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独穿扎尕那

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本帖最后由 夏嘉莫察瓦绒 于 2018-8-11 08:51 编辑

2018.6.27到2018.6.30号,我重装徒步了迭部扎尕那一线天到卓尼三角石的路线。大雾大雨大晴天,孤独,犹豫,恐慌,坚持。现在回想,这种体验真的很美好。
In 2018.06.27 ~ 2018.06.30, i have hiked from ZhaGaNa Scenic spot (DieBu country seat) to Triangular stone (Zhuoni country seat). have experienced rainy day, sunny day, foggy day, and also loneliness, hesitation, panic, persistence. now think it back, it was really a beautiful thing.

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甘南迭部县扎尕那的迭部山是中国十大非著名山峰之一,其主峰扎伊拉克尕海拔4920米。常规路线是从扎尕那村的一线天开始,经卡拉克垭口,到卓尼县的三角石。全程四千米的垭口五个,三千五百米以上的垭口二十一个。全程大概61公里,大概用时4天。
Die mountain loCATed in ZhaGaNa, DieBu country seat, Gannan Tibetan AUTOnomous Prefecture
,the main peak ZhaYiLaKe is 4920 meters high, it belongs the top not so famous mountains in China. traditional route starts from Scenic Spot at DieBu country seat, after KaLaKe pass, ends at Triangular stone at Zhuoni country seat. there will be 5 passes above 4000 meters, 21 passes above 3500 meters. the route is 61 km long, and will take four days to accomplish.

直奔主题,下午4点多到了扎尕那村,直接和同行的驴友一起入住民宿。放下行李后,就带上小包一起出去到对面的还未开发好的景区散步。甘南多雨,在小雨中走到了仙女湖。这里地势比较高点儿,比较开阔,所以是俯瞰扎尕那的绝佳位置。


let's get started directly, at probably 16:00 6.24, i arrived the ZhaGaNa Scenic Spot along with other two hikers, and checked the booked hotel directly. after dropdown the package, we went out to the Scenic Spot(not fully developed) and have a walk. this place is rainy, we walked until the Fairy Lake even though there were still raining. here is a little higher than the hole village and is flat, so it is a good place to view the ZhaGaNa.



这里让我介绍下认识的驴友。信马由缰的风,男,东北大庆人,爽快,人有趣,去过很多地方。在散步的过程中,他告诉我自己刚做完肿瘤手术。机缘巧合中,检查出得了肿瘤,当时他五雷轰顶,觉得自己生活方式很健康,再怎么着的也不会轮到自己。他觉得一个人健康最重要,工作和生活要平衡,要有精力去做自己喜欢的事情,这样才不会在将死之时感觉到悔恨。我很尊敬佩服他。

Here let me introduce the hiker i met. 信马由缰的风, male, from DaQiang North East China. very handsome,  fankly, and humour, been to lots of places.  He told me that he just have an tumor surgery, he accidentally diagnosed that he got tumor, and that time when he heard the news, he felt that the sky is falling on him. because he live a healthy life, always hiking, travelling and exercising, there is no way he could get the tumor. after that, he thinks that a health body is the most important thing to a man, and then is the work and life, if you got the time to do what you like, that will be awesome, because u will not regret your youth time when u r dying. for this, i respect him.

![photo of the hiker i met]()


散步回来后,我们去藏民家里搭伙吃饭。主人很热情,我们喝了自酿的青稞酒。这里认识了骑摩托车旅行广东清远大哥。

After walk, we head to a local Tibetan people's home to have dinner. the owner is very happy, and let us drink the barley wine he made. and here we met a man who travel with his motor cycle, he started from his hometown QiangYuan GuangDong.

