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一路向南,穿越美洲大陆单车旅行-美洲篇

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发表于 2017-12-1 20:22 显示全部帖子
7/5 Monarch mountain lodge--Gunnison鎮--Cimarron鎮,pleasant valley私人營地 90英里
7/6 黑色峽谷國家公園一日遊

這兩天有兩個主要景點,Curecanti遊憩區上游的峽谷道路,峽谷不深但是仍有特色。和1999年才成立的黑色峽谷國家公園。黑色峽谷成因為Gunnison河對因火山噴發與爾後發生在4千到7千萬年前的Gunnison隆起作用(Gunnison uplift)形成的台地的切割作用。火山岩質地較軟,切割作用快,基岩結晶岩(crystalline structure)質地硬,切割作用慢,而近年Gunnison上游的三個水壩又降低了切割作用。因為峽谷深陽光難以穿透,因此有『黑色』之稱

黑色峽谷是北美第五深峽谷,但是相對大峽谷與優勝美地遊客少,國家公園道路分為南北緣,兩者並不連結。我這次參觀的是較易抵達的南緣,並在南緣營地過夜。當日有預約,因為我搶不贏汽車。

Two main amazing sights in the two days. The road upstream of Curecanti national recreation area(one of dams of Gunnison river) winds through shadow canyon, not deep but still attractive. And black canyon national park founded in 1999. The black canyon is formed by Gunnison river cutting through soft volcanic island uplifted between 70 and 40 million years ago(part of the Gunnison Uplift). The volcanic rock is softer and vulnerable to river cutting and formed the deep canyon. The base structure is crystalline and hard enough to slow down the cutting. Also 3 dams upstream of the canyon further slowing down the cutting action. The depth makes sunshine penetrate difficult, so the canyon has the name of “black”.

Although as 5th depth canyon in north America, black canyon national park receives comparatively less tourists than great canyon and Yosemite. The two main road systems--south rim and north rim, are not connected to each other. I visited easily accessible south rim and overnighted in the campground there. Reserved a site of course, because I can't battle for and win the site with motorized vehicles.
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Gunnison水壩前的峽谷景觀
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Gunnison水壩前的峽谷景觀
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发表于 2017-12-2 09:04 显示全部帖子
Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

7/7 黑色峽谷營地--Rigway鎮的Orvis溫泉 40英里
? Rigway--San Juan國家森林436號道路隨意營地(近主要公路里程牌37英里北方) 90英里
7/9 隨意營地--Cortez 37英里

又是一天成功找到免費合法營地。再強調一次,想在國家森林裡隨意露營(dispersed camping),人生地不熟下,一定得從國家森林官網先下載motor vehicle use map,而眾多可以隨意露營的道路中,往靠近水源(如小溪,需搭配Google maps瀏覽)的森林道路找,往往可以找到整理過的的林間營地。有人為痕跡加上國家森林地圖的佐證,完全不用擔心誤入私人土地的風險。

這幾天發生許多有趣的事。首先為了Mersa verde國家公園,我的行程得適度調整,容後詳述,也因此我可以放慢步伐。7號的溫泉營地僅距離Rigway約1英里,是我搜尋『Rigway,campground』偶然找到的。露營一晚49美金,費用包含無限使用溫泉池。雖然僅6個營位且每日限額24人(另有旅館房間),但是我幸運的在入住的前一晚預約到營位。這裡的溫泉池十分有趣,室外池可穿可不穿,也就是我可以穿著泳褲光明正大的欣賞…,可惜沒美女。還有兩個先搶先贏但是完全不搶手的私人池(大家都跑去室外池了)。我並沒有那麼喜愛溫泉,但是有個價位合理的溫泉休閒營地倒也不賴。

從Rigway開始,道路先翻過一個小丘,之後下抵San Miguel河並沿其上溯,沿路有許多色彩紅艷的赭石,與年代古老,可明顯觀察到年代分層結理的有趣巨岩,這些地質景觀將在猶它州更常見。翻過美國之行最後一個超過3000公尺的隘口後,首先先下抵Rico鎮,往昔的採礦大鎮與Cortez郡首府,目前僅剩百餘居民。這裡也許是我到目前為止最熱情的居民,他們該晚有音樂宴會並勸我參加並在鎮外約1英里處露營,只可惜我有行程要趕。我得儘早到Cortez的旅遊中心搶Mersa verde的票。

