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一路向南,穿越美洲大陆单车旅行-美洲篇

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发表于 2018-1-15 13:10 显示全部帖子
Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

7/19 Milford--Baker 83英里
7/20 Baker--Ely 63英里

我考慮過繞進大峽谷等國家公園,但是一方面這次旅行已經參觀大約10個北美的國家公園,另一方面在國家公園騎單車能期待什麼?美景,壅塞,不友善的單車騎士住宿政策。依個人之見,在國家公園的既有單車路徑騎單車是有趣的事,但是騎在主要公路則不然。駕駛人看到熊,照完相會繞過,繞不過則停車等待;看到自行車也會繞過,但是繞不過則以毫米距離擦自行車而過。

這也是我在這兩天遇到最離譜的兩件事。7/19號的公路還不是50號公路(被稱為美國最寂寞公路,但是實際上仍連結許多重要城鎮),車流極為稀疏,即時如此,ㄧ輛露營車在對向有貨車,同向有自行車的情況下,居然還玩『三人行』,從我和貨車之間擠過去。若是對向有車陣,不玩三人行的下場是得等好一陣子車陣通過再超我車的情況,我會閃到路邊讓他通過,但是這輛露營車不但連幾秒等待貨車通過都不肯,速度還完全不放慢。另一個是在無路肩時對向小客車超車貨車,拜託,是沒看到我嗎?趕頭七還是趕投胎?

內華達乾燥區是地殼擠壓運動下產生數個南北向的稜脈與山谷,這幾天的路程就是不斷的翻稜下谷。谷地並非黃色沙漠,至少我還沒看到任何自行車胎殺手-仙人掌,谷地仍有農牧業。即時如此,我在兩鎮間仍找不到飲用水,乾燥的空氣讓飲水控制十分困難,我到了Ely,馬上衝進麥當勞灌水(美國麥當勞飲料飲水可無限暢飲),。這段路完全沒有享受可言,我只是想趕快到目的地。而路上的賽車讓這段路罪加一等。

7/19 Milford--Baker 83miles
7/20 Baker--Ely 63miles

I thought about cycle to more national parks, grand canyon for example. But on the one hand about 10 national parks of North America in one trip is quite enough for me. On the other hand, what could I expect in national parks other than gorgeous scenery? Congestion and unfriendly accommodation policy for cyclists? In my opinion, to cycle on the designed trails in national parks is joyful, but on the main park roads is not. A driver passes the bear after taking a pic, if he can't passes the bear, he stops and waits. A driver passes the cyclist, but if he can't pass the cyclist, he swipes.

That's the two ridiculous things happened in the two days. A RV swipes me when a truck on the opposite lane at the same time on 7/19. That day I cycled on highway 21. Not like highway 50 which is called the loneliest highway in America but still winds through several populated towns, highway 21 from Milford to Baker really goes into no man's land. Scarce traffic is expected, and no more than 50 vehicles passed me on that day. Back to the crazy RV, I pull over and wait the coming vehicle to pass when cars queue up on the opposite lane(The driver have no choice but to swipe me or he has to wait until the queue passes). But there was only 1 truck, the RV driver could just wait a few seconds. I already tried to cycle as much close to the road edge as I could, but the rv driver not only swiped me in a hazardous distance, but also roared past, not even slowed down a bit. The other ridiculous thing was a sedan on the opposite lane passes a truck when I was just next to the two vehicles. I had to rush to the roadside to avoid collision.

The ridges span on Nevada parallels to Sierra Cascade, and have the same formation history-- corrugated in plate motion. Highway 50 crosses the ridges and make cycle on it challenging. The valley between two ridges is green, farming and ranching are still prosperous. Even so, I can't find any reliable drinking water between two towns, and the dry air makes control the use of drinking water I carried more difficult. I rushed to McDonald's to swig when in Ely, no exaggerating. It's not a enjoying section to me, I only want to arrive at the destination earlier. And the crazy drivers makes cycling on highway 50 more stressful.
湖泊.jpg

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湖泊
歡迎來的內華達,人家有自然美景,我們有賭場.jpg

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歡迎來的內華達,人家有自然美景,我們有賭場
歡迎自行車嗎?這是另一個故事.jpg

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歡迎自行車嗎?這是另一個故事
看到道路通往對面的山稜了嗎.jpg

