Everest 2006: A message from the deathzone<br />作者:Tina Sjogren<br />译者:华仔<br />原文地址https://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=7933<br />译者尽可能如实的翻译原文，本文仅供参考。如需转载，请全文转载并注明原出处<br /> <br />Tina Sjogren<br /> <br />Tom <br /> <br />Babu Shirri SHERPA<br /> <br />Their base camp tent was purchased on K-Mart. <br /><br /><br /><br />作者介绍:Tina Sjogren (born in the Czech rep) is one of the founders of ExplorersWeb. She climbed Everest in 1996 as a member of Henry Todd's outfit, and the next three years in small independent Expeditions with her husband Tom (Sweden). The couple summited in 1999 after managing much of the infrastructure on Everest south side with only a team of 5 Sherpas. The expedition became famous when the couple built a wireless network high up on the mountain, and the expedition Sirdar, Babu Shirri Sherpa, camped out on the summit for 20 hours without oxygen, a dream he had long wished to try. Babu perished 2 years later in a crevasse on Everest south side camp 2. Tom and Tina later skied to both the earth's Poles (unsupported), and live in New York today. <br /><br /> Tina Sjogren (出身于捷克)是 ExplorersWeb 的创办人之一。她在1996年做为Henry Todd的队员攀登了珠峰,三年后她和丈夫汤姆 (瑞典)组成了一个小型的独立远征队再次攀登珠峰.1999年这对夫妇和五个夏尔巴从南坡登顶.当时这个远征队因为队长Babu Shirri夏尔巴无氧在峰顶露营20小时,和夫妇俩在高耸入云的山上建起无线网络而名声大噪.Babu两年后在南坡C2营地坠入裂缝身亡.夫妇俩最颠峰造极的是南北极探险(无后援),现在生活在纽约.<br /><br /><br />Let me tell you what it feels like on 8500 meters, deep in the Death Zone. <br /><br />It depends...on 3 things: <br /><br />1. The weather <br />2. How long you have been up there <br />3. And if you use (good) oxygen <br /><br />If the weather is bad, you are out of oxygen (or use a bad system), and you are returning from a summit - chances are you feel like shit. Your brain is a distant blur, your legs hardly move, and you just want to sit down and sleep. <br /><br />But if the weather is nice, and you have plenty of gas - it's an entirely different ball game. In good conditions, high above 8000 meters, even after a summit, you frolic in the snow, you have tea in the sun, you shoot pictures and video, you chat with fellow climbers - and maybe even call your mom. <br /><br />让我来告诉你在8500M高的死亡地带,让我来告诉你它感觉起来像什么<br /><br />它要依据三个情况:<br />1.天气<br />2.你在那里已爬了多久<br />3.而且你会熟练的使用氧气<br /> 如果天气糟糕,你的氧气用尽(或使用一个差劲的氧气系统),而且你正在从峰顶返回途中---你的运气真是坏到不能想象.你的意识模糊,几乎迈不动腿,你只想坐下睡一会.<br /> 但是如果天气很好,而你又有足够的氧气---那又是完全不同的局面了.在好的情况下,在8000M以上的地方,恰恰你登顶后,你在雪中嬉闹,你在明媚的阳光下饮茶,你拍摄照片和DV,你和攀登的伙伴们闲聊---而且也许甚至给给你妈妈打个电话.<br /><br />On a mountain where all bets are off <br /><br />I am not a strong climber. I seem to lack the altitude gene some of my lucky mates such as Messner and Viesturs enjoy. And I'm a woman. I have not climbed many himalayan peaks, but I know Everest well. Ever since it first introduced itself to me, in the fateful year of 1996, Everest has been my special mountain. I returned there for 4 years, determined to show its soul to the world, through the eyes of uncensored, real adventure. <br /><br />I have seen people fall horrible falls, screaming in the thin air. I have met people telling me they are ok, while they were in fact dying, without even being aware. <br /><br />I have seen bad oxygen being sold to clueless climbers, and weather reports altered to fool fellow mates. I have seen false heroes hit world headlines and true heroes disappear. I have seen the cheaters, and the lies. I have listened to the Base Camp chatter, and watched the resigned look in some of my fellow climbers' eyes. For 4 years, I watched a battle between good and bad play out on a mountain where all bets are off. <br /><br /><br />在山上没有侥幸<br /><br /> 我不是一个强悍的登山者.我看起来似乎缺乏高海拔基因,而不象我幸运的伙伴维斯勒和维斯托尔那么适应.我是一个女子,我没有攀登许多喜玛拉雅的峰巅,但我熟知珠峰.从不吉的1996年我初识她的容颜,她就成了我心目中特别的山峰.四年后,我重返珠峰,决心用我真实的冒险经历和我的双眼无保留的将她的灵魂展示给世界.<br /> 我已看到了恐怖的滑坠,听到了在空气稀薄地带的尖叫.我遇到人们告诉我他们OK,事实上他们没有意识到他们已濒临死亡.<br /> 我看到坏了的氧气系统被卖给愚笨的登山者,还有改了的天气报告去愚弄队友,我看到虚伪的登山英雄被大标题满世界宣传,而真正的英雄消失不见.我已见到骗子听到谎言.我已听到BC那里的废话,从我的攀登伙伴们的眼睛里看到认命的神情.四年了,在这没有侥幸的山上.我已看到善与恶的战争已经结束.