7/7 Campground in south rim of Black canyon national park--Rigway, Orvis hot springs 40 miles
? Rigway--San Juan national forest road no. 436 dispersed campground (north of milepost 37 of main highway) 90miles
7/9 Dispersed campground--Cortez 37 miles

Another day of success in finding a lawful dispersed campground. To dispersed camp in national forest, you must download the motor vehicle use map from the national forest gov web. And the best forestry road to find dispersed campground or even a “primitive dispersed campground” is the one has water resources, by the creek for example. That's where I camped, a flat grassy field under trees, with fire pit and a lovely creek just few yards away. Human activity traces and back-up by the national forest map, I don't need to worry about stepping into private property unintentionally.

Many interesting things happened in the days. I have to adjust the schedule for visiting Mesa Verde national park(the reason will discuss in the next post), which means I could slow down in the 3 days. I found Orvis hot springs when searching “Rigway, campground “, a interesting campground just one mile off Rigway downtown. There are 6 outdoor springs pools, and users are “clothing optional” in outdoor pools, which means I could wear to watch...., no one gorgeous there sorry. Also there are two private pools, where I soaked in most of time there. I was lucky to reserve an available campsite just one day before arriving( ony 6 campsites available). I am not a very hot springs type, but it's not bad to have a place for relaxing, with reasonable price(49 per day for a person).

Cycled from Rigway, the scenic byway first cross a hill, then goes down along San Miguel river. The byway traces and goes upstream to San Miguel river until the last pass over 3000 meters in my journey in USA, Lizard head pass. Along the road are numerous beautiful red rocks and joints of rock outcrop of different ancient eras, which the scenery is more common in Utah, my future journey. Beyond San Juan pass, the road winds down to Rico, a pass mining town and Cortez county seat, just few residents there nowadays. But people in Rico might be the most welcoming in my road until now. They have a music party and invited me to join and suggested me to camped 1 mile away from the town. I really want to but I can't. I have to arrive Colorado welcome center in Cortez to battle for the tickets to Mesa Verde national park.
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溫泉室外池,雖然規定不可照相,但是早上沒人…。貓很精明的選了一個比較不燙口的
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赭岩與路景
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  • daimondchanwai ...............這裡的溫泉池十分有趣,室外池可穿可不穿,也就是我可以穿著泳褲光明正大的欣賞…......... 最尷尬...... 看到美味的食物,明明是肚子餓得咕咕聲響,還得裝作若無其事,像剛剛吃得飽飽的樣子,偏偏 ... 2017-12-2 15:54
发表于 2017-12-2 15:54 显示全部帖子
不羁的驴子 发表于 2017-12-2 09:04
Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

7/7 黑色峽谷營地--Rigway鎮的O ...

...............這裡的溫泉池十分有趣,室外池可穿可不穿,也就是我可以穿著泳褲光明正大的欣賞….........


最尷尬......
看到美味的食物,明明是肚子餓得咕咕聲響,還得裝作若無其事,像剛剛吃得飽飽的樣子,偏偏又避不開美食的反射光!
发表于 2017-12-12 21:39 显示全部帖子
7/10 Mesa Verde國家公園一日駕車遊
7/11 Cortez--Blanding 82英里

前幾天我與妹妹討論美國國家公園制度,其中許多值得參考的。除了黃石冰川國家公園的biker/hiker營地,Mesa verda國家公園是另一個典範。

Mersa verde是古Pueblo人居住之地,細節歷史可網路查詢(如維基百科),國家公園內有許多遺址,最重要的三處需購票入場,最早兩天前可到指定場所購買(請參見官網),非假日一般最遲一大早當日票就會售罄,這也是我得提前一日搶票之因。另外園區西側往long house的道路因過盲彎加上路幅窄,禁止自行車,加上園區廣大,我決定租車行。除了管制人數,參觀期間有解說員(ranger)在側,除了知識性的講解,也避免遊客破壞古蹟,無論是否有意,例如『不可觸碰』古蹟建物這項容易被忽略的規則,以避免皮膚上的油漬對古蹟造成傷害。

