 此线路已于2022年9月完成，至今网上无视频、无攀登报告，美国阿攀俱乐部网站关于平出和也的报告仅限于他2021年尝试该线路时的窘境，即严重冻伤，差点没命，在医院救治了一个月，其间数度平出和也认为自己的职业生涯已结束。 关于此攀登，唯一可以用作简单报告是下面这段文字 An uncertain way up The pair had to wait for eight days for acceptable conditions. And yet, they weren’t even sure that a route existed. Fighting spindrift and a vertical section on Karun Koh. Photo: Kenro Nakajima “No matter how much I looked through binoculars in Base Camp, there was a section of the face that was hidden,” said Hiraide. “We considered quitting, but if there was no way to continue, I wanted to see it with my own eyes. So we went for it.” 平出说“不论我在大本营通过望远镜如何仔细观察，岩壁上总有一块是是完全被隐藏的。我们曾考虑过放弃，但是如果那儿真的没路，我还是想用自己的眼睛亲自确认一下，所以我们最终决定继续攀登” They made their way up “a wonderful route that miraculously connects a line of ice through rocky walls, all the way to the summit,” Nakajima wrote on social media. A meagre dinner during one of their bivouacs on the face. Photo: Kenro Nakajima The result of their perseverance was a 1,800m line up the very center of Karun Koh’s Northwest Face. Despite difficulties up to AI5, they climbed hard and fast and summited on September 21 at 2:51 pm. They had only two bivouacs on the wall on the way up and one on the way down. 他们以顽强的毅力争取来的成果是一条沿该山峰西北壁非常中心的位置垂直向上的1800米新线路。尽管攀登难度超过了AI5，他们还是竭尽全力地高速攀登并于2022年9月下午2:51分成功登顶。他们在这座巨大的岩壁上只露营了两次，一次是在上攀的途中，一次是在下撤的途中 Nakajima says that they carried rations for only one person, which they shared each day. No wonder the climbers gorged on food after they returned to Base Camp. “I am eating too much,” admitted Nakajima while he was still in Pakistan, “but I am remembering when I was starving during the climb.” 中岛说他们只带了一个人的 配给量，两个人必须每天分享有限的食物。显然在回到大本营后他们饿坏了。在巴基斯坦中岛说“虽然我现在吃得可能有点多，但我依然记得在攀登的时候我是如何的饥肠辘辘” Hiraide and Nakajima’s route up Karun Koh. Photo: Barrabes.com 关于此攀登让平出和也有极大可能获得第四根金冰镐的分析： One more Piolet d’Or for the collection? Hiraide and Nakajima’s was the second overall ascent of Karun Koh after an Austrian team climbed the Southwest Ridge 38 years ago. The Japanese made the first climb of the Northwest Face. 该线路是对该山峰在匈牙利队于38年前完攀西南脊之后的第二次完攀，这次日本队的成就是对该山峰西北壁的首登 Unfortunately, neither climber has yet shared a detailed report of the climb. Since they returned, they have been busy at their everyday jobs. Incredibly, neither is a full-time professional climber. We will have to wait before learning more about the terrain, the crux pitches, and their feelings as they climbed. For the time being, their image of the highly aesthetic line and the few available photos give an idea of the magnitude of the achievement. During a recent talk in Spain, Hiraide was introduced by veteran Carlos Soria, who neatly pointed out that, “In addition to his skills in choosing difficult routes, Hiraide places his projects on extremely beautiful mountains.” Some in the mountaineering media are already making the Japanese climbers favorites for yet another Piolet d’Or. Both already won the prestigious award for their climbs of Shispare and Rakaposhi. In addition, Hiraide has a third Piolet d’Or for his climb of 7,756m Kamet, with Kei Taniguchi. |
| 顶一下楼主，如果平出和也2023年能得奖，他的得奖次数将会进入第一梯队，向Marko Prezelj和Paul Ramsden看齐，据说这两位已经退休了，而平出和也生于1979年5月25日，今年43，正值盛年，如果好好努力，再得三次，也不是没有可能的 Kazuya Hiraide (2009, 2018, 2020) 平出和也 Kenro Nakajima (2018, 2020) 中岛 以下是维基列出的两次及以上获奖者大名单，黄种人里面只有平出和也和他的搭档中岛入围，而山野井泰史虽然获得去年金冰镐颁发的终身成就奖，可是实际的金冰镐奖他却一次没拿过，所以那个终身成就奖应该就是个鼓励奖 Multiple winners The following climbers have won more than one Piolet d'Or since its inception in 1992: 4 times. Marko Prezelj (1992, 2007, 2015, 2016), Paul Ramsden (2003, 2013, 2016, 2017). 3 times. Mick Fowler (2003, 2013, 2016), Kazuya Hiraide (2009, 2018, 2020). 2 times. Valery Babanov (2002, 2004), Aleš Česen (2015, 2019), Dmitry Golovchenko (2013, 2017), Zdenek Hák (2018, 2020), Marek Holecek (2018, 2020), Kenro Nakajima (2018, 2020), Sergey Nilov (2013, 2017), Mark Richey (2012, 2020), Ueli Steck (2009, 2014), Luka Stražar (2012, 2019), Steve Swenson (2012, 2020). |
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