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一路向南,穿越美洲大陆单车旅行-美洲篇

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发表于 2018-3-7 00:51 显示全部帖子

Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

8/8 Lomita,洛杉磯-Doheny州立海灘,Dana point鎮
8/9 Doheny州立海灘--San Elijo州立海灘,Cardiff鎮
8/10 San Elijo--聖地牙哥--Tijuana,墨西哥
8/11 Tijuana,墨西哥

最後在美國的3天,有許多有趣的故事。墨西哥留待下篇貼文。

這兩天的州立海灘都位於人口聚集的小鎮旁,小鎮旁邊有鐵軌,而這裡的火車司機,每當過平交道總會拼命鳴警笛(應該是標準程序),響徹雲霄的叭叭叭,而聖地牙哥更絕,除了火車還有地面捷運,兩個較量式的叭叭叭!雖然火車非24小時營業,但只休息大約6小時,直到半夜都還可以聽到火車叭叭叭,我和另一位來自智利,使用健行者/單車客營地的旅客開玩笑的說,這是美式文化之一,火車警笛震耳欲聾,居然沒有居民抗議。這位旅客使用大眾交通工具,也就是說,只要使用非機動車輛,都可以利用健行者/單車客營地。

但是有些旅客投機取巧,使得Doheny州立海灘關閉了健行者/單車客營地,相較於San Elijo州立海灘加強健行者/單車客營地使用條款的做法,Doheny的作法十足的台灣作風,雖然管理人員善心的找了一個備用營地給我(我的資訊來源仍顯示Doheny有健行者/單車客營地)。投機取巧的方法例如:汽車開到附近停,然後行李綁在單車上,騎單車進去要求健行者/單車客營地等。

在健行者/單車客露營地遇到一些友善的旅人與單車騎士,但是離開這裡不是如此。美國的旅遊有規劃的旅遊政策設施也許也是我在路上感受不到民眾的友善的原因之一。與其攔下單車旅人,邀請他們入室喝茶,像我在土耳其的經歷,這裡居民幫助旅人的方式也許更傾向使用網路資源,如couch surfing與warm shower等,而眾多的單車騎士與旅人,若每個人都隨意攔居民問路問資訊,他們一定深感困擾。在旅遊業有規劃的先進國家,旅人應該使用正式資源,而非到處打聽,騷擾良家金髮美女。合法擁槍也是原因之一,人的本能在受到威脅,或是感到威脅時常會過度反應,過度反應加上擁槍就可能產生悲劇,另外,民眾不但可以合法擁槍,更有錢收集槍,這些也許都是居民十足的防衛心的因素。

進入墨西哥後,我開始懷念美國的自行車道。穿越洛杉磯,大致有兩段自行車道可跟隨-威尼斯(Venice)海灘以北與連結洛杉磯河、長灘,直到新港灘(Newpoint beach)的自行車道。續往南騎直到邊界,一路幾乎都有自行車道,不論是分隔設計還是直接在道路上畫一條限自行車使用的車道。其中一段自行車道擦過軍事基地,之後穿過軍營,但是我非居民,守衛無法掃描紀錄我的護照,無法讓我穿越軍營,只能騎在高速公路路肩。這段路程有十足的設施避免單車騎士使用高速公路或繁忙的市區道路,或至少有足夠的標誌提醒機動車輛駕駛人注意路上的自行車。

8/8 Lomita, Los Angeles--Doheny state beach, Dana point
8/9 Doheny--San Elijo state beach, Cardiff
8/10 San Elijo--San Diego--Tijuana, Mexico
8/11 Tijuana, Mexico

Many interesting things in the last 3days in US. Left about the story of Mexico in the next post.

Doheny and San Elijo state beaches are located near the populated towns, which alongside a railway. It seems that the train sirens to cross the road is a standard procedure. The siren resounds across the skies, and campground of course. And there is not only a train but a trolley in San Diego, the train and the trolley sirens loudly as if they are in competition. I and a Chile backpacker made fun of the shouting train, wondered why the residents aren't annoyed with the noises. The noises only take a break about 6 hours a day in the midnight, when the train doesn't run.

Everyone is allowed to use the biker/hiker campsites if he is not travel by motorized vehicles. But some opportunists speculate it, park his motorized vehicle nearby and cycle loaded into the campground, ask for a site at biker/hiker campsites for example. Doheny closed the biker/hiker campsites for the reason, although the ranger was helpful and gave me a overflow campsite( I had old information that Doheny has biker/hiker campsites). San Elijo strengthened the regulations of using hiker/biker campsites.

Nice to talk to the campers and cyclists in the biker/hiker campsites. But outside the campsites, I could not only see the sign of “no trespassing”, but to feel it. Having a gun, having money to collect guns might be a reason. It seems to me that human naturally overreact under the threat, or under the “feeling like a threat”. With holding a gun, people could claim other’s life instinctively in few second, without much consideration, and tragedy sometimes.

But I think that there is another reason to see people act protectively. That is, tourism industry is organized in the country. Instead of stopping the passing cycle traveler to have a tea like I experienced in Turkey, people who can or willing to give a hand tend to utilizing the web resources, couchsurfing and warm shower for example, to assist the traveler. And I can see so many bicycle travelers and backpackers on the road, it must be annoying to residents if every traveler always simply stops the locals for any kind of assist. In an advanced country with well organized tourism industry, travelers are expected to use the former resource. That's my theory.

