本帖最后由 崇幄 于 2024-10-27 21:33 编辑 1970年,莱茵霍尔德·梅斯纳尔与肯特‧梅斯纳尔兄弟成功由鲁泊尔岩壁首次登顶南迦帕尔巴特峰;于下山时,肯特被卷入雪崩中死亡。之后,无数高手尝试此岩壁都是铩羽而归,除了波兰墨西哥联队于1985年和史蒂夫豪斯于2005年在该岩壁建立的两条新线路,从1970年到现在再没有第四个团队或个人尝试成功 n May, David Goettler and Benjamin Vedrines left for an alpine-style attempt at the famous Rupal Face on Nanga Parbat. Few details are known, but they’ve since returned without climbing the face to the summit. Rising nearly five kilometres from its base to the top, the Rupal Face is a rarely-tried objective considered to be the biggest wall in the himalayas. At 4,600 metres, it’s never been climbed in winter. The First Ascent was in 1970 by REInhold Messner and his brother Gunter, who tragically died during the Descent. In 1976, Hans Schell and team climbed a long route from the Rupal side which avoids the face. It’s been repeated several times. In 1985, a Polish-mexican team established a new route up the right side of the face. And in September 2005, Steve House and Vince Anderson climbed a new line directly up the face at VII 5.9 M5 WI4 over eight days. One of the most epic stories to come from the Rupal Face was in 1988 when Barry Blanchard, Mark Twight, Ward Robinson, and Kevin Doyle made an attempt. An electrical storm forced them to retreat down the Merkyl Gully. After clipping into one ice screw, the four climbers withstood 30 minutes of avalanches before continuing down. Under heavy snow they switched from rappelling to down-climbing. They accidentally dropped their ropes, which led to the scary realization they had to downclimb. After 300 metres, Robinson found a bag left by a Japanese rescue party which was filled with pitons, ropes and food. It saved their lives. An excerpt from Blanchard’s book The Calling, reads: “I saw fear, and resolve, in his eyes. The four of us stood anchored to one tubular drive-in ice screw. It was hitched with a purple bar-tacked sling the width of my ring finger, which, if it were loaded with 1,000 pounds, would sever. When the four of us had snapped tight to it we must have hit it with over eight hundred pounds. We stood at 25,300 feet on the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat, the ninth-highest mountain in the world. We were 1,300 feet below the summit and we had nearly 14,000 feet of the face to descend. I twisted in another screw.” 南迦帕尔巴特峰(乌尔都语:نانگا پربت、印地语:नंगा परबत,罗马化:Nāngā Parbat [naːŋɡaː pərbət̪])位于喜马拉雅山脉西段巴控克什米尔地区,海拔8,126米,是世界第九高峰。 Nanga Parbat在乌尔都语中是“裸体之山”的意思,这是因为它附近没有能与它比拟的高山存在。此外nanga(नग्न)一词在梵文中同样也表示“裸体”的意思。 南方的鲁泊尔岩壁标高差为世界最大,达4,800米;此外西边的迪亚米尔岩壁同样著名的难以攀爬,此山因为发生了许多次惨重的山难而被称之为“悲剧之山”、“恶魔之山”。 |
本帖最后由 崇幄 于 2024-10-27 22:50 编辑 强大如胡马,也没能搞定此岩壁 Asia, Asia, Pakistan, West Himalaya, Nanga Parbat (8,126m), Rupal Face, New Route Attempt Publication Year: 2004. Nanga Parbat (8,126m), Rupal Face, new route attempt. The Slovenian, Tomaz Humar, was hoping to make an audacious solo ascent of a new route on the huge Rupal Face. From the beginning of July he made several attempts to acclimatize on the 1970 South East Pillar (aka Messner Route) with other climbers on his team but each time poor weather and conditions prevented him gaining much height. In the third week of July he made a fourth attempt on the almost 5,000m-high route with Croatian, Stipe Bozic. They camped above 6,000m. From there Humar set out solo to climb to 7,000m and return. However, at around 6,500m he gave up in the warm temperatures and deep unstable snow that had characterized conditions throughout his stay. As there was simply no chance that the face would improve, the team went home. Lindsay Griffin, U.K. |