解說員的解說內容背誦性的告知歷史,而是結合各項知識並帶有個人觀點的解釋。例如牆上的六指與五指掌印,可能代表居民有基因變異性,可合理推論與外界有一定的人員交流與移民。壁畫的意義也許不可考,但是可以推理出住在這裡不只能生存,還有時間精力從事精神活動。居民為何而來,最後為何離去仍是最大的謎,但是乾旱應該不是完全因素(這裡本來就是半乾旱地區),等等。

這也是美國國家公園的最大特色之一-ranger program(解說員活動),大部分解說活動或是健行解說活動是免費的,而在國家公園內營地往往有傍晚解說活動。我也是在落磯山國家公園營地的傍晚解說活動了解到黑色峽谷與Mesa verde等兩個值得參訪國家公園就在我計劃路線附近,否則我可能過門不入。

也許這是最佳保存古蹟的方式,不只保護它,更讓盡可能多的人了解它。
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Bakony house遺址,與其他遺址不同,被發現時只有僅可爬行進出口,加上其位置,推測有防禦作用,但是又無發現武器,實際作用仍未解。
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发表于 2017-12-13 19:24 显示全部帖子
7/12 Blanding--Hite, 參觀自然石橋(natural bridges national monement) 主道路 77英里
(Highway 95)

7/13 Hite--Hanksville--Caneville 70英里(Highway 98-Highway24)

猶它州人口密集於鹽湖城都會區,其他的廣大地區人口稀少。原因可由其地貌一探究竟。猶它州地多屬乾旱,或是不適合居住的峽谷地形。但也因為地貌特殊,猶它州擁有5座國家公園。

我的路徑大致參考western express trail,這條連結舊金山與中部科羅拉多州的自行車路徑,在猶它州沿者人煙稀少的景觀道路,所有你在地圖上的大公路,都不是我採取的路徑。

沿路的特色碩大紅岩,擁有不同古老年代分層,的確令人目不暇給,但是在盛夏時分,穿越人煙稀少區域,水源是一大問題。也因為如此,我這兩天只有遇到一位單車客。

從Blanding到Hanksville120英里被視為猶它最困難的路段,因為相傳沿路無水源。但是在12日的Hite居然有飲水機!這只是一個國家休閒區保護站(Glenn canyon ranger station),原本我並不抱以厚望,但是這個甫建成的遊客中心居然有飲水機(於遊客中心旁)!雖然我有準備過夜用水,但是有飲水機等於我可以大口暢飲。另外幸好我來的晚,雜貨店已打烊,保護站職員早已回去居住區休息,否則我不確定在飲水機旁邊的荒地過夜是否合法。晚上10點左右來了一對蒙古來的迷路夫婦(他們還問我知不知道蒙古在哪裡),我們大趣的說,三個亞洲人來自少見的國籍,在啥都沒有的地方相遇!

地貌並不總是有趣。7/13後半段進入綠色沙漠,紅色巨岩峽谷變成了月世界。最後我錯估情勢來到沒有雜貨店的村落,幸好還有私人露營地供應水源與過夜場所。

7/12 Blanding--Hite,, visit natural bridges national monement), cycled on highway 95 from mp 122 to 48

7/13 Hite--Hanksville--Caneville, cycled on highway 95 from 48 to 0, then cycled on highway 24 from mp 116 to 75

Most Utah people resident in Salt lake metropolitan area. Leaving Salt lake is less populated, other than vast arid area, canyonlands which is not ideal for farming, all of them causes low population density in state Utah. But also because of charming landscape, Utah has 5 national parks.

My cycle route is along the western express trail, which connects San Francisco and central Colorado. This bicycle trail follows scenic byways in Utah. All of the major highways are not included in this route.

Gigantic dark red rocks with layers of different ancient eras are really amazing. But cycle through arid regions in midsummer is kind of insane. I only met 1 cyclist on the opposite direction in the two days.

