金冰镐大神来华攀登嘉子峰耗时21天终止步

本文消息来源于：户外探险outdoor  作者：高彬/Kaka   版权归属原作者

据悉，得过4把金冰镐的马括（Marko Prezelj）和2把金冰镐的85后库尔班两位攀登者将于今日返回成都，明日返回斯洛文尼亚，前后历经 21天的嘉子峰攀登活动正式宣告结束。

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图为两位climber出山时的合影。图/塔里

嘉子峰位处贡嘎山区，是蜀山之王贡嘎山的著名卫峰之一，海拔6549M。攀登难度极大，属于典型的冰雪岩混合型山峰。曾有国内攀登者周鹏和严冬冬于2011年开辟西壁中央路线自由之舞登顶，此后该山峰再无登顶记录。马括与库尔班两位攀登者此次来华，对于完成一条新路线可是信誓旦旦，10月5日进山，一直持续到10月26日才因始终等待不来理想天气决定放弃攀登。28日下午，马括与库尔班以及登山队联络官一行前往了雅拉雪山大本营考察路线，据联络官表示，尽管此次攀登因为大雪和大风仅仅止步5100米，但两位攀登者不会放弃来华登山，并于明年将卷土重来。

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图为徒步者在捡拾垃圾。图/塔里

由于前往嘉子峰大本营的路线与贡嘎穿越路线部分重合，马括与库尔班亲眼目睹了贡嘎“千人逃难下撤”时的情景，并对徒步客遗留的大量甚至堵塞河道的废弃物垃圾表示不满，5号进山的途中两位攀登者一路在捡拾垃圾。马括向户外探险表示：中国户外存在很大问题，围观者对此表现出的冷漠令人心寒，如果我们想要彻底解决垃圾问题，首先应该制止它，其次才是去清理。

老外的环保意识就是强，非常值得学习。

记者在专业方面还是欠缺点，这段话问题不少：嘉子峰位处贡嘎山区，是蜀山之王贡嘎山的著名卫峰之一，海拔6549M。攀登难度极大，属于典型的冰雪岩混合型山峰。曾有国内攀登者周鹏和严冬冬于2011年开辟西壁中央路线自由之舞登顶，此后该山峰再无登顶记录。


严冬冬开辟的路线是第二次登顶，并非首登,见其自己的描述如下：
When we left at 9:47 a.m. on the 21st, the wind had grown stronger, blowing snow in our faces. As Zhou neared the top, the heavy cams and pitons on his rack were flying horizontally. We stepped onto the summit at 12:01 p.m. This was the second ascent of Jiazi (6,112m), the first being in 1982 by Americans Pat Callis, Dougal McCarty, and Richard Nolting, via the south ridge. On that same expedition Dave Stutzman and Jim Williams climbed the west face to north ridge, and in 2009 French guides Pierre Labbre and Rémi Sfilio climbed another route on the right side of the face to reach the south ridge. Our route, Liberal Dance (1,500m, M6 W13 55°), is the first west face route to reach the summit.


那么严冬冬之后有没有人再登顶呢，还真有，就在2017年，由Tomas Franchini带队的意大利队完成该地区一系列山峰的攀登和首登，其中关于嘉子峰的攀登见以下简报摘录：
Matteo and I then climbed Jiazi (6,540m) via a new route up the southeast ridge. We did this in one long day on October 15. The vertical interval of ascent was 1,600m, but the climbing distance around 3,000m. We named the route the White Line (sections up to 85°). Previous ascents had climbed the south ridge from the west (1982) and west face (2011).

中国的户外真是……管杀不管埋。管他洪水滔天，完全没想过可持续发展这个问题的。

五仁月饼 发表于 2018-10-31 16:45 中国的户外真是……管杀不管埋。管他洪水滔天，完全没想过可持续发展这个问题的。 ...

其实不光是这个问题没管好，外国人来中国登山也没管好

照理说外国人来中国登山是要事先申请后获得许可才行，但是现在这个渠道因为不顺畅， 所以大部分外国人都不申请了，拿着日本人中村保写的书，上面有照片、地图，非常详细，以旅游的名义来偷登， 我们这边也没人知道，直到他们回去写报告发到权威杂志上，最后大半个地球的人都知道了，咱们这边的管理部门还是不知道

就拿前面那个意大利团队来说，2017年10月来中国从1号一直登山到15号，爬了大约20座莫溪沟的山，好多未登峰


这个叫Tomas Franchini的意大利人是队长，我觉得他是很神的一个人，因为事后他说这次虽然登了这么多座山，但他最满意的还是在2017年10月7日的满月之夜独自一人solo首登爱德嘉峰西壁，他为该路线命名Moon's Power 技术难度 1,000m, WI4+ M4+, with thin ice.，我觉得这个定级明显偏低，因为另一位金冰镐大牛布鲁斯·诺曼在有搭档的情况下搞定东壁整整花了8天时间，给线路的难度评级是M6/WI5，并认为该线路比他得金冰镐的线路还难


Tomas Franchini在报告的末尾是这么写的：
The trip was a great success for us all, but my greatest satisfaction was the solo climb of the west face of Edgar, a difficult psychological ascent where there was just me, the moon, and the mountain—nothing else.
– Tomas Franchini, Italy

他的solo过程也很精彩，我这里也摘录一下：

During the descent I kept looking across at the west face of Edgar (this face was attempted in 2011 by Russians, who retreated after 400m, see AAJ 2012). I had a strange feeling, as if the mountain were calling me. I tried to dismiss it from my mind, as the team had already defined its plan. But the calling was strong. After dinner and heading to my sleeping bag, I instinctively decided to go for the unclimbed west face alone. Shortly after midnight, I headed out, illuminated by the full moon.


On the face, I climbed a series of difficult goulottes through steep terrain, with sections of thin and delicate ice. In the final part I had to overcome a section of mixed climbing to reach the ridge, which was laden with powder and snow mushrooms, like you see in Patagonia. Here, I had to use all my strength and concentration. A large snow structure broke away just in front of me and fell into the darkness. I had a bad fright! At 6.15 a.m., still in the dark, I reached the summit. I couldn’t believe what I had just done: the first ascent of the face and the third overall of the summit. I tried to maintain full concentration during the descent of the southwest ridge (the 2001 Korean route of the first ascent of Edgar) until I reached base camp, where I celebrated with my friends. Climbed on October 7, the Moon's Power is 1,000m, WI4+ M4+, with thin ice.

从逻辑上说得过4把金冰镐的马括（Marko Prezelj）应该是能力更强，不至于在这条沟耗时21天而颗粒无收，他一定有很多事情暂时还不能说，我们可以静待他的登山报告

为什么这么说呢，因为有史以来第一把金冰镐就是马括（Marko Prezelj）在1991年获得的
Piolet d’or 91
The first Piolet d’or was awarded to the Slovenian duo Marko Prezelj and Andrej Stremfelj for the first ascent of a 3000m route on the Southern pillar of Kangchenjunga
(Himalaya, 8 476 m).


到今天为止，他得了4把和福叔的搭档并列第一，所以不至于这么弱
而嘉子峰无论在难度上还是在危险度上是不能和爱德嘉峰相比的，爱德嘉峰曾埋过一个美国的大牛登山团队,无一幸存

喜欢这样的帖子

很有知识含量的帖子，久违的感觉，登坛这样的帖子越来越少了。