| 本帖最后由 096 于 2015-1-18 14:46 编辑 PART I 线路介绍（含技术参数） 鲨鱼鳍峰中央直上.... The Shark’s Fin on 6,310m Meru Central (VII, 5.10 A4 M6 WI5) by Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin, and Renan OZTurk. They reached the summit on October 2, 2011, during a 12-day push. An estimated 25 attempts have been made on this wall since the early 1980s, including three by this Expedition’s members in the previous seven years. Reports on Anker and team’s previous attempts can be read in AAJ 2004 (pg 378) and AAJ 2009 (pg 309). The 1993 British expedition led by Paul Pritchard coined the name The Shark Fin (no apostrophe) for the east pillar of then-unclimbed Meru Central. .......  PART II 视频（含登顶线路动画演示） https://v.youku.com/v_show/id_XNDcwODMzODA4.html |
| PART III 本次登顶细节（配图并提供登山报告下载）The Shark's Fin Redux by Jimmy Chin The last move was merely a mantle: hands on the edge of a sharp granite ledge, a heel hook, and a press. When I pulled over the lip, I looked around, momentarily confused that there was nothing more to climb. I was sure there had to be one more obstacle, one more aid seam, one more mixed pitch, but there was only sky and swirling clouds. I stared in disbelief. October 2 is Mahatma Gandhi’s birthday, an auspicious day in India. In 2011 it was the day that Conrad Anker, Renan Ozturk, and I finally reached the 6,310-meter summit of the Shark’s Fin, otherwise known as Meru Central, deep in the Indian Garhwal. This was Conrad’s third attempt on the Shark’s Fin’s infamous northeast buttress, and Renan’s and my second. I was sure there had to be one more obstacle, one more aid seam, one more mixed pitch, but there was only sky and swirling clouds. I stared in disbelief. After Babanov’s success, only one task remained: A summit via a direct line up the Shark Fin’s notorious granite face. RUSSIAN SOLOIST VALERY BABANOV was the first to summit Meru Central in 2001. Babanov estimated that 15 attempts had failed before his success, including one of his own the previous spring. During his aborted attempt he’d been following the same line we eventually climbed, up the prominent northeastern prow, but turned back at 5,800m. In September he chose a completely different route, far to the right of the Shark’s Fin, on the ice face (see his feature article in the 2002 AAJ). After Babanov’s success, only one task remained: A summit via a direct line up the Shark Fin’s notorious granite face. Conrad Anker’s personal history with the Shark’s Fin goes back decades. Of the peak’s 25-plus attempts over the last 25 years, two were by Mugs Stump, Conrad’s mentor as a climber and as a person. He showed Conrad the ropes, literally and metaphorically, and this was his dream climb. When Mugs died in a crevasse fall in 1992 in Alaska, Conrad wanted nothing more than to finish the route for his friend. His first attempt on the northeast prow came in 2003, with Doug Chabot and Bruce Miller. They attempted it in alpine style, climbing the bottom portion of the prow proper before exiting into ice flutings right of the main wall. Unconsolidated snow turned them back halfway up. 30°52′5″N 79°1′56″ The Shark’s Fin in all its gargantuan glory. The party hauled their supplies to mid-point before blasting off for the first direct ascent. FIVE YEARS LATER, Conrad recruited Renan and me for his next attempt. The main formation, he told me, featured a long alpine climb capped by an overhanging big wall that was steep enough to BASE jump. The route was perversely stacked against alpinists, since the most technical climbing, which required the heaviest gear, was near the top. All alpine-style attempts on this line up the main face had failed at nearly the same spot, the base of the overhanging headwall that starts at roughly 5,900 meters. We battled for 19 days on the same route. The iconic mountain seemed intent to haze us. We were constantly humbled by the sustained nature and the diversity of its hard climbing. We also grossly underestimated how cold it would be on the northeast-facing wall. Despite weathering a weeklong storm low on the route and rationing eight days of food into 19, we pushed to within two pitches of the summit. We could see it, yet it felt far away. To push on