| 本帖最后由 dol528phin 于 2015-2-8 18:06 编辑 Ice Climbing Skills Special 攀冰技能大杂烩 I've been climbing ice for more than 30 years, and I still get chills before starting up a column of steep ice. Sure, modern ice tools and crampons, warm gloves, and easy-to-place screws have made ice climbing much eASIer than it used to be. These days, a new ice climber can follow short sections of near-vertical ice on her first day out. A competent rock climber can lead lower-angle ice climbs halfway through his first season on ice, as long as he gets enough mileage. Yet for many climbers, truly vertical ice—WI4+ and up—remains frightening territory. But it doesn’t have to be that way. As with any other form of climbing, the keys to confident ice climbing are the right techniques, systematic practice, and a modest amount of training. We asked seven of North America’s most experienced ice climbers to share their hard-won wisdom. Put their tips to work, and we guarantee you’ll be more comfortable—and safer—on steep ice. —Dougald MacDonald 从我开始攀冰到现在已经有三十年了，但我仍然在开始攀登一段陡峭的冰壁前感到很紧张。显而易见，现代化的冰镐和冰爪、保暖的手套和易于放置的冰锥都使得攀冰比之前容易很多。现如今，一个第一天攀冰的新人基本就已经可以跟攀一段较短的几近垂直的冰壁。一个具备一定能力的攀岩者，在积累了一定的攀冰里程数之后，就能在第一个冰季里先锋一段低角度冰坡。但对于很多攀冰者来说，真正的垂直冰壁——WI4+或者更高的系数——仍然令人心惊胆颤。 但事情可以不这样。和其他任何形式的攀登一样，自信攀冰的关键就在于正确的技巧、系统的练习、和大量的训练。我走访了7位北美最具攀冰经验的攀冰者来分享他们的智慧。把他们的窍门付诸实践，我们可以保证你将更加自信地——更加安全地——攀登陡峭的冰壁。 —Dougald MacDonald 这七位攀冰者是：来自加拿大艾伯塔的Barry Blanchard和Will Gadd、犹他州的Caroline George、科罗拉多的Clint Cook、Jack Roberts和Steve House，以及新罕布什尔的Mark Synnot。（攀冰者照片略） Technique: Squat, Stand, Swing By Will Gadd To lead vertical ice safely and efficiently (and not just get up it), you need to have toproped or followed at least 50 pitches of steep ice. There are no shortcuts to this process, no secret workouts or vitamins—just action. Hang a toprope on a steep piece of ice and go at it for five or six big sessions. Practice placing screws, reading the ice, and climbing with and without tools and/or crampons. Soon you’ll be champing at the bit to lead, rather than sketching up the crystal. Before starting a pitch, study the line to identify stemming grooves, ledges, and other stances to relax. I have yet to meet one waterfall ice climb where I couldn’t get at least five or six totally no-hands rests in 200 feet. For individual tool and foot placements, always look for concave features or pockets. Anything that looks like the inside of a mixing bowl is relatively good to swing or kick at; anything that looks like the outside of a mixing bowl will break off and shatter. Popular ice pitches often are so picked out with holes that you barely need to swing; practice hooking your tools in other climbers’ placements. Fresh ice will require much more work. Climbing vertical ice is a repeated sequence of three basic movements: squat, stand, and swing. 