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K2山难(信息更新,荷兰人Wilco van Rooijen 描述了山上的情况)

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发表于 2008-8-4 02:58 1 只看该作者 | 倒序浏览 | 只看本帖大图
以下新闻来自BBC

At least nine climbers are feared to have died in north Pakistan trying to scale the world's second-highest peak, K2, Expedition organisers say.
There are fears more climbers could have died, or still be trapped, after an avalanche, but others did manage to reach safety. A chunk from an ice pillar snapped away on Friday and broke ropes on a feature called the Bottleneck, reports said. Only a few hundred people have climbed K2 and dozens have died in the attempt. Many regard the mountain, at 8,611 metres (28,251 ft), as the world's most difficult peak to climb. Expedition organisers only learned of the avalanche after a group of climbers arrived back at the mountain's base camp on Saturday evening. Several search parties have since been despatched to rescue the remaining climbers, organisers said.  

Fatality rate There are reports some mountaineers may be stuck above the Bottleneck, unable to descend as the fixed ropes are broken.
Climbers call the area the Death Zone as lack of oxygen at that altitude can cause bodies to degenerate. The weather is thought to be fair but the Pakistani military is still unsure whether it can launch a rescue attempt at such an altitude. Renowned climber REInhold Messner told the BBC the situation was "very critical" and those above the Bottleneck might have to try to climb down on the Chinese side to survive. One Basque climber who reached safety, Alberto Zerain, told reporters mountaineers had hit trouble on their Descent. The mountaineers include Koreans, Pakistanis, NEPAlis, a Dutchman and an Italian, reports say, but exact details remain unclear.

K2山难(信息更新,荷兰人Wilco van Rooijen 描述了山上的情况)




Buried on the mountain A total of 22 climbers were thought to be high up on the mountain when the avalanche hit, says the BBC's Syed Shoaib Hasan in Islamabad. Reports from the mountain's base camp say that two separate parties of Serbian and Norwegian climbers have been able to make it back and that a Serbian and a Norwegian had died on the slopes, our correspondent says.

Mountaineer Chris Bonnington talks about the dangers of K2

The Serbians say they buried their team member as it was impossible to bring his body back. The Norwegians say their companion was lost in the avalanche. One of the climbers reported missing is Gerard McDonnell, 37, from County Limerick in Ireland, the first Irish person to reach the mountain's summit. He was on the Norit K2 expedition. Its leader, Dutchman Wilco van Rooijen, was reported safe, as was Italian climber Marco Confortola. But Frenchman Hugues d'Aubarede is missing. The fatality rate for those who reach the summit at 27% is about three times higher than that for Mount Everest. One of the worst single-day death tolls was on Everest on 11 May, 1996, when eight people died in summit attempts. Six people fell to their deaths or disappeared during a storm on K2 on 13 August, 1995. The summit of K2 was first reached by two Italians, Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni, on 31 July 1954.

K2山难(信息更新,荷兰人Wilco van Rooijen 描述了山上的情况)

说下大致意思

BBC报道说,现在至少有9人在K2面临死亡的危险.报道说在上周5(8月1日)雪崩发生时,山上有22名登山者,这其中包括韩国人,巴基斯坦人,尼泊尔人,一个荷兰人,一个意大利人.但具体的人员的国籍现在还不清楚.
现在有2个登山队的部分人员回到了BC(一队为塞而塞尔维亚人,另一队为挪威人),但是这2队中分别都有一个人在下撤的过程中已经死亡。
其他的登山队现在急需救援,虽然现在天气情况趋于缓和,但是巴基斯坦军方仍然不能确认是否能派出救援。有消息说一些登山者可能被困在了被称为Bottleneck的上面(Bottleneck海拔为8211m),因为雪崩已经将路绳破坏。登山家Reinhold Messner说现在情况非常紧急,被困在Bottleneck上的人可能会试图从中国一侧寻找下山的路线从而得到重生的机会。幸存的塞尔维亚登山者说,他们将同伴的遗体埋葬了山上,因为他们无法将遗体运回BC.


来自BBC的最新消息

Eleven climbers have died in north Pakistan trying to scale the world's second-highest peak, K2, reports say. An eyewitness says 25 climbers reached the summit on Friday, but nine were stranded and froze to death after an avalanche swept away their fixed ropes. In the deadliest day in K2's history, another climber fell to his death and a porter died recovering a body. The avalanche happened when a chunk from an ice pillar snapped away on a feature called the Bottleneck. Swedish climber Fredrick Streng, who had decided not to attempt the summit, gave the BBC details of the EVENTs. He said several expeditions, with a total of 25 climbers, had taken advantage of Friday's fine weather to reach the summit of K2. But he said they returned late, and were tired when the avalanche struck out the fixed lines.

