| 本帖最后由 崇幄 于 2018-12-20 22:17 编辑 Tomaz Humar的相关报道罕见于国内媒体，更别说事故分析了，转载请注明出自8264 登山皇帝莱因霍尔德·梅斯纳尔（REInhold Messner）说Tomaz Humar是地球上最伟大的阿式登山家 这么伟大的阿式登山家在蓝塘里壤峰完成了人生的最后之攀后，生命的时针永远地停在了41岁。 某权威媒体这样介绍该事件： On November 9, 2009, Humar, who was on a solo climb via the South Face of Langtang Lirung (last climbed in 1995[9]), had an accident during the Descent.[10] His only contact with the base camp staff via a satellite phone was made on the day of the accident and he appeared to be in critical condition with leg, spine and rib injuries. He was stuck on the mountain at an elevation of approximately 6,300 meters for several days before his body was found on November 14, 2009 at an elevation of 5,600 meters.[11] 中文翻译如下： 2009年11月9日，Humar在solo蓝塘里壤峰南壁的下降阶段发生了事故。他唯一一次通过卫星电话与大本营职员联系是发生在事故当天。他的腿、脊柱、肋骨都伤了，情况危殆。他在海拔大约6,300 米的地方被困了好几天，随后，他的遗体于2009年11月14日在海拔5,600米的地方被发现。 那么这个介绍符合事实吗？不符合，至少以下两点完全不符合 （1）Humar没有在海拔大约6,300 米的地方被困好几天，他被困的地方的海拔是5,600 米 （2）Humar没有在在下降阶段发生事故，他是在攀登的上升阶段中的某个时间点发生的事故 这个帖子就是要证明这两点，并顺便说说： （1）Humar怎么发生的事故？ （2）Humar坠落了多少米？ （3）Humar为什么会发生事故？ （4）Humar事前怎么做，才能在即使发生了这样的事故后，还能全身而退？ （5）从这次事故我们能得到哪些启示? 以下先用两张图介绍蓝塘里壤峰  |
| 本帖最后由 崇幄 于 2018-12-20 21:35 编辑 被困6,300米好几天这个说法究竟是怎么来的？真实情况其实这样的：According to Jagat, Humar had called him a week before, on November 8, from 6,300 meters on the mountain’s south ridge. This is where the Sherpa team had gone to look for him. But Humar was found much lower, at 5,500 meters, in the middle of the southwest face. In his next calls, after the accident, he didn’t mention this, just that he would be hard to find. 从这段文字我们可以了解到，Humar在事故发生一周前的11月8日从海拔6,300米的南山脊某处给大本营的联络官打过电话。在事故发生后，Humar再给联络官打电话时没有提及海拔，只是说他将很难被找到。这让前去营救他的夏尔巴团队误以为他还在海拔6,300米，这导致第一次搜救没能发现他，最终他的遗体在海拔5,500 米被找到，也就是事故发生后他给大本营打电话的地方，Humar不是要solo南壁吗？那他为什么会出现在海拔6,300米的南山脊呢？从6,300米到5,500米是否就是Humar花去一周时间完成的攀登？那么这段攀登的用意何在呢？ 其实这不是很难破解，看完下面这张示意图，就很容易解决这个问题： 从图中可看出，Humar因为某种考虑没有从南壁底部开始攀登，而是选择先攀上相对容易的南山脊，到达6,300米或其上的某个高点后再向南壁中央路线横切，横切到中央路线海拔5,500米上部的某个点后，或者还向上攀登了一段后，发生了事故，Humar从事故发生点坠落到中央路线的海拔5,500米处 这么一来，某权威媒体的所犯错误的第二点就不难理解了 |
| （1）Humar怎么发生的事故？因为Humar是一个人攀登，事故发生时没有其他目击者，我们只能从事故现场推断事故是如何发生的，在哪发生的。发现Humar遗体的Anthamatten证实，Humar只穿了一件羽绒夹克，但是那就是他所有的装备了，Anthamatten说，“我找不到任何绳子，也找不到他的背包，他也没戴冰爪，没系安全带，什么也没有”。由此可以判断，事故显然不是在正在攀登时发生的，事故只可能是在宿营时发生的，Humar在营地休息的过程中，不知出于什么原因，离开帐篷到外面活动，在事先没设置任何安全措施的情况下滑坠了 Even more confusing was the lack of equipment. Humar was dressed, and wearing a duvet jacket, but that’s about all the gear he had with him. “I couldn’t find any rope,” Anthamatten said. “I couldn’t find his backpack. He had no crampons on. He had no harness on. There was nothing. （2）Humar坠落了多少米？ Anthamatten证实，从遗体的情况看，他不会滑坠超过50米。“在我们自己山上我们遇到过类似的事故，如果某人滑坠300米，那么他会失去靴子，所有的东西都会撕掉。Humar看上去根本不是这样” “The way the body looked, he couldn’t have fallen more than 50 meters. We have experience of this in our mountains. Somebody falls 300 meters then they lose boots, everything is ripped off and so on. Tomaz doesn’t look like this.” |