I missed the cycle paths in US. Two major off-street paths to cycle through Los Angeles, one took me to Venice beach and another took me from Los Angeles river, Long beach, all the way to Newpoint beach. And I could almost find all the way to the border the off-street cycle path or on-street cycle lane. One section of bicycle path even winds through the military area, but I was not allowed to follow all the way of the “military base cycle path”. The last section of the path goes through military camps and facilities, limited to cyclists with ID so the guard can barcode and record it. I have to cycle on the highway shoulder in the about 8 miles section. In California coastline, I found the authorities concerns try their best to avoid people cycle on the highway or busy main road, or at least signs to remind the driver that the cyclist is on the road.
穿越住宅區,繞道繁忙主要道路的自行車路徑,繞得非常徹底,攝於San Clement.jpg


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穿越住宅區,繞道繁忙主要道路的自行車路徑,繞得非常徹底,攝於San Clement
高速公路自行車道.jpg

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高速公路自行車道
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路景,Caspitrano beach
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路景,Oceanside北方
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路景,San Clement
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洛杉磯長灘海邊自行車道
文章提到擦過軍營的自行車道.jpg

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文章提到擦過軍營的自行車道
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文章提到擦過軍營的自行車道
小心單車穿越(bike crossing).jpg

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小心單車穿越(bike crossing)
原本以為是『友誼自行車道(MEXICO=墨西哥)』,結果是死路一條.jpg

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原本以為是『友誼自行車道(MEXICO=墨西哥)』,結果是死路一條


发表于 2018-3-7 15:12 显示全部帖子
Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

8/10 San Elijo--聖地牙哥--Tijuana,墨西哥
8/11 Tijuana,墨西哥
8/12 Tijuana--Ensenada,110公里

騎單車過墨西哥邊界,要跟隨人群,走過行人天橋,通關與行李檢查,而非隨機動車輛走馬路通關,雖然行人天橋和馬路都有單車禁行的標誌。而這個海關(San Ysidro)也許是我遇過最友善的海關人員,我拿了入境卡,總覺得上面的停留效期非6個月(旅客一般都會獲得6個月的停留期限),向海關人員確認,他跟我說:『你要6個月啊!』,接著他幫我『技術性延長停留期限』,帶我到收費櫃檯繳費領收據,接著在入境卡塗塗改改。相信我,他不是想索賄,而是源於一開始的溝通不良,墨西哥延長停留期限本來就是可行且需要費用的手續,但是在首都辦理十分困難且耗時。非常感謝他願意配合協助,而不是冷酷的叫我到首都延簽。

Tijuana和大多數墨西哥邊境城市擁有不太好的名聲,也因此有著格外便宜的旅館價格,Aqua rio週間一晚冷氣房含稅僅約新臺幣1000元。我無法說『這裡實際很安全』。但墨西哥政府雖然無法剷除毒品幫派勢力,卻已經盡量把這些危險因素與觀光區隔離,在Tijuana主要觀光街道Av. revolucion到處可見巡邏刑警。而這些勢力一般也不會找旅客麻煩,但是衍生的偷搶問題倒是需要格外小心。與墨國多數地區類似,Tijuana有些旅人勿進區域,如東部郊區。

我在這裡多停留一天,除了讓自己的行程比較符合勞基法外,我看過的所以遊記都把Tijuana到距離30公里的Rosarito的交通混亂當作惡夢。有些單車騎士走上單車禁行的收費高速公路,因為有寬闊與良好路肩。但是若被攔下來呢?我問到的資訊是:別傻了,你一定會被攔下來,而且不要以為賄賂一定行的通。而且路上警察很多,一直被攔下來只是增加困擾。

因此我選擇週六早上出發,因為看起來這個城市週五不睡覺,一堆開到半夜的bar。先走市區道路,而非一開始就走省道(公路1號),果然車少。接下來公路1號與收費高速公路平行的海岸一堆市鎮,車輛無法開快,有種在開發中國家騎車的快感。接下來1號公路走內陸,與高速公路分道揚鑣,因為要翻山,所以不會有一堆不走收費道路想省錢的貨車。

接下來我不續走1號公路,而是沿者3號公路翻越baja California的『中央山脈』到東側海灘。希望山路不要太難纏。

8/10 San Elijo--San Diego--Tijuana,Mexico
8/11 Tijuana,Mexico
8/12 Tijuana--Ensenada 110km

If you cycle into Mexico from San Ysidro like me, you should follow the pedestrians, walk the bike on the cross bridge instead of cycling on the main road. Although “bicycle prohibited” could be found on both the cross bridge and the road. Customs officer in Ysidro may be the most friendly one I have met among countries. Due to mis communication(It seemed so), he only gave me one month of stay period. After understanding I only guaranteed one month of stay instead of 6 months like most cases, I sincerely talked to him. Instead of kicking me off, he “extent the validity” for me, which I could do it in Mexico city with lots of hassles. The extension procedure is not free, but I got a recipe and paid the fees in another counter. Trust me, it's not a new trick of getting a bride.

Tijuana receives bad reputation like most Mexican border cities. I can't tell you that it's secure but I did find the major travel areas, Av. Revolucion for example, is heavily patrolled. The police even help to stop the traffic at junctions for pedestrians to pass. I think it's like I heard about Mexico: there's always some places you should avoid, but the police seems to try to isolate the risks from the tourist area. And one thing was good, I didn't see any police to seek bonus by giving the tourist a hard time.

