| 本帖最后由 OnClimbing 于 2017-9-19 09:19 编辑 各个国家的攀石比赛线路都有自己的风格。 日本攀石比赛线路一般灵动、轻巧。  ↑BoulderJapan Cup 2017 ↑BoulderJapan Cup 2016 美国攀石比赛线路力量感十足。 ↑美国攀石公开赛2017 美国攀石公开赛2017 而欧洲攀石比赛线路里总有几条 Slab 斜面线，想踩踩不住，想抓抓不稳，有力使不上，爬了半天，可能汗都没出。不知道各位有没有爬过这样的线，对定线员是不是恨得牙痒痒。 ↑英国攀石锦标赛2017 ↑法国攀石锦标赛2017 这2年 IFSC 攀石比赛里也经常出现这种 Slab 线路，有些力量好但脚法差的选手，比如 Jan Hojer 就很不适应这种线路。今年 IFSC 攀石最后一站Munich，女子3号线路，所有人都只在起步点摸了几次时间就到了，只有 Stasa Gejo完成线路。 直到时间结束，基本都没抓稳除起步点之外的点，观众一定不是来看这样的攀石比赛的。 奥地利名将 Jakob Schuber 在今年6月IFSC Vail 站止步预赛后，就发长文吐槽过 slab 线。 ↑图片来自Jakob Schubert Instagram Jakob Schuber 是一位Lead 难度赛和 Bouldering 攀石赛都很强的老将，2011、2014年度 Lead 难度赛总冠军，2013年度 Bouldering 攀石赛亚军。相信他对攀岩有比较深的领悟。 ↑图片来自Jakob Schubert Instagram Jakob 吐槽大意：“我得说，在我看来，我们组的预赛线路不够多样化。5条里有3条是 Slab 斜面线，有些人也许会说 Slab 线路是新风格，但是在我看来这是一次失败的定线，攀石不仅仅是考验如何站在岩点上。当你爬完预赛，却感觉今天好像根本没动一样，因为根本没有力量消耗，我觉得这是错的。我喜欢和攀石线路搏斗，感受身体的劳累。Slab 线路是比赛的一部分，但我不认为它是攀石里最重要的部分。 Crimps、slopers、pinches、big moves、campusing、跳、协调、脚趾勾点、脚跟挂点、力量耐力......攀石有太多有趣的动作，这是我爱这项运动的原因！ blablabla...... 我想我们不该忘记这项运动是如何起源的。” 不能同意更多，就是喜欢攀石完第二天全身酸痛的感觉，这种酸痛让人觉得很真切的活着。 下面是原文，第一次看到攀岩运动员发这么长的文，看来 Jakob 感触良多。 “The Worldcup in Vail went very badly for me this year😬 after a 5th place in Japan I had high expectations and felt verystrong. But unfortunately the comp was already over after Qualifiers 🤦🏻♂️ I'm always trying to analyze my mistakes and unsurprisingly it were the slabbytechnical boulders again that were the problem. ——Jakob Schubert 然后其他攀岩运动员纷纷表示赞同。 V16哥 Daniel Woods 感觉找到了知音：“well said man! Def agree with you... a comp should show whichclimber is the best at all angles and styles of climbing. In order to do thiswalls should showcase not just technical/slab terrain but all terrain. Don'tknow why the US is trying to set all technical anyway. We always have beenknown for setting powerful comps... why change US??? I mean comps started outwith a pure climbing style and for some reason it faded out. Not sure why. Thegoal is to showcase finger strength, body tension, and flexibility not who isthe best at stupid human tricks.. American ninja warrior already does that...keep comp climbing core respect” 法国名将 V16哥 Guillaume MONDET：“totally agreewith you dude!!” 以色列 Alex Khazanov：“ Absolutely!” kleineschaufel：“You are right Jakob. Ieven fellt at sleep during Qualis. Hope for München.” Jakob.schubert的补充：“ Like I said slabs are and should always be partof the game. I'm not sure if you watch worldcups, there are many bouldersnowadays that have a special style. It's mostly because routesetters use almostexclusively volumes and not a lot of holds, consequently a lot of boulders aremore about finding the beta than actual power. Again I think that should be apart of it, but not everything. If you are saying in the past it was only poweryou are wrong, slabs have been a part of bouldering comps since theirinvention.” _jesswalker_:"Fair statement. The "humantricks" and parkour style climbing definitely shouldn't become all compclimbing has to offer. However, I do think it is important to realize that compclimbing isn't rock climbing, they're completely different sets of skills andsetters shouldn't take shit for pushing comp climbing in a unique direction.” 2017 IFSC Vail 攀石预赛里线路还是比较有意思的，只是Slab点多了些。 线路1，Dyno、反撑、平衡。 A组线路2 ，难点在 Dyno 一个 Pinch片点，脚点是 Slab点。 B组线路3 ，Dyno + 反撑。 A组线路4，Slab 手点和脚点。 A组线路5，Slab 平衡线。 刚结束的摇滚攀石盛典 Adidas Rockstars，从现场火爆的气氛可以看出，这是观众最想看的比赛线路类型——旋转、跳跃、不停歇。。。 Adidas Rockstars 2017 决赛视频点击下面链接： 精彩赛事 | Adidas Rockstars 2017 日本 VS 全世界 https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s?__biz=MzU2MzIzMTg4NA==&mid=2247483859&idx=1&sn=e216e94f9e4856253a8014f6dd53ee07&chksm=fc5c2c30cb2ba526d611ae1eb52558823984a9221291aed6412ae306e08c4fee7d7751e733fb#rd 扫码关注微信公众号：Onclimbing，看更多精彩视频。 |
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