<br /><br /><br />The truth about us <br /><br />Everest is not about the summit. Everest is just a rock. The top is the hat but the climb is the soul. A miniature of the world with no strings attached, on Everest I have seen the truth about us humans, stripped down to our barest bones. <br /><br />Ever since it became known that 40 climbers stepped over a dying mate to reach the summit last week (and it's not the first time), I have seen some of my fellow climbers defending the act. Many of them, I knew, only guarding their own agendas. I watched the rest of the world become confused - is it OK to bury people alive - as long as it's on Mount Everest? <br /><br />关于我们的事实<br /><br /> 珠峰不是世界的最高点.珠峰只是块石头.她的顶只不过是一顶帽子而攀登才是灵魂所在.<br />她是一个没有任何付加条件的世界的缩影,在珠峰上,我看到了真正的赤裸人性,它的所有外衣被扒了个精光.<br /> 从上周40多个登山者经过将死的攀登伙伴没有停下登顶的脚步的消息爆光以来(这不是第一次了),我已看到我的很多登山的伙伴们在为自已的行为辩解.他们中的许多人,我知道,仅仅只是在保护他们内心的挣扎.我现在看这个世界很困惑--埋葬活鲜的生命是正确的--只要是在珠穆朗玛峰?<br /><br />The world from a distance <br /><br />Jochen Hemmleb, perhaps the foremost Everest historian today, wrote in an email today: <br /><br />"For decades Everest was seen as the epitome of human chAllenge. In recent years, however, its role has changed. From a testing place it has been transformed into a stage on which human vanities and other habits are put on display. As Everest historian Walt Unsworth once wrote, 'Everest can bring out the best and worst in people.'" <br /><br />"Mountaineering can act as an escape from society. It can also serve as means to view society from a distance. Seen in this context and keeping in mind the mountain's special role, the current EVENTs on Everest are in great part a reflection of what's going on elsewhere in society, and the questions about ethics should not be confined to Everest or climbing circles." <br /><br />"The events on Everest raise some hard questions about how we, as society, regard and define sUCCess. Nowadays Everest history has come round full circle in so far as the summit seems once more to be the only goal - and few care about how it was achieved. Am I the only one who thinks that this speaks volumes, that the attitude behind this spreads beyond the climbing world to other parts of society and culture?" asks Jochen. <br /><br />从远处看这个世界<br /><br /> Jochen Hemmleb,可能是第一流的珠峰历史学家今天在一封电邮中写道:<br /> "几十年来,攀登珠峰被看做人类挑战极限的典范.在近些年,不管怎样,它的角色已发生改变,从一个试验场变成了人类展示自已的虚荣心和其它一些习性的舞台.就象珠峰历史学家 WaltUnsworth 写到:珠峰能够展示出人性的最好和最坏"<br /> "攀登使人们逃避社会,他还能使人们从远处观察这个社会.在这个背景下看当前的珠峰事件和牢记山的特殊规则,它很大程度上只不过是这个社会其它地方正在发生的一个映象,对于珠峰和登山这个圈子来说那里不应该是另外一个道德圈."<br /><br /> "珠峰事件给我们和社会提出了一个难题,我们应该怎样看待和定义怎样才是成功.珠峰的历史转了一圈又回到了最早攀登的时候,只要登顶再一次似乎是唯一目标--而很少关注这个目标是如何达成的.如果这种态度漫延到登山圈子以外的其它社会领域会是怎样呢?我想我不是唯一的思考这个有意义问题的人吧?"Jochen如是问.<br /><br />Choose our role models <br /><br />The fact is, that the world celebrates strength unconditionally today. The next step, is to sacrifice the weak. If a climber is part of a "far less professional outfit" and "had no oxygen, and no proper gloves," he deserves to die, we decide. <br /><br />The Spirit of Adventure is anything but these days. Lawsuits are filed by cheaters trying to bully their way to acceptance of false claims. Explorers with the biggest PR staff get the fame. Commerce hides bodies and damage control becomes an all important task. And it works, too. <br /><br />But the question is if the problem is isolated to the community of Adventurers - or if it's a dormant cancer lying within us all. We need to talk about that, a lot, and choose our role models with better care. <br /><br />This was the message Everest wanted to leave with us in 2006, ten years after Into thin air. When you check the timing between the death and miracle of David and Lincoln, it hits you that the MotherGoddess could have spoken no louder. It's not a cute message folks. It's a warning. <br /><br /><br />选择我们行为的榜样<br /><br /> 事实是,今天这个世界无条件推崇强者.下一步,牺牲弱者.如果一个攀登者是属于"用的是不专业的装备"和"没有氧气,没有适当的手套"他可以死了,我们给他下了结论.<br /><br /> 这些天绝对没有体现冒险的精神,那些说谎者不停的申诉,甚至用威胁的手法使大家接受那些虚伪的辩解.拥有很大公共关系支持的探险者得到了声誉.商业目的隐藏在背后的同时，如何把损失减少到最小成了首要的任务。事实也就是这个样子.<br /><br /> 但是问题是如果这个问题只是限于冒险团体--或者如果它是静静藏在我们体内的一个毒瘤.我们需要去谈论它,很多次,更加仔细小心的选好我们行为的榜样.<br /><br /> 十年后我们进入空气稀薄地带,看看珠峰2006年留给我们的教训.当你在戴维的死亡和林肯生还奇迹两者当中的时机进行比较时,你的心在悸动.而珠穆朗玛峰无言的看着我们这些攀登者.它不是一个小小的教训,那是一个警告! |
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