1. SQUAT With a solid tool placement overhead, keep your upper arm straight as you kick footholds for both feet at the same level. If your feet aren’t at the same horizontal position, the lower crampon may skate off the ice as you stand up. Note that you usually move your feet sideways and then up after each new tool placement—I make about four foot moves for every tool placement. Your knees should end up slightly below your hips. Look carefully for the footholds, taking advantage of any ledges, dishes, or holes in the ice. If your feet are bad, you’ll grip your tools too hard and get pumped. Eyeball your next placement while you’re resting. TIP: A good practice drill is to follow a steep pitch without crampons. It’s a great way to get you looking at your feet. 2. STAND Plan where your next tool placement will go: about 12 to 24 inches above your current placement, and roughly shoulder width away. Now stand up toward your upper tool. Almost all of the upward drive will come from your legs, like doing a squat in the gym; your arm only holds you into the wall. As you’re about halfway through standing up, rip upward aggressively on the lower tool like a pump handle. The sharp top of the pick will cut the ice and release the placement easily. TIP: The primary reason people get stuck tools is placing them side by side. If one tool is lower, it will be easier to rip out of the ice as you stand up. 3. SWING Keep your elbow near your ear as you swing; this will put the pick into the ice at full arm’s extension. Hook old placements or natural holes, or swing as often as it takes to get a really solid placement. Give the tool a sharp, downward tug; if it holds, it will stay put as long as you keep pulling down on it. Hang straight-armed from the new placement. You should be in a relAXEd position, as if you were standing on a ladder with staggered hands and both feet on the same rung. If you feel off-balance or tense, it’s usually because your upper tool is out to one side or your feet are not level. TIP: As you swing, watch the pick to make sure the placement is accurate, but then duck your head toward the ice as the pick connects. Inexperienced climbers look to the side; veterans let their helmet deal with the debris. Now, squat, stand, and swing again— and repeat to the top. In this sequence, either your legs are bent or your upper (pulling) arm is bent, but never both at the same time. Your natural inclination is to put a good tool into the ice, and then immediately pull up on it, bending your arm. Instead, move your feet and bend your knees while your arm is still straight—then bend your upper arm as you straighten your legs. TECHNIQUE PLUS
攀冰技巧：下蹲、站起、挥镐 由Will Gadd撰写 为了能够更安全有效地先锋垂直冰壁（不是指简单地爬上去），你需要顶绳或跟攀至少50条绳距的陡峭冰壁。在这一过程中没有捷径，没有秘诀更没有神奇的药片——只有亲身实践。在陡峭的冰壁上挂好顶绳，然后开始攀登，刷上五六遍。练习放置冰锥、读冰、无镐攀登和无爪攀登。很快，你就迫不及待地想尝试先锋了，而不是只在那里意淫啦。 在开始攀登之前，要先研究一下线路，辨识出线路上凹入的地方、边沿或者其他可以休息的地方。如果一条200英尺（约60米）高的冰瀑，没有5-6个不用手就能休息的地方，我是怎么也攀登不了的。 对于每一镐，每一爪而言，最好的入点就是冰壁上的凹点或冰洞。任何向内凹陷的地方都是挥镐和踢爪的好地方；而任何向外凸出的地方都容易断裂和破碎。在常有人攀爬的线路上都会有很多洞洞，这样你基本不需要挥镐；要练习在其他攀冰者打出的凹槽处钩挂冰镐。如果线路还没有人爬过，那就需要多费一些气力了。攀登垂直冰壁就是在往复地重复做三个基本动作：下蹲、站起、挥镐。 1. 下蹲 在超过头顶位置打下稳固的一镐后，保持持高镐的手臂伸直，然后将两个冰爪踢在同一水平线上。如果双脚不在同一水平位置上，位置较低的那只冰爪就可能在你站起的时候滑出来。