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一路向南,穿越美洲大陆单车旅行-美洲篇

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发表于 2018-1-15 13:10 显示全部帖子
Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

7/19 Milford--Baker 83英里
7/20 Baker--Ely 63英里

我考慮過繞進大峽谷等國家公園,但是一方面這次旅行已經參觀大約10個北美的國家公園,另一方面在國家公園騎單車能期待什麼?美景,壅塞,不友善的單車騎士住宿政策。依個人之見,在國家公園的既有單車路徑騎單車是有趣的事,但是騎在主要公路則不然。駕駛人看到熊,照完相會繞過,繞不過則停車等待;看到自行車也會繞過,但是繞不過則以毫米距離擦自行車而過。

這也是我在這兩天遇到最離譜的兩件事。7/19號的公路還不是50號公路(被稱為美國最寂寞公路,但是實際上仍連結許多重要城鎮),車流極為稀疏,即時如此,ㄧ輛露營車在對向有貨車,同向有自行車的情況下,居然還玩『三人行』,從我和貨車之間擠過去。若是對向有車陣,不玩三人行的下場是得等好一陣子車陣通過再超我車的情況,我會閃到路邊讓他通過,但是這輛露營車不但連幾秒等待貨車通過都不肯,速度還完全不放慢。另一個是在無路肩時對向小客車超車貨車,拜託,是沒看到我嗎?趕頭七還是趕投胎?

內華達乾燥區是地殼擠壓運動下產生數個南北向的稜脈與山谷,這幾天的路程就是不斷的翻稜下谷。谷地並非黃色沙漠,至少我還沒看到任何自行車胎殺手-仙人掌,谷地仍有農牧業。即時如此,我在兩鎮間仍找不到飲用水,乾燥的空氣讓飲水控制十分困難,我到了Ely,馬上衝進麥當勞灌水(美國麥當勞飲料飲水可無限暢飲),。這段路完全沒有享受可言,我只是想趕快到目的地。而路上的賽車讓這段路罪加一等。

7/19 Milford--Baker 83miles
7/20 Baker--Ely 63miles

I thought about cycle to more national parks, grand canyon for example. But on the one hand about 10 national parks of North America in one trip is quite enough for me. On the other hand, what could I expect in national parks other than gorgeous scenery? Congestion and unfriendly accommodation policy for cyclists? In my opinion, to cycle on the designed trails in national parks is joyful, but on the main park roads is not. A driver passes the bear after taking a pic, if he can't passes the bear, he stops and waits. A driver passes the cyclist, but if he can't pass the cyclist, he swipes.

That's the two ridiculous things happened in the two days. A RV swipes me when a truck on the opposite lane at the same time on 7/19. That day I cycled on highway 21. Not like highway 50 which is called the loneliest highway in America but still winds through several populated towns, highway 21 from Milford to Baker really goes into no man's land. Scarce traffic is expected, and no more than 50 vehicles passed me on that day. Back to the crazy RV, I pull over and wait the coming vehicle to pass when cars queue up on the opposite lane(The driver have no choice but to swipe me or he has to wait until the queue passes). But there was only 1 truck, the RV driver could just wait a few seconds. I already tried to cycle as much close to the road edge as I could, but the rv driver not only swiped me in a hazardous distance, but also roared past, not even slowed down a bit. The other ridiculous thing was a sedan on the opposite lane passes a truck when I was just next to the two vehicles. I had to rush to the roadside to avoid collision.

The ridges span on Nevada parallels to Sierra Cascade, and have the same formation history-- corrugated in plate motion. Highway 50 crosses the ridges and make cycle on it challenging. The valley between two ridges is green, farming and ranching are still prosperous. Even so, I can't find any reliable drinking water between two towns, and the dry air makes control the use of drinking water I carried more difficult. I rushed to McDonald's to swig when in Ely, no exaggerating. It's not a enjoying section to me, I only want to arrive at the destination earlier. And the crazy drivers makes cycling on highway 50 more stressful.
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湖泊
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歡迎來的內華達,人家有自然美景,我們有賭場
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歡迎自行車嗎?這是另一個故事
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看到道路通往對面的山稜了嗎
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其中一個隘口
发表于 2018-2-9 22:37 显示全部帖子
Please read the English version in the second half of this article.
7/21 Ely--Eukera 78英里
7/22 Eukera--Austin 70英里
我無法在半路無人地區露營的原因,除了水源,還有這裡的道路多有圍籬。而Eukera我選擇住進旅館,因為我不敢在露營車營地露營。
上次的照片提到Baker鎮的營地。Baker是大盆地國家公園的前哨站,但是該國家公園一方面位置偏遠,另一方面缺乏獨特景點與吸引力,旅客稀疏。Baker有兩間營業時間大致錯開的餐廳(一間開到傍晚,另一間開三餐),這不是繁忙的小鎮,唯一的私人露營地只停了3台露營車。
多數單車旅客會停泊Baker,或是說除了Baker,只剩在無人地區露營的選項。業主服務態度還好,但是其中一個露營車主放任他的狗鬼叫。我露營的地方是業者為單車客分隔的小空地,每次去廁所就會經過鬼叫的狗的露營車停放處。更有趣的,翌日早晨我在廁所看到遇到鬼叫的狗與主人,我與狗僅幾步距離,可以感到它的攻擊性,我非常想試防熊噴霧的威力,若是我有攜帶的話。
一整路景觀大同小異,灌木叢與矮草點綴山坡,山谷則可能有牛馬與青草牧場,還有許多咕咕叫的貓頭鷹。小鎮有該有的設施--旅館,露營場地,加油站,雜貨店與吃角子老虎機等,但是更多的是待轉售(for sale)的商家。Eukera唯一的露營車場地為自我註冊(self-registered)制度,也就是自己找地方停露營車,然後到無人看守的櫃檯把費用投進類似郵筒的箱子。問題來了,斗大的露營車營地(rv park)招牌沒載明可搭帳篷露營,場地內看不出來哪裡可搭帳篷,業主電話打不通,價目表沒寫到搭帳篷,在這種

