做自己的主人

中国户外资料网 作者：Liufeng51【授权发表】
From：www.nicros.com　writer：Eric J.Hörst.　
编译：Liufeng51

接近极限的攀爬常常令人充满压力。几近绝望的移动，冒坠落的风险，下一步的不确定性将滋生的消极想法和身体的压力像滚雪球一样迅速膨胀。如果不对它进行控制，这种不断升级的不安将使你很快力竭并脱落。然而，大部分的攀岩者都有这样的经验，当你水平提高时，这种情形则会变少，不断增长的信心和体验将使你对这种天性的反应程度减轻，并爬得更远。有时候，高手在攀爬有挑战性的线路时也会感到紧张，但他们能够在攀登中能够调整情绪和压力，成为自己的主人，不使压力影响发挥。
同样的，你的目标也需要提高到这种水平，控制不断增长的不安情绪和压力，以使你通过休息能快速地从这种状况中解脱出来，回到攀爬焦点上。以下提供两种使你重新回到关注困难线路的方法：

A．集中精力控制呼吸
深入而平稳的呼吸是缓解紧张情绪的最好办法。不用惊讶，困难点是使你产生呼吸不畅、紧张的主要原因，如果你赞同（或经常从中受益）在单个的难点处需要控制好呼吸而完成它，则在一系列的困难点移动中控制好呼吸（或把紊乱呼吸调整好）是同样道理，明白这点，你便可以在有压力的线路中有意识地控制呼吸。爬慢些，在先锋线路的难点处使用腹部深沉地呼吸，并努力保持平稳畅通以使你突破最难关。控制呼吸，缓解紧张，这是你爬得更远的不二法门。
当你开始攀爬一条线路时，试着预先确定所有的休息位置和需要快速通过的地方，这种休息位置将使你获得喘息的时机。每到达一个这样的休息点，闭上眼睛一段时间，专注于想象每一次慢呼吸的空气正进入你的肺部，当你呼气的时候，想象压力正从体内排除，身体恢复到全新的面貌，整个的过程也许仅需要15-30秒，但对于恢复到最佳攀爬状态是非常有用的。在每一个休息点使之成为习惯，你可以使用“A. N.S.W.E.R.”这种方法在一个好的休息点处休息一两分钟来得到恢复。

A. N.S.W.E.R.法六大要点（后面有附文，这里仅翻译其要点）：
1.意识到焦虑、压力和负面的情绪.调节你的“内心世界”是达到最佳表现状态的第一步，使用下面的步骤诊断你所存在的问题。
2.正常呼吸.紊乱的呼吸增加压力，即使在压力状态下也要努力去平稳呼吸。
3.关注你的紧张肌肉.关注你的紧张肌肉几秒钟，想象压力如空气从气球中被排除一样释放它们。
4.波浪式放松.进行缓慢而深沉的呼吸，去体验那种波浪从头冲到脚的放松感觉。
5.从刚刚紧张的攀爬中解脱出来，回到当下状态.生动地想象并确信完美的结果，然后，把你的思绪回到当下，让这种完美结果自行演绎。
6.调整好姿势，给自己一个微笑.相信自己，完全投入，无论结果如何都爬得开心。

B. 以目标为导向，保持积极心态：
不确定和可怕的想法将终结你on-sight或红点线路，在消极思想的拖累下，你不可能爬得好。在攀爬线路时，每一个暂停点你都需要抓住机会调整情绪，它是正常的压力还是天性使然？迅速评估产生的恐惧，判断它们是正常的恐惧还是幻觉导致你坠落。在运动攀中，大部分的恐惧都是欺骗性的，如果这是你真正的问题，要把它写下来，把它看成幻觉，并把注意力集中在目标上----继续向上爬线路。当然，只有蠢人才忽视传统或快速攀登中所蕴含的真正恐惧（危险）。
成语：“全神贯注”就是这个意思。不要怀疑自己的能力，总是想着坠落，而是将你的思绪集中在下一个攀爬点上。在预定的时间完成一段线路，集中精力去攀到下一个休息处。如果你的目标仅仅是攀爬六英尺（或其它高度）到达下一个休息点，那么，导致紧张压力的重要因素便会消除，思想负担也会减轻。

附原文：Becoming a master of your domain

Climbing near your limit can be stressful. Desperate moves, risk of falling, and the uncertainty of what’s next can foster unproductive thoughts and physical tension that snowballs at a rapid rate. Left unchecked, such rising tension will cause you to pump out and fall. While every climber has this experience, it should become less frequent as you gain in ability. Increasing confidence and experience will go a long way to mitigate this natural fight-or-flight response. Still, even elite climbers occasionally experience tension when attempting severe routes. However, they are masters at modulating their emotions and tension on the fly, so that they never grow to a level that hampers performance.