注意，双脚开立两旁，然后在打入新的一镐之后再抬起——我每打一镐会上四步。起脚抬膝时，膝盖要低于臀部高度。仔细观察脚点，要利用冰壁上的边沿、凹面或冰洞。如果脚点踩的不好，你就会过度抓握冰镐，导致胳膊酸胀。在休息的时候，一定要观察好下一个打镐的地方。 小窍门：不穿冰爪跟攀一段陡峭冰壁是一个好的训练，这样可以使攀冰者更注意观察脚点。 2. 站起 计划下一镐要入冰的位置：高于现在这镐12到24英尺，左右偏移1肩宽。现在，向高处那镐的方向站起。而差不多所有向上站起的力量都是来源自你的双腿（不是靠胳膊拉起），像是在健身房做蹲起一样；而你的胳膊在整个过程中只起到了让你借助拉起贴近墙壁的作用。一边站起，一边向上使劲提低处的那只镐，感觉就像是提起加油站的油枪一样。冰镐鹤嘴上方的形状将会切冰，方便取出打入的镐。 小窍门：冰镐打入后卡住的主要原因是打镐的时候冰镐位置一左一右了。如果一支镐低，一支镐高，那在你站起的时候就很容易把冰镐提出来。 3. 挥镐 挥镐的时候，尽量保持肘部贴近耳朵；这样将使你以一个完整臂展的长度挥镐入冰。通过钩挂以前的冰镐点、自然冰洞或挥镐，来尽可能多地取得稳固的入镐。要干脆地向下拉打入的镐；如果向下拉这一下没有问题，那么你在向下拉镐站起身的时候也会没有问题。 再将新打入镐的那只胳膊伸直。这样你就应该又恢复到了一个放松的姿势，就像你站在梯子上，双手上下交错，双脚踩在同一横档上一样。如果你感到紧张或者不平衡，通常都是因为你高处的那支镐打得太靠外了，又或者是你的双腿没有站在同一水平上。 小窍门：挥镐的时候，眼睛要看着鹤嘴，以确保入冰点精准，但在鹤嘴与冰壁接触的霎那要马上要向冰壁低头。没经验的攀冰者会看向一旁，而有经验的攀冰者会让他们的头盔来处理碎冰。 现在，再次重复下蹲，站起，挥镐——然后一直重复这套动作，直到到达顶部。 在这个过程中，要么你的双腿是弯的，要么握着高处的那支镐的胳膊是弯的，但永远不要两者同时弯曲。人自然的本能就是在冰上打稳固的一镐，然后马上曲臂拉起。但是，不该这样，要在你胳膊还是伸直的时候先屈膝上脚——然后，再在你双腿站直的时候开始弯曲握着高处冰镐的那只胳膊。 额外技巧
 Training: Get Specific By Will Gadd Steep ice climbing requires repetitive and surprisingly consistent movement from the bottom to the top of a route. The ideal training would be to toprope steep ice over and over. But unless you live in Ouray or Canmore, most climbers have to come up with alternatives. Any training should mimic real ice movements as closely as possible. Before I climbed steep ice in Ouray for 24 hours straight last season, my warm-season training consisted primarily of rock climbing combined with thousands of air squat/stands and staggered-grip pull-ups. 1. SQUAT/STAND This exercise simulates the basic movement of steep ice climbing. Stand at the base of a stone wall, playground apparatus, a tree with low-hanging branches, or any other place you can hang a tool with the grip at about head height. With your toes against the wall, grasp the tool and drop into a squat so your kneecaps are at hip level. Now quickly stand up and reach high overhead with the other tool or your bare hand, holding the lock for a second or so. (See illustration above.) Drop back down and repeat. Do 25 of these movements with each hand pulling, and you’ve covered most of the movements required to climb a pitch of steep ice. If a set of 25 reps on one side is too hard, do sets of whatever number works to get to a total of 25. If this exercise feels too easy, you’re not squatting deep enough or going fast enough through the movement. As you get stronger, you can add a backpack with weight to make the exercise harder. 2. STAGGERED GRIP PULL-UPS If you don’t have a good place for squat/stands with an ice tool, supplement normal “air squats” (squats with no weight) with staggered-grip pull-ups. Hang one ice tool over a pull-up bar and grab the bar directly with your other hand, so your hands are staggered vertically about 12 inches. Start fully dead-hanged, pull up, and hold a good crisp lock-off at the top of each pull-up. For each workout, do about 25 percent of the number of pull-ups as you do squats. If you’re not strong enough to do pull-ups, leave