本帖最后由 wbyyhy 于 2011-10-19 16:30 编辑 川口塔群峰位于巴基斯坦北方山区,在中巴边境附近,而所有的川口塔群峰都位于同一条脊线,基本走势为从西北方向往西南方向分布。高海拔,大岩壁,是攀岩高手眼中的奥斯卡。主要有: 1.大川口塔峰(Great Trango Tower),海拔6286米。 2.川口塔峰,也通常被称呼为“无名塔”(Nameless Tower或Trango Tower),海拔6231M。 3.乌利巴霍(Uli Biaho)塔峰,海拔6109米。 4.希普顿(Shipton)峰海拔5900米,西南壁相对高度1342米。 以上山峰的每条线路基本都1000米以上,平常人就是走楼梯爬个1000米(300层)高的大楼也累拉跨了,何况在高海拔,基本垂的岩壁上风吹雪打,难度啊。但每座山峰基本都很多次登顶,具体就不罗列了,都是外国人,目前为止没有一个中国人登顶,这是为什么呢?俄罗斯老娘们儿都登顶大川口塔啦,中国老爷们儿加油啊!先来张远景照。 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ |
本帖最后由 wbyyhy 于 2011-11-26 10:18 编辑 这地方的标志是川口塔峰,也通常被称呼为“无名塔”(Nameless Tower或Trango Tower),海拔6231M。有点象男人的命根子。 --------------------------------------------------------- ============================= A route description from Alpinist Issue 11's Mountain Profile of Trango Tower (6239m). This photo, of the south and east faces of Trango Tower, shows the following routes: 3. Gran Diedre Desplomado (VI 5.11 A4, 1100m, Delale-Schaffter-Fauquet-Piola, 1987). 12. Claire de Lune (VI 5.10d A3, 1230m, Besson-Gaillan-Maret-Roux, 1999). 5. Spanish Route (ED: 5.10a A3, 1500m, Clavel-Gallego-Ros-Seiguer, 1989). 1. British Route (VI 5.10 A2, 1100m, Anthoine-Boysen-Brown-Howells, 1976). 6. Eternal Flame (VI 5.12c A0, 35 pitches, Albert-Gullich-Stiegler-Sykora, 1989). 2. Slovenian Route (VI 5.11 A0, 900m, Cankar-Knez-Srot, 1987 [FFA: VI 5.12, Albert-Gullich-Munchenbach, 1988]). 8. Run For Cover (VI 5.11 A3+, 1000m, Child-Wilford, 1992). 4a. Cowboy Direct (VII 5.13a, Bechtel-Lilygren-Model-Skinner, 1995; climbs bottom of Slovenian Route to the Shoulder, then takes new ground before connecting with the Swiss-Polish Route to reach the summit). 4. Swiss-Polish Route (VI 5.10 A3, 1100m, Kurtyka-Loretan, 1988). 7. Steppenwolf (VII 5.10 A4+, 1100m, Minamiura, 1990). In 2006, a Slovenian expedition managed the Tower's first one-day and first all-female ascents, via the Eternal Flame route, and a repeat of the Slovenian Route. [Photo] John Middendorf ------------------------ 6号线路是著名的永恒的火焰线路 |