would have required us to spend the night out, and we had already stepped far over the line. We knew that in our state we would not make it. We felt shattered, physically and emotionally, as we rappelled through the night to our hanging high camp. Defeated, we returned to our normal lives haunted by those two unclimbed pitches. Yet they were a blessing. They provided motivation, and despite telling ourselves that climbing 98 percent of the route should be good enough, we obsessed privately about the unfinished pitches. IN 2009, Slovenian mountaineering legend Silvo Karo contacted Conrad about the climb. Conrad shared everything he knew, including beta on the best style to climb it in. We hoped Silvo’s team would succeed. But when Silvo didn’t make it, Conrad called with the news. All he said when he called was, “he didn’t make it.” It was silent for a few moments. I knew exactly what he meant. I paused and said, “I’m in.” It was clear that we all wanted to return. “He didn’t make it.” It was silent for a few moments. I knew exactly what he meant. I paused and said, “I’m in.” Conrad, the consummate professional, had really good notes from his first two attempts. We pored over them in preparation for the next expedition, strategizing every detail down to who would lead what pitches, how we could do it faster, lighter, and in better style. In the end we chose a hybrid alpine/capsule style. We took four ropes (two lead, two static); two haul bags; a portaledge; one stove; alpine, mixed, and aid gear; sleeping bags; and food for eight days. Conrad Anker rests in camp on the sheer granite blade of the Shark’s Fin. BACK ON THE ROUTE, we climbed in 48 hours what had taken us six days in 2008. Over the following few days we took advantage of an ideal cold-and-dry high pressure system. At the overhanging wall (we dubbed it the Indian Ocean Wall), which we reached after four more days of climbing, we saved time by linking aid pitches we’d done separately on our first attempt. We had a fright on one of these nights when one of the portaledge’s bars snapped in half, leaving us hanging in dangerous limbo thousands of meters above the ground. All I remember hearing was a loud creaking sound, then a CRACK! as the bar snapped from our collective weight and everything around us collapsed. All I remember hearing was a loud creaking sound, then a CRACK! as the bar snapped from our collective weight and everything around us collapsed. It was a worst-case scenario. This was our only shelter; our only spot to sleep on this huge steep face. We were silent for a long time. Then we went to work. We pounded a piton in between the broken bars and splinted it with three ice screws, hoping we wouldn’t need them up higher. The fix held but we weren’t sure for how long. HANGING THERE, we joked about our alpine redpoint attempt, how we’d fallen right at the chains but were going to send on this go. Despite the humor, doubt clouded us as we prepared to re-climb tenuous A4 and hard mixed. On the eve of our summit bid, our charmed weather broke, and it blew hard and snowed. The wind bounced our portaledge against the wall, reminding us of the days we spent stuck on the wall in 2008. We hunkered down hoping for the best. At midnight we looked out and saw stars. It was time. Launching at 2 a.m., we flew up our two fixed lines, from which Conrad led the poorly protected mixed pitch below the summit ridgeline. The force of Conrad’s will had carried us in 2008, and it carried us again in 2011. When we pulled over the ridge, we were blessed by the sun. At last we could face the final two pitches. The Gangotri Glacier shone far below. It was my lead, and I scrapped my way up, literally humping the knife-edge ridge to gain ground. After mixed climbing and 50 feet of aid, I built an anchor. Conrad came up and belayed me as Renan jugged the line below. Another 5.8 pitch, a simple mantle, and we were there. We embraced on the summit, humbly accepting that this time Meru had allowed us passage. Our dream, Mug’s dream, had been realized. triangle Go beyond the Shark’s Fin in our interview with Jimmy Chin. At midnight we looked out and saw stars. It was time. Jimmy Chin stands near the summit of Meru Central after successfully sending the infamous northeast buttress. Jimmy Chin |
