本帖最后由 恩格斯那兔 于 2023-7-23 00:57 编辑 以前看过几个老帖讨论稳压阀,但是到现在这个论坛都快凉透了,也没看到有人来清楚地解释这个问题。 tldr: 能适应低温环境,是因为有了稳压阀就可以将喷孔(edit: 实际上是进气孔)做大,这样气罐内压力低的时候会有更多的气喷出来。 以下内容来自 Adventures In Stoving: What is a regulator valve, and how can it help? There are several layers here, so bear with me. It should make sense in the end. First, a regulator valve has a pressure regulator built into it. This pressure regulator can insure that no more than a certain flow of gas is fed to the burner at a time. Uh, Jim, that's great, but I thought you said the problem was not enough gas. Now, you're talking about a device that prEVENTs too much gas. Well, yes, and here's the issue: A stove has to be able to operate safely in hot weather as well as cold. If the stove designer "opens up" a stove too much in terms of gas flow, then there could be a disaster in the offing. Here's what I mean: It's a hot day. Your canister pressure is at an all time high. You open up your valve all the way without really thinking about it. The gas rushes through with such force that the flame lifts off the burner and is pushed out and away from where the gas is coming from. If pushed far enough, the flame will go out even though there was no interruption to the flow of gas. Now, let's think about this. We've got a red hot stove, and the flame is out. We've got volumes of highly flammable petroleum gas rushing out of the tank. Say, do you think that having a highly flammable, potentially explosive gas rushing toward red hot metal could be a problem? This could go bad very quickly. I think you get my drift here. If a stove designer opens up a stove too much, he or she risks putting someone into the burn ward of the hospital unless... unless there's a pressure regulator present of course. Now, with a pressure regulator, the stove designer can "open up" the flow all he or she likes without worrying about exceeding a maximum safe amount. If the canister pressure gets too high, the regulator steps in and inhibits the pressure. In cold weather, our "opened up" stove lets plenty of gas through, and we can cook even when the canister pressure is fairly low. Take a look at the photo below. On the left is the jet of a regulator valved stove, a soto WindMaster (perhaps the highest quality upright canister stove on the market today). On the right is the jet of a non-regulator valved stove from Primus. You can see even with the naked eye that the aperture of the jet on the left is quite a bit larger. Measurements reveal that the regulator valved stove has a jet size of 0.4 mm. The non-regulator valved stove has a jet size of 0.23 mm. (It's a bit confusing because the jet on the right is stamped "32" which may be a part number, but the size is 0.23 mm.) If we calculate the cross sectional area of each jet, we find that the regulated jet's area is more than triple that of the non-regulated jet. You can get a lot more gas through that larger opening. A regulator valved stove, left (a Soto WindMaster). A non-regulator valved stove on the right. The regulator valved stove has a jet size of 0.4 mm. The non-regulator valved stove has a jet size of 0.23 mm. A non regulator valved stove can't be opened up like this; it just isn't safe. The designer has to build a non regulated stove such that it is safe at maximum canister pressure; there is no inhibiting regulator. He or she has to "choke" the stove, and cannot allow it to be opened up. When cold weather comes, a non-regulator valved stove doesn't have the capability to let enough gas through, and performance falls off quickly. A regulator valved stove can be built such that the stove can operate at near 100% flame when there is, say, only 15% of maximum pressure available. On the other hand, a non-regulator valved stove operated at 15% of maximum pressure will have a flame that is about 15% of maximum. Being able to have a 100% flame at, say, 15% pressure is the true advantage of a regulator valved stove in cold weather. Note that I'm using "15%" here. This number is meant to be illustrative more than it is meant to be exact. Each stove's design will be different. |
稳压阀没啥难理解的呀,用三峡水库来打比方,夏天洪水期,上游洪水袭来,三峡水库会拦截洪水,向下游稳定排水;冬天枯水期,来水减少,三峡水库就会蓄水到一定水位后向下游稳定排水。稳压阀也是一样道理,夏天天气热,气罐内压力大,稳压阀就起到控制出气压力作用,冬季太冷,气罐内压力变小,但是当气体在稳压阀内蓄积到一定压力就可以保持稳定输出。 |
你的观点是阀后喷孔大小和有无稳压阀完全无关。也就是说,当其他因素不变时,无稳压阀的喷孔反而可以比有的时候开得更大,并且当节流阀全开时不会造成安全隐患。可否请你拿出论据来详细证明一下你的观点? 我有od1r的日版说明书,上面并没有与这个问题相关的说明。 |
我来总结下,你带来的观点是,出气孔做大和稳压阀存在必然联系,进而证明出气孔大是能适应低温环境的原因,最后总结稳压阀是因此能适应低温环境。 如果这中间没有必然联系,论据是支撑不了论点的。 而我只是指出,这中间没有必然性,最后的出气孔大小和很多因素有关,不能简单拿两个炉头的拆解(拆解的还不完全)就得出结论。 要你看说明书,是因为说明书上已经有稳压阀的结构和原理,如果看不明白可以翻老贴。 |
我看原文的观点是“因为有了稳压阀就可以将喷孔做大”,而不是“有稳压阀的喷孔一定比没有的大”,原文都是在控制变量的语境下进行论证的呀,是什么让你产生了误解?你可以指出原文的图并不能严格证实原文的观点,但是你说我们“都是错的理解”,我希望能看到你的论据来证明你的观点。 我觉得这帖里没有看不懂稳压结构的人,作用原文里讲的已经很清楚了,不知道为什么你非要提这个。 |
“因为有了稳压阀就可以将喷孔做大”,这是论据。你要证明的是因为出气孔(喷孔)做大了才是解决低温的关键。后者才是你的观点(论点)。 而我说的是,能将出气孔做大,稳压阀不是必然的因素。气孔在合理设计范围内的大小是和后端的设计相关更大,最终的结果大部分体现在功率大小。 为了让你更好的理解,我按你的逻辑来推一下,更大的出气孔就能更适应低温,那我带功率超大的炉头就行了。因为它的出气孔一定非常大。。。。如果你还不能理解,那本贴我的回复也就到此为止了。 |