your feet on the ground, but go through the full motion including the lock-off. One day, you’ll be doing pull-ups. 3. SWING A STICK I train for swinging tools by holding the end of a broomstick, umbrella, or household hammer—it doesn’t really matter what implement you use—and swinging it as I would an ice tool. Concentrate on accurately controlling the arc of the swing directly over your shoulder, with your elbow up near your ear. Do enough on one side to get pumped, then the other side, and then repeat until you can only manage half the swinging time of the fi rst effort. Three times a week will be more than enough. 4. CARDIO In training for steep ice climbing, don’t forget one key component: hiking to the climb with a heavy pack. Even if you live in Manhattan, you can walk across the island and find some stairs for laps two or three times a week. Six miles and 2,000 feet with a pack will be about right. If you don’t live in Manhattan, you really have no excuse—so get going! Non-specific training is great, but it should be secondary to these exercises, and should be done in the off-season. I like to do CrossFit sessions and then make my training increasingly specific as ice season looms. In the end, no weight training will make you a decent climber, on ice or rock—you gotta climb. But having plenty of strength is always a good thing! TRAINING PLUS
针对性训练 由Will Gadd撰写 陡峭冰壁的攀爬不仅需要重复练习，更需要从底到顶一气呵成的动作连贯性。最理想的训练莫过于一遍又一遍地进行顶绳攀登。但除非你住在Ouray或Canmore这样的地方，而大多数的攀冰者都不得不另寻它法。但任何训练都应该尽可能地模拟真正的攀冰。去年，在我在Ouray进行24小时不间歇攀冰之前的非攀冰季里，我以攀岩训练为基础，并配合大量的蹲起训练和交替握镐拉引体训练。 1.蹲起练习 这一训练模仿了攀登陡峭冰壁时的基本动作。找一面石墙/运动场器材/有矮树杈的树/或其在头部高度有把手能使你钩挂冰镐的东西，面对它站好，将前脚趾抵住墙，抓握冰镐下蹲，双膝大约在臀部高度。现在，迅速站起，挥另一只镐过头（或空手模拟挥镐过头），锁定下方钩挂的冰镐几秒钟。（如图所示）然后再下蹲，重复上述动作。每只锁定胳膊做25个，通过这样的练习基本可以满足攀登陡峭冰壁的大多数动作要求。 如果每边重复25个动作太难，那就先从合计25个做起。如果觉得这个练习太简单，那有可能是你蹲得不够深或者站起的过程太快（忽略了锁定）。随着你变得越来越强，你可以背上负重来增加练习的难度。 2. 交替握镐拉引体训练 如果你找不到一个可以用冰镐做蹲起练习的地方，那就用“空身蹲起”（无负重做蹲起）和交替握镐拉引体练习来替代。一只手握住冰镐，挂在单杠上；另一只手直接抓单杠，这样你的双手大概上下交替约有12英尺距离，从静止悬垂开始，然后拉起，在每个拉起到顶的时候做曲臂锁定。在每一组蹲起和引体练习中，引体动作的总数应该是下蹲动作总数的四分之一。如果你拉不起这样的引体，那就双腿站在地上做，但是要做足一整套动作，包括锁定。这样总有一天，你就可以做真正的引体。 3. 挥镐练习 我的挥镐训练就是抓握扫帚、雨伞或锤子等物件——这与你用什么工具训练没有关系——挥动，就像挥动冰镐一样。专注于精确地控制挥镐弧度，打入的镐点在肩膀正上，挥镐时手肘贴近耳朵。左手/右手一直做挥镐的动作，直到胳膊酸胀，然后再换到另一只手，这样一直重复，直到你可以挥镐的次数渐少，数量仅为第一组挥镐数量的一半。一周三次这样的挥镐练习就可以了。 4. 有氧运动 在训练攀登垂直冰壁的过程中，不要忘记另一个关键环节：背着沉重的装备徒步到攀登之地。即便你住在曼哈顿，你也可以通过每周内徒步曼哈顿岛或爬2-3次楼梯来锻炼。负重徒步六英里或爬600米的高度基本就可以了。如果你不住在曼哈顿，那你就没任何理由了——直接锻炼就行了！ 泛化训练也很好，但是应该排在专项训练之后，在非攀冰季节作为辅助训练。我喜欢在非冰季的时候做全面体能训练，然后在冰季将近的时候开始做专项训练。最后，再做一些不用器械的力量训练，这将使你成为一名优秀的攀冰者，不论是攀岩还是攀冰——你还是要攀爬的。但是不管怎么说，有一把子力气总是好的。 额外训练