But cycling from Tijuana to Rosarito on the freeway is a nightmare in many blogs, or almost all blogs I browsed. Some cyclists took chance to cycle on the tollway which is bicycle prohibited. I don't think to use the tollway is a good idea, because so many patrols on the road and I must be stopped( A cyclist I met prove that later). What should I do to be stopped? No need to figure out the answer, just avoid the toll road.

So I decided to stay in Tijuana for another day and started off on Saturday morning. It seems that Tijuana is a sleepless city on Friday night by numerous bars open till midnight. The strategy of cycling on Saturday morning and use the city road instead of freeway in the first half section From Tijuana to Rosarito worked. Much fewer traffic than expected. After Rosarito, about 35 km through busy towns along the coastline, vehicles can't move fast here and I got some thrilling fun to cycle in the section. The final section of 8/12 is to go inland with a pass in about 400 meters altitude, where overland truckers choose the toll highway along the coastline to avoid the climb. Not a terrible day.

Beyond Ensenada, I will take the freeway 3 to bypass the busy highway 1 for about 400 km. Huge climb on highway 3 to the central range in Baja, than descend to eastern coastline. Hope the less traffic makes the climb worth.
Ensenada鎮與港口.jpg

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Ensenada鎮與港口
Tijuana邊界拱門,若沒有三星電視牆可能會更特殊.jpg

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Tijuana邊界拱門,若沒有三星電視牆可能會更特殊
Tijuana觀光街Revolucion的3個景點,馬雅石像,有黑色條紋的馬(又是馬又是斑馬,太靠近照相當然要繳錢),還有邊界拱門.jpg

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Tijuana觀光街Revolucion的3個景點,馬雅石像,有黑色條紋的馬(又是馬又是斑馬,太靠近照相當然要繳錢),還有邊界拱門
Tijuana馬雅石像.jpg

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Tijuana馬雅石像
公路重回海岸線,從這裡不再有收費高速公路.jpg

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公路重回海岸線,從這裡不再有收費高速公路
少數有路肩的公路海岸段,一堆高級旅館或正在興建的建築.jpg

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少數有路肩的公路海岸段,一堆高級旅館或正在興建的建築
位於65km的小鎮la Mission,從這裡公路繞進內陸,與收費高速公路分道揚鑣.jpg

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位於65km的小鎮la Mission,從這裡公路繞進內陸,與收費高速公路分道揚鑣

发表于 2018-3-8 09:50 显示全部帖子
8/14 Ensenada--Ojos negros 40公里
8/15-8/17 Ojos negros

旅行的重點之一,是沿路遇到的人物。

應該是去年底吧,我的手機電池壽命結束帶來不小的麻煩。當時我了解這款由『救救這家公司(HTC,help this company)』製造的手機的內建電池雖然不會爆炸,但是擁有低於平均的壽命,而且這不是通用的電池,也不是大眾機,手機行多無電池存貨。當時手機行拒絕多進貨一顆電池,也就是我多買一顆電池備用的要求。

想必這四個月找到插座就充電的行為大幅降低電池壽命,它還苟延殘喘,但是幾次無法充飽電的狀況(充電充到某個數值即無法再向上)使得我得防範未然。回到8/14,週末的Ensenada是不夜城,我住的旅館的早餐時間『8-12點』可看出一些端倪。睡眠品質不佳下,翌日我有些勉強的前進到Ojos negros,幾乎全程上坡的40公里。當晚手機再度無法充飽電,加上彌補睡眠不足的休息日,讓我決定翌日當跟屁蟲跟著旅館主人回到Ensenada找人救救這家公司,不對,是手機。我在街上找到貼有HTC小綠人標籤的手機行,就決定在這裡換電池了。

但是電池進貨需要時間。我考慮過邊前進邊等電池,但是長程公車費用不錙且搭乘時間長讓我打消這個念頭。我決定按照手機行的指示:下週一致電確認是否到貨。若否,我再打算。而一週的長住,以便宜的費用待在住宿設施,也許比免費的恰當。

Mireya算是這間旅館的主人。她除了顧旅館,顧旅館對面的雜貨店,還要通勤到Ensenada唸書(大學)。Ojos negros,意即黑色的眼睛,源於曾經有兩個大洞座落在這片山谷,並沒有太多事情可做。因此她她開車到Ensenada時,我就當跟屁蟲。我們可以用英語溝通,她也樂意帶我到處逛,到處吃,其中魚tacos是當地有名的食物。而『自由活動』時間除了閒逛,也可搭車到附近景點,如la Bafadora,一個海洋間歇泉,肇因於海水被困在海蝕洞的空氣擠壓而噴發向上。

遇到友善熱心的人一直都是旅行最大的幸運,也是最值得期待的事情之一。

8/14 Ensenada--Ojos negros 40 km
8/15-8/17 Ojos negros

One of the highlight in a journey is the people who we met.

I remembered it was end of last year when the battery of my cellphone was dead and caused a huge trouble. I visited the cellphone shop and realized that the cellphone, made by “help this company(HTC), has a battery of shorter life expectancy than average. And the type of the cellphone was not popular so the shop had to request the battery from the main company. The staff of the shop rejected my request of buying another spare battery. So I had a untrustworthy cellphone with a in-cell battery in the journey.

