2012年海登-肯尼迪沿东壁首登K7峰的登山报告。

这次攀登共三人，23岁的美国新锐登山者海登-肯尼迪，中国山界的老熟人凯尔-邓普斯特，2011年凭借K7西
峰的攀登赢得金冰镐奖的斯洛文尼亚年轻登山者诺瓦克。下面是地址
https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/all/bd-athlete-hayden-kennedy-reports-on-new-route-on-k7s-east-face-with-urban-novak-and-fellow-bd-athlete-kyle-dempster
下面发一张他们的登顶线路图

2012-10-22 20:06 上传

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登山报告内说下周会公布拜塔布拉克峰的攀登报告，可到现在也没等到。
我英语不太好，借助词典能勉强看明白，哪位山友英语好，发扬雷锋精神
把这篇登山报告翻译完传上来就太棒了，那将是山界幸甚，山友幸甚呀！

等楼下大师翻译

期待他们发Ogre的报告，仔细研究下。wbyyhy兄别忘了发帖子哦

严重支持

Ogre的报告还没出来吗？

我试译一下吧，估计需要几天时间，明天分段发上来。

BD athlete reports on new route on K7's east face with Urban Novak and fellow BD athlete Kyle Dempster
BD运动员Hayden Kennedy与Urban Novak ，Kyle Dempster搭档攀登K7东壁新路线的报告
Black Diamond athlete Hayden Kennedy spent the summer in Pakistan, and scored new routes on two 7000-meter peaks, K7 and The Ogre. Below is Hayden’s compelling report on his ascent of K7’s east face with Urban Novak and fellow BD athlete Kyle Dempster. Next week we will post Dempster’s report on he and Hayden’s new route on The Ogre with BD athlete Josh Wharton.
Hayden Kennedy在巴基斯坦了度过了一个夏天，并开辟了K7和Ogre两座7000米级山峰上的新路线。以下是Hayden对于K7东壁攀登的确信报告，同伴是Urban Novak和Kyle Dempster。下周我们将发布Dempster关于Ogre新路线的报告，同伴是Hayden和Josh Wharton.

hollowmoon 发表于 2012-10-29 22:34 BD athlete reports on new route on K7's east face with Urban Novak and fello ...

The Pakistani Double-Header
Part 1 – Onward through the fog on the East Face of K7
巴基斯坦双向标
第一部分 穿越K7东壁迷雾，向前
       
Snow pelts our faces; the wind rips through to our bones as we ponder our current predicament. Kyle peers around a steep rocky corner into the unknown and shakes his head, disheartened by what he can see. We have been climbing for nearly 20 hours and there isn’t in a bivy in sight.
The snow falling all around us raises the question of bailing. The climbing has taken so much that it’s either send or leave our dream of climbing the East Face of K7 behind.
Kyle and I look at each other. “Maybe it’s time to call it—we are totally worked and dehydrated, and it’s storming.” Urban replies with a calm smile, “But this is what we came for. Climbing K7 was our choice. We must keep going!” The words from our Slovenian friend seem to trigger a new energy for all of us. We put our heads down and climb onward through the fog.
冻雪裹挟在脸上，冷风吹透了骨髓，我们正在估量着当前的困窘境地。Kyle反复审视一块不知通向何处的陡峭岩角，所见的景象令人沮丧，他摇了摇头。我们已经攀登了将近20个小时，而视线中还没有营地的踪影。落在我们周围的大雪引发了下撤的问题，这段攀登消耗太多了，这也使我们远离或放弃了攀登K7东壁的梦想。我和Kyle对视着：“或许是时候闪人了，我们耗尽力气而且脱水了，还有这暴风雪。” Urban带着冷静的微笑答道：“我们来这里就是为了这个，攀登K7是我们的选择，我们必须继续前进！”这个斯洛文尼亚哥们儿的话似乎激起我们新的动力，我们低下脑袋，向上攀登，穿越迷雾。

=========================

The first time I climbed with either Kyle Dempster or Urban Novak was in 2011 in Pakistan’s Charakusa Valley. Towards the beginning of that trip Kyle and I climbed a new route on the West Face of Hassan Peak (6300m). On the summit we had an amazing view of the seldom-seen East Face of K7. As the wall dipped in and out of the clouds we could see a weakness that led right to the summit without joining any ridges—a completely independent new route on K7. After the 15-hour rappel off Hassan we were back in base camp preparing for K7. Urban’s partner wasn’t psyched to climb, but when Urban would come to visit Kyle and I could see the fire in his eyes. He was ready for a rowdy adventure in the mountains. We invited him to climb with us on K7. A Slovenian is a crucial part of the rack if you get lucky enough to have the opportunity to climb with one.
2011年在巴基斯坦Charakusa山谷，我第一次与Kyle Dempster 及Urban Novak搭档攀登。最开始我和Kyle沿Hassan峰（6300m）西壁的新路线登顶，在山顶上我们惊鸿一瞥了极少为人所见的K7东壁。当山峰在云雾之间时隐时现，我们能看到一条捷径，它直达顶峰，没有任何其他山脊相连接——这是K7上一条完全独立的新路线。15小时的绳降后，我们从Hassan峰回到大本营，开始为攀登K7做准备。Urban的搭档并没有（为这次攀登）做好心理准备，但当Urban本人来拜访我和Kyle时，我们能看到他眼里燃起的激情火焰。我们邀请他一起攀登K7，他已经为这次粗暴的冒险做好了准备。如果有幸能与一个斯洛文尼亚人搭档攀登，他会是队伍整体中一个重要的支撑。

