| 编者按： 前不久翻译的纪录片《Link Sar》，讲述了由Chris Wright、Steve Swenson、Mark Richey和Graham Zimmerman，于2019年8月首攀Link Sar (7041m)，路线取名Southeast Face，获2020年金冰镐奖，难度M6+, WI4, 90°, 2300m)。 Chris Wright是一名登山运动员，也是一名驻俄勒冈州本德 (Bend) 和法国夏蒙尼 (Chamonix) 的IFMGA登山向导。 在一些climbing news网站闲逛时无意瞥见此文。Chris Wright笔书的为攀登Link Sar所做的准备，泛读下来觉得值得细品，特摘出文章主体，翻译分享。  去年夏天，当日落金山染红了喀喇昆仑山脉微凉的八月，我和搭档们相拥一团，庆祝这呼之欲出的喜悦。紧接着我们收紧绳子，其他队员的到达了顶峰。经过为期六天的艰苦攀登以及长达一年的准备，我们四人小队完成了海拔7041米未登峰Link Sar的首登，这是全球最后的未登巨峰之一。从东壁向上攀登2300米后，我可以看到宏伟的喜马拉雅山脉朝四面八方铺展开来。我和三个永生不会忘却的大男人共同经历这值得铭记一生的时刻，这是我人生的高光时刻，是我的一生所求。 As the sun lit the peaks of the Karakoram on fire late one cold August evening last summer, I stepped into my climbing partner’s arms and screamed with joy into the coming night. Soon we pulled the ropes tight and were joined on our snowy crest by the rest of our team. After six hard days of climbing and a years-long roller coaster of effort and emotion, our four-man team had just made the First Ascent of the 7,041-meter-tall Link Sar, one of the world’s last great unclimbed peaks, via its 2,300-meter east face, and from our vantage I could see the vastness of the greater himalaya spread out in all directions. It was a magical moment to share with three men I will love forever, and it will indelibly stand in my memory as a high point in a career spent chASIng such ocCASIOns. 在这个伟大时刻到来前的无数个时刻，我脑海中都会时常浮现出托马斯·爱迪生的这句经典老话：天才是百分之一的灵感，加百分之九十九的汗水。登山当然也是如此，我已经想起上周我大汗淋漓的样子了。感觉在陡峭的雪坡和冰壁上爬了第八百万个绳距后，我不禁庆幸与感激那个在过去一年时间里，在小山上背着装满石头和水的大包进行负重爬坡训练以及在烦人的车库里挥汗如雨的那个我。我确实记得当时的精疲力竭，但同时我也在想：“哈，训练总是效果显著”。 Magical as those moments were, the days, weeks, and years leading up to them bring to mind another cliché, oft attributed to Thomas Edison (not a samurai), which is that genius (which I’m not claiming) is 1 percent inspiration and 99 percent perspiration. Alpinism appears to have a similar ratio, which of course brings me back to my perspiring all over myself just last week. Trudging up what felt like the eight millionth pitch of steep snow and ice on our summit day back in Pakistan, I couldn’t help but think how glad I was that I’d carried so many heavy packs full of rocks and water up local hillsides and gotten through so many hateful garage workouts at home in the years prior. I do remember being tired, of course, but I also remember thinking, “Huh. Training, it works.” 我认为，为了攀登任何有难度的路线，就必须要为之投入时间。这不足为奇。但问题主要在于，你的预期回报是什么。你是否也和我一样，枯燥的核心训练带来的更多的是痛苦而非快乐（是的）。在我看来，负重背心和10周的耐力周期训练并不是什么高体验感活动。训练日志、心率监测器和撸铁都不是我最感兴趣的事情，步履不停，追逐云端，感受自由，攀登不息才是终极目标。在山巅之上肆意的笑，值得所有的泪水和汗水。 My point is that in order to climb anything worthwhile you’re going to need to put the time in. This should not be a surprise. But what might be is how satisfying it is when you realize the returns. If you’re anything like me, core workouts far more easily evoke misery than happiness. Weighted vest box step-ups and 10-week endurance cycles are not leisure activities in my world. Training calendars, heart rate monitors, and heavy weights aren’t among my favorite things, but moving upward, head in the clouds, feeling strong, free, and climbing high are. Laughing on the mountain, if not the battlefield, is worth all the crying. 因为这是一个户外探险类主题的文章，那我就从身体方面，简单讲述一下我认为你想要了解的，如何攀爬像Link Sar这样一座山。 