Charge the cellphone wherever there is a plug must much shorten the battery life in the last four months. The battery is still usable but sometimes can't be fully charged. Back to 8/14, Ensenada on weekend is a sleepless city, and it made everyone sleeplessness. And the tourist could find out it by the complimentary breakfast time:8am-12pm. Under inadequate sleep, I struggled to Ojos Negros next day, 40 km of most gently uphill. The cellphone battery can't be fully charged that night again, and I need a rest day for more sleep, I went back to Ensenada with Mireya, one of the owner of the hotel. I luckily found the logo of HTC on the window of the cellphone shop, and decided to replace the battery there.

But it takes time to send the new battery to Ensenada. I thought about keep going and wait for the battery on the way, but the long distance bus is expensive and inefficient. Instead, I chose to stay in Ojos negros until next Monday, and call the shop as the staff instructed, to confirm the battery arrives the shop or not then. And to stay in a hotel with small fees is better than stay somewhere free, in my opinion.

Mireya is the host of Ojos negros hotel. Other than works in the hotel and the grocery store on the opposite side of the street, she has to go to the university in Ensenada. Ojos negros, which means black eyes in Spanish, was named for the two big holes(no longer exist) in the valley, doesn't have much to do. Mireya is helpful and glad to take me to Ensenada, show me around the city and eat around the local food, the fish tacos is one of the most famous in Ensenada. And I could walk around by myself and go to near sights, la Bafadora, a must-see marine geyser for example, result of air trapped in a sea cave, exploding the sea water upwards.


It always lucky to meet someone helpful and friendly, and look forward to on the way.
Ensenada到Obispo negros路景,有許多巨石覆蓋山頭.jpg

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Ensenada到Obispo negros路景,有許多巨石覆蓋山頭
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Ensenada到Obispo negros路景
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Ensenada到Obispo negros路景
la Bafadora海景.jpg

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la Bafadora海景
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la Bafadora海洋間歇泉,與一位同行當地旅伴
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la Bafadora海洋間歇泉
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la Bafadora海洋間歇泉
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la Bafadora海洋間歇泉
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la Bafadora海洋間歇泉
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la Bafadora街道
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Taco(玉米餅)攤


发表于 2018-3-9 16:30 显示全部帖子
Please read the English version in the second half of this article.
糟糕的網路,無法上傳相片
8/24 Ojos Negros--Valle de Trinidad 80公里
總算再次上路了。
考慮再三,我實在不應該拜託他人處理手機電池的雜事,而且待在旅館雖然無聊,但便宜(美麗的Mireya給我很大的折扣)且不會製造任何麻煩,無聊就忍忍吧。
但是我等手機的Ojos Negros吃的非常有限,墨西哥玉米餅(tacos,嚴格說來比較像沒捲起來的小春捲,裡面放肉,香菜和洋蔥)攤販到處都是,口味一般,價格卻有天壤之別,那種從像台灣沙威瑪鐵柱刮下來的調味豬肉(網路有taco meat的食譜)的taco相對便宜(兩個約1美金,豬肉片的一個要1美金,正常人一餐需要吃3個左右),但是旅館對面的Taco攤的用餐環境…,但是我又不喜歡他們使用保麗龍外帶盒,而唯一餐廳不便宜,何況也不能天天吃餐廳吧。然後唯一一家pizza攤雖簡陋但卻像在賣衣服一般有五種pizza尺寸可選,價格一般。
在這裡我吃過最好的食物是旅館女傭Mariya準備的午餐。Mireya在這幾天非常幫忙,而這段路車輛少,路況算好,這也是我繞道的原因,雖然得在炙熱天氣翻過海拔約1200公尺的隘口(海拔不夠高,白天降溫效果不佳),但是未來到了市區或主要道路…,有網誌寫到:我很興奮成為混亂交通的一部分。我可不想!
Terrible wifi, I can't upload pics.
8/24 Ojos Negros--Valle de Trinidad 80 km
After thinking twice, I should not ask beautiful Mireya to handle the triva matters of receiving new cellphone battery.  And to stay in the hotel, where Mireya gave me a huge discount, doesn't cause any inconvenience to anyone.  Well , it's better to wait here.
But there's very limited food choices in Ojos Negros, 5 taco stands at least, a pizza place, and a restaurant(also limited choices), and a hamburger restaurant only open for the dinner.  That's all.  Taco with pork slices(about 1 US dollar each) is much more expensive than taco with pork chops with other ingredients(about 0.5dollar each), and it seems that an adult needs 3 tacos at least for the meal.  The second one, tastes ok, but the dining environment of the taco stands across the street from the hotel….  But I don't like to use the to-go box made of styrofoam, a non degradable material and I think we should reduce the usage.  Only restaurant in Ojos Negros has limited selection with a bit expensive prices.  A pizza place, simple but interestingly provides 5 different sizes of pizza, maybe the most acceptable food to me.
The best food I had in town is Maria(the hotel maid) prepared for me and Mireya.  And Mireya really helped a lot my stay.  To journey on 8/24 is featured by the friendly drivers and fewer traffic volume, and that's why I detour and cycle through the two passes about 1200 meters in altitude in the roasting temperature.  But the cities are still unavoidable in the future journey.  A blog says: I am excited to be the part of the chaos city road.  But I don't want!