Where is the water? I am not in April Alaska, where frozen water just on the roadside. One of the most difficult section in Utah of western express trail is Blanding to Hanksville, 120 miles without water resources on some records, but I indeed found drinking water in Hite in the middle. It's a new built Glenn canyon ranger station just 2 miles off main highway. And fortunately I came here late and rangers were not around the station/visitor center, or I wonder if I would be allowed to camp in dessert land next to the ranger station, where water fountain locates. A lost Mongolian couple came around 10pm and we joked that 3 Asian travelers of less-seen nationals in America met on the middle of nowhere!

The landscape is not always interesting. Red canyon becomes green desert about 20 miles north Hanksville. I misunderstood the information and came into a village of no food supply in Caineville, luckily I found a private campground with shower and drinking water.
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发表于 2017-12-15 20:19 显示全部帖子
7/14 Caneville--Torrey--公路編號12最高點,里程101(公路編號24與12) 48英里
7/15 7/14--Tropic(公路編號12) 79英里

7/15號下了我在猶他州最長的雷陣雨,5分鐘。

在猶他州中西側的山麓地區,一方面來自高山的融雪,另一方面盛夏的午後雷陣雨,提供耕種與放牧水源,也是人口相對集中區。但是雷陣雨在8月才達到巔峰,七月閃電打雷個老半天,但是雨沒下幾滴的結果,加上地表積雪融的差不多,結果就是森林可能很高興的燒起來。

森林因閃電起火一直是美國中西部夏季災害,這裡不加多談。這兩天的地形多變,從峽谷到森林,一路夭壽的從1500爬到快2800,這段爬坡不是均勻的,而是像插旗竿般由數段陡坡組成。道路在另一個小鎮Boulder回到峽谷底部,之後爬上峽谷上緣的桌型平原並在其中蜿蜒,有幾段沒有護欄,有在騎鋪柏油的塔比拉斷崖的感覺。之後道路在充滿綠意的河谷翻過高度約2300的隘口,之後下抵三個小鎮,包含農業小鎮Henrieville以探索這個區域的先驅者為名,與我過夜的觀光小鎮Tropic。

上一篇提到我幸運的在Caneville找到私人露營地,其實沒那麼幸運。老闆把一台晚到的露營車安排在我的帳篷旁邊,我原本不以為意,但是在半夜發現露營車的接電插頭發出巨大噪音,在不知他們是來健行還是打獵的狀況下,只好半夜拖著塞滿行李的沉重帳篷遠走他處。

而7/14的森林營地正好在放牧區旁,煮晚餐時一隻牛一直盯著我看,不知是看到紅色的火讓它興奮,還是想嘗試葷食,我很擔心它會衝過來,打翻爐頭,引起森林大火。隔天一早天還沒亮就被牛吵醒。

地貌特殊,被牛牟叫聲吵醒,還有下5分鐘,衣服服3分鐘就乾的天氣,只差撿到恐龍化石我就心滿意足了。

4 Caneville--Torrey--summit Highway 12, mp101 48miles
7/15 7/14--Tropic(highway12) 79miles

The most lasting thunderstorm happened in 15, July in my journey in Utah, lasted for about 5 minutes.

In middle-west of Utah is high range and two national forest locates--fishlake and dixie. The river in the valley receives streams from thawing ice and monsoon in summertime, provides water resources for farming and ranching. The most severe thunderstorm is on August. In July thunder and lightning in the afternoon are common, but usually few rainfall is expected. Accomplished by strong lightning is high possibilities of forest fire.

I am not going further on forest fire. But from arid canyon to moisture forest, from about 1100 meters in Hire to highest point of highway 12, which is almost 2800 meters in altitude,Utah has really huge diversity of landscape. Leaving the forest, the highway winds down to Boulder, then climbs to plateau on the top of large canyon rock masses. Some sections is without guardrail and a bit scary to me. Further going is a greenish valley and soonish gently ascends to another pass, before descending to another valley where three charming towns locates, including an agricultural village Henrieville which is named after the pioneer in the region, and a tourist town Tropic where I overnighted. Combined with several unfriendly steep grades, climbing the first summit is difficult to me.