?情況下,加上之前的經驗,我寧願多花錢住旅館。
被稱為美國最寂寞公路,我覺得不只公路穿越廣大的無人地帶,還有冷漠。我知道多數人熱心友善,但是『多數人』在哪裡呢?還是不要期待太多,天助自助,祈禱一整天都不刮大風,還有一些雲遮蓋天空。
7/21 Ely--Eukera 78miles
7/22 Eukera--Austin 70miles
Other than water resources, fenced highway in most sections is another reason I can't wild camp.  I chose to stay in motel in Eureka is because I didn't dare to camp in the only rv park.
Baker, the small town mentioned in last post, is the frontier of Great basin national park.   The national park doesn't have too many visitors  because it locates remotely and lacks of signature sights.  Baker is not a busy town, two restaurants even partially stager their business hour.  But Baker is an important stop for cyclists, or they have to overnight in the middle of nowhere, without water.
The only campground in Baker has a separate areas for cyclists.  But I have to pass the rv park area to the restroom.  One of the rv owner let the large dog barking at me and every passerby, as if the dog sang to him.  More than that, I met the furious dog in the restroom in the next morning, and its owner still ignored the annoying behavior of the dog.  Within few feet distance from the dog, I felt the aggravation.  I would use the bear spray if I brought it with me, no kidding.
The scenery of these days on highway 50 is quite the same.  Bushes one the green-yellowish hill, castles and horses might be seen on the valley.  Along with owls”gu-gu” on many sections.  The most vivid place in the towns alongside is the bar in the evening.  Outside the bar, the towns is secluded, shops for sale are more common scenery than tourists facilities and slot machines.  The only rv park is self-registered in Eureka,  but I didn't know if I could tent there.  The signpost says “rv park”, the campsites were all designed for rv, and tent price isn't enlisted in the pricelist.   After two unanswered phone calls to the owner, I gave up to camp there.  By the awful experience before, I would rather pay up to stay in the motel than be waked up at midnight, if the rv park is only a rv park.
I almost lost my voice on the loneliest highway 50.  I don't have much chance to talk.  I don't expect any help or warm welcome from people on the highway.  I am aware that most people are still friendly and humble, but where are these people outside the facility?  Well, I should count on myself, and pray the nature power would help me a bit, the wind never picks up its speed in the cycling daytime and have some clouds shades the heating sun.
『六個小鎮,16座山稜(隘口),一個國家公園』.jpg

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『六個小鎮,16座山稜(隘口),一個國家公園』
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Austin往西往Middlegate路景
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Austin鎮,教會附設營地,露營10美金,自我註冊(self-registered)
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Austin鎮
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Austin鎮
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Ely往Eukera路景,Eukera在後方山稜之後
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Ely往西路段,有一小段鐵路平行與公路
Ely鎮,也發展博弈產業,但是位置較為不便並不非常成功,可以發現許多被廢棄的旅館等旅遊設施.jpg

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Ely鎮,也發展博弈產業,但是位置較為不便並不非常成功,可以發現許多被廢棄的旅館等旅遊設施
Ely鎮,也發展博弈產業,但是位置較為不便並不非常成功.jpg

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Ely鎮,也發展博弈產業,但是位置較為不便並不非常成功


发表于 2018-2-23 09:53 显示全部帖子
Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

723 Austin--Middlegate 64英里
724 Middlegate--Fallon(50號公路寂寞段(乾旱段)西側端點--silver spring 73 英里

有篇遊記是這樣形容這段50號公路的:這段路實在太無聊了,於是我開始數樹,但是數樹還是很無聊,因為這段路只有三棵樹。

扣除小鎮人種的,我從小Baker到Fallon只數到了兩棵樹,另一棵可能被雷劈了還是被車撞了。我妹妹建議數車,但是車開得比閃電快不好數。也許我可以嘗試判斷橫死街頭動物死無全屍的品種。

嚴格說來,這段路還是有些趣味。Middlegate,人口17人,位於Austin與Fallon111英里的中間,包含我在內的多數單車騎士無法在載重下一日騎完111英里,於是Middlegate成為單車騎士必過夜之處。Middlegate並不是小鎮,充其量只是食宿設施,17人扣除學齡兒童,都是員工。

Middlegate不只是單車騎士重要的停泊站,也是觀光景點。『middlegate, in the middle of nowhere(middlegate,在啥都沒有的地方)』是最響亮的號召。內華達的50號公路有做成像369鄉鎮的小冊子,Middlegate是其中一個集章的地點。因此這裡餐廳最繁忙時段不是傍晚的下班時間,而是旅客還在路上的下午時段。

而往東距離14英里的cold springs旅遊設施站雖然用餐環境較佳(Middlegate的廚房和用餐區無分隔),但是相較不受旅客青睞,我休息午餐的正午時段,除了一對借廁所的老夫妻,再也沒有旅客駐足。Cold springs附近牧業發達,居民分散,而Middlegate是像大家庭的小社區。

在Middlegate露營不收分毫,洗澡3美金,員工親切和氣,但僅限於此。雖然人數不多,但是單車旅客在這裡並不稀奇。沒有與人談天的機會,只是寂寞的度過一晚,乾雷不斷直到午夜。但這裡的確是很好的休息站,至少翌日保持一樣早起的作息規律而不覺得睡眠不足,以盡量避開下午的炙熱或強風。Middlegate是我在內華達乾旱區的最後一晚,翌日過了Fallon,人車再度熙熙攘攘,翻過內華達山脈,就是太平洋,而翻內華達山脈非常夭壽,下篇說明。

723 Austin--Middlegate 64miles
724 Middlegate--Fallon(west point of Nevada arid regions of highway 50)--silver spring 73 miles

I read a blog described cycling on highway 50 in Nevada This section is too boring, so I counted the number of trees along the road, but I found counting trees is still boring because there are only 3 trees.