Because this is an organization dediCATed to that part of the adventure, here’s the very short version of what I’ve learned about what you need, physically speaking, to climb a mountain like Link Sar. 首先，你需要有氧能力作为基础。对这一点最好的解释是，在高海拔地区，人的身体无法进行高效的体能输出。没有充足的氧气，我们就无法充分发力，所以身体就需要尽可能的在低耗能的情况下高输出。对我来说，我是通过长达20年的跑步和15年的几乎不间断的攀登建立的有氧基础，这既是为了爱好，也是我作为高山向导的工作。这意味着要花很多时间缓慢上坡，这个过程可以很好的锻炼腿部肌肉和有氧能力。 我的夏季都是在接近路线上徒步，在山里爬山爬雪爬冰。到目前为止，我登顶胡德山 (Mont Hood) 的次数已经远超200次，登顶勃朗峰 (Mont Blanc) 和马特洪峰 (Matterhorn) 的次数更是无法计算。休息时我会选择跑步和攀岩，这些在阿尔卑斯地区都很容易实现。也会去俄勒冈州的Smith Rock，或者在喀斯喀特山脉的注视下爬上滇缅公路上的碎石山， 到了冬天，我几乎每天都会滑雪或者攀冰，和客户、和朋友，或者就我独自一人。每次累计垂直爬升大约都有1000米左右。 春天和秋天，我通常也会做一些类似的事情，会有更多技术攀登和个人攀登计划，当然也会有一些探险活动。 总之，我不会太担心我的有氧基础。 First off, you’re GONNA need an aerobic base. The best way to explain that, in my understanding, is that in the high mountains the human body is simply not capable of a high-end effort. Without adequate oxygen, we can’t go hard, so we need to make our low ends as effective as we can. For me that was built through 20-plus years of running and about 15 years of near-constant climbing, both for fun and through my work as a mountain guide. That means a lot of hours going slowly uphill, developing both leg strength and aerobic fitness in the process. My summers are spent hiking trails on approaches, and climbing on snow, ice, and rock in the mountains. At this point I’ve probably been to the top of Mount Hood over two hundred times (and on the mountain hundreds more), and up Mont Blanc and the Matterhorn more already than I’d like to count. On my days off I’m running and rock climbing, often in the ALPS where big vert is easy to find, but equally often sneaking in a lap around Smith Rock after work here in Oregon, crawling up the gravel hill on Burma Road as the Cascades look on, or pulling my hardest on our tiny holds only to fall off again. In the winters I’m ski touring or ice climbing with my guests, my friends, or by myself almost every day, slowly racking up vertical—three, four, or five thousand feet at a time. In the spring and fall I’m usually doing some version of the same, often with more technical climbing and personal adventures, and of course Expeditions peppered in there as well. As a result, I don’t worry much about my base. 相反，我必须专注于其他一些事情，但在我开始讲之前，让我先定义一下我所做的攀登类型。针对性很重要，我在为一件很特别的事情做训练，那就是高海拔阿式攀登。我这样说是因为，我们都是在有限的时间和资源下，去实现我们对高山的追求。概括总结本就是登山运动员的专长。我和大多数攀爬者一样，都需要针对某项事情去做专项训练。 对我来说，这就意味着我需要出色的有氧能力，强壮的不知疲劳的双腿，以及能够在复杂的多地形环境下长时间负重攀登和核心力量。 Instead, I have to concentrate on a few other things, but before I get into them let me first try to define the type of climbing I do. Specificity is important, and I’m training for a very particular thing, which is exploratory alpine climbing at what just about qualifies as high altitude. I say this because we all have limited time and reSources to put toward our mountain pursuits, and while generalization is in itself in many ways the specialty of the alpinist, I and most other climbers still have to train primarily for one thing in order to do it well. For me, that thing essentially requires that I have exceptional aerobic capacity, strong, fatigue-resistant legs, and an upper body that can support climbing and moving on a variety of terrain for a long time while carrying a load. |