Placing pro: screw or be screwed By Mark Synnott For many ice climbers, placing pro is the crux of any route. Halfway up a vertical pillar, it’s all too easy to find yourself sketching just when you need composure the most. Fortunately, modern screws are so easy to use that there’s no excuse not to place plenty on vertical ice. Before you set off, visualize how you want the climb to look when you’re done. Ask yourself: where am I going to place my first screw, second, third, and so on? How many of each length screw will I need? Can I get any rock pro? Depending on the specific circumstances, space screw placements from every body length to every couple of body lengths. Bottom line: could you fall off without hitting the deck or a ledge? Once you have a game plan, rack up accordingly. “Screw rackers” on your harness, such as the Petzl Caritool or Black Diamond Ice Clipper, are essential for easy one-handed access to screws. It’s nice to have two rackers on your strong side (right side for righthanders): one for stubbies and one for your go-to 17cms. Put the 22cm screws for the anchor and V-threads in back. For a full rope length of steep ice, you could need as many as 16 screws, so you’ll also need a racker on your weak side to distribute the load. Grab screws from the weak side whenever you have easy placements. It’s normal to lead up a few body lengths before your first screw. When you’re ready:
PROTECTION PLUS
SCREW SHARPENING Protect your screws’ sharp, deliCATe teeth and threads by using plastic screw caps and carrying screws to climbs in a sturdy bag. Sharpen bent or worn teeth on screws with a small file, carefully mimicking the shape of teeth on new screws. For professional sharpening, try Griz Guides (grizguides.com): $8 apiece, plus shipping. 保护点放置：冰锥和打冰锥 由Mark Synnott撰写 对于很多攀冰者来说，放置保护点是整个攀登过程中的难点。当你正在垂直冰柱的半路时，你会发现自己犹豫紧张得要命，而此时你最需要的是沉着和镇定。幸运的是，现代的冰锥都很易于操作，使你没有理由不多放置几根。 出发之前，试想象你如何完成这段攀登。问问自己，打算在哪里拧下第一根冰锥、第二根、第三根和其他的冰锥？每种长度的冰锥都各需要几根？需不需要带任何攀岩的保护（比如塞子）？根据不同的环境条件，冰锥之间放置的距离是一个身长或者是两个身长。不论是那种，底线都是：在你冲坠的时候，保证不摔倒平台或任何凸起上。 一旦你计划好了，就可以按照这个准备装备了。安全带上装好“冰锥架”，比如Petzl的Caritool或Black Diamond的Clipper，这些工具架都可以让你通过单手操作就能取得冰锥。最好是在你得劲的一侧装2个工具架（比如是右撇子，就在右边装2个）：一个是用来放短冰锥，另一个用来放长冰锥（如17cm的）。把做保护站和冰洞的22cm冰锥放在身后。对一面整根绳长（50-60米）高度的陡峭冰壁来说，你至少需要16根冰锥，因此你还需要在另一侧也装上工具架，以分散重量。可以在打镐舒服容易的地方拿取这一侧的冰锥。第一根冰锥拧入的位置超过几个身长是很常见的事情。 当你准备好： 1. 稳固地打一镐，然后把手臂打直。如果你是右撇子，那就试着选择一个好的左手上方打镐位置。 2. 双脚站稳，位置在双肩的正下方。如果可以，为与上方持镐那只手相反的脚的，找一个可以站脚的平台（比如左手上方持镐，那就为右脚找个平的脚点）——这样会使你的站姿更放松一点。在冰壁上找个地方，可以迅速用冰爪前齿踢出一个小凹槽。抓住任何机会，减少胳膊受力。完全用脚站稳后，只用需要的最小的力气抓握冰镐保持平衡，不需要使更多的劲儿。 3. 将另一只镐打在一旁，但也不要太远，要可以比较容易得抓到用来休息。 4. 拧冰锥的最好位置是低不过腰，高不过胸，向外则不要超过30cm。这个范围是拧冰锥入冰时最容易用力的范围。如果拧锥的位置太高了就会失去平衡，而且冰锥很难拧入。 5. 当你开始开始拧冰锥的时候，手握冰锥摇把一头，向冰壁使劲压冰锥。在冰壁上，拧冰锥的窍门就是在拧入的时候将冰锥尖略向上翘起。如果你的冰锥垂直于冰壁拧入，冰锥摇把的那头就会在冰锥入冰的同时微微向下，这样就非常完美了。 6. 一旦冰锥螺纹开始咬合，就可以开始转动摇把了。如果冰壁不平整，阻碍了摇把转动，你就可以用放在一旁的冰镐清理冰面。最后，冰锥上用于挂快挂的挂片应该与冰面贴平。 7. 如果拉着高处冰镐的那只胳膊酸胀了，就抓握另一只镐，松开酸胀的手。舒展手指，甩甩手臂，就好像在攀岩的时候常做的那样。 8. 冰锥全部拧入后，在上面挂一个快挂，快挂下方的锁门方向要与你位置相反。拉起绳子，用大拇指推动快挂扁带上的固定套，利用绳子的重量将绳子扣入快挂。这是戴手套情况下将绳子扣入快挂的最简单方法。 在你首次前锋陡峭的冰壁之前，或者是在每个冰季开始的时候，要先用顶绳模拟先锋，将线路上所有冰锥放置好。这样做将能帮助你做好准备，找到最放松的姿势，从而确保你在真正先锋攀登的时候有足够的力量完成线路。 额外保护技巧：