The trees residents grow in towns are not included, I only counted 2 trees, not 3. My sister suggested me to count the number of vehicles to kill the boring paddling time, but to count vehicles of moving faster than lightning is difficult. Or maybe I could try to identify the species killed on the road, their corpses are usually fragmented.

I could still found something interesting. Middlegate, a travel facility just locates about halfway between Austin and Fallon, 111 miles away from each other. Most cyclists can't cycle loaded 111 miles in a day, so Middlegate becomes a must stop for cyclists, including me. Middlegate is not a town, just a well functioned facility, including motel and restaurant. 17 residents, children excluded, are all staffs of the facility.

The logo “Middlegate, in the middle of nowhere” makes this place is more than a highway facility, but a famous sight. Tourists even collect one of the stamps of “brochure of towns on the Nevada highway 50” here. So the most busy hours of the restaurant is not evening when people are off their work, is afternoon when tourists on the road.

But cold spring, another facility locates 14 miles east of Middlegate, receives much less visitors, although it has better dining atmosphere( the kitchen and the tables are in one compartment in Middlegate restaurant.). I only saw an aged couple stopped by for the restroom when having lunch in the mid noon in cold spring. And people resident scattered around Cold spring, mainly live on ranching. People of Middlegate live in walking distance from the facility, or you can call it a community.

Cyclists can camp in Middlegate free of charge(not a former campground), and 3 dollars for shower. Staffs are friendly and helpful, but that's all I got here. Although not in large numbers, a stream of cyclists stop here day by day. Another lonely place, another place I don't have much chance to communicate with people around me. But it's indeed a good rest stop, at least I don't feel sleep deprived when starting my schedule in the early morning for avoid the windy or heating afternoon. Middlegate is my last night in arid Nevada, the next day after Fallon, streets becomes crowded. After that, I cycled through Nevada Cascade and down to Pacific, and to cycle over the high range is quite challenging, describe in the next post.
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Middlegate往西往Fallon方向的沙丘
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Middlegate往西往Fallon方向約20-30英里的沙漠景觀
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Middlegate往西往Fallon方向約20-30英里的沙漠景觀
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Middlegate往西往Fallon方向約20-30英里的沙漠景觀
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Middlegate往西往Fallon方向約20-30英里的鹽漠
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发表于 2018-2-24 10:40 显示全部帖子
Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

7/24 Middlegate--Fallon--Silver springs乾旱路段結束
7/25 Silver springs--Sorensens70英里(高速公路編號50,395,88)
7/26 Sorensens--Carson隘口--Placerville 69英里
(高速公路編號88,emigrant trail)

海拔約2613的Carson隘口,是下抵太平洋的最後難關。

我沒有western express trail(西部快線單車路線)精細地圖,我只有網站簡易的說明與示意圖。我採行這條單車路徑的主要原因包含它提供貫穿猶他州的景觀道路,還有到舊金山渡輪站的最短路徑。但是離開高速公路50進入交通網絡複雜的人口密集區,我不能再一條公路騎到底。

對我來說,最適合路徑的要件不外乎車流少,距離短,在都會區往往有單車道(off street bicycle trail)或單車車道(on street bicycle lane)可使用。而翻越內華達山脈,車流量大的高速公路50絕對不是好選擇。

高速公路50車流量大的原因除了距離優勢,還有它的隘口海拔最低。要麼車多(公路50),要嘛爬高(公路88),我選擇爬高,從海拔約1400的Minden(大約是爬坡起點)爬到2613的Carson隘口,看起來不難,是吧。

事實上,這段爬坡從Google地圖的Alpine village開始,分為三段。第一段沿者溪流爬到Sorensens的5英里(8公里)爬升400,坡度十分不平均,常有短陡坡為了爬上湍急的溪流。而隘口前的6英里(9.6公里)爬升約超過500公尺,坡度約6%,對負重的單車騎士實在辛苦。更何況這條路徑多無路肩,而內華達山區是內華達州與加州的遊樂場兼避暑勝地,車流量仍然不小,騎乘頗有壓力。

幸好我把這段路分成兩天,而翌日離開Carson隘口後不遠,我離開公路88而選擇車少冬季部分封閉的Emigrant trail,爾後下抵海拔僅約600的Placerville從這裡進入人口密集區,怪人也越來越多。白天要錢的與晚上飆車的全世界都有,這不是重點。但至少我在24日直到晚上約10點的斷斷續續雷陣雨之中,找到願意讓我在外面空地露營的加油站(原本計劃是再騎10公里到Lahontan州立休閒遊憩區(Lahontan state recreation area)露營,但是雨一直不停,且該鎮唯一汽車旅館客滿)。雖然他們再三確認我只待一天,且死守『不消費,沒廁所用』的政策,算了,我對好人的標準已經越來越低了。

24 Middlegate--Fallon--Silver springs west point of Nevada arid section
7/25 Silver springs--Sorensens70 miles(highway 50,395,88)
7/26 Sorensens--Carson隘口--Placerville 69 miles
(Highway88,emigrant trail)

Carson pass, 2613 meters above sea level, is the last barrier before Pacific ocean to me.