Please read the English version in the second half of this article.
8/25 Valle de Trinidad--San Felipe 130公里,50公里搭車
下加州半島,夏季東西海岸氣溫大不同。
西岸有東岸缺乏的涼流調節,夏季平均氣溫較低,雖然不像加州海岸一般早晚易起霧,但是早晚氣溫有時只有約20度。
東岸的San Felipe是個惡魔,盛夏時節,正午到下午兩三點左右的氣溫可能到40-50度。最好的策略是一早出發,中午收工。可是,今天的里程無法中午收工。
雖然從Valle de Trinidad到海岸的海拔落差約900公尺,但是逆風遇上緩下坡,下坡有跟沒有一樣。到了海岸線岔路口,離目的地50公里,一間我原本很期待的雜貨店,關門大吉只剩一隻狗在鬼叫。我應該帶更多水,但是重量會減慢速度,這間我被告知可靠飲水來源,居然只剩回憶。
眼前是50公里的筆直無趣道路,還有跟我作對的熱風,吹來來自地獄的火焰,別鬧了,收工吧。我攔到了一對美國夫婦,載我到平價旅館,還好心的問我需不需要醫生,也許需要,因為我看到雜貨店變成鬼屋,心都碎了。最後這對夫婦給我一瓶啤酒治療破碎的心。
San Felipe距離美國邊界約200公里,是一個漁村也是觀光小鎮,附近有許多露營場地,但是在這種氣溫下,我寧願多花點錢住旅館,另外,為了安全理由,觀光區的露營場地要慎選(非觀光區看狀況),最好是有圍牆,有守衛駐守的,尤其使用毫無防備的帳篷而非露營車,而這類露營地也較昂貴,雖然有時候單車騎士會有折扣。墨西哥旅館價格相對便宜,例如San Felipe平價冷氣房約台幣900。而非觀光小鎮Valle de Trinidad的唯一旅館一晚約500,也有冷氣。
8/25 Valle de Trinidad--San Felipe 130km,50 km hitchhik
Baja California, west coastline and east costline have different average temp in summer.
The cold current on the west coastline lower the temp of land.  But east coastline, lack of ocean current adjustment, can sore up to 50 degrees in midsummer.  I usually start early, and arrive in a the early afternoon.  But the long distance today doesn't allow me to arrive early.
Descent from 900 meters in altitude in Valle de Trinidad to the coastline highway in 80 km and then 50 km straight line to San Felipe, it should not be a difficult day.  But the headwind, not terrible but strong enough to slow me down, made today a frustrating one.  More than that, the grocery store at the junction of Trans Baja highway(highway 3) and coastline highway(highway 5), seemed to shut down permanently.  I needed really water, not illusion of water arised from heat.  I should bring more water, and I knew that.  But I don't want to ride a too heavy bicycle to lengthen the time on the road, which also means more water need.  The store, which I was told the reliable water resources yesterday, betrayed me.
In front was 50 km motor way with wide should, not so bad but the headwind brought more than horrible heat but water need. But I can't find more water.  Time to call it off.   I luckily hichhiked a truck driven by a kind American couple.  They drove me to a budget hotel in San Felipe and asked me if I needed a doctor.  Maybe I really needed a doctor because of the broken heart to see the only creature in the store was a barking dog.  But the couple gave me a beer to cure my broken heart in the end. Just kidding but the beer is real.
San Felipe is a fishing town and also a tourists spot.  Several campground around here.  But I don't want to camp under this temp, and the hotel is can comparatively cheap.(San Felipe 30 us dollars and Valle de Trinidad 20US dollars for example, room with air conditioner).  And I know that it's better to find a guarded and fenced campground for security reasons in tourists spot especially a tourist use the unprotected tent instead of RV( It depends on in non tourists spot).  And this kind of campground is usually more expensive, the owner sometimes gives the cyclist discount though.
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发表于 2018-3-10 13:40 显示全部帖子
8/27 San Felipe--Puertecitos 86公里
8/28 Puertecitos--Bahia San Luis Gonzaga 70公里

有趣的兩天,一天我被熱醒,一天被冷醒;一天我被請吃午餐,一天有人跟我要食物。

San Felipe往南直到與貫穿下加州半島的1號公路的岔路口,是這次下加州半島旅程中最荒涼的路段。但是這段路程有新鋪設好的公路(新的重點在於路邊比較沒有輪胎皮等亂七八糟可能造成爆胎的垃圾),極為稀疏的車流,連著名景點『oh dip shit(x的,路上有很多隕石坑)』都被填補平整,這些良好路況可稍微抵消正午40度酷熱的磨難。我想路上的大洞不是重點,而是這些大洞居然可以存在那麼久而成為景點。

若是能克服安全問題,下加州半島海灘是許多美國人的度假置產天堂,San Felipe的市區有許多地產仲介公司,專門協助外國人在這裡購買度假別墅,這些豪宅在San Felipe到Puertecitos的路段為數眾多,但是許多已經荒廢。只剩『Se venden』等待出售的招牌。

8/27的半途有間雜貨店,或是稱為綠洲也不為過。前行約30公里我被攔下來午餐,這群旅客駕車往San Felipe,正午時分就在路旁搭棚子休息,在這同時,我遇到第一位將貫穿整個下加州半島單車旅行騎士,這位墨西哥當地人,騎著21段變速車,沒有貨架,所有行李綁在龍頭,更厲害的是的大約10公升的水罐裝滿後直接掛在把手上,這樣還能平衡,實在是太神奇了。

