| 本帖最后由 高兴就好 于 2012-1-20 08:03 编辑 借用陶瓷虾虾总在别论坛的信息： 链接：（https://www.pioletsdor.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=201&Itemid=348&lang=en） 另链接我在其他帖子的链接：https://bbs.8264.com/thread-1122781-1-1.html 后来又增加了K2,央莫龙 天山区域1、四姑娘区域2、贡嘎区域3、其他四川1、特殊极高海拔1 国人2.5、老外5.5 1、斯洛文尼亚的雪莲峰东壁等-----Xuelian North East (6 249m) First Ascent by West Ridge (2,400m: ED2 AI5 and M5+) - Arête of Trust - by Ales Holc, Peter Juvan and Igor Kremser. Descent by South East Face (2,000m: AI3 60-80°). https://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=38468 2、法国人的幺妹北壁---Siguniang (6 250m) North West Face. New Route - Ni Hen Piao Liang (1,300m: 5 M6) to right of Fowler-Ramsden Inside Line and Russian routes. Maël Baguet and Dimitri Messina. Five days round trip. Descent by North Ridge. https://www.ffcam.fr/index.php?alias=actus_montagne&insidefile=ffcam_actuDetail.html&moid=4&tplentry=br&function=display&oid=T005:4oszqxnuk28e (French) 3、孙斌-李宗利的幺妹南壁Siguniang (6 250m) South Face - new route. Variants to the line attempted by Philippe Batoux et al in 2006. Sun Bin and party. Alpine-style. More information to come. No link Minya Konka Range 4、日本人的达多漫因Daddomain (6 380m)---09年金冰镐获得者 East Face first ascent - Ame ni mo Makezu (1,900m: 21 pitches: ED1 WI4 M5R). Alpine-style. Fumitaka Ichimura, Ryo Masumoto, and Takaaki Nagato. https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/article.aspx?id=4286； 5、美国人的日乌且Mt Grosvenor (6 376m) West Face. New Route right of Central Couloir. Black Wolves and Blue Poppies (ca 1,300m: AI6 WI4+ M5+) by Chris Gibisch and Jeff Shapiro Two bivouacs on face; four-day round trip from camp. https://chrisgibisch.blogspot.com/ 6、严冬冬，周鹏等的嘉子西壁Jiazi (6 540m) West Face. New route and first ascent to the summit. Second ascent of peak. Liberal Dance (1,550m, M6, WI3, 55°) by Yan Dongdong and Zhou Peng Also Reddomain (6 112m). North Face, first ascent. Remember Chris (1 000m, AI2 55° snow) by Yan and Zhou, and Xiao Gongga (Little Konka, 5,928m) south face, new route Thrill (600m: M6 50°) by same pair with Li Shuang. https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/article.aspx?id=4578 7、奥地利美女无氧K2 (8 611m)-------世界女子一姐，14座8000米全无氧 With her ascent of the North Ridge of K2, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner became the first women to climb all 14 8,000m peaks without oxygen. https://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/gerlinde_climbs_k2_to_complete_8000ers_without_o2/ 8、TIM、刘勇、曾山、阿苏Yangmolong (6 060m)
还有西藏单独列的三个： 1、卓奥友Cho Oyu - Pt 7 570m First ascent of North West Face of Pt 7,570m (right of Cadiach-Ruckensteiner North Ridge). Traverse to Camp 2 on Normal Route and then down. ca 1,100m, 55° snow and UIAA III rock. Climbed solo by Jordi Tosas 8pm to around 6am. No link 2、瑞士机器希夏邦马速攀Xixabangma (8 027m) Ueli Steck soloed a combination of routes on the right part of the south face to make a rapid 10.5-hour ascent to main summit. https://www.uelisteck.ch/en/news/news/230.html 3、纳木纳尼Gurla Mandata (7 694m) First traverse. New route South West Ridge up - North West Flank down. Kazuya Hiraide and Kei Taniguchi. Five bivouacs -alpine style. Abandoned original plan of South East Face as too dangerous. No Link |
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