I don't have detailed map of western express trail, what I have is the brief description and map from the web. I cycled on this bicycle trail is because it provides scenic route in Utah and shortest route to San Francisco. But the bicycle trail doesn't follow single highway in the section west of arid Nevada, which also means it's impossible for me to wholly follow western express trail without a detailed map.

But I understand how the route is decided. Less traffic, shorter distance, scenic route, and also take advantage of existing bike path. Highway 50 is not the best choice of cycling cross Nevada Cascade, It's heavily traveled in California.

One of the reasons that highway 50 is heavily traveled is the pass is much lower in high altitude than other nearby highways. To climb higher with less traffic(highway 88), or climb less with more traffic(highway 50), I chose highway 88. And it seems not to difficult to climb 30 miles(50 kilometers) from Minden(where grade begins) to Carson pass with about 1300 meters altitude gaining, right?

In fact, there are only two strenuous sections of about 6 miles in each one section. The first section is from Alpine village(you could find the location on Google maps) to Sorensens with about 400 meters altitude gain. This section follows a creek and has a lot of “sprints grades” for going upstream of the rapid current. The second section is 6 miles before the pass with 6% grade in average. I think to climb Carson pass with a road bike to a trained cyclist is not difficult, but to me with heavy loads is a torment.

Luckily I divided the suffering section into two days. Beyond the pass, I shortcut on the light traffic Emigrant trail to Placerville. And it seems that unfriendly people is getting more as I am cycling into metropolitan area. But I still met someone to give me a favor. I was allowed to camp just outside the gas station in Silver springs because of the unceasing thunderstorms and no vacancy in the only motel in town.( I planned to camp in Lohontan state recreation area at first). Although the staff and the manager of the gas station confirmed that if I stayed there for just one day several times and insisted the policy of “no consumption, no access to the restroom.”. Whatever, I have lowered standards of “good people” , and the staff is one of them.
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Called lake
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Emigrant trail,路邊很多荊棘,車少且相對保養簡陋
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Emigrant trail
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近Carson隘口路景


发表于 2018-2-27 13:23 显示全部帖子
Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

727 Placerville--Folsom--West Sacramento
728 West Sacramento--Dixon--Fairfield--南舊金山

沒有里程,因為我搞不清楚到底騎了多遠。

我原先前往舊金山的方式是騎到Vallejo,之後搭渡輪過去。Placerville到West Sacramento的路徑還不算太複雜,因為後半段有總長約23英里的America river單車道可騎,而前半段大概就是騎Green valley路之後接Blue Ravine路。但是翌日的路程,穿越數個衛星城市,過了Davis大學區後,我傻眼了。

雖然Google地圖有整人的壞習慣,但是仔細研究與實際騎乘,從Davis到Fairfield的路徑像金庫密碼是因為這裡是農田,道路不密集,錯過一個岔路再下一個距離遙遠,甚至有許多死路。在找不到更佳路徑下,我決定跟Google地圖騎!第一次死跟Google地圖,下場如何呢?

談下場前,跟定Google地圖對我有一個問題:沒人跟我說哪裡該轉。而避免手機沒電,我先照相地圖細節,然後每次記三個該轉彎的路口道路名稱,到了第三個路口再停下來看照片記接下來三個該轉彎的路口。

除了兩處因為施工道路封閉必須繞路,我這樣運作似乎沒有太大問題,除了頗耗時。到了Vacaville,距離出發點約60公里,我已經花費5小時在玩這個左左右右的怪遊戲,而且眼前的道路似乎更『有趣。』

因為旅館預定(我兩天前才下定,想也知道週末沒剩多少選擇,扣除價格太誇張或評分太低的,只剩南舊金山的旅館),我今天一定要到南舊金山。既然本來就打算使用大眾運輸(要不然要游泳過去嗎?),那提早使用大眾運輸吧。於是我從Fairfield上了城際巴士,之後搭捷運到南舊金山。而城際巴士有行李箱放單車,甚至有單車保護裝置,請見照片。而接下來的太平洋海岸公路有些單車客健行者露營地,我打算每天都在那裡過夜,並把這些地點列為未來的目的地

727 Placerville--Folsom--West Sacramento
728 West Sacramento--Dixon--Fairfield--South San Francisco

I don't know exactly how far I rode in the two days .

My original plan was cycle to Vallejo and then take ferry to San Francisco. Following Green valley road, Blue Ravine road, then America river path, The route from Placerville to West Sacramento is not complicate. But the route I took on 728 is about cycling through several satellite cities, which is extremely complicated beyond Davis. It looks like I have to make turns in every mile.

After hitting the road, I understood that the route is so complicated is because this section goes through farms and ranches, which means the road system is not densed, the cyclist may have to cycle much more distance if he misses this junction should make a turn. Even more, dead ends are not rare in this area. After several tries to plan the route myself instead of using Google maps, I realized that there is no better alternative route. So I decided to follow the Google maps route.

To avoid the cellphone run out of power, I took pictures of the planned route on Google maps. But there was a realistic problem of following the Google maps, no one tells me where to make turns. I can't memorize all the roads that I should turn. So I memorize 3 roads that I should make the turn, and then stopped for reading the pic of the map, memorized next 3 roads when I finished this section.

This method worked fine for me, other than 2 sections of closure due to road work. But I spent almost 5 hours to Vacaville, about 60 kilometers from start point, much time than expected. And the “memorize, before I turn” game was not going to over.

