| <P class=MsoPlainText style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.57"><FONT face=宋体><SPAN lang=EN-US><SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </P> <P class=MsoPlainText style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.57">文：刘鹰 杨志<SPAN lang=EN-US><SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN></SPAN>图：<SPAN lang=EN-US>kailas 5524</SPAN>峰攀登队</P></SPAN></SPAN></FONT><FONT face=宋体> <P class=MsoPlainText style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 5cm; mso-char-indent-count: 13.5"><SPAN lang=EN-US>C1:4480 N:31.20232 E:102.88431</SPAN></P> <P class=MsoPlainText style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 5cm; mso-char-indent-count: 13.5"><SPAN lang=EN-US>C2:4915 N:31.20071 E:102.88682</SPAN></P> <P class=MsoPlainText style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 5cm; mso-char-indent-count: 13.5">垭口<SPAN lang=EN-US>5226 N:31.19602 E:102.88876</SPAN></P> <P class=MsoPlainText style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.57"></FONT> </P> <P class=MsoPlainText style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.57"><FONT face=宋体> 一<SPAN lang=EN-US>.</SPAN>山峰位置资料</FONT></P> <P class=MsoPlainText style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.57"><FONT face=宋体><SPAN lang=EN-US style="COLOR: black">5524</SPAN><SPAN style="COLOR: black">峰位于四川省<SPAN lang=EN-US><A href="https://www.8264.com/topic/keyword/713a/" target=_blank><SPAN lang=EN-US><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT color=#000000>阿坝</FONT></SPAN></SPAN></A></SPAN>藏族羌族自治州理县<SPAN lang=EN-US><A href="https://www.bipenggou.com/" target=_blank><SPAN lang=EN-US><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT color=#000000>毕棚沟</FONT></SPAN></SPAN></A><A href="https://www.8264.com/" target=_blank><SPAN lang=EN-US><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT color=#800080>旅游</FONT></SPAN></SPAN></A></SPAN>风景区深处，和<SPAN lang=EN-US><A href="https://www.8264.com/14493.html" target=_blank><SPAN lang=EN-US><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT color=#000000>半脊峰</FONT></SPAN></SPAN></A></SPAN>在同一条山脊，距离<SPAN lang=EN-US><A href="https://www.8264.com/14493.html" target=_blank><SPAN lang=EN-US><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT color=#000000>半脊峰</FONT></SPAN></SPAN></A></SPAN>约<SPAN lang=EN-US>4</SPAN>公里，距离<SPAN lang=EN-US><A href="https://www.8264.com/topic/keyword/917a/" target=_blank><SPAN lang=EN-US><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT color=#000000>长坪沟</FONT></SPAN></SPAN></A><A href="https://www.8264.com/topic/keyword/50a/" target=_blank><SPAN lang=EN-US><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT color=#000000>穿越</FONT></SPAN></SPAN></A><A href="https://www.bipenggou.com/" target=_blank><SPAN lang=EN-US><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT color=#000000>毕棚沟</FONT></SPAN></SPAN></A></SPAN>的垭口约<SPAN lang=EN-US>2</SPAN>公里。距离四川省会成都<SPAN lang=EN-US>250</SPAN>余公里，成都出发至上海子<SPAN lang=EN-US><A href="https://www.8264.com/topic/keyword/601a/" target=_blank><SPAN lang=EN-US><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT color=#000000>大本营</FONT></SPAN></SPAN></A></SPAN>约需五到七小时。交通极为便利，<SPAN lang=EN-US><A href="https://www.8264.com/topic/keyword/601a/" target=_blank><SPAN lang=EN-US><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT color=#000000>大本营</FONT></SPAN></SPAN></A></SPAN>通中国移动手机信号。</SPAN></FONT></P> <P class=MsoPlainText style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.57"><FONT face=宋体><SPAN style="COLOR: black"></SPAN></FONT> </P> <P class=MsoPlainText style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.57"><FONT face=宋体><SPAN lang=EN-US style="COLOR: black">5524</SPAN><SPAN style="COLOR: black">峰的资料和相片是攀登队员赵峻在五一期间收集并拍摄。但通过我们此次攀登并走访当地居民得知，<SPAN lang=EN-US>5524</SPAN>峰早年被人称为将军峰，在日隆方面称呼其为羊满台。现多以无名峰为称呼。并且已故著名<SPAN lang=EN-US><A href="https://www.8264.com/list/226" target=_blank><SPAN lang=EN-US><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT color=#000000>登山家</FONT></SPAN></SPAN></A></SPAN>查理<SPAN lang=EN-US>.