打磨冰锥 用塑料冰锥帽保护你冰锥锋利脆弱的锥齿，携带去攀登的时候要放在结实的袋子里。用小锉刀打磨弯曲或磨损的锥齿。打磨时，要小心翼翼地，依照新冰锥前齿的形状打磨。更专业的打磨，可以找Griz Guides(grizguides.com)，8美元一只，运费另算。 Ice FAQ Q. I like leashless climbing because it makes placing gear and shaking out so much easier. But I get too pumped. Do you recommend leashes for really steep ice? A. At the beginning of the ice season, when fitness and confidence are not quite there, climbing with leashes may be safer. Otherwise, sans dragonnes is the way to go. After placing a tool, relax your grip and allow your hand to “cradle” the handle. Wiggle your fingers a little before making the next move. —Jack Roberts A. To understand how little you really need to grip, have someone pull hard on the head of the tool while you grab onto the handle. Gradually loosen your grip as your friend pulls. You'll soon realize that you hardly need to hold the tool for it to stay in your hand. —Caroline George Q. If I get gripped on a steep column, should I downclimb to the last piece, or is there a way to protect myself while I get in a screw? A. First thing to do is look for a stem or other rest, and see if you can get a screw in where you are. There are many other ways to get weight off your arms, but they’re all acts of desperation. Ratchet back your climbing goals until you truly posses adequate fitness and technique—and a good lead head—to tackle steep columns. —Steve House A. Try rigging a fifi hook on a body-weight-bearing bungee cord that is about eight inches shorter than your maximum reach and is tied into your harness. Practice hooking into tools with this system close to the ground—there is a change of angle in the pull when you weight your harness. —Barry Blanchard A. I have seen all sorts of gimmicks for this situation. Clip a draw to one of your tools and clip in the rope? Maybe, but kinda sketchy in my opinion. Use an ice hook for temporary pro? Yikes! If it takes you longer than a minute to get a screw in, keep practicing. —Clint Cook Q. My feet often sketch out on vertical columns, especially if the ice is chandeliered. Is something wrong with my crampons? A. Doubtful that it is the tools—rather the carpenter. Don’t lever up on your front points as you reach. Play with turning one of your knees outward on ice near the ground, so you can learn to rest that foot on the inner second point. —Barry Blanchard A. Often, when terrain gets steep, climbers won't hang their ass out far enough to produce a good motion for placing crampons. Get your butt back farther to kick, and keep your heel cocked down. —Clint Cook A. You might be lifting your heels, and it’s also possible that you have too little front point, due to your particular boot/crampon combo. Shorter front points are preferred for classic (read: vertical or less) mixed climbing, because the lever arm is shorter. Longer front points make it easier to maintain positive contact with vertical ice. —Steve House A. Planting your crampon points securely on vertical, chandeliered ice requires flexibility in the ankles so that you can make use of all those crampon points. Frequently change your foot placement, and don't be afraid to experiment with foot positions like toe or heel hooks. It's all about contact! —Jack RobertsQ. I've always wondered what would happen if I dropped a tool or broke a pick while leading steep