It was weekend, I can only reserve a hotel two days before with reasonable price and adequate score in south San Francisco. It seemed to me that I can't make to there. And since use public transportation(the ferry) was one of the plan, why not take advantage of it to cut the cycling distance I jumped on the bus from Fairfield, than took subway to my destination. The bus has something to protect the bicycle in the luggage bay. And the driver was helpful. Finally relieved.

Several bikerhiker campsites along highway 1, the Pacific ocean. I plan to overnight and make them as the destination for each of coming day. Hope everything is going to be fine.
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发表于 2018-2-28 10:00 显示全部帖子
Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

7/29 南舊金山--半月灣州立海灘
7/30 半月灣--日落州立海灘

夏天的加州海灘清晨,就像冬天的淡水,薄霧加細雨。

平流霧,這裡的生成原因是海邊的冷濕空氣,被來自內陸,海拔較高的暖乾空氣壓制,哪裡也去不了(暖空氣在上,冷空氣在下,無法對流)。正午的日照促進空氣對流,會讓海邊露出些許陽光,或是道路蜿蜒至距離大海有些海拔之處,乍現蔚藍海岸。

到美墨邊界的海岸道路,舊金山到Monterey沒有太多路段行在海灘。農田與城鎮,幾乎構成所有路段。公路1號(海岸公路)在人口密集的城鎮會被單車禁行的高速公路取代,幸好這些時候多有自行車道可跟隨,如Marina到Monterey這段幾乎20英里的自行車道幾乎平行於高速公路,或是在單車車道上穿越繁忙的市區。

州立海灘(state beach)的單車客/健行者(biker/ hiker campsites)提供適當的過夜場所,這種營地在太平洋沿岸三州可以發現(Oregon, Washington, California)。一晚約5-10美金,在人潮擁擠的夏季露營地保證我不必預定就有地方過夜。這些營地也多有投幣式的淋浴間。

稍微討論一下食物,當然不是介紹美式食物。我進餐廳往往有填飽肚子之外的其他目的,如充電。在南舊金山,我經由當地人介紹到中式自助餐(吃到飽)晚餐。一人15.95美金,價格還算合理,它的菜色多樣,包含各式水果與蔬菜,更重要的是它不只只有『美式中國菜-不是炒就是炸。』這頓餐讓我想起內華達乾旱區,這段路的第一天我在艷陽下吞了一個貝果當午餐,太乾了只能配水囫圇吞下。翌日我幸運的找到一棵提供些許涼蔭的灌木吞貝果,再隔天,徹底了解我深陷火焰地獄之中,我決定吃一頓肥死人的平價美式傳統早餐-兩顆蛋,兩條培根,兩片塗抹奶油與果醬的吐司,別忘記還有薯餅,那天我居然ㄧ整路都不用進食,而那天正好是乾旱路最艱難之日,78英里4個隘口。那幾天我幾乎靠希望度日,『水喝到飽』的希望,不用巧克力或能量棒,甚至連午餐都可以省略。

事實上,午餐一直以來都是我行進中可有可無的時刻。身上有兩條跟了快兩個月的巧克力,我想它們已經從食物變成吉祥物。

7/29 South San Francisco--Half moon bay state beach
7/30 Half moon bay --sunset state beach

In summer, the cold moisture air in the seashore, is suppressed by the warm dry air from inland in higher altitude in the central California coastline. Here in the early morning is usually foggy and even drizzled. The sunshine might break the grey sky in the mid noon after the seashore cold air is warmed up and has proper convection. Or the highway wind up to the hill above the fog, where I can have a glance of the clear blue ocean.

Highway number 1 to the border, the first section of my journey on the road is San Francisco to Monterey, busy street and farms are the most common scenery instead of the Pacific. The highway is even bicycle prohibited in some sections in cities, and I have to detour. But bike paths or on-street bike lanes are often found in these section, nearly 20 miles of bike path from Marina to Monterey parallels with the highway for example.

Biker/hiker campsites could be found along the Pacific coast, not only California, but Oregon and Washington. These campsites guarantee me a place to overnight without a reservation in the busy summer. It's 5-10 dollars, usually attached with a coin-operated shower room.

Let me talk about the food. I go into a restaurant is usually for something other than food, charge the cellphone for example. I had a Chinese buffet in south San Francisco, where a local recommended it. They have choices of cuisine, and most important, several choices of fruit and vegetables could be found there. And they don't only have “American Chinese cuisine, fried or deep fried. And the buffet brought me the lunchtime in the arid Nevada, on a shadeless plain where I “swallowed” the bagel with water, simply because it was too dry.

I found some taller bushes provided some shades for swallowing the bagel on the next day. Then I understood that I am in the middle of kind of flame hell and to swallow the bagel shouldn't compose a pleasant lunchtime. So I had a full-of-energy traditional North American breakfast(2 bacons, toasts applied butter and jelly, and hashbrowns) on the 3rd day in my arid region journey, and I didn't have to eat in the tough day, 78 miles with 4 passes.