Similarly, your goal should be to develop such awareness and control over rising tension and emotions. You can then use rest stances and clipping positions as an opportunity to release the tension and return to center. Here are two strategies for regaining control in the midst of a difficult route

Focus on Breath Control
Deep, steady breathing is the number one antidote to tension. Not surprisingly, then, the common tendency to hold your breath on a difficulty sequence is a prime cause of tension. While it’s okay (and often beneficial) to hold your breath for a single challenging move that requires you to bear down hard, it is common to continue to hold your breath, or breathe unevenly, throughout a series of hard moves. By being aware of this tendency, however, you can take conscious control of your breathing during stressful times on a route. Strive for slow, deep belly breaths during the moves leading up to a crux, and try to regain steady breathing as you move out of the most difficult moves. This strategy alone will go a long way toward controlling tension as you climb.

Before you start up a route, try to predetermine the location of all rest stances and clipping positions. These spots should offer you the opportunity to take a minute to steady your breathing. Upon reaching one of these spots, close your eyes for a moment and turn your thoughts inward to feel air filling your lungs with each slow breath. As you exhale, visualize the tension exiting your body and feel a renewed sense of being centered. This entire process might only take fifteen to thirty seconds, but it’s invaluable for regaining an optimal state for attacking the next section of the climb. Make it a habit to steady your breathing at every rest; you might even consider using the ANSWER Sequence at good rest positions that allow you a minute or two to hang out.

Keep Your Thoughts Productive and Goal-Oriented

Doubtful, fearful thinking is an on-sight or redpoint terminator. You simply can’t climb well with the weight of these negative thoughts in tow. Once again, you need to seize every stopping point on a route as an opportunity to tune into your thinking. Is it productive or unproductive in nature? Quickly evaluate any fears to determine if they are legitimate or just phantom fears trying to scare you off the route. In sport climbing, most fears are fraudulent, and if this is indeed the case you must write them off as illusions and then redirect your attention onto your goal—sending the route! Of course, only a fool would ignore real fears (dangers) inherent to trad or highball climbing.
The popular sports metaphor “keep your eye on the ball” is appropriate here. Resist the tendency to doubt your abilities or ponder the fall potential, and simply narrow your focus onto the next section of climb. Attack a route one chunk at a time, and concentrate only on the moves leading to the next rest. If your only goal is climbing the six feet (or whatever) to the next rest position, the burden is greatly reduced and a big cause of tension is erased.

The A.N.S.W.E.R. to Tension and Anxiety

Whether you are climbing a 5-move boulder problem or a 5-pitch route, unchecked tension and anxiety will hold you back like gravity on steriods. Physical tension kills motor skills and technique, while mental tension (anxiety and fear) quells creativity, focus, and the opportunity to achieve flow. And, if you are like most climbers, tension and anxiety are killing your performance far more than you recognize.
Following is the antidote to tension--my six-step ANSWER sequence for maintaining and regaining control before and during a climb. Initial use of the ANSWER sequence may require a quiet room and five minutes to perform effectively. With practice, however, you will be able to incorporate this sequence into your climbing almost as quickly and seamlessly as you chalk up.
I urge you to print out the ANSWER Sequence and begin using it throughout the day, both on and off the rock. Gradually, you will gain a new sense of calm, focused flow and breakthrough to a higher level of climbing performance!

Step 1: A wareness of anxiety, tension, or negative thoughts. Tuning into your "inner world" is the first step in creating a peak performance state. Use the following steps to counter the problem areas you diagnose.
Step 2: N ormalize breathing. Irregular breathing multiplies tension, so strive for smooth, even breathing when the pressure is on.
Step 3: S can for areas of muscular tension. To reduce tension, contract the affected muscles for a few seconds, then relax them and visualize the tension draining out like air from a balloon.
Step 4: W ave of relaxation. Take a slow, deep breath and feel the wave of relaxation wash from your head to your toes.  
Step 5: E rase thoughts of the past--engage the present moment . Vividly visualize the ideal outcome and believe in it, but then return your thoughts to the moment and let the outcome take care of itself.
Step 6: R eset posture and flash a smile. Trust your abilities, engage the route completely, and have fun regardless of the results.

做自己的主人！！

好东西

支持，我转载了一下哈