![photo of the tibetian home]() ![photo of the tibetian dinner]()
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6月25日,早上仍然是中雨。信马由缰的风因为时间限制,决定进山。我陪同他走到山口,就回去了。在这种地方,最怕的是山洪,泥石流。再加上时不时的渡河,危险就很大了。后来从朋友圈看到他渡河的情景,感觉很吓人。我不会游泳,所以只要这种情况,我都是打退堂鼓的。
At 25th June, it is still raining in the morning. because of the time limit, 信马由缰的风 decided to entering the mountain with or without raining. I walked with him until the entrance of the route, and stoped. In these big mountains, flood, Debris flow are scary. plus constantly crossing the river, it will be very dangerous. the folloWING pic is the first river he need to cross at that time, i got it from his moments. because i can't swim, so every time met this kind of situation, i will go home.


![the hiker crossing the river]() the_hiker_crossing_river.jpeg

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今天是好无聊的一天,我就到处转转,看看花,逛逛寺庙,适应适应体能。
what a boring day, i just walk around the village, get myself suitable for the high lands.

![the temple]()  ![the village]()
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6月26日,早上是阴天。多么兴奋的一天啊,八点起床收拾行李就进山了。进山口,藏民看我背这么大的包,问我要不要马。我说我很穷,只能自己背。其实,要是不自己负重,那我也就没必要来了。在拒绝以后,他们说:小伙子加油,决心大的很。
对,决心真的很重要,如果觉得做什么都好难,只能说平凡的日子把你的决心磨没了。况且年盛的时候尚且不能决心磨练自己,难道要等老了给自己磨难吗?

At 26th June, a cloudy day. also an excited day, i packed up at 8:00 and enter the route entrance. at the entrance, local tibetan people saw me with a big back pack, they suggest me hire a hourse. i replied that i am a hiker, and all the the thing should be carried by myself. if i don't do this, i won't come here for a hike. they said: then cheer up, you have a great determination!

Yeah, determination is very important if you want to do something. if you feel difficult to do everything, then it shows that you have lost your courage to do anything. plus, if you can't do it right now, how can u do it when u r old?

第一个目标是到一线天,这一段路好走。由于背了水袋水壶,所以背包很重,走了半小时就感觉压力好大。最后决定把水袋的水倒掉。如果没有水了,就喝河水。路上也没有什么人,只有两旁高耸的山峦,山谷中潮湿的空气,震耳欲聋的水流声音。The first goal is the entrance of the hiking route,the road is very good to walk on as far. with the water bag and cup, my bag is very heavy as i walk, and i feel so pressure on my shoulders. after hesitation, i decided to drop the water in water bag, if there is no water in front way, i will drink water from rivers. there is only me on the road, with the very high mountains along side, the mist in the valley, and the loud sound of the river.

![entrance of the route]()  ![sky of the valley]()
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过了一线天,就是真正的野路了。从脚下的碎尸路可以明显看出昨天的山洪很猛烈。这里是刚开始,所以好多地方都会有独木桥,走起来很是享受。再往前会有一大片平地,中间一个巨石,周围悬挂着五彩的经幡。一路爬升,我就在这里休息欣赏一下山间美景。

After the entrance, will be the real hiking route. as you can see from the rocky road, yesterday's flood is really scary. there will be lots of wooden bridge crossing the river, as this is the start, local people always come here. and with this kind of view, it is happy to walk here. keep working will arrive an flat place between mountains, there is a very big rock stand here, with the local budda flags on it. until now, i am keep climbing, so tiered, so decided to rest here and take some pictures.

![wooden bridge]()  ![budda flags]()   ![valley]()
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一切看起来很美妙,直到遇到第一个需要徒手过河的地方。水流湍急,水质浑浊,以前的桥早已经背洪水冲垮了。上下几百米搜索,没有找到比较缓和的过河点。犹豫了好久,只能脱掉鞋子,挽起裤腿,小心翼翼的趟过去。高原的河水冰冷刺骨,如果在这里失足被冲走,我就很可能挂了。过河后赶紧擦干脚,换鞋,此时人已经哆嗦了。

Every thing is good until arrived the first place that need to cross the river without wooden bridge. rapid flow of water, and not clear, the old wooden bridge already flushed away by floods. i searched along side the river for couple of hundred meters, didn't find a spot that is safe to cross the river. Hesitated for a long time, decided to cross it with my bare feet, i take off my shoes and pants, slowly walked into the icy water. The river in high lands are very cold, u can't sustain one minutes in it before you fade out, if you are floated in the icy river, you will be floated away, and that is very dangerous, cuz u will be killed by the icy water. after crossing the river, i dry my feed and leg immediately and wear my shoes and pant. i am trembling right now.