I merely rode on hope instead of energy sticks in the arid Nevada, the hope of “all I could drink water is ahead.” In fact, I don't eat much on my cycling daytime, two chocolate sticks even follow me almost 2 months, I think they are mascots instead of food.
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发表于 2018-2-28 14:30 显示全部帖子
我先生也是个骑行爱好者,和你一样。他的骑行在我眼里就像小孩玩泥巴,玩的很嗨。可完了一天还是快泥巴,玩不出什么花样什么意义。我从个人角度来说反对他户外反对他骑行,因为很在意他的安全问题。家里就这么一位能赚钱的主,出点意外全家老少怎么生活。在我反对无效,反对无果的情况下。我更希望他,既然要玩就玩出点意义,玩出点高度。很羡慕你,替我先生羡慕你。希望你看到留言后请留下一个联络方式,我想如果可能让我家老头也像你这么玩。成全他爱玩的梦,玩点花样出来。
发表于 2018-3-1 23:25 显示全部帖子
7/31 日落州立海灘--Monterey
8/1 Monterey--Greenfield(道路G16, camel valley road)
8/2 Greenfield--Paso Robles

海岸公路斷了,我又回到乾熱的內陸,正在『正午40度』大放送的燥熱之地。

Monterey以南的big Sur是中加州海岸公路風景最優美的路段,蜿蜒於海岸線,有多處拔高之處可眺望太平洋。可惜我無緣欣賞,因為今年五月的土石流把這段路變成了中橫,或是南橫。

我事前完全不知道這個訊息,直到看到『道路於前方xx英里封閉』的走馬燈才意識到。我得繞進山谷,然後騎車水馬龍,舊金山到洛杉磯最便捷也是交通最繁忙的公路101。

海岸公路接到公路101的Greenfield郡道路16號Camel valley road被列為景觀道路,在這個時節的景觀大致是枯黃的乾草或釀酒葡萄田。但是我不太有心情欣賞,因為海拔升高對正午狂暴的氣溫沒有太多抑制作用,反到是陣陣的焚風吹得怒火中燒:翻不完的山頭,是哪招?

更糟的是,這段內陸公路101並不是觀光勝地,旅館很多,但是露營地少見,更別說為單車客/健行者保留的露營場地營位。到了Greenfield,我實在不想再騎20公里到露營地。坐在麥當勞裡,這時救星出現了。

被邀請在庭園露營,這還是頭一遭。但是明顯的這不是好主意,因為言談中我可以推敲邀請者應該不是房子主人,他的姪子明顯的對他的房子庭園出現一個難民不太高興。翌日,我請了邀請者早餐,然後居然被要了10美金的『午餐費』。

怪事一直有,先不用太訝異。公路101不是為單車客設計,或是說這條無聊的道路不太會是旅行者的首選。許多路段被設計成洲際高速公路的樣子,但是沒有繞路的選擇,我只能騎在路況極糟的路肩,有許多小隆起讓單車一路從頭跳到尾,跳得我骨頭都快散了。還有許多駕駛對我按喇叭,我很想跟他們說:要不然你來騎啊,看要騎到哪?

最後總算看到紅色叫單車騎士繞路的牌子,總算離開了瘋狂的路肩。爆了一次胎,因為路肩除了隆起物,還有許多亂七八糟的垃圾與尖銳碎片。今日唯一露營地在高速公路旁邊,但是那段高速公路單車禁行,也就是紅色牌子要我繞路路段,那要怎麼到露營地,太詭異了。

最後我只能下塌旅館,人口多但是觀光客相對海岸線少的市鎮好處是旅館價格不會太誇張。接下來還有一日繞路天,還好進入半島區,人口密集的市鎮越來越多,我可以使用市區道路而不是彈跳路肩,總算有個好消息。

7/31 Sunset state beach--Monterey
8/1 Monterey--Greenfield( county road G16, camel valley road)
8/2 Greenfield--Paso Robles

The coastline highway no.1 is closed from about 40 miles south of Monterey to Ragged point due to landslide. I had to detour to dry and scorching heat inland. The closure section is famous “big Sur”, most scenic section in central California coastline, but I can't cycle through it.

Until I saw the signpost says “highway 1 is closed beyond xx” to understand the terrible news. To detour to inland highway 101 is definitely not a good idea for a cyclist, a major highway with heavy traffic connects San Francisco and Los Angeles and several important cities.

From the coast highway, I took Greenfield county road 16 to Greenfield, a small town on highway 101. The road is listed as a scenic route, connects vast yellowish grasslands and fields of wine grapes. But I don't have the mood to enjoy the scenery, The heat breeze seemed to blow fire to me, and this county road is killing hilly.

I can't find many campground going south from Greenfield back to coastline on highway 101, not to mention hiker/biker campsites. I think the major reason is that this section road is not a busy tourist spot. I arrived Greenfield, almost exhausted, and really didn't want to cycle another 19 km to the nearest campground. I sat in McDonald's for charging, try to figure out the place to overnight. A man approached me and invited me to camp in his yard.

First time to camp in someone's yard, lucky me? Maybe. But I was asked 10 bucks as this man’s lunch fee after I bought him breakfast as my appreciation. And it seemed that the house is belongs to his nephew, who was not happy to see a stranger camp in the yard.

Cycling from Greenfield, I had to cycle on the shoulder of the express freeway in many sections absent in the backup or frontage road. It was terrible not only because the high speed limits, but the awful shoulder shape. I almost bounced all the way due to annoying numerous bumps. I had no idea if to cycle on the express freeway is allowed, but I did hear the horns several times. But sorry, I don't have options.

After the endless bumping shoulder and a puncture due to sharp material spread all the way on shoulder, I finally saw the red sign to tell the cyclist the direction of detour. But the planned campground was on the detour section, how could I get to the campground??