8/27的露營地位於Puertecitos,這是以漁業與觀光為主的村落。招牌是緊鄰海洋的天然溫泉,想必冬季十分熱門,但是現在幾乎沒有旅客。露營一晚10美金,是下加州半島最常見的露營形式--payata,簡易木棚備有插座。經營者中年婦女不像是當地人,我很佩服她來這裡開發生活的勇氣,但是這個村落有明顯的『這裡是我的財產』的氛圍,例如Puerteticos的村名招牌旁邊寫著『停車,前面是私人土地』。另外,雖稱為環保營地,卻只給我一杯冰水解渴,翌日行程的飲用水得到唯一的雜貨店買,因而製造寶特瓶垃圾,而且這裡是不回收寶特瓶的。這裡還有冬季開放的房間,夏季因為每天電力只提供4小時(晚上6-10點),房間過於悶熱而不售客。持續到半夜的高溫讓我無法待在帳棚,索性打地舖露天而眠,帳棚變成儲藏室,倒也不賴。

翌日的景觀大不同。道路不再幾乎筆直的貫穿乾旱的海邊平原,而是蜿蜒於緊鄰大海的岩漠山丘,這樣的地形不再適合興建度假村,少數人口稀疏的聚落位於少數狹小的海口平原。而Bahia San Luis Gonzaga是神奇的地方,一間有空調的度假旅館有警衛駐守,一晚約80美金。另外還有冷氣開放的小吃店與貨源充足的超市,老闆兼營海邊露營地,也有昂貴的旅館房間與我最後下榻的mobile home,一晚600peso(約台幣1000),有空調與衛浴,相較於一晚100peso但是洗澡還要再多付45的露營地,倒還合理,更何況mobile home的位置能接受到超市的無線網路訊號,雖然30分鐘15peso並不便宜。打著『環保旅社』的Alfonisa,有著不環保的鄰居,也就是我住的mobile home,屋內的冷氣沒有遙控,不管有沒有旅客24小時運轉,但是我想若非如此,鐵皮屋的設計在炙熱的夏季會讓屋內的傢俱燒起來。但是冷氣也開得太強了吧。

這段路程也有怪事,我被衣衫藍縷的人攔下要水和食物,他怎麼會出現在這個鳥不生蛋的地方呢?最後他應該知道我也沒多餘飲用水,只拿了一些乾糧,駕車族應該比單車騎士好要到飲水,但是我相信多數的駕駛因為安全疑慮而不願意停車。
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发表于 2018-3-12 11:49 显示全部帖子
啊哈,墨西哥......勇氣可嘉!
1人点评 收起
发表于 2018-3-13 10:44 显示全部帖子
daimondchanwai 发表于 2018-3-12 11:49
啊哈,墨西哥......勇氣可嘉!

謝謝支持噢……
发表于 2018-3-13 10:46 显示全部帖子
Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

8/30 Bahia San Luis Gonzaga--Coco ‘s corner 40公里

請注意,這篇文章沒有人云亦云的馬屁,只有實話。

可憐的墨西哥政府,一條大約60公里的道路,因為經費短缺,斷斷續續的蓋了超過5年,只完成約20公里。現在還被叫去蓋牆,用樹枝蓋牆可以嗎?

從Bahia San Luis Gonzaga直到道路接回主要公路1號(highway 1)的60公里,道路改善與柏油工程正在進行,或是說應該正在進行,因為在非假日我沒看到的半個工作人員。工程內容不只是把道路鋪上柏油,原有道路的陡彎急路段,都列為改善計畫中,也就是雖然沒有雪隧要挖,但是有許多山丘要炸。砂石路是這條路幾乎沒有長途貨車的主要原因。

出發20公里後,我來到柏油路的盡頭。從海岸到中央沙漠區,海拔上升僅約700公尺,但是日間溫度上升許多,海拔約400公尺的Coco’s corner的溫度計顯示超過40度的氣溫,從12點到下午快4點。而沒有舖面的砂石路是行前就有的心理準備,想避開公路1號的車潮,就得走爛路。

Coco開的飲料店是這段路程唯一的補給,他可能也是唯一居民,現齡80,雙腳因糖尿病截肢,這些都是網路可以找到的資料。他也會邀單車騎士在廢棄的露營車過夜。我事前只把這間飲料店當作可能的補給站,但是路上遇到一對賞我水喝旅遊的年輕情侶確定Coco的飲料店有營業,這樣的話,我今天騎15公里爛路,明天20公里,下午在飲料店躲高溫,聽起來十分完美。

我的確被他邀請過夜,但是沒有閒話家常(他會說英語)。他的脾氣讓人無法苟同,我很樂意幫他忙,但是只要稍不按照心意,他就大聲疾喊,然後再用西班牙語侮辱人,我聽不懂他輕蔑的話語,可是看得懂動作。沒錯,他知道我聽不懂,所以比手畫腳的一定要我懂,這樣才叫侮辱人,對吧。至於他邀單車騎士過夜的主因,我不作評論。

讓我訝異不是這個另我焦躁不安的下午,而是在網路上只有一片叫好的讚美言辭,我一開始覺得仙人藏在山上,一定要好好敬仰一番,沒有仙人,只有很多內褲。我不打算討論掛在天花板的女性內褲,相片也不可能有。

翌日4點起床,收拾好了等待天亮,我已經很久沒有那麼期待熱死人不嘗命的太陽。頭也不回,不可以說再見的Coco’s corner。

8/29 Bahia San Luis Gonzaga--Coco ‘s corner(a drink store) 40km

Please note, there is no flattering but the truth. You might find a saint named Coco on the website but not here.