I wrote about fortunately finding a private campground before dark on 13 July. Well, maybe not so lucky. The owner arranged a rv parked next to my tend at about 10pm. I didn't pay attention it but soon I realized that rv electric hookup makes huge noises. In the case that I didn't know if they came for hiking or hunting, I didn't dare to wake them up but to skid the filling and heavy tent and move elsewhere at midnight.

I camped in the woods in somewhere of Fishlake national forest, near the highway summit and just by the grassy ranch on 7/14. A cow staring at me when cooking dinner. Excited to the red-colored fire or want to try something non-vegetarian? I didn't know but kind of afraid that the cow rushed to me, knocked over the firing stove, and then burned down the forest. Seriously.

The next day I was waked by the cows, an interesting experience to me. Also the gorgeous landscape, the changing weather, are all makes my journey in Utah appealing(not enjoyable). And I think that a dinosaur fossil on the roadside would make this section perfect!
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发表于 2017-12-27 21:53 显示全部帖子
7/17 Tropic-Bryce峽谷國家公園(Bryce canyon national park) 10英里,參觀國家公園與免費導覽公車

Bryce峽谷並不是真的峽谷,因為沒有河川穿越其中。形成被稱為Hoodoos的柱狀地質景觀不外乎冰、水、風的侵蝕,加上外在環境的配合,諸如這裡每年超過200天日間氣溫超過0度,但是夜間降至冰點以下,這會加速岩石的裂解,而這裡地質古老,不同考古年代有不同的岩石組成,其中來自湖泊年代的泥岩較石灰岩耐侵蝕,石灰岩鎂含量越高顏色會偏黃也比較抗侵蝕等。網路有更多資料。

回到我的旅行,我並沒有在園區內騎車。不論原因,國家公園在降低園區內車輛滿用心的。以Bryce為例,貫穿園區道路18英里,遊客設施都在前4英里,有兩種接駁車行駛,第一種繞行遊客設施與前4英里的景點,旺季10-20分鐘ㄧ班;另一種彩虹巴士(rainbow shuttle bus)一天兩班,一路導覽解說帶旅客到道路終點,彩虹觀景點(rainbow point)。

第二種導覽車是免費的(還是要買門票),這是精明的委外經營,旅客付門票錢給國家公園,國家公園撥一筆預算給私人企業經營導覽服務,避免遊覽車把園區塞爆(園區內禁行遊覽車)。美國國家公園的熱門程度和位置有很大關係,Bryce算是猶他州最容易被塞爆的,雖然只有18英里的旅遊道路。導覽車最早可七日前預約,我當然不會浪費這個大好機會,也避免和汽車爭道,雖然預定一週後的行程有些困擾。

7/17 Tropic--Bryce canyon national park, 10 miles, visit the national park and took free rainbow interpretive shuttle bus

Without river goes through, Bryce canyon is not a real canyon. The formation of Hoodoos, the pillar shaped colorful rocks is mainly because of erosion of water and wind, and ice cleavage. Physical environment is also important for hoodoos formation, such as huge temperature difference between day and night, at least 200 days in one year has daytime temperature beyond frozen point, but below at night,which increases the ice cleavage. Aged geology indicates huge chemical component differences in rock layers of each geologic years, and different rates of erosion. For example, mud rocks, which sedimented when this area is under water, is more resistant to erosion than limestone. And limestone composes more magnesium is more resistant,and magnesium makes the yellowish color.

Back to my journey. I didn't cycle in Bryce canyon national park. No matter what reason is, national parks in USA makes efforts to reduce the vehicle numbers in the park. Two shuttle buses in Bryce, the first one takes tourists to the facilities and main sights in first four miles of park road. The second one, rainbow shuttle bus, takes tourists to the end point, rainbow point, of the park road.