![icy river that need to cross by feet]()
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过河后山势就平缓了一些,这里开始有了草原,到处都是沼泽地。一会儿飘来一团云,就是一阵雨。草坡上的花格外鲜艳。海拔越高,风越大,停下休息的时候,就会感觉冷,我就躲在背包后面,草草吃块囊,喝点水。已经不知道过了几个垭口,反正前面有一个很变态的垭口需要翻过去。扛起背包,慢慢前行,这地方根本跑步起来,走几分钟就休息一下。

After crossing the river,  there will be grass lands, and the valley are a little flatter than before, but the swamps are everywhere. if u see a cloud approaching, there will be a rain immediately. the flowers on the slope are very beautiful, makes me feel not so lonely. with the increASIng altitude, the winds are increasing too, here feel cold. thus i hide behind my back bag, eat some food, drink some water. I have forgotten how many passes above 3500 meters i have passed, but the one in front of me looks scary. I can't run in this place, only slowly work, and rest every couple of minutes.

![the scary passes before the farm]() ![the flowers in the slope]()
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终于爬上了垭口。上面是一大片高山牧场,牦牛在远处沉思,看着来来往往的白云。牧场周围山势挺拔,俊俏,甚是好看。心情一下子愉悦放松了。这么美的牧场,我决定在这里露营了。
这里碰到了回程的向导,他说信马由缰的风腿疼,从另一边下撤了。听到后,感觉很遗憾,他还是会在重新走一遍的我感觉。
四千米的海拔,傍晚格外冷,牧民邀请我在他家烤火。他儿子在西安上学,暑假马上回来。炉火应在他的脸上,感觉大叔很幸福。简单的毡房,简单的地铺,简单的生活,拥有两百多头牦牛,五十多匹马,牧民的日子真的比我们现代化的汉民幸福啊。但是给父母讲,他们是不懂的。

野生岩羊,新鲜的空前,大片的草场,人与动物,大自然和谐相处。

Finally, I arrived the pass. it is a mountain grass land, cowes are thinking on the slope, looking the clouds arriving and passing. the mountains around the grass land are very steep, and very good looking. I feel better now, and decided to sleep here tonight.

Here i met the guide who serve 信马由缰的风, he said 信马由缰的风 feel pain on his legs, so down to the hill and returned to ZhaGaNa. I feel sorry for him, but also feel that he will come back here to finish the route in the future.

Above 4000 meters, it is very cold at afternoon, so the sheep farmer invite me to his tent for warm around the fire. his son is in university in Xi'An, and will get back home soon. the light of the fire shining on our face, the farmer looks happy. Simple tent, simple bed, simple life, he owns about 200 cowes, 50 hourses, sheep farmers are happier than my parents. but my parents don't understand it.

Wild mountain goat, fresh air, great grass lands, human and animal, and nature, they fit together.

![great grass land]()  ![cow thinking]() ![my tent]() ![mountains around it]()
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6月27日,今天整体劳累,但是风景很美。早上拔营,不到一公里就是一个更高的垭口,泥泞的草地。终于从耸峙的山峰下爬上了垭口。一边是草原,另一边是一条线形的山脉。没有人照相,我就相机自拍。

At 27th June, today is very tired, but the landscape is astonishing. Start walk at morning, without 1 km, there will be another much higher pass, dirty grass land. after hours walk under the mountains foot, i climbed the pass. behind me is the grass land, before me is a seriase of mountains in a line. nobody could take photo here for me, so i did it myself.