Looking back now, I am positive that we didn’t really know what we were heading into and of course we didn’t have a plan at all. At four in the morning we left the comforts of base camp and by 10 am we had started up the East Face. Before we knew it we had climbed to about 6300m and night had fallen. We stopped to chop a ledge to sit on for a few hours. We all felt confident that the next morning we would climb to the summit, but when a thought like that enters your head the mountains slap you back to reality. In the morning we awoke to tons of fresh snow and a cold wind. The thought of climbing through the storm entered our minds but we soon realized that we were too low on the face to even consider going to the summit in such poor conditions. Spindrift pounded us as we fought our way down the mountain.
现在回想起来，我确信当时我们并不真的明白要面对什么，当然也完全没有靠谱的方案。凌晨4点，我们离开舒适的营地，10点开始攀爬K7东壁。在不知不觉中，我们已经爬到大约6300m，夜幕降临了。我们停下来，砍出一个平台，坐着歇了几个小时。大家都信心满满明早就可以爬上顶峰，但这个想法刚从我们的脑袋里冒出来，K7就一个巴掌把我们拍回现实。早上，我们在成吨的新雪和冷峭的山风中醒来。我们本想在暴风雪中继续攀登，但很快意识到此时所处的海拔太低了，以至于在如此恶劣的条件下无法虑及登顶。（于是）在雪浪的拍击中，我们杀出一条下撤的路。

hollowmoon 发表于 2012-10-29 22:36 The Pakistani Double-HeaderPart 1 – Onward through the fog on the East F ...

We returned to our homes after K7 with a new friendship and a climbing partnership that seemed strong. Kyle and I were extremely bummed that we didn’t summit K7 but Urban had a very different attitude. “That was the perfect adventure for all of us. Alpine climbing isn’t always about the summits—it’s about the lessons that come from both failure and success. Plus, it makes for a great story!” When I heard Urban say that, something in my mind about climbing in the mountains changed. I realized he was right. Of course standing on a summit is powerful and incredible but when we fail is when we truly learn. For the rest of the year we planned to return to Pakistan in hopes of finishing K7.
这次K7攀登之后，我们回到家中，并且（与Urban）建立了似乎很牢固新友谊和攀登合作关系。我和Kyle因为没有登顶K7而非常沮丧，但Urban的态度却不同：“这对我们来说是完美的冒险，阿式攀登并不总意味着登顶——也是在成功和失败中的学习。另外，这也是个伟大的故事啊！” Urban说的这些让我们对于攀登的观点起了变化。我认识到他说的对，站在顶峰上固然能显示能力且（感觉）不可思议，但失败的时候才是真正上了一课。这一年剩下的时间里，我们计划重回巴基斯坦，希冀完成K7的攀登。

In December 2011 I went to the Torre Massif in Patagonia for two months and had a series of experiences that changed my life. I came home disillusioned with climbing, and I questioned my motivations for going into the mountains. I seriously debated not going back to Pakistan. After some guided mediation on a few scary trad routes in Indian Creek I realized that going back to Pakistan and climbing with Urban and Kyle was very important.
2011年12月，我花两个月时间去了趟（阿根廷）巴塔哥尼亚高原上的Torre Massif（托瑞地区，该地区有一系列3000m级的塔峰，因纬度较高，终年积雪，攀登难度大，适合阿式攀登），并且得到了改变我人生的一些经验。我回到家，对于攀登不再有幻想，而且质疑自己进入山区的动机。我认真地考虑不再回巴基斯坦了。（但是）在印度河谷几条唬人的传统路线上经过一些有目的的调整后，我认识到重回巴基斯坦与Urban和Kyle一起攀登这事儿是非常重要的。


[Kyle in the Skardu airport trying to check our bags in the midst of the craziness]
[在Skardu机场，Kyle正在抓狂地试图检查我们的行李]

In late June, Kyle and I packed our gear in Salt Lake City and enjoyed our last cheeseburgers and beers for the summer. Once my bags were checked, my cell phone turned off, and I was sitting in the international terminal I knew the trip was really happening. It was 111 degrees when we arrived in Islamabad and all we could manage was watching HBO in our hotel room. We did get in one day of sport climbing and sending 5.12a in such heat was probably the hardest thing we did all summer.
六月下旬，盐湖城，我和Kyle把我们的装备打包，尽享这个夏天最后的啤酒和奶酪汉堡。当我坐在国际航班航站楼，包裹拿去安检，手机关机，我知道这趟旅程真正开始了。当我们抵达伊斯兰堡，气温111度（这里可能是华氏，摄氏温度大约43-44度），我们所能做的就是呆在旅馆房间里看HBO的节目。就在这种高温下，某天我们（外出）运动攀并且红点了5.12a的路线，这可能是整个儿夏天最有收获的事情了。（这里可能不太准确，请帮忙纠正）

感谢hollowmoon的翻译，很精彩。
ogre峰的报告还是没发布，如果我看到了会及时发上来，大家共享。