Rainbow shuttle bus is also an interpretive tour. It's free of charge and reservation is recommended( can be made up to 7 days before). It's a smart strategy to lower the private vehicle use. Tourists still have to pay the entrance fee to enter the park. And the park grant funds to private sector to run rainbow bus. Bryce canyon is a busy park because of its scenery and location, so prevents tourists jam in the park is important. Of course I took rainbow bus instead of cycling and beating the road with motorized vehicles. Although it's a bit disturbing to reserve the bus tour one week before.
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发表于 2018-1-10 21:30 显示全部帖子
Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

7/17 Bryce峽谷國家公園--紅色峽谷--Panguich鎮--Cedar breaks國家景致(national monument)--雪松城(Cedar city) 公路編號12,89,143,148,14 75英里
7/18 雪松城--Milford 57英里

7/17淋了三陣雷陣雨!

那天的路程需從海拔約2000的Panguich鎮翻上海拔大約3200的Cedar breaks國家景致,也是以柱狀岩石Hoodoos聞名。這斷上坡坡度均勻和緩,並不困難,但是烏雲似乎一路尾隨,應該區域侷限且時間短暫的雷陣雨,居然被我遇到三次。雪松城旅館的老闆還跟我說:啥,這裡還沒有午後雷陣雨。語畢不久,傾盆大雨來襲。

雪松城是大城鎮,人口超過2萬人,鎮區內私人露營地只有2處,但是旅館至少有1打,競爭激烈下,最便宜的一晚43美金,含早餐。而隔日的Milford更是有趣,人口大約1500,位居水源不渝匱乏的河谷,昔日為重要交通節點,目前農牧業發達的小鎮,應該一片欣欣向榮。但是走進鎮區,一路『待轉售(for sale)』的商家,似乎代表這個小鎮正在掙扎求生。而一家價格同樣便宜的旅館,附有24小時營業的餐廳,在荒涼的地區開一間24小時營業的餐廳,真是有膽,誠心希望業者能撐久點。

接下來是北美『魔鬼訓練週』,穿越內華達沙漠的公路50,得橫跨超過10個南北走向的山丘,且可以補給水源聚落之間距離遙遠。有人帶很多水,騎到哪裡算哪裡,但是我傾向仔細規劃行程,每天盡量在有水源的小鎮過夜,而非攜帶很多的水,拖慢速度。而過了這片沙漠,就是久違的太平洋。

7/17 Bryce canyon national park--red canyon--Panguich--Cedar breaks national monument--Cedar city highway12,89,143,148,14 75miles
7/18 Cedar city--Milford 57miles

I got 3 thunder storms on 7/17.

From Panguish in about 2000 meters above sea level, highway 143 gently picks up altitude until Cedar breaks national monument, about 3100-3250 meters height above sea level. Grinding on this section should not be strenuous, although pouring rains almost drove me crazy. Thunderstorms should be limited in location and duration, but the clouds seemed to trail behind me all the way and gave me three severe showers. I need one shower in three days, not 3 showers in one day. And I don't like my clothes drenched all the afternoon. More than that, another thunderstorm happened soon after I was told the thunderstorm hadn't strike Cedar city when checking in the hotel.

With more than 20,000 population, Cedar city is a big town in the standard of Utah. It only has 2 private campground but at least a dozen of hotels. Under fierce competition, the cheapest hotel is only 43 dollars per night, breakfast included. Another town Milford, once important in railway transportation, with popular about 1500, located in a water abundant valley. Farming and ranching are still important now. It seems that Milford is a busy town, but several “for sale” shops in township tells me that Milford is struggling to survive. In the case, the open 24 hours restaurant just next to the renovated hotel is a bizarre existence. To open a never-closed restaurant in the middle of nowhere(to some extent), I don't know why but sincerely hope that this facility could have a long life.

Beyond Utah of my journey is Nevada desert. Making cycle through Nevada desert difficult is not only that cyclists have to wind through several passes separating the desert, but also the distance between two towns(which indicates water resources) is remote. Some cyclists carry as much water and cycle as far as they can. But I prefer another strategy. To read the map carefully, and make to another town before dark, instead of carrying lots of water for camping in the desert, and more water loaded means slower the speed.
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发表于 2018-1-11 12:38 显示全部帖子
旅程與描述都十分好,祇是更新得稍慢........
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发表于 4 天前 显示全部帖子
daimondchanwai 发表于 2018-1-11 12:38
旅程與描述都十分好,祇是更新得稍慢........

小弟也是暗暗著急……網路阻隔,哎
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