I ended up in a budget motel on 8/2. From there, I had another day before back to the coast. A day featured on winding through several busy cities and I can go through downtown instead of the express freewar shoulder. Wew.
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連結海岸公路與內陸公路的Greenfield郡道路16景觀,釀酒葡萄田
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发表于 2018-3-2 13:27 显示全部帖子
Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

8/5 Lompoc--Carpinteria 州立海灘
8/6 Carpinteria州立海灘--Leo carillo州立海灘
8/7 Leo carillo--洛杉磯,Lomita

在加州海灘,難得看到陽光與夕陽,也有單車騎士聊個開心。而在Lompoc,我想我遇到了吸血鬼家庭。

五年前在衣索比亞中部的『高速公路』,連結該國與肯亞的跨國公路,沒有分隔線,小孩盡情的在公路中間玩耍。這條跨國公路,近首都中北段已被擴建,近國界南段中國人正在改建工程,中段多山區域,似乎看不出來有任何擴建計劃,或是說在這種地形下,公路的改造所費不玆。這裡道路品質不容許駕駛人開快,多數當地人也買不起車,於是成為孩童露天遊樂場。

我不會下結論說美國人開車很糟糕。但是美國主要公路路況良好,美國人平均比較有錢買好車,這都代表車可以開更快,也更有威脅,更何況,在東非會看到滿街跑的露營車和轎車後面黏著一台長拖車嗎?

有規劃,也許是我這趟美國之旅的心得。海灘就海灘,還分州立海灘(state beach)和郡立海灘(county beach),有些還要門票,想像淡水要收門票,不被罵爆才怪,但是這裡收了門票,就有相對應的設施,如救生員等。為單車客/健行者保留的營地,也是獨創的設計。但是,我在Lompoc私人營地,三更半夜的聽到小孩玩耍,大人嬉鬧,還有一隻大狗倏然往我的帳篷撲來,我在擁槍大國一向克制,但是那條狗讓我口出穢言。

穿越城市的道路也許比沙漠路更無聊,也更另我緊張,為了調解身心,我開始算有多少駕駛嘗試讓摩托車以單輪行駛。兩天四台!而一堆炫富的駕駛行為更是加州大觀園,也許他們可以嘗試讓敞棚車雙輪站立,我會馬上起身鼓掌。

這裡當然還有眾多電子警衛森嚴的豪宅,錢要拿來花,拿來灑,還要拿來藏。財富改變不了自私行為,雖然多數駕駛仍守規矩,而自行車道上只有自行車,但是違規停車,無視他人的亂竄並不是新聞。歡迎來到美麗的加州海灘。

8/5 Lompoc--Carpinteria state beach
8/6 Carpinteria state beach--Leo carillo state beach
8/7 Leo carillo--Lomita, los Angeles

Sunshine from the clear blue sky and sunset, I saw something not too common in summertime along the California central coastline. And also, I may encounter a vampire family in Lompoc.

About 5 years ago I cycled on the “international highway” in Ethiopia. From Addis Ababa, the capital of Ethiopia to Kenya border, I could roughly divided the highway into 3 sections by the condition. The north section, near the capital, was in excellent shape. Chinese road crews were renovating the south section. The section in between, mountainous and I didn't see any feasible plan for broadening, was a playground for the kids. The road condition here didn't allow to drive blazing fast. And most villagers didn't afford a car. Children were playing on the road, not fearlessly, but safely.

Most Americans pass cyclists with caution, but they could drive faster due to better road conditions and more budget for the well-functioned vehicles, compares to most other countries in the world. Drive faster indicates drive hazardously when the driver ignores the cyclist. And there are lots rv and sedans with trailers, which are almost absent back to the cycle trip 5 years ago.

Organized, is one of words jumped out when discussing travel in America. State or County beaches makes sure the natural resources are properly maintained and visitor facilities, lifeguards for example, can be expected. Although they are often fee areas. Biker/hiker campsites are another laudable design. But I heard kids play and adults laugh in the only campground in Lompoc at midnight. I usually “behave” in the armed county, but I yelled out whf when their big dog pounced on my tent. Really scary.

Cycled through urban areas were more boring than through arid Nevada to me, and more stressful. For better entertainment, I counted the number of drivers “stand up” his motorcycle. I counted 4 in two days! Along with all kinds of diving behavior of flaunting wealth. Well, please show me a “stand up” convertible car, which is in large numbers on the coastline highway.

Other than that, there are lots of heavily electronic guarded mansions. Some people show off their wealth, but deliberately protect the wealth at the same time. But the wealth can't change the selfishness in some people. Few always disappointing campers in the private campground, few aggressive and rude drivers. Although most of the drivers are carefully to share the road with cyclists. Welcome to California coastline, with beauty and something I can't really properly tell.
Carpinteria 州立海灘,單車客健行者露營地已滿,我們被安排到為殘障人士的保留的普通營地.jpg

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Carpinteria 州立海灘,單車客健行者露營地已滿,我們被安排到為殘障人士的保留的普通營地
Carpinteria州立海灘日落,難得霧氣未遮蓋所有日光.jpg

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Carpinteria州立海灘日落,難得霧氣未遮蓋所有日光
Carpinteria州立海灘之後與高速公路平行的自行車道.jpg

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Carpinteria州立海灘之後與高速公路平行的自行車道
Lompoc爾後,1號公路重回海岸線路景.jpg

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Lompoc爾後,1號公路重回海岸線路景
point Mugu州立海灘附近,違規臨停的亂七八糟,還有果汁攤,若是人再黑一點,瘦一些,就變成墾丁大街了.jpg

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point Mugu州立海灘附近,違規臨停的亂七八糟,還有果汁攤,若是人再黑一點,瘦一些,就變成墾丁大街了
point Mugu州立海灘附近,整路最美的視野.jpg

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point Mugu州立海灘附近,整路最美的視野
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point Mugu州立海灘附近
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路景
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Ventura鎮的海灘與自行車道


发表于 2018-3-5 13:21 显示全部帖子
Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

8/5 Lompoc--Carpinteria 州立海灘
8/6 Carpinteria州立海灘--Leo carillo州立海灘
8/7 Leo carillo--洛杉磯,Lomita