ice. Do you carry a third tool for this reason? A. Carrying a third tool seems sketchy to me. If I were to take a tumbling leader fall, I wouldn’t want that extra dagger strapped to my waist. —Steve House A. If I'm on a very long route where I know there is going to be hard black ice, I take an extra pick. Yet, I have never broken a pick in my life, not even torquing it in a crack. The only time I dropped a tool was rapping off Ames Ice Hose, and that's how I met my husband, so it turned out to be a good thing. On longer routes, I will use bungee cords to attach the tools to myself, to make sure I won't lose one. —Caroline George Q. Do picks come from the factory ready to go for steep ice these days? Or should I modify them somehow? A. Some manufacturers’ picks still come with larger than necessary surface area along the top edge of the pick. If you remove some of this with a file, creating a sharper edge on top, the pick will penetrate the ice better, feel stickier, and be easier to remove. —Jack Roberts Q. I have friends who tell me I should always use locking carabiners on both ends of quickdraws clipped to ice screws, because the screw side might open against the hanger and the rope side is susceptible to vibration. Is this bogus? A. Only do this if you really hate your follower. If you are conscious of direction of movement, gate direction, and rope orientation, those concerns are easily mitigated. I rig my draws with biners facing the same direction, and find it helps to clip everything correctly. —Clint Cook A. Bogus! Use wiregate carabiners when ice climbing. They are free from the "flutter factor" associated with spring-gate biners, and they won't freeze up. When placing a screw, be certain the ice around the hanger has been cleared sufficiently so the carabiner gate is not accidentally wedged open when it’s clipped into the hanger. —Jack Roberts Q. In the old days, it seemed like everyone led with double ropes out of fear of chopping a rope. Now it seems like lots of good climbers lead with single ropes. Is that safe? A. I think a big reason for this change is that V-threads have made it easier to do multiple rappels. Earlier, with fewer anchor options, minimizing the number of raps was key. Also, older ropes didn't have very good dry coatings, and not all that long ago a 10.5mm was a skinny single. With a wet, iced-up 10.5mm, you couldn’t rappel or belay. Skinny double ropes were easier to handle if they did get iced up. —Steve House A. I lead on a single rope and pull a tag line for rappels. There is less rope drag, it's simpler to clip just one rope, and if you do swing into it, there is less chance of the thicker rope getting damaged. To avoid chopping the cord, make sure you have awareness of where it is at all times. If you do swing into it or step on it, take a thorough look at the rope, and if you can't see any damage, you are good to go! —Caroline George Q. What do you think of “rollies” for training? You know, using a broomstick to roll up a weight attached to a cord? A. Any training is better than no training, but specificity rules. Rollies are good for getting good at rollies, but not for the specific musculature of swinging an ice tool. —Will Gadd 攀冰常见问题 问题：我喜欢无腕带攀冰，因为这样攀冰更方便放置装备和甩手。