![pass after]() ![pass before]() ![me]()
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山峰连着山峰,垭口接着垭口,今天就是不停的爬高,下降。但是最困难的在于河谷地带。这里没有明显的路,我找了半天都没有,最终只能从乱石坡上滑下去,直接下到谷底。河谷是一条河流,加上下雨,我走的心惊胆战,怕山上汇聚的雨水下来变成洪水。所以都是半跑着往前走。河谷的另一边是另一个垭口。
Mountain after mountain, pass after pass, constantly climbing and downhill. but the most difficult one is the route in the river valley. due to the rain and the river, i am worried that there will be a flood appearing in the valley. to pass it quickly, i almost running until the next pass.

![river valley]() ![pass1 at river valley]() ![pass2 at river valley]()
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傍晚了,一直考虑在找一个有水,有平整草地的地方扎营,可是总找不到满足两个条件的地方。几近奔溃的时候,突然看到下面山谷的一个山头上一片花花绿绿的帐篷。天啊,我好高兴,终于碰到人了。晚上和他们一起扎营。
The sky gets dark, i am considering a place which have water and flat grass land, that will be my place to sleep, with this in mind, i climbed another couple of mountains and passes, finally, saw a group of people cooking in a mountain hill. OMG, i am so happy, finally met someone. i slept with them on the mountain hill that night.

![comercial group]() ![me cooking]() ![the view]()

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6月28号,今天据说是风光最美的一段了。早餐后,我就出发了。出门就是一个垭口,不过这个垭口过后的景色真的美。在垭口上拍了一会儿照,就奔向全程最高的垭口。路途中隐约看到前面垭口下面有几个人正在拔营。右手边的迭山,气势宏伟。山上的雪还未融化完。

中间路段有一个断崖,下去比较难。因为下雨的缘故,山上的积水全部注入到砂石里面,特别松软。下去的时候,陷入到里面,半条腿都是泥腿子了。

At 28th June, it is said that today we will see the most beautiful landscape. after breakfast, i start walking. and soon it is a pass on the mountain need to climb, after this pass, the view is astonishing. i rest on the pass and took some photos. and then go to the next, the most difficult pass on this route, the Kalaka pass, which is 4200 meters high.  in the way, i saw another group of people under the KalaKa pass, they are starting climbing it. the mountain in my right hand is very tall, and the snow on it is still exist.

in the middle of the route to Kalaka pass, there is a cliff, which is difficult. the sand is very soft due to the rain. your leg can easily fall into it, thus my pant are very dirt after that.

![mountain at right hand]() ![the route which is cliff]()  ![at bottom of the Kalaka pass]()
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在垭口上追上了前面的人,一路聊天就爬上去了。卡拉克,真的壮观。

I overtake the people i saw in the previous pass, and we talked each other while climbing the Kalaka pass. Kalaka, really astonashing!!!

![kalaka 1]()  ![kalaka 2]() ![kalaka 3]()
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卡拉克过后,就是在大山上的横切路,特别危险。脚下是悬崖,头上是乱石。但是那种荒芜的地貌,让人觉得自己很渺小。中间遇到了商业队的老乡,她也难受,但是还是在坚持。After Kalaka, there are cross-cut road in the mountain, beneath your feet is the valley, above your head is the rocks, this kind of landscape makes you feel small. i met a woman who comes from my hometown, we take pictures for each other. she feel hurts on this kind of road, but still persisting.

![cross cut road]() ![cross cut road 2]()  ![me at cross cut road]()
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经过横切路后,就到了丹霞地貌区了。天空下起了雨,但是没有合适的扎营点,天色尚早,只能冒雨前进。翻过垭口,到了一个山谷,雨特别大,只能趴在岩石下面躲雨。这条山谷没有人,所以野生动物横行。地上的牛是被狼吃了一半。

After cross cut road, i am reaching Danxia landform。it starts to rain, due to there is no suitable place for sleep, and still early, i decided to carry on. after climbing a pass, reached a valley, and the rain became a heavy rain, i hide under the rocks to wait rain become a little smaller. in this valley, there is no people, thus a lot of wild animals. the dead cow on the ground is eaten by wolves.