在加州海灘,難得看到陽光與夕陽,也有單車騎士聊個開心。而在Lompoc,我想我遇到了吸血鬼家庭。

五年前在衣索比亞中部的『高速公路』,連結該國與肯亞的跨國公路,沒有分隔線,小孩盡情的在公路中間玩耍。這條跨國公路,近首都中北段已被擴建,近國界南段中國人正在改建工程,中段多山區域,似乎看不出來有任何擴建計劃,或是說在這種地形下,公路的改造所費不玆。這裡道路品質不容許駕駛人開快,多數當地人也買不起車,於是成為孩童露天遊樂場。

我不會下結論說美國人開車很糟糕。但是美國主要公路路況良好,美國人平均比較有錢買好車,這都代表車可以開更快,也更有威脅,更何況,在東非會看到滿街跑的露營車和轎車後面黏著一台長拖車嗎?

有規劃,也許是我這趟美國之旅的心得。海灘就海灘,還分州立海灘(state beach)和郡立海灘(county beach),有些還要門票,想像淡水要收門票,不被罵爆才怪,但是這裡收了門票,就有相對應的設施,如救生員等。為單車客/健行者保留的營地,也是獨創的設計。但是,我在Lompoc私人營地,三更半夜的聽到小孩玩耍,大人嬉鬧,還有一隻大狗倏然往我的帳篷撲來,我在擁槍大國一向克制,但是那條狗讓我口出穢言。

穿越城市的道路也許比沙漠路更無聊,也更另我緊張,為了調解身心,我開始算有多少駕駛嘗試讓摩托車以單輪行駛。兩天四台!而一堆炫富的駕駛行為更是加州大觀園,也許他們可以嘗試讓敞棚車雙輪站立,我會馬上起身鼓掌。

這裡當然還有眾多電子警衛森嚴的豪宅,錢要拿來花,拿來灑,還要拿來藏。財富改變不了自私行為,雖然多數駕駛仍守規矩,而自行車道上只有自行車,但是違規停車,無視他人的亂竄並不是新聞。歡迎來到美麗的加州海灘。

8/5 Lompoc--Carpinteria state beach
8/6 Carpinteria state beach--Leo carillo state beach
8/7 Leo carillo--Lomita, los Angeles

Sunshine from the clear blue sky and sunset, I saw something not too common in summertime along the California central coastline. And also, I may encounter a vampire family in Lompoc.

About 5 years ago I cycled on the “international highway” in Ethiopia. From Addis Ababa, the capital of Ethiopia to Kenya border, I could roughly divided the highway into 3 sections by the condition. The north section, near the capital, was in excellent shape. Chinese road crews were renovating the south section. The section in between, mountainous and I didn't see any feasible plan for broadening, was a playground for the kids. The road condition here didn't allow to drive blazing fast. And most villagers didn't afford a car. Children were playing on the road, not fearlessly, but safely.

Most Americans pass cyclists with caution, but they could drive faster due to better road conditions and more budget for the well-functioned vehicles, compares to most other countries in the world. Drive faster indicates drive hazardously when the driver ignores the cyclist. And there are lots rv and sedans with trailers, which are almost absent back to the cycle trip 5 years ago.

Organized, is one of words jumped out when discussing travel in America. State or County beaches makes sure the natural resources are properly maintained and visitor facilities, lifeguards for example, can be expected. Although they are often fee areas. Biker/hiker campsites are another laudable design. But I heard kids play and adults laugh in the only campground in Lompoc at midnight. I usually “behave” in the armed county, but I yelled out whf when their big dog pounced on my tent. Really scary.

Cycled through urban areas were more boring than through arid Nevada to me, and more stressful. For better entertainment, I counted the number of drivers “stand up” his motorcycle. I counted 4 in two days! Along with all kinds of diving behavior of flaunting wealth. Well, please show me a “stand up” convertible car, which is in large numbers on the coastline highway.

Other than that, there are lots of heavily electronic guarded mansions. Some people show off their wealth, but deliberately protect the wealth at the same time. But the wealth can't change the selfishness in some people. Few always disappointing campers in the private campground, few aggressive and rude drivers. Although most of the drivers are carefully to share the road with cyclists. Welcome to California coastline, with beauty and something I can't really properly tell.
Carpinteria 州立海灘,單車客健行者露營地已滿,我們被安排到為殘障人士的保留的普通營地.jpg

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Carpinteria 州立海灘,單車客健行者露營地已滿,我們被安排到為殘障人士的保留的普通營地
Carpinteria州立海灘日落,難得霧氣未遮蓋所有日光.jpg

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Carpinteria州立海灘日落,難得霧氣未遮蓋所有日光
Carpinteria州立海灘之後與高速公路平行的自行車道.jpg

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Carpinteria州立海灘之後與高速公路平行的自行車道
Lompoc爾後,1號公路重回海岸線路景.jpg

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Lompoc爾後,1號公路重回海岸線路景
point Mugu州立海灘附近,違規臨停的亂七八糟,還有果汁攤,若是人再黑一點,瘦一些,就變成墾丁大街了.jpg

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point Mugu州立海灘附近,違規臨停的亂七八糟,還有果汁攤,若是人再黑一點,瘦一些,就變成墾丁大街了
point Mugu州立海灘附近,整路最美的視野.jpg

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point Mugu州立海灘附近,整路最美的視野
point Mugu州立海灘附近.jpg

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point Mugu州立海灘附近
point Mugu州立海灘附近1.jpg

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point Mugu州立海灘附近
q.jpg

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路景
Ventura鎮的海灘與自行車道.jpg

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Ventura鎮的海灘與自行車道


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