Poor Mexico government, 60 km road construction from Bahia San Luis Gonzaga to highway 1 was suspended several times due to lack of funds. After more than 5 years, only about 20 km of this section was completed. But they are about to be asked to build the wall. Is a wall built with branches ok?

The construction should be ongoing, but I didn't see any crew or running equipment on the working day. The construction is not only about to pave the road, but also improve the quality, less steeper, fewer blind curves, which indicated that many hills should be blasted or removed. But the awful quality of the old road is the reason that I could barely find a overland truth here, a reason I chose this route.

After 20 km from. Bahia San Luis Gonzaga, I arrived the temporary end of the paved road. From here to the highway 1(the major highway through Baja) junction, 700 meters higher and also hotter in the daytime. Coco’s corner, about 400 meters above sea level, temp over 40 Celsius lasted from 12pm to almost 4 pm. But I have to stand the test of high temp and dirt road to avoid the enormous heavy traffic on part of highway 1.

Coco’s corner is the only supply on the section. From website, he's 80 and has amputation below both knees due to diabetes. I didn't count on it but a young couple who kindly stopped and gave me water confirmed that Coco’s corner was open. I knew that many cyclists were invited to overnight in his old campo. So I rode 15 dirt road on that day, overnight at Coco’s corner, finish the rest 20 km dirt road on the second morning. Which also guaranteed that I didn't need to cycle on the dirt road on the heating afternoon. Sounds perfect.

I indeed was invited to overnight at Coco’s corner. But I didn't have a nice talking(He can speak English). He has a bad temper. I was pleased to assist him but he simply yelled whenever a something went against him and whenever I can't figure out what he meant. More than that, he insulted me , by Spanish and action. Yes, to make sure that I (don't understand his bad words)understood he was INSULTING ME, he acted wrenched to me. If someone is not aware he is insulted, then he is not insulted, right? I don't comment the reason he invited me and other cyclists to overnight there. And I don't have any pics of women’s underwear on the ceiling of Coco’s corner.

I wakes up early at 4am on the next day, strangely felt the deadly sunshine and heat is forwarded. I left on the twilight, without saying goodbye, and I should not say goodbye.
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Puerteticos的機場跑道,供救難運送物資與私人降落
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供旅客過夜的舊露營車內部,有空調,但是無瓦斯煤氣
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路景
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因為經費短缺,興建斷斷續續的新路(未完工,無法使用)與舊路

发表于 2018-3-14 12:00 显示全部帖子
8/31 Coco的店--Coco姊妹的店(Melany餐廳,Puerteticos鎮) 約85公里
9/1 Puerteticos--Jesus Maria 84公里

承上篇,雖然Coco的脾氣不佳,但是可能看在我拼命搖尾巴而且搖對方向的份上。他告訴我他有個姊妹在翌日的路程上有間店,我可以在那邊露營。

陰魂不散嗎?但是這段路程沒有其他住宿選項,除非跨過路旁的鐵絲網以天為幕,以仙人掌為帳。Puerteticos這個小鎮應該人們互相認識,可是我的破西語還是讓我和雜貨店店員雞同鴨講的說了半小時才得知他姐妹的蹤跡(沒向Coco問是因為我想盡量避免和他說話)。他的姐妹有著慈悲為懷的心,也喜歡看『土耳其』連續劇(為什麼這裡收看的到土耳其的節目啊!)她一看到我和單車,馬上指了旁邊的涼亭讓我免費露營。當然我在他的餐廳用餐以作回報。

美中不足的是這間餐廳24小時營業,半夜休息的貨車不但發出巨大噪音,也不熄火。而晚間我才知道她正在旁邊興建旅館,有兩間房已可納客,只是已經在傍晚時分客滿,千金難買早知道。而他姐妹不懂英語,我無法和她談天說地。

這途中,貨架『垮下來』讓我看傻了眼,但是在攔不到車的狀況下,我仔細研究災情,發現僅是螺絲可能因為爛路震動而鬆脫,並不嚴重。但是有個螺絲失了蹤,我最後發現可以用水壺架的螺絲替代,真是好險。

翌日的路程逐漸向較涼濕的西海岸靠近,且罕見的多雲無陽光。到了目的地,我才驚覺颱風即將來襲!而周遭唯一的『防洪措施』只是把道路架高,沒有任何的排水設施。這不禁另我擔心,該不會一覺醒來沙漠變成水鄉澤國。

8/31 Coco’s corner--Coco sister’s corner(Melany restaurant, Puerteticos ) about 85 km
9/1 Puerteticos--Jesus Maria 84 km

Continue with the last post. Although had a quick temper, Coco told me that his sister runs a restaurant in Puerteticos, where camping is possible. I simply didn't want to talk to him much so I didn't ask for more information.

There was nothing for accommodation unless to risk to camp on the other side of the wire fence. So I decided to give his family another try. With poor Spanish, I spent about half hour to know which restaurant is owned by Coco’s sister, Melany restaurant. His sister can't speak English, bus very welcoming and allowed me to camp at the shelter next to the restaurant for free. Of course I ate in her restaurant to express my gratitude.