"There were still nine climbers above these ropes, which meant they had to spend the whole night out in the open," he said. "The next morning they were still there, not moving. And people during the night had been hit by the avalanche. One had died, one had fAllen at an earlier stage. "At the end of Saturday, 11 people were confirmed dead." Only a few hundred people have climbed K2 and dozens have died in the attempt. Many regard the mountain, at 8,611m (28,251ft), as the world's most difficult peak to climb.

大致意思
有目击者称在雪崩发生的当天,即上周5, 一共有25人登顶K2,但是有9人在雪崩发生后由于路绳被冲走而困

瑞典登山者Fredrick Streng当天没有尝试去登顶,他告诉BBC的通信员,上周5有多个登山队,总计25人趁着好天气去登顶K2,但是他们下撤的时间晚了.他说雪崩发生后有 9人被困在了Bottleneck上,这意味着这些人必须在没有帐篷的条件下度过整晚.周6早上这些人仍然没有移动,而且他们在周5晚上再次受到了雪崩的袭击,其中有一人死亡.而另外有一个人在早先的雪崩中已经被雪崩冲了下去.
截止到周6晚上,已经确认有11人死亡


BBC GMT9:00
Rescue operations continue on K2
Helicopters have begun airlifting climbers stranded on the world's second-highest mountain, K2, in north Pakistan, reports say.

News agency Reuters said Rescuers had reached two Dutch members of the group, 11 of whom are feared dead. A witness reported that 25 climbers reached the summit on Friday, but nine froze to death after an avalanche swept away their fixed ropes. Another climber fell to his death and a porter died recovering a body.

Many regard the 8,611m (28,251ft) peak as the world's most difficult to climb. In the deadliest day in K2's history, the avalanche occurred when a chunk from an ice pillar snapped away on a feature called the Bottleneck.

Cpt Azeemullah Baig told Reuters that a Pakistani army helicopter had already picked up the two Dutch climbers, and was due to return for a group of Italians on another spot. "Thanks to Almighty Allah, the rescue operation has started this morning," he said. Only a few hundred people have climbed K2 and dozens have died in the attempt.

BBC源引路透社的消息,原先被怀疑死亡的11人里,现在有2个荷兰人已经被巴基斯坦军方的救援直升机救起.现在正在返回去另外一个位置营救一队意大利登山队员


BBC GMT 12:26
Pakistani helicopters have rescued two Dutch climbers from a group that lost 11 members over the weekend on the world's second-highest mountain, K2.

Bad weather delayed efforts to rescue an Italian climber still stranded on the mountain, the AFP news agency says.

由于当地糟糕的天气,救援工作被延迟,早先发现的一名意大利登山生还者现在仍然被困在山上. 这名意大利登山者叫Marco Confortola


BBC GMT 06:12  5 Augest

K2 survivors describe avalanche

Survivors of an expedition to the top of the world's second-highest mountain have described scenes of panic after an avalanche hit the group on its descent.


Eleven climbers died on K2, in Pakistan, over the weekend.

As about 25 climbers descended from the peak of K2 in the darkness on Friday, the avalanche swept some climbers away and left others stranded.

An Italian member of the group has been reached by rescuers and taken to an advance base camp on the mountain.

"People were running down but didn't know where to go," Dutch survivor Wilco van Rooijen told Reuters news agency from a Pakistani military hospital where he is being treated for frostbite.

"So a lot of people were lost on the mountain on the wrong side, wrong route and then you have a big problem."

Many regard the 8,611m (28,251ft) peak as the world's most difficult to climb.

In the deadliest day in K2's history, the avalanche occurred when a chunk from an ice pillar snapped away on a steep gully called the Bottleneck.

Fixed ropes that the climbers relied on were torn away and several climbers were swept to their deaths.

Others froze to death after they were stranded high on the mountain in the high-altitude level above 8,000 metres climbers call the Death Zone - where there is not enough oxygen to support life.

The Italian climber still on the mountain, Marco Confortola, spoke by satellite phone to his brother Luigi.

"Up there it was hell," Ansa news agency quoted him as telling his brother.

"During the descent, beyond 8,000 metres (26,000 feet), due to the altitude and the exhaustion I even fell asleep in the snow and when I woke up I could not figure out where I was".