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看到道路通往對面的山稜了嗎
其中一個隘口.jpg

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其中一個隘口
发表于 2018-2-9 22:37 显示全部帖子
Please read the English version in the second half of this article.
7/21 Ely--Eukera 78英里
7/22 Eukera--Austin 70英里
我無法在半路無人地區露營的原因,除了水源,還有這裡的道路多有圍籬。而Eukera我選擇住進旅館,因為我不敢在露營車營地露營。
上次的照片提到Baker鎮的營地。Baker是大盆地國家公園的前哨站,但是該國家公園一方面位置偏遠,另一方面缺乏獨特景點與吸引力,旅客稀疏。Baker有兩間營業時間大致錯開的餐廳(一間開到傍晚,另一間開三餐),這不是繁忙的小鎮,唯一的私人露營地只停了3台露營車。
多數單車旅客會停泊Baker,或是說除了Baker,只剩在無人地區露營的選項。業主服務態度還好,但是其中一個露營車主放任他的狗鬼叫。我露營的地方是業者為單車客分隔的小空地,每次去廁所就會經過鬼叫的狗的露營車停放處。更有趣的,翌日早晨我在廁所看到遇到鬼叫的狗與主人,我與狗僅幾步距離,可以感到它的攻擊性,我非常想試防熊噴霧的威力,若是我有攜帶的話。
一整路景觀大同小異,灌木叢與矮草點綴山坡,山谷則可能有牛馬與青草牧場,還有許多咕咕叫的貓頭鷹。小鎮有該有的設施--旅館,露營場地,加油站,雜貨店與吃角子老虎機等,但是更多的是待轉售(for sale)的商家。Eukera唯一的露營車場地為自我註冊(self-registered)制度,也就是自己找地方停露營車,然後到無人看守的櫃檯把費用投進類似郵筒的箱子。問題來了,斗大的露營車營地(rv park)招牌沒載明可搭帳篷露營,場地內看不出來哪裡可搭帳篷,業主電話打不通,價目表沒寫到搭帳篷,在這種

?情況下,加上之前的經驗,我寧願多花錢住旅館。
被稱為美國最寂寞公路,我覺得不只公路穿越廣大的無人地帶,還有冷漠。我知道多數人熱心友善,但是『多數人』在哪裡呢?還是不要期待太多,天助自助,祈禱一整天都不刮大風,還有一些雲遮蓋天空。
7/21 Ely--Eukera 78miles
7/22 Eukera--Austin 70miles
Other than water resources, fenced highway in most sections is another reason I can't wild camp.  I chose to stay in motel in Eureka is because I didn't dare to camp in the only rv park.
Baker, the small town mentioned in last post, is the frontier of Great basin national park.   The national park doesn't have too many visitors  because it locates remotely and lacks of signature sights.  Baker is not a busy town, two restaurants even partially stager their business hour.  But Baker is an important stop for cyclists, or they have to overnight in the middle of nowhere, without water.
The only campground in Baker has a separate areas for cyclists.  But I have to pass the rv park area to the restroom.  One of the rv owner let the large dog barking at me and every passerby, as if the dog sang to him.  More than that, I met the furious dog in the restroom in the next morning, and its owner still ignored the annoying behavior of the dog.  Within few feet distance from the dog, I felt the aggravation.  I would use the bear spray if I brought it with me, no kidding.
The scenery of these days on highway 50 is quite the same.  Bushes one the green-yellowish hill, castles and horses might be seen on the valley.  Along with owls”gu-gu” on many sections.  The most vivid place in the towns alongside is the bar in the evening.  Outside the bar, the towns is secluded, shops for sale are more common scenery than tourists facilities and slot machines.  The only rv park is self-registered in Eureka,  but I didn't know if I could tent there.  The signpost says “rv park”, the campsites were all designed for rv, and tent price isn't enlisted in the pricelist.   After two unanswered phone calls to the owner, I gave up to camp there.  By the awful experience before, I would rather pay up to stay in the motel than be waked up at midnight, if the rv park is only a rv park.
I almost lost my voice on the loneliest highway 50.  I don't have much chance to talk.  I don't expect any help or warm welcome from people on the highway.  I am aware that most people are still friendly and humble, but where are these people outside the facility?  Well, I should count on myself, and pray the nature power would help me a bit, the wind never picks up its speed in the cycling daytime and have some clouds shades the heating sun.
『六個小鎮,16座山稜(隘口),一個國家公園』.jpg

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『六個小鎮,16座山稜(隘口),一個國家公園』
Austin往西往Middlegate路景.jpg

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Austin往西往Middlegate路景
Austin鎮,教會附設營地,露營10美金,自我註冊(self-registered).jpg

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Austin鎮,教會附設營地,露營10美金,自我註冊(self-registered)
Austin鎮.jpg

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Austin鎮
Austin鎮1.jpg

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Austin鎮
Ely往Eukera路景,Eukera在後方山稜之後.jpg

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Ely往Eukera路景,Eukera在後方山稜之後
Ely往西路段,有一小段鐵路平行與公路.jpg

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Ely往西路段,有一小段鐵路平行與公路
Ely鎮,也發展博弈產業,但是位置較為不便並不非常成功,可以發現許多被廢棄的旅館等旅遊設施.jpg

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Ely鎮,也發展博弈產業,但是位置較為不便並不非常成功,可以發現許多被廢棄的旅館等旅遊設施
Ely鎮,也發展博弈產業,但是位置較為不便並不非常成功.jpg

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Ely鎮,也發展博弈產業,但是位置較為不便並不非常成功


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