| 这里我转载一下他们的侦查报告，不好意思，是英文的 Yulong Xueshan Overview and Snow Lotus Peak, North Ridge China, Yunnan, Hengduan Mountains Author: Yannick Benichou. Climb Year: 2020. Publication Year: 2021. image_8 Snow Lotus from the top camp at 4,900m. The route climbs into the bowl below the face in shadow, then up to the left of the sunlit snow dome to reach the skyline, which is followed back left to the upper north ridge a little short of the summit. Photo by Yannick Benichou The Yulong Xueshan or Jade Dragon Range lies north of Lijiang and is a popular tourist area. The range holds around 18 peaks over 5,000m; some of the mountains are believed to be unclimbed. The highest summit in the range is Shanzidou (5,596m). It was first attempted as early as 1938 by an expedition organized by the Australian Marie Byles. The next attempt was in 1984 by Japanese. In 1985 an American team reached the col at the base of the north ridge, while in 1986 another team, including Eric Perlman, almost climbed the north ridge, stopping 150m below the top. The following year, Perlman returned, and with Phil Peralta-Ramos took a shortcut to the ridge from the east. Climbing avalanche-prone gullies and 5.7 rock in crampons, the pair reached the ridge and continued up the meter-wide crest to the summit (AAJ 1988). Shanzidou has now been off-limits for many years, in respect of local religious beliefs; Chinese authorities deny it has ever been climbed. No other peaks in the area are believed to be forbidden to climbers, and no climbing or trekking permit is required. However, an entrance fee must be paid for the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain Tourist Area. The peaks of the Yulong Xueshan sit on a north-south ridge about 35km long. In the northern part of the range, a secondary ridge leaves the main spine and runs for 3km to 4km, parallel and to the east. It culminates in Snow Lotus Peak (5,321m on the Nakamura sketch maps, taken largely from Chinese cartography and used throughout this report; this mountain is shown as 5,290m on OpenTopoMap and Google Earth). In Chinese, it is known as Xuelian, not to be confused with the well-known 6,627m summit of the same name in the Tien Shan. Snow Lotus is a popular peak among locals, and as of this year was starting to receive commercial expeditions. (AAJ 2012 reports an American attempt.) It gives a commanding view of the range north of Shanzidou. The following report, describing an ascent of the standard route, is included for its informative pictures of Yulong Xueshan peaks, mostly unnamed and likely unexplored. image_6 Looking west from near the summit of Snow Lotus to (A) Peak 5,501 (second highest in the massif), (B) Peak 5,387m, (C) Peak 5,208m, and (D) Peak 5,135m. Photo by Yannick Benichou In late November, Yannick Benichou, Thierry Douet (both from France), and Sissi Xu (China) reached the Yak Meadow Cableway in around 1.5 hours from downtown Lijiang. Late autumn is the best time to climb in this area, thanks to stable, clear weather; winter sees stronger winds and lower temperatures. Early in the morning, it is only possible to ride the lift to the lower station at 3,200m; the upper station is at 3,500m. Well acclimatized and very fit parties can reach the summit from here and descend to the road in a 15-hour trip. However, it is advisable to make a camp next to the wood house built by Koreans at 3,780m (locals refer to this as the Small Mountain Snow House). Reaching here involves pleasant walking through meadows and forest, with magnificent views of Snow Lotus and Shanzidou. The path above the cabin climbs around the north ridge, then parallel to and west of it to 4,800m, and then follows the ridge directly. The French-Chinese team camped at 4,900m, around 200m east of the ridge, as strong winds and low temperatures made it unfavorable to continue the ascent that day. The mountain has two summits of almost equal height (southwest and northeast, with the former at 27°09'02.4"N, 100°11'33.1"E considered the higher). On November 29, the team reached a depression between the two tops and continued for 150m on loose rock up the north ridge of the southwest summit, arriving on top at 8:30 a.m. under perfect weather conditions. Only an ice axes and crampons were needed, and the three regained the cable car station the same day. – Yannick Benichou, France |
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