| PART IV 历史攀登之一 2009: Meru Central (6,310m), northeast pillar (Shark’s Fin), attempt., by A. Grmovsek Meru Central (6,310m), northeast pillar (Shark’s Fin), attempt. ... At the end of August, Marko Lukic, Silvo Karo, and I traveled to Gangotri, hoping to climb the infamous and still virgin Shark’s Fin on Meru Central. This line has already repulsed more than 20 expeditions, many of them strong teams. However, in 2008 Anker, Chin, and Ozturk reached a point just 150m below the summit, spending 20 days on the wall climbing in capsule style (AAJ 2009). Assisted by beta from Anker’s team, we planned to climb fast, light, and in alpine style. After reaching base camp at Tapovan, we used unsettled weather to prepare advance base, acclimatize on the lower slopes of Shivling, and study the face. Our second phase of acclimatization was stopped by heavy snowfalls lasting almost one week. There was more than 1½m of fresh snow at higher elevations, and our tent at advanced base was destroyed. The weather then became stable and very cold. Despite the face being plastered in snow and ice, and our having acclimatized only to 5,600m, we decided to make an attempt. The weather forecast was good, deep snow on Shivling made our acclimatization program dangerous, and time was running out. The approach to the face took two laborious days; we waded through deep, soft snow, excavating our advanced base camp tent and equipment, and crossing the dangerous Meru glacier. On September 17 at 1 a.m. we started to climb. Our plan was to make the ascent in four days, spending the first night in a tent, and then hoping to find small ledges on the steep upper wall that would accommodate sitting bivouacs. On the lower snow slopes we found channels of reasonably hard snow and climbed quite After eight tiring hours we completed the initial 700m snow slope and started to climb rock on the diagonal ramp. The granite was covered with snow in many places, making climbing and route-finding harder than expected (up to M8). The two climbers following had to jumar with gear for all three, and our two tiny 9.1mm Joker ropes got worn super-fast on sharp granite edges. We got increasingly tired and finished the rock ramp just before nightfall. We expected to find a good place to set the tent but instead spent one hour cutting a small ledge out of snow and ice on which to sit. We were so tired and unmotivated that we didn’t melt snow for drinks or cook soup. The night was cold and uncomfortable, and Silvo’s feet got dangerously cold; he sustained minor frostbite. Morning brought sunshine and an easy decision—to go down. We were tired, many things had not gone according to plan, and the hardest part lay above. Our tactic was wrong: we were climbing too fast, we were too heavy, we had unsuitable equipment, we were not acclimatized, and there wasn’t enough motivation. With hard and complex climbs like Meru Shark’s Fin, these “beginner’s” mistakes count. By Andrej Grmovsek, Slovenia |
| 本帖最后由 096 于 2015-1-18 15:18 编辑 PART V 历史攀登之二 The American Alpine Journal 2007 - Mt. Meru Zveřejnil Webmaster v Po, 31/12/2007 - 00:00 The American Alpine Journal, 2007 Climbs and Expeditions: INDIA Page: 365-367 Meru Central, northeast face, variation. On September 17 Marek Holecek and I reached base camp at Tapovan, with the intention of climbing the Shark's Fin on Meru Central (6,310m). From the 18th to the 23rd we acclimatized and bouldered. On the 24th we transported our equipment to the base of the northeast face of Meru, crossing a 5,200m col. The next day we started on a capsule style-ascent, taking one portaledge, 200m of rope for fixing, the usual climbing hardware, and a few bolts. The following day we established our first camp, on the left edge of the lower snowfield at 5,250m. On the 28th, after moving our equipment up to the top left corner of the snowfield, we made our second camp at 5,650m, at the point where the snowfield joins the rock ridge. By October 2 wed climbed 200m up the rock ridge and made our third portaledge camp at 5,900m, more or less at the base of the Shark's Fin itself. The