![danxia landform]() ![eaten by wolves]()
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因为下雨,原本的山路都变成了小溪,河流暴涨。以前冷猫洗黄瓜的地方都被水淹了。直到大便石,两次渡河比较危险。

Due to the heavy rain, the road becoming a creek, rivers are roaring. the team leader 冷猫,he guide two people hiking on this route, point the spot and said, the places he used to wash fruites are now under water. until the Shit-Stone, there will be two crossing river which is dangerous.

![road turn into creek]() ![first river]() ![second river]() ![river roaring]()

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因为走的快,和冷猫及他的队伍朝着观音石垭口行走。观音石垭口下方的牧场像世外桃源。但是由于他们随行的马走了另一个方向,我们在这里休整后又朝着另一个方向走了。目标是明天从老虎嘴那里翻过垭口,出山。据说下雨后观音石的路特别不好走,河水暴涨,比较危险。

Cuz we walk faster, we are arriving GuanYinShi pass afternoon. the house under this pass is beautiful, clear rivers, wooden bridge, grass lands, mountains. due to the hourse goes to another direction, we had to catch up them. the goal is to go out though Tiger-Mouse, and climbing a pass, then finish this hiking. it is said after heavy rain, the road after GuanYinShi is very difficult, the river will become floods, very dangerous.

晚上九点多,我们到了集体露营的地方了。终于赶上了他们的马了。因为多走了路,所以特别累,浑身湿透,生了一堆火,吃东西,烤火。At 21:00, we finally catched up the hourse. so tired, and wet all over the body, we light a fire, eat food, and warm ourselves.

![camp]() sun_mountain.jpg

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6月29日,最后一天,可以出山了。好高兴。今天是从老虎嘴涉水出去,爬一个3500米以上的垭口,就可以出山了。出山的路很漫长,但是大家都走到一起了,也就不觉得累了。

At 29th June, the last day, finally can get out of these mountains, so happy. today we walk in the water through Tiger-Mouse, and then climbed a mountain pass, then walk on long distance flat road. with everybody belong your side, didn't feel any tiered.

大部队在这里停止了。
we all ends here.
![end here]()
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  • 夏嘉莫察瓦绒 我有拖延症,不喜欢写作文,但是喜欢做的事情一定会坚持完的,写英文对照,是希望碰到的外国朋友也能有机会去。 6 天前
发表于 6 天前 显示全部帖子
本帖最后由 夏嘉莫察瓦绒 于 2018-8-11 09:06 编辑



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发表于 6 天前 显示全部帖子
甘南迭部县扎尕那的迭部山是中国十大非著名山峰之一,其主峰扎伊拉克尕海拔4920米。常规路线是从扎尕那村的一线天开始,经卡拉克垭口,到卓尼县的三角石。全程四千米的垭口五个,三千五百米以上的垭口二十一个。
发自8264小程序
发表于 6 天前 显示全部帖子
总里程大概61公里,大概四天行程。全程行走平均海拔三千米以上。
发自8264小程序
发表于 5 天前 显示全部帖子
I had tell you that:小程序里只有1楼能发图片。
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发表于 5 天前 显示全部帖子
五仁月饼 发表于 2018-8-10 09:22
I had tell you that:小程序里只有1楼能发图片。

昨晚用小程序半天,发现一点不好用,只能用来浏览。
发表于 4 天前 显示全部帖子
不错!想去武功山徒步,有兴趣吗?

发自8264手机版 m.8264.com
发表于 4 天前 显示全部帖子
对了,我是宦立武朋友。

发自8264手机版 m.8264.com
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发表于 3 天前 显示全部帖子
逍遥焉 发表于 2018-8-11 09:44
对了,我是宦立武朋友。

发自8264手机版 m.8264.com

去,等天气凉点儿就去。
发表于 昨天 15:29 显示全部帖子
好贴!
扎尕那,心向往之!
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