| 在我的实践中，阿式攀登需要的体能要远高于传统攀登，因为它需要涉及到大量的技术攀登。会遇到持续垂直或者仰角的攀冰或者混合攀，难度通常会在WI5或者M7，有时也会遇到岩石路段或者需要器械攀登的地方，或许会是5.11或者A2难度。我认为，如果一条高海拔路线可以攀登，那么它的自由攀登难度不会比这更高。也可以为了提高速度选择器械攀登，这将会更简单。但大岩壁的器械攀登实在也不是我的菜。与此同时，器械攀登对技术的要求，比纯粹的攀岩或者混合攀要低很多，因为器械攀登不需要特定的move或者sequence，能在极限的难度线或者抱石线上锻炼你的力量和技巧。所以，我的训练并没有专注于单臂引体向上或者指力训练上，因为在山上我不需要爬5.14或V10。我只需要能爬5.10，或者和这个难度水平相当的冰壁和冰岩混合路段。但需要做到重装情况下全天及多日持续的体能输出，并保证在需要的时候可以稳定先锋。 Alpinism, in my practice at least, is more demanding than traditional mountaineering in that it involves a great deal of technical climbing, often at a fairly high level—sustained sections of vertical to overhanging ice and mixed climbing up to usually around WI5 and M7, as well as the occasional rock or aid section of up to about 5.11 or A2. For me, if a route is going to go, it’s unlikely to involve much free climbing that’s harder than that as I’ll just start aiding for the sake of speed, and big-wall-style aid lines with more severe difficulties aren’t really my thing. At the same time, this style of climbing is less technically demanding than pure, hard rock or mixed climbing as there’s rarely a particular move or sequence that stretches one’s strength, power, and technique the way an extreme route or boulder problem would. As a result, my energies aren’t focused on one-armed pull-ups or crushing finger strength because I don’t need to climb 5.14 or V10 in the mountains; I just need to be able to climb 5.10 and its ice and mixed equivalents all day long, day after day, with a pack on, and to be able to pull out a harder lead now and again if I have to.
棘手的地方在于，阿式攀登者在非技术路段同样需要快速且安全的移动，尤其是在大量的坡度适中的冰雪路段。这可能意味着冰爪前齿要无数次面对子弹般坚硬的冰层，或者像Link Sar常见的那样，在比人身还高的雪里挖雪洞。为了做到这些，登山者们就需要高效调动他们的心脏、肺部和腿部。为了满足这些条件，我主要在做两件事：加强有氧能力和腿部的肌肉耐力。这两件事在过去7年里，占了我训练时间的70%。这使得我保持了高水平的高海拔攀爬能力。剩下30%时间，用于维持我的技术攀登水平、核心训练、综合力量（推力、拉力等）以及腿部力量。 The tricky part is that the alpinist also needs to be able to climb quickly and securely on less technical terrain, especially moderately angled snow and ice, for long periods of time. That could mean endless front-pointing up bullet-hard ice or, as was far too common on Link Sar, trenching upward through deep, soul-sucking snow. To do this, the alpinist needs to have developed a high degree of efficiency in their heart, lungs, and legs. Because of these demands, I’ve focused my training primarily on two things: aerobic fitness and muscular endurance in my legs. Those two goals have occupied probably 70 percent of my training time over the last seven years or so that I’ve been focused on high-level alpine climbing. The other 30 percent is spent on maintaining my technical climbing, core strength, general strength (pushing, pulling, etc.), and leg strength. 对于熟悉“Uphill Athlete”课程的人来说，对Zone 1和Zone 2有氧运动的强调不是新鲜事了，但就像我多年以来对客户说的一样：高海拔登山更像是马拉松，而非短跑冲刺。如果有一天能在山上快速跑起来，那就太棒了，但现在缓慢探索山峰已经足够令人满足了。如果有一天我不再那么关心阿式攀登，或许我会花时间来进行其他这些训练，但明显短期内没这个可能。 This emphasis on Zone 1 and 2 aerobic effort is probably not new to anyone familiar with the world of Uphill Athlete, but as I’ve heard myself telling clients countless times over the years, mountain climbing is more marathon than sprint. It would be neat to run fast one day, but exploring the mountains on foot is satisfying enough for now. If I quit caring about expedition climbing so much, perhaps I could find the time to train for those things instead, but since it’s not likely to happen anytime soon.
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