Something most interesting there is she and other servants watched the Turkish drama in the evening. How could THEY HAVE TURKISH CHANNEL IN the tv? But there was cons to camp next to the restaurant open 24 hours a day. The truckers tended to idle and made huge noises. And I found at night they are building a new hotel, the construction was not completed but two rooms are open to customers. But it was too late to realize that, the two rooms are occupied before the evening. And I can't chat with the sister.

The skews of the bicycle racket was loose on my way to Puerteticos because of the riding on the dirt road. I didn't notice it until the racket “collapsed”. It looked like terrible but I soon realized that all I needed to do is to tighten the skews after several failures of hitchhiking. But I can't find one of the skews!

Well, it suddenly occurred to me that there are “emergency skews” on the bicycle, the bottle cage! I can hit the road again!

The second day to Valle de Jesus Maria was featured by the bizzare cloudy sky. I realized a hurricane was coming when in the village. The only “drain system” is to elevate the highway, nothing more. I was really worried about flooding after the heavy rainfall.
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架高但是沒有水溝的道路
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路景,農牧谷地
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貼文提到的餐廳,露營地點在旁邊的涼亭— 在
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文章提到的拿水壺架螺絲鎖貨架

发表于 2018-3-15 09:52 显示全部帖子
Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

9/2 颱風假
9/3 Valle de Jesus Maria--Grerrero negro 36公里
9/4 Grerrero negro--Viznacio 72公里

颱風Lidia在半島南部造成不小災情,但是到了這裡,已減弱成輕度颱風下限且未登陸,而小鎮的地質屬於沙質土壤(沙漠嗎…),因此並未積水嚴重,雖然公路上仍有幾處我需要繞路的深積水。

我躲颱風的旅館只有三間房間,老闆自己住一間,剩下兩間租客。這是名副其實的『環保旅館』,房間內沒有毛巾、衛生紙與盥洗用具,我個人支持這項做法,雖然沒有這些一次性用品的原因並不是環保心態,但是缺乏競爭的結果讓這間旅館價格高於平均,一晚600peso,約美金37元。颱風來襲當日,老闆非常緊張的不斷跑到屋頂掃水,積水會把水泥平房壓垮嗎?

這個小插曲可以明顯發現這裡完全沒有防災能力,幸好颱風侵襲並不多見。而這幾天的高潮是『第二位墨西哥朋友。』我在Coco姐妹的餐廳遇到Rolando,他主動邀我到位於名字很饒舌的小鎮Grerrero negro的住處用餐。我抵達小鎮安頓好後隨即向他聯絡。

當餐桌送上象拔貝時(包含一盤佐以洋蔥切片和一籃混合黃瓜與洋蔥碎塊的涼拌),我有點不知所措,這不便宜吧。但是後來我知道他是漁民,有不少機會捕獲高經濟價值的漁獲。另外,讓這個小鎮著名的冬季賞鯨他也有參與。他們搭配平淡無味的玉米餅吃,玉米餅上塗抹厚厚的美乃茲。他其中一個兒子還是拳擊國手。翌日早餐他夫人準備了『menudo』,就是豬肚湯。我們溝通的管道包含一位說破西語,一位說破英文,還有不太可靠的網路翻譯。感謝他的慷慨。

從這個靠海小鎮,主要道路再次橫越半島到氣溫較高的東岸,海拔翻閱已不再像半島北部高聳,而交通流量也稀少許多。

9/2 Hurricane vacation
9/3 Valle de Jesus Maria--Grerrero negro 36 km
9/4 Grerrero negro--Viznacio 72 km

Hurricane Lidia brought damages to the southernmost part of Baja peninsula, but didn't bring something serious to the nearby area where I stay for the bad weather because it didn't land and had weakened to tropical storm. And the small town, Valle de Jesus Maria, is located on the sand soil, so the instant heavy rainfall didn't accumulate to become a flood. But there was still some puddles on the highway and I had to detour.

I stayed in a mini hotel only has 3 rooms, and one of the room was the owner’s home! The hotel was an eco hotel although I don't think that the owner has an eco thought. No towels, no papers, nothing disposables in the room. I support to reduce the use of disposables but the hotel was simply overpriced due to lack of competitions, 600 pesos, about 37 USD per night. The owner hotch on the hurricane day and went to remove the waters on the roof of the single-story house. I wonder if the ceiling might collapse due to heavy water accommodation.

I realized that the infrastructure here is not able to prevent the village slammed by super Hurricane on the day. But the climax was a dinner invited by Rolando, a friend I met in Melany restaurant, Coco’s sister’s restaurant. He lives in Grerrero Negro and told me to connect him when I arrived. I did it.

I was stunned when seeing two geoduck clam dishes was served. One is sliced with onion slices and the other is chopped with cucumber and also onion. I don't think geoduck clam is cheap. But I soon realized that Mr. Rolando is a fisherman and also an assistant of whale watching travel, an attraction of Grerrero Negroponte in winter. They ate with plain corner biscuits spread out with mayonnaise. And he has a son of a famous boxer. His wife prepared”menudo” (pork tripe soup)on the second morning. I communicated with poor Spanish, and he used limited English vocabulary, plus the unreliable online translation, we could understand each other in most cases. Thanks for his generosity.

From Grerrero negro, a small town on the west of Peninsula by Pacific ocean, the highway goes over to inland and heads to East coast. But there is no more high mountains and the traffic is far less than the north part.
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積水深時,該低窪處可能很難通過
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路景
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晚餐,象拔貝和常見的酪梨
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需要繞路的道路積水
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早餐 menudo,豬肚湯

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