| 本帖最后由 崇幄 于 2018-12-21 12:03 编辑 （3）Humar为什么会发生事故？要搞清楚这个问题，先让我们来回顾一下Humar的攀登经历 13. November 1994: Ganesh V (6770 m), in Ganesh Himal, new variation on SE face, with Stane Belak-Šrauf 6. May 1995: Annapurna (8091 m), N face, French Route, solo climb (the only traditional expedition in which he participated) 4. May 1996: Ama Dablam (6828 m), new route on NW face, with Vanja Furlan 2. November 1996: Bobaye (6808 m), 1st ascent of the summit, NW face, new route "Golden Heart", solo climb 1. October 1997: Lobuche East (6119 m), NE face, new route "Talking About Tsampa", with Janez Jeglič and Carlos Carsolio 9-11. October 1997: Pumori (7165 m), SE face attempt of new route up to 6300 m - then after participation in rescue action at N reached the summit by normal route), with Janez Jeglič, Marjan Kovač 31. October 1997: Nuptse West top (NW, 7742 m), W face, new route, with Janez Jeglič (who died during descent) 26. October 1998: El Capitan (2307 m) (Yosemite), route Reticent Wall A4-A5, 3rd solo climb (1st solo by non-American) 2. November 1999: Dhaulagiri (8167 m), new route on S face (up to 8000 m, without reaching the top), solo climb 26. October 2002: Shisha Pangma, (8046 m), with Maxut Zhumaiev, Denis Urubko, Aleksej Raspopov, Vassiliy Pivtsov June 2003: Nanga Parbat (8125 m), his first attempt to climb Rupal (S) Face, up to ca. 6000 m 22. December 2003: Aconcagua (6960 m), S face, new route with Aleš Koželj October 2004: Jannu (7711 m), E face, attempt solo up to 7000 m 23. April 2005: Cholatse (6440 m), NE face 2nd ascent with new variation, with Aleš Koželj, Janko Oprešnik Aug 2005: Nanga Parbat (8125 m), attempt to solo climb Rupal (S) Face, up to 7000 meters (with famous helicopter rescue action - see main text above) October 2006: Baruntse (7129 m), W face of SE ridge, solo 28. October 2007: Annapurna (8091 m), S face, new route, solo climb (ca.) 8. November 2009: Langtang Lirung (7227 m), S face solo attempt, died during descent 很容易发现，从28. October 2007完成Annapurna (8091 m)南壁新路线的solo后，到发生事故的蓝塘里壤峰攀登之间长达两年的时间里，Humar没有进行过任何攀登，作为梅斯纳尔眼中最伟大的阿式登山家，正当壮年，连续休息两年，这很不寻常。在这两年中究竟发生了什么事，让这位最伟大的阿式登山家停止攀登，这些和事故的发生又有什么样的关联呢？ 接下来，我打算梳理一下这两年里哪些事情会影响humar作为一个顶级阿式登山家的攀登状态： （1）Humar病了，而且是比较严重的病，一直在寻求医生的治疗 Bernadette McDonald是Humar的传记作者，在Humar死前，她在苏格兰的一场电影节最后一次看到Humar."他的情况不好，他患上某种铅中毒病症，正在德国找医生治疗。在公众场合他还是象他通常做的那样打发日子，但私底下他非常担忧"。他糟糕的健康正严重影响他未来的攀登计划。