但是我的胳膊非常酸胀。你建议在攀登陡峭冰壁的时候用腕带吗？ 回答：冰季伊始，当体力和自信都还不够的时候，用腕带攀登可能会更安全。除此之外，可以进行无腕带攀登。打入冰镐后，放松你的抓握手，让你的手只是轻扶在冰镐把上。再次开始攀爬之前，要活动一下手指。——Jack Roberts 回答：为了让你清楚只需要很小的力气就能抓握冰镐，你可以在拉冰镐把手的时候让你的朋友使劲拉冰镐头。在你朋友拉冰镐头的时候，你渐渐放松抓握力量。这时，你就会忽然意识到，你根本不需要使劲抓握冰镐，因为它已经就在你的手里了。——Caroline George 问题：如果我在陡峭冰柱上抓握不住了，我是否应该倒攀到最后一个挂片，或者在我拧入冰锥的时候是否有可以自我保护的方法呢？ 回答：这时候，首先要做的是找到一个可以休息的地方，然后看看是否能在这里拧锥。有很多种可以减少胳膊受力的方法，但以上这些都是不得已的行为。逐步降低你的目标，直到你真的拥有足够的可以攀登陡峭冰柱的体力、技术和先锋头脑。——Steve House 回答：试着在能够承受身体重量的弹力绳上装个Fifi钩。弹力绳要比你手能够到的最长距离短8英寸（约20厘米），并把它与安全带连接。在近地面的高度练习使用与这一系统连接的冰镐——当你的安全带受力的时候，冰镐拉冰的角度会有所改变。——Barry Blanchard 回答：这种情况下的各种花招我都见过。将快挂扣入一只冰镐，然后再将绳子扣入快挂的。可能吧，但我一直比较怀疑这种做法。用冰镐做临时保护？妈呀！如果这样能保护你超过一分钟，让你拧入冰锥，那你就练习吧。——Clint Cook 问题：在攀登垂直冰柱的时候，我的脚经常滑出来，尤其是攀登那种悬柱冰壁的时候。是不是我的冰爪有什么问题呢？ 回答：与其说是冰爪的问题，还不如说是人的问题。在你向上挥镐的时候，不要翘起你的冰爪前齿。在冰壁上近地面的高度练习将膝盖向外翻转，这样就可以学会利用内侧的第二前齿来稳定那只脚了。——Barry Blanchard 回答：很多时候，当地形开始变得陡峭时，攀冰者在踢爪入冰时，向外撅屁股撅得不够。向外再多撅点屁股踢冰，再保持你的脚跟向下。——Clint Cook 回答：你可能是抬起了脚跟，或者可能是由于你登山鞋和冰爪的组合问题，导致冰爪前齿太短。短前齿适用在典型的冰岩混合攀登上，因为杠杆臂更短。杠杆臂长的前齿使得正面接触垂直冰面变得更容易。——Steve House 回答：要把冰爪齿稳固地踢入垂直的悬柱冰壁需要脚踝有很好的柔韧性，这样就可以利用所有的冰爪齿。可以频繁地换脚，不要害怕尝试使用脚尖或脚跟钩挂。这些都是接触！——Jack Roberts 问题：我经常想，如果在先锋陡峭冰壁的时候掉镐了或鹤嘴坏了，那会怎样。我需不需要因此而多带一只镐上去？ 回答：再多带一只镐对我来说不太靠谱。如果我发生了翻滚式的先锋冲坠，我可不想在自己的腰上多装一把利刃。——Steve House 回答：如果我攀登的是一段长距离的冰壁，而且我也知道可能会有比较难搞的冰，我可能就会多带一只镐。但是，我这辈子还没有用坏过一只镐，甚至都没有扭出过裂缝。只有一次我在结组攀登Ames Ice Hose的时候，把镐掉了，我就这样遇到了我的丈夫，所以这件事儿就变成了一件好事儿。如果攀登的冰壁不长的话，我会用弹力绳把冰镐系在自己的身上，这样可以保证我不会掉镐。——Caroline George 问题：现如今出厂的冰镐鹤嘴是不是可以直接用来攀爬陡峭冰壁？还是我应该或多或少地需要加工一下？ 回答：一些生产商出产的鹤嘴上刃依然比实际需要的上刃面积要大。如果你用锉刀打磨去掉部分，就可以在上缘磨出利刃，这样鹤嘴就可以更好地入冰，粘合性更好，而且也更方便取出——Jack Roberts。 问题：有朋友告诉我，我应该用两头都是丝扣锁的快挂扣入冰锥，因为快挂与冰锥挂片连接的那端容易开，而与绳子连接的那端也会受到振动的影响。这不是真的吧？ 回答：如果你和你的跟攀者有仇，那就这么干吧。如果你都有意识的注意你的攀登方向、锁门方向、还有绳子走向，这些问题就可以比较容易地避免了。我在装配快挂的时候，将连接在便带两端的散锁设为同一方向，发现这样能有效提高方向的正确性。——Clint Cook 回答：不是真的！攀冰的时候要用丝门锁。它们没有弹簧锁门快挂的那种“振颤元素”，而且也不会被冻住。当放置冰锥的时候，要确认冰锥挂片周围的冰已经完全清理干净，这样快挂锁门就不会在扣入挂片后被意外被挤开了。——Jack Roberts 问题：以前，出于对断绳的恐惧，似乎大家都使用双绳进行先锋攀登。而现在，似乎很多优秀的攀登着都使用单绳进行先锋攀登。这样做安全嘛？ 回答：我觉得这一改变的主要原因是冰洞的使用，它使得多段绳距攀登的下降变得简单了。早期，在保护站的选择贫乏的时候，减少下降次数才是关键。而且，以前绳子的绳皮都没有经过很好的防水处理，在不久之前10.5mm的绳子已经算是比较细的单绳了，而湿透了，还结了上冰的10.5mm的绳子，是无论如何也不能进行保护和用来下降的。而更细的双绳在结冰之后还能比较容易地操作。——Steve House 回答：我用单绳进行先锋，并用拉收尾绳（tag line）的方式进行下降。这样就免去了很多绳索的拖拽，只将一根绳子扣入快挂也更加容易，而且如果当你发生摆荡，粗绳子比起细绳子更不容易损坏。为了避免破坏绳芯，你要时刻注意绳子在哪。一旦你发生了摆荡或者踩到绳子上，一定要彻头彻尾地对绳子进行检查，如果没有看到任何损坏，你就可以继续前进！——Caroline George 问题：你是怎么看待“卷轴”训练的？如你所知，用扫帚做轴，将系有重物的绳子绑在扫帚上，通过卷动扫帚提拉重物？ 回答：任何训练都比没有训练要强，但是要有特殊性原则的概念。卷轴训练可以很好的练习卷曲动作，但是对挥冰镐并没有什么特殊性帮助——Will Gadd |
dol528phin 发表于 2015-2-5 19:52 吹毛求疵一下 ，芽总，发现一个疑似错别字。红字是不是每一爪？ 对于每一镐，每已爪而言，最好的入点就是冰壁上的凹点或冰洞。任何向内凹陷的地方都是挥镐和踢爪的好地方；而任何向外凸出的地方都容易断裂和破碎。在常有人攀爬的线路上都会有很多洞洞，这样你基本不需要挥镐；要练习在其他攀冰者打出的凹槽处钩挂冰镐。如果线路还没有人爬过，那就需要多费一些气力了。 攀登垂直冰壁就是在往复地重复做三个基本动作：下蹲、站起、挥镐。 |
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