转一篇这双鞋的review,懒得翻译了,哪位有时间的可以帮着翻译一下
Optimus Primetime (Fnt7a+) Trowbarrow Quarry
It’s been a quite a few years since I last climbed in Red Chili’s and during this first foray I was not overly impressed with the general fit, performance or construction of these spiciest of rock shoes. So, as you can imagine, when I first tried on the Coronas my expectations were pretty low. Thanks to the great weather over the last few weeks I have spent plenty of time out on the crag (as I hope have you), and have given the Coronas a fair bit of field testing, and guess what, I like them!
The Fit
The semi-asymmetric lasting is close and friendly on the feet and I have experienced no problems from rubbing or abrasiveness from poorly placed stitching lines. The tongue is nice and flexible and doesn’t cut into the top of your foot when you really get over your toes; they also retain their shape pretty well.
Usage
I have mainly been using the Corona whilst bouldering on my local limestone crags in south Cumbria, but they have also been taken on a number excursions into the Lake and Peak Districts, with the ascending terrain varying from vertical to super steep, and so far they’ve done a stalwart job for me wherever I have been.
"perhaps a slight penchant toward the vertical realm"
What has stood out for me so far has been their edging ability, as they have performed especially well on more precision styles of climbing. The inside and outside edge of the toe box is particularly precise. I feel that their smearing abilities will improve with time, although according to the manufacturer one of the reasons for the demise of this shoe is its ability to retain a stiff forefoot. So it’s ideally suited for those of you who prefer more support on vertical ground, but perhaps not a shoe for all you smearing wads out there.
Many of my local crags involve quite a lot of heel work and for this I found the heel of the Corona to be pretty effective. I haven’t experienced any movement or slippage due to the neat low volume fit, and there is enough rubber to give you protection without losing feel. The extra rubber on and around the toe is also a nice bonus giving that bit more grip when toe hooking.
Construction
First impressions would conclude that this is a well made shoe. I have not had any problems with stitching coming undone or the rubber rand separating from the shoes. Couple this with the fact that they become pretty comfy I can see this shoe lasting well after long days of heavy hammer.
Downsides
Okay so that’s the good points, any drawbacks? My main concern is that they have stretched quite a lot, and in my opinion I think it would be best to buy tight and then spend a bit of time and effort stretching them out to your foot. Not the most pleasant thing in the world to do but worth it in the long run. You don’t want to get a few months down the line and end up with baggy shoes. During the initial stage of breaking them in they do feel a bit clumpy but this will reduce considerably after around 7 sessions.
Summary
There is no such thing as the perfect rock shoe, an obvious statement but never the less an accurate one. A bit boring of me to say but I feel that the Corona is a good all-rounder, with perhaps a slight penchant toward the vertical realm. Essentially though this puppy is as at home down the wall as it is on the crag, be it bouldering, multi-pitch or both.