“对我而言，他似乎变成了以前的缩小版”，她补充道 Bernadette McDonald last saw him a year before his death at a film festival in Scotland. “He wasn’t well. He had some kind of lead poisoning and was seeing a doctor in Germany. He was goofing around like he always did in public, but in private he was worried.” McDonald speculates that his years painting as a young man, raising cash for expeditions, may have come back to haunt him. His poor health was undermining future climbing plans. “He seemed to me a smaller version of his former self,” she adds. （2）Humar的家庭关系和个人感情都出了严重的问题 他和妻子已经离婚好几年了，但这两年关系已经糟到妻子不让他见自己的孩子，就算他死后，他前妻也不让孩子去参加他的葬礼。他和斯洛文尼亚记者Maja Ros的长期关系在他攀登南迦巴特峰时开始，但在2008年走到了尽头。梅斯纳尔说Humar已经失去了攀登者最重要的心理平衡。 Separated and then divorced from Sergeja several years before, Humar had fought a long battle to maintain contact with his children. When Humar died, Sergeja didn’t attend the funeral, or allow the children to go, and she declined to comment for this article. A long relationship with Slovenian journalist Maja Ros, begun on Nanga Parbat, broke down in 2008. （3）Humar创办了自己的生意，不能再象以前一样随意攀登了 Humar经营着一家可以从政府获得订单的绳索通路公司。当他去年秋天在加德满都与自己的老朋友，意大利阿式登山家Simone Moro不期而遇并共进晚餐时，他告诉Moro，“阿式登山已经变成了他的爱好，再也不是他的工作和主要活动”，也就是说Humar的攀登状态在这两年里发生了不可逆转的退化 His business, running a rope-access company, allowed him a decent enough living, thanks to a government contract. Last fall, the Italian alpinist Simone Moro found himself unexpectedly in Kathmandu. One morn- ing, Moro ran into an old friend walking down the street—Tomaz Humar. The two had dinner together, and Humar showed Moro an old pho- tocopied image of Langtang Lirung’s south face. “Tomaz said the face had been attempted two or three times before and that everybody failed,” Moro told me. He agreed to give Humar some ice screws, made by their shared sponsor, CAMP. “The line he showed me looked to be the only one possible on that face, with less risk than other lines. But it still looked quite dangerous. Tomaz told me also that alpinism had become for him a hobby and no more his job or main activity. He was different from the other times I met him. He also phoned me while he was going by bus to the last village, where he intended to start trekking.” It was, as it turned out, a final greeting. 我个人认为，这三点已经足够多了，在去蓝塘前，Humar可能觉得自己和以前没什么不同，但就攀登状态而言，他再也不是以前的自己了，这点从他在蓝塘的攀登也可以看出，他没有从南壁的底部起步，是他不愿意还是不能，从后来的情况看，用一周时间横切，攀登效率低下，进展缓慢，最重要的是他的补给还够吗？如果已经消耗光了，别说登顶了，就算全身而退也不行，这些都会让他发愁，他不能再叫救援了，因为上一次的救援已经让他名誉扫地，这些烦恼，都会导致他夜不能寐、心中恍惚、神志不清，这些加在一起构成他在营地发生事故的根本原因 |
| 本帖最后由 崇幄 于 2018-12-21 12:02 编辑 （4）Humar事前怎么做，才能在即使发生了这样的事故后，还能全身而退？ Humar只坠落了50米，虽然腿、脊柱、肋骨都受了伤，但还能打卫星电话，意识清醒，并且在生命终止前还存活了好几天。如果说在事故发生时的第一时间获得救援，Humar可能现在还活着。在这个事故里，压死骆驼的最后一根稻草就是，夏尔巴误会了Humar发生事故后所在海拔高度。而且Humar在进山前没有和大本营的人员沟通他的登山计划。这给救援造成了不必要的麻烦。那么，作为一个专门从事solo的阿式登山家，应该做些什么来避免这样的不幸呢？ i. 进山前与大本营人员详细沟通自己的攀登路线、计划 ii. 携带具有卫星联网功能的GPS，让大本营人员可以持续追踪自己的移动轨迹（含海拔、位置） （5）从这次事故我们能得到哪些启示? 作为一个攀登者，不要在健康状况不良、情绪不佳的情况下进行任何攀登和训练，不要在终止了攀登活动多年后，突然开始自己在巅峰时期所从事的高难度攀登 |
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