Pakistani helicopter pilots are attempting to reach Mr Confortola at the advance base camp at 6,000 metres where he has been taken by rescue climbers.

"The helicopters are at standby as the weather in Skardu, Baltoro [glacier] and the base camp remains inclement. An attempt will be made as soon as the weather clears," a statement
Mr van Rooijen said people in the large group of climbers - composed of several teams that had waited for a break in the weather to climb the mountain since July - had failed to work together after disaster struck.

"They were thinking of using my gas, my rope," he said. "So actually everybody was fighting for himself and I still do not understand why everybody was leaving each other."

He said he spent Friday night huddled in the snow above the Bottleneck with two other climbers, before making his way down the rest of the mountain.

He was airlifted by military helicopter from the mountain on Monday along with another Dutch climber.

He said some ropes had been laid in the wrong position - a mistake which took several valuable hours to correct, delaying the summit push until just before darkness.

Pakistani authorities said three South Koreans, two Nepalis, two Pakistani porters, and French, Serbian, Norwegian and Irish climbers had died on the mountain.


大概意思, 到目前为止,巴基斯坦官方说有3名韩国登山者, 2名夏尔巴, 2名巴基斯坦高山向导,一名法国人,一名塞尔维亚人,一名挪威人和一名爱尔兰登山者在这次雪崩中遇难. 荷兰队的幸存者Wilco van Rooijen 在巴基斯坦军方医院接受冻伤治疗时对路透社的记者说,很多人在下撤的时候并不知道该往哪里走,所以很多人走错了方向,走错了路,以至最后丢了性命.
意大利登山者Marco Confortola被赶到山上进行救援的人带到了ABC,他通过卫星电话与他的兄弟Luigi通了话,他说当时山上就是地狱. 在雪崩发生后开始下撤的时候,海拔超过8000m, 由于缺氧和自己已经筋疲力尽,他甚至在雪地里睡着了,当他醒来的时候他完全分辨不清自己是在哪里.
现在巴基斯坦的军方救援直升机已经在准备状态,但是现在Skardu, Baltoro (冰河)以及BC的天气都很不好,巴基斯坦军方说只要天气放晴,他们就会出动尝试去6000米处的ABC把Marco Confortola接下来
另外荷兰人Wilco van Rooijen 还说,从7月开始,大量的登山者在K2等待着天气转好以便去登顶,但是当灾难发生时,大家并没有选择去合作. 荷兰人说在雪崩发生后他们(即其他登山者)想用我的gas和绳子,每个人都在为了自己能够存活而想办法.荷兰人说他仍然不明白为什么大家会一个个离开而不是聚在一起想办法. 他还说上周5晚上他和另外2个人在bottleneck上是挤在一起睡觉的,本周一他和另外一个荷兰队的队员被救援直升机接了回来.荷兰人还说,K2上一些路绳的位置是错误的,这个错误导致了他们在登顶的时候浪费了宝贵的几个小时,他们在天黑前在刚刚登顶




BBC at 09:17 GMT, 5 August 2008

Seven survivors are now off the mountain and either in hospital or recuperating and four others are still missing. Rescuers say that hopes that those missing can still be saved are receding fast.

现在一共有7名幸存者,他们都得到的妥善的安置,另外现在还有4人失踪, 营救人员说现在这4名失踪人员的生还希望已经越来越渺茫

[ 本帖最后由 johnlubao 于 2008-8-5 20:35 编辑 ]
2人 评分 查看全部评分
发表于 2008-8-4 03:19 2 只看该作者
刚看了BBC的新闻,说是雪崩,已经有11人确认死亡.
发表于 2008-8-4 03:24 3 只看该作者
刚才看电视
除了上面说的那些国家的登山者外还有美国和法国的登山者
发表于 2008-8-4 05:35 4 只看该作者
10点半BBC 24上的新闻还是说至少9人死亡and still more missing~~~~

[ 本帖最后由 johnlubao 于 2008-8-4 05:39 编辑 ]
发表于 2008-8-4 08:35 5 只看该作者
早上一来就看到这条新闻了
发表于 2008-8-4 08:41 6 只看该作者
难过之极,祈祷祝福,希望楼主为我们报道更详细的内容~
发表于 2008-8-4 08:45 7 只看该作者
晕,
这么多人呀.
发表于 2008-8-4 09:52 8 只看该作者

:(
:(
发表于 2008-8-4 10:28 9 只看该作者
:L
发表于 2008-8-4 10:35 10 只看该作者
咋总出事?哎,安全第一啊,生命可贵。
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