next day we climbed a chimney encased with snow and ice, then traversed into the corner toward the left edge of the headwall. We reached our high point on this line the next day, after having spent nine days on the face. It had been hard work, we were tired, and I was beginning to have health problems. Mt Meru ..... The northeast face of Meru Central (6,310m) with (1) the route climbed by the Czechs Holecek and Kreisinger for the fourth ascent of the mountain (7a M5 80°): (C) marks the site of their camps. (2) The Czech attempt on the Shark's Fin. (3) The original route, Shangri La, climbed by Babanov in 2001 (5c/6a A1/A2 M5 75°). The 2006 Japanese ascent, the third of the mountain, starts up 1 to above the first camp, where it slants right up the snowfield to reach the snow arête just left of the point marked 3. From here it continues up the Babanov route to the summit (5.10a M5 WI3 75°). Jan Kreisinger We returned to Camp 3 and the following day continued up a different line. With Marek in the lead, we climbed a steep rock step to reach the snowfield on the right side of the headwall and returned again to camp. On the 6th we went for the summit, making a rising traverse across the steep upper snowfield to join the last section of the Babanov route (the original route to the summit of Meru Central, climbed by the Russian Valeri Babanov, solo, in 2001.) This proved dangerous. Snow conditions were bad, with no possibility to arrange protection. Once we connected with the Babanov route, we found ourselves on good snow/ice and after seven long pitches reached the crest of the northwest ridge. From here we continued easily up the crest for 70m to the summit. We spent that night in a bivouac sack just beneath the crest and the following morning made it back to our portaledge at Camp 3. By mid-afternoon on the 9th we were down to the base of the wall and continued to Tapovan, reaching it that evening. We spent 13 days on the wall, placing two bolts and climbing 2,000m, with difficulties up to 7a M5 and 80°. Jan Kreisinger, Czech Republic Editor's Note: The compelling line of the Shark's Fin has repulsed numerous first-rate climbers. The best attempt so far has probably been that of Nick Bullock, Jules Cartwright, and Jamie Fisher, who in 1997 climbed to ca 6,100m on the left side of the prow before retreating. |
| 本帖最后由 096 于 2015-1-18 15:48 编辑 PART VII 历史攀登之四 2001 Valery Babanov wins Piolet d’or 2002 14.01.2002 by The Russian mountaineer was awarded the prestigious prize for his solo first-ascent of the north face of Meru Central Peak (6310m), located in India’s Garwhal. Valery Babanov is this year’s winner of the Piolet d’or 2002. The Russian mountaineer was awarded the prestigious prize for his solo first-ascent of the north face of Meru Central Peak (6310m), located in India’s Garwhal. He climbed the 2000m long route over a five day period from 17-22 September 2001 and encountered difficulties of up to 5+/6a, A1/A2, M5, 75°. It was Babanov’s second attempt at the route after a failed attempt in Spring 2001, and also his third consecutive nomination for the Piolet d’Or. The 36-year old mountaineer from Omsk (Siberia) received the award during the International Ice Fall Meet at Argentière-la-Béssée from Sir Chris Bonington, who presided the jury this year. Babanov’s ascent was chosen from a select group of six nominations that, according to the French GHM (Groupe de Haute Montagne) and Montagnes magazine, best represent the most important alpine achievements of the year. The other candidates this year included: Jim Bridwell and Spencer Pfingsten for the first ascent of ‘The Beast’ on the East Face of Dent Moose in Alaska, Marko Prezelj and Stephen Koch for the first ascent of ‘Luna’ on the SW Face of Dénali in Alaska, Mauro Bole, Mario Cortese and Fabio Dandri for the first ascent of "Woman and Chalk" on the East Face of Shipton Spire, Trango Towers in Pakistan, Patrick Bérhault for his Alpine Traverse and Yuri Koshelenko who, together with 11 mountaineers, climbed Lhotse central in Nepal. Congratulations to Babanov for both the award and his constancy and determination over these years! |
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