</SPAN>福勒在<SPAN lang=EN-US>2000</SPAN>年的时候曾经从长平沟方向对该<SPAN lang=EN-US><A href="https://www.8264.com/list/225/" target=_blank><SPAN lang=EN-US><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT color=#000000>山峰</FONT></SPAN></SPAN></A></SPAN>进行过攀登。</SPAN></FONT></P> <P class=MsoPlainText style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.57"><FONT face=宋体><SPAN style="COLOR: black"></SPAN></FONT> </P> <P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.57"><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">二</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">攀登背景</SPAN></P> <P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.57"><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">此次攀登是和</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">KAILAS</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">公司合作进行。在</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">2007</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">年</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">5</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">月，此次攀登队员赵峻考察了从毕棚沟对该山峰进行攀登的进山线路。</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">2007</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">年</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">8</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">月</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">KAILAS</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">公司批准了此次攀登计划，</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">2007</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">年</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">9</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">月从四川省登协办理了攀登许可。</SPAN></P> <P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.57"><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'"></SPAN> </P> <P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.57"><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">三</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">攀登队员介绍</SPAN></P> <P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.57"><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">此次攀登队员共</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">4</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">名，分别是：刘鹰（</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">ID</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">高度）赵峻（</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">ID</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">土匪）杨志（</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">ID</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">男儿本自重横行）冯毅龙（</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">ID</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">格陵兰）</SPAN></P> <P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.57"><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">此次攀登资料最早由冯毅龙收集并整理后。</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">6</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">月杨志、刘鹰和冯毅龙商定在国庆的时候以阿尔卑斯方式对该山峰进行一次快速攀登，</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">7</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">月赵峻加入此次攀登计划。</SPAN></P> <P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.57"><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">此次计划中，刘鹰和赵峻负责先锋攀登，杨志负责协调、沟通赞助商，赵峻负责收集整理山峰资料。</SPAN></P> <P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.57"><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'"></SPAN> </P><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'"> <P class=MsoPlainText style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.57"><SPAN lang=EN-US>9</SPAN>月３０日，抵达<SPAN lang=EN-US>C1</SPAN></P> <P class=MsoPlainText style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.57">攀登线路：<SPAN lang=EN-US>3500</SPAN>米<SPAN lang=EN-US>BC</SPAN>—<SPAN lang=EN-US>4480</SPAN>米<SPAN lang=EN-US>C1</SPAN>（<SPAN lang=EN-US>N:31.20232 E:102.88431</SPAN>）</P> <P class=MsoPlainText style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.57">主要地形：冲沟，灌木丛，乱石破</P> <P class=MsoPlainText style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.57">今天从<SPAN lang=EN-US>BC</SPAN>出发抵达<SPAN lang=EN-US>C1</SPAN>，上午９点出发，下午３点到达。耗时近６个小时，共上升高度１０００米，行进距离约<SPAN lang=EN-US>1</SPAN>２公里。