假，而工作時間是下午4點到11點，白天他可以從事各種戶外活動。 隔日，他帶我體驗paddle boat，站在充氣船上划行，不太好平衡，我跌落水中一次。若慎選從事場所，例如我們選擇水深僅及腰的湖泊，這種運動並不危險，台灣四面環海，擁有廣大的水域面積，但是水上運動極不盛行，而身為自行車製造大國，居然沒有場地車練習場也沒有像樣的山徑自行車道，固中原因，我想大家心知肚明。 無論如何，感謝他的招待，玩完paddle boat後，他載我到離我當日目的地僅35英里的Moran岔路口，從這裡我得騎乘25英里，翻閱海拔落差約900公尺的隘口，之後下行10英里到lava mountain lodge，這間旅館有簡易木屋，屋內設施有充電插座與暖氣，但是無被單，一晚基本費率30美金，十分划算，但是隔日就沒那麼幸運了。 6/22 snow mountain lodge campground(in grand Teton national park)--Jackson hole 30 miles 6/23 Jackson hole--go back to Moran junction in grand Teton by car--Togwotee pass--lava mountain lodge, car 30 miles, bike 35 miles According to my route, I didn't have to travel to Jackson hole, but in one hand I would like to travel the grand Teton national park, and also visit the friend, Frankie, who I met/know in Saint Mary about half month ago, east gate of glacier national park. He left his contract info and invited me to his house. And I did. His residence is a bit tricky to find, and I had to ask for detail direction from tourists center. Other than took a good rest and did laundry, Frankie answered the question for long to me. That's, we have to pay around 15-20% tip in restaurants/cafe, and it sounds the waiters could have a huge income from the tip. “That's why I choose the job as a waiter and also a bartender.” Frankie answered. Waiters were used to be underpaid and that's why the tips system developed. But most waiters nowadays are protected by law and they indeed could have huge income considering the tips. “I sometimes give some tips to the chefs They also work hard but no tip for them, kind of unfair. “And another good thing about my job is that my boss understand the people work here is for the life(national park is just nearby). So we could have long vacation and the boss could transfer some waiters from nearby restaurant.”. He had one month vacation last year and many short terms of holidays. Great job, right? He works from 4pm to 11pm, so he could do outdoor activities in the daytime. He took me to play paddle boat the next day. It's my first experience and a bit difficult to keep the balance and I fell into water once. Seems a risk activity, so he chose the lake only 1 meter depth in average. Taiwan is an island and has large water area, but I don't see much marine sports in Taiwan. Moreover, Taiwan exports tons of thousands of bicycles every year, but there's no velodrome or mountain bike trail. MXT is kind of a sport of forbidden. People tend to avoid the dangerous activities, that's nature. But we could control the risk in many ways. Sadly, authorities concerned in Taiwan and some people there tend to prohibit the “dangerous” sport. Hiking trail in national park is closed for years without a specific reason just because of an accident happened there. What a sign! Really appreciate Frankie’s invitation. He also took me to Moran junction after playing the paddle boat. From Moran junction, 25 miles with about 900 meters gains in altitude to Togwotee pass, and another 10 miles downhill to Lava mountain lodge, which provides rustic cabin(30 dollars for basic rates) for me to overnight. Two day’s luck and enjoying, but the next day is another misfortune. 大提頓國家公園地標－Jackson湖 大提頓國家公園地標－Jackson湖 大提頓國家公園地標－Jackson湖 大提頓國家公園地標－Jackson湖 大提頓國家公園山稜 大提頓往Togwotee隘口路景，前方即為隘口 大提頓往Togwotee隘口路景，山稜為大提頓 翻越落磯山脈，再前行約半英里即為Togwotee隘口 麋鹿鎮(Moose)，曾扮演渡河渡輪重要交通節 麋鹿鎮，商鋪反射大提頓山稜 文章提到的Jackson hole鎮 文章提到的Lava mountain lodge 文章提到的paddle boat 文章提到的簡易木屋，有wifi和充電插座與暖氣，共用浴廁 |
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