</P> <P class=MsoPlainText style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.57"> </P> <P class=MsoPlainText style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.57">１０月１日，修通到悬冰川的岩石路线</P> <P class=MsoPlainText style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.57">早上５：３０起床烧水做饭，７：３０出发，全负重步行约一个小时后到达冰川下面，穿好安全带等技术装备已经是九点半，顺着冰川右边一个岩石槽往上攀登，岩石很破碎。九点半开始飘雪花，随即变成鹅毛大雪，我们在岩壁上上也不是下也不是，雪越来越大，只好从包里拿出外帐，用登山杖支着做了个简易的天幕，中午１２：００雪停，决定下撤，再架设好下撤的路绳后，土匪问：你怎么想？我说：当然不甘心！土匪眼睛一亮：死磕！于是我俩决定留下先把到冰川的岩壁架设好路绳，方便改天再上。这段看起来很平常的岩壁路线，我俩足足花了七十分钟才修好路线。</P> <P class=MsoPlainText style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.57"> </P> <P class=MsoPlainText style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.57">１０月２日，雨，<SPAN lang=EN-US>C1</SPAN>休整</P> <P class=MsoPlainText style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.57">研究决定由土匪高度和冯毅龙三人携带一顶高山帐和１０只冰锥，一套机械塞，一套<SPAN lang=EN-US>NTUS</SPAN>（块塞），３对小镐，以及两条６０米半绳沿北壁冰川直上，相机建立<SPAN lang=EN-US>C2</SPAN>营地并冲顶。</P> <P class=MsoPlainText style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.57"> </P> <P class=MsoPlainText style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt"> １０月３日，<SPAN lang=EN-US>C1-C2</SPAN>，（<SPAN lang=EN-US>C2:4915 N:31.20071 E:102.88682</SPAN>）</P> <P class=MsoPlainText style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt"> 主要地形：乱石堆，岩壁，冰川</P> <P class=MsoPlainText style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.57">早上同样是５：３０起床烧水做饭，７：３０出发，９：２０开始上岩壁，冯毅龙因为嫌绳子背着重，想把它拖着上来，结果被岩缝卡住了，我只好下去收拾，耽搁了一点时间。背着包通过这段岩壁才知道极难，岩壁路线很光滑，没什么点，而且有很多青苔，非常滑。约１１：３０，我们终于站在冰川边上了。在海拔近五千的高度上沿冰川攀冰直上，的确很困难。这段由土匪先锋，起步就有个三米的直壁，土匪又是负重攀登，费了好大劲才通过了这个难点，上去后对我说手都木了。。。设好保护站，冯毅龙跟攀了一段，他决定退出攀登回<SPAN lang=EN-US>C1</SPAN>等我俩。于是把他包里的公用装备都取出来放进我包里<SPAN lang=EN-US>,</SPAN>这样我的包就有三十几斤了，背着这么重的包我是无论如何也通不过这段难点的。于是决定空身上去再把包吊上去。太阳很好，过直壁那段的时候，冰川上的流水像小瀑布似的，难怪刚才冯毅龙淋得那么湿。过了难点，拧了两只冰锥把自己挂起来，然后让冯毅龙把包挂在绳子上拉上来，幸好还带了滑轮和上升器，不然拖包又是一个极为痛苦且漫长的过程。包吊上来了，我俩又爬了两个绳距，看看表已经是下午四点，现在到了一面１０米高的冰墙下面，考虑到再往上营地选择可能会有问题，遂决定就地宿营。这里约有１５－２０度的坡度，表面是七八公分的粒雪，下面是坚冰，平整营地就花了１个小时，帐篷搭好了，又用四只冰锥固定住，拉上风绳，一切搞好后已经快六点半了。我们在帐篷旁边挖了个坑，居然有水？！？</P> <P class=MsoPlainText style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.57"> </P> <P class=MsoPlainText style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.57">这下可好了，一晚上我们都不用出帐篷来取雪化水了。土匪有个坏习惯，攀爬困难冰壁时不戴手套，两只手的指关节都碰烂了，进了帐篷就忙着贴创可贴，我们将今天的路线戏称为“绞肉机”。<SPAN lang=EN-US>C2</SPAN>营地可比<SPAN lang=EN-US>C1</SPAN>的乱石堆上平多了，夜里睡得极舒服。</P> <P class=MsoPlainText style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.57"> </P> <P class=MsoPlainText style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.57">１０月４日，<SPAN lang=EN-US>C2</SPAN>——垭口（垭口<SPAN lang=EN-US>5226 N:31.19602 E:102.88876</SPAN>）</P> <P class=MsoPlainText style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.57">主要地形：冰川，雪坡</P> <P class=MsoPlainText style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.57">早上睡过头了，６：００才起来，吃完早饭收拾装备出发已经是８：１０。第一段由我先锋，冰墙坡度近８０度，但今天我俩都是轻装，不算吃力。两个绳距以后，我们上到坡度较缓的雪坡上了，于是交替保护和结组行军并用，于１１：４０到达垭口（垭口<SPAN lang=EN-US>5226 N:31.19602 E:102.88876</SPAN>）。从这里看幺妹的确很震撼，垭口右边是骆驼峰东峰。还能看见长坪沟里弯弯曲曲的小路。看着羊满台距顶峰还有三百多米陡峭的岩壁和岩壁下面雪坡上的落石，我和土匪都打消了冲顶的念头，这次我俩已经尽力了。于，拍照。一点半下撤，觉得有点不妙。雪现在化得厉害，我俩的冰爪都没有阻雪板，走两步就得敲掉爪上的积雪，而且这段雪坡很陡，一旦滑倒后果不堪设想。只好采取交替保护的方式下撤。这样下撤速度很慢，回到<SPAN lang=EN-US>C2</SPAN>已经下午六点。已经没法撤回<SPAN lang=EN-US>C1</SPAN>，于是继续在<SPAN lang=EN-US>C2</SPAN>宿营一晚。</P> <P class=MsoPlainText style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.57"> </P> <P class=MsoPlainText style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.57">１０月５日<SPAN lang=EN-US>C2</SPAN>——<SPAN lang=EN-US>BC</SPAN></P> <P class=MsoPlainText style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.57">睡到８：００起来收拾装备，９：００下撤。我和土匪两人配合极好，冰川上连续下降三段绳距都很快。下到岩壁速度就慢下来了，因为岩壁不是直下，而且那个路绳也感觉让人不太放心，１２：３０下到乱石堆上，与前来接应的杨志和冯毅龙会合。</P> <P class=MsoPlainText style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.57"> </P> <P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.57"></SPAN> </P> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.57"><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'"></SPAN> </P></BLOCKQUOTE> [ 本帖最后由 男儿本自重横行 于 2007-11-9 14:30 编辑 ] |
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