| 本帖最后由 疯岩风语 于 2013-9-24 17:27 编辑 Before setting off on the next pitch, always make sure a redirect is clipped as high as possible on the belay. If the leader falls before clipping the first bolt on the route, this redirect allows for the correct operation of braking belay devices like the REVERSO. Attention: this redirect reduces the fall factor, but increases the potential force on the belay anchors. A redirect on the belay station is for multi-pitch sport climbing, with bolted anchors. If the anchor doesn't seem totally solid, you should avoid this type of set-up. 在出发攀爬下一段线路前，永远都要在保护器的上方设置一个受力变向保护点，位置越高越好，并确定将保护绳扣入。如果领攀者在挂第一个挂片前脱落，这个变向保护点可以使如REVERSO之类的保护器进行正确的制动操作。注意：这个变向保护点减小了冲坠系数，但增加了确保锚点的潜在冲击力。在保护站设置变向保护点是应用于有螺栓锚点的多段结组运动攀。如果锚点不是相当的牢固，你应该避免这种设置。 Obligatory redirect: On a piece very close to the belay or on the bolted belay itself. 必要的受力变向保护点： 设在一个很接近确保的保护点上，或者直接在螺栓确保点上。  |
| 本帖最后由 疯岩风语 于 2013-9-24 17:28 编辑 At the belay, the rope is stacked so it won't get tangled or stuck. Try to avoid letting the loops hang lower than the belayer. A few minutes of organization before the leader sets off will help prevent a real mess later. 下图：在保护站，绳子是堆叠在一起的，因此不会缠结在一起或卡住。尽量避免绳圈挂在保护者之下。在领攀者出发前，花几分钟将绳子理顺可以避免稍后变得一团糟。 |
| 本帖最后由 疯岩风语 于 2013-9-24 17:30 编辑 Three solutions for organizing the rope 3种处理绳子的方法 Second belay on the Arête Ouest with no ledge. Here, the leader belays the second and stacks the rope on the anchor. This helps prevent the rope from getting hung up on the flakes below. 在Arête Ouest 线路上的第二个保护站没有平台 在这里，领攀者在保护跟攀者并将绳子有序的堆叠在锚点上。 这样可以防止绳子挂住下方的岩石薄片。 |
The same team at the start of the 3rd pitch on the Arête Ouest. The same person is doing the leading (white helmet) and the second (orange helmet) took the time to re-stack the rope. At the beginning of the pitch, the belayer pays very careful attention to the climber, especially when clipping. 在Arête Ouest 线路上，同一个团队在第三段开始部分。同一个人正在领攀（白色头盔），同时第二个人（橙色头盔）慢慢的理绳、送绳。在这段线路的开始部分，确保者非常小心注意攀爬者的状态，特别是挂快挂的时候。 Why aren't all belays equipped with chains? The classic routes of the Cirque des Vases are frequently climbed. Not putting chains on the anchors prevents people from rappelling the routes and getting in the way of other climbers. A specific rappel descent was put in place. If a team does have trouble and needs to descend, it could at least rap off the glue-in bolts. At the top of the routes, the last belay is often placed on the edge of the cliff. They are set up this way to avoid rock fall from the top caused by the rope, etc. and they also make it easier for the team to communicate, especially if there's a lot of wind. If the leader does decide to belay from the top, s/he should be careful to keep in mind what's going on below. Pay careful attention to the knots and the correct usage of belay devices - realizing that the set-up might be the opposite of how it is normally. It's usually preferable to hang below the edge and belay. 为什么所有的保护站不是都装有钢链？Cirque des Vases的经典线路经常被人频繁的攀爬。没有在保护站上安装顶链是为了防止人们从上往下降而妨碍其他攀岩者的攀爬。一个特定的下降保护点设在旁边。如果某个团队确实碰到麻烦并必须下降，至少可以离开化学螺栓挂片的线路。在线路的顶部，最后一个保护站往往设在悬崖的边上。这种设置是为了避免顶部因为绳子等其他东西导致的落石。同时这样使队员间的通讯更加容易，特别是在风很大的时候。如果领攀者确实要在顶部做保护，她/他必须小心记住确保的操作流程。非常注意绳结和正确使用保护器--意识到这样的设置可能和正常情况下正好相反。通常情况下，挂在悬崖边上确保更合适。 Pay attention to these situations: When climbing in a party of three, the two seconds can climb at the same time, but make sure that there is enough space between the two, so one doesn't fall on the other. When climbing in a party of three, the first of the two seconds must not remove the other second's rope from the quickdraw, especially when there is a traverse involved. 注意这些情况： **当攀爬团队是3个人时，后面的2个跟攀者可以同时攀爬，但是一定要确定2个跟攀者之间保持足够的距离，这样其中一个人脱落时才不会砸在另一个人的身上。 **当攀爬团队是3个人时，2个跟攀者的第一个人一定不能将另外一个人的绳子从快挂里解开，特别是在线路有横移部分的时候。 |
Climbing with three people on the Arête Ouest. Here, the leader is belaying both the seconds at the same time. In this scenario, the REVERSO 3 is ideal (it's important to take up slack on each line regularly, keeping the ropes taut and always keep your brake hand on each of the ropes). 3个人的团队在Arête Ouest线路上攀爬。在这里，领攀者同时在保护后面2个跟攀者。在这种情况下，使用REVERSO 3是理想的选择（有规律的收起每条绳多余的松懈部分很重要，保持绳子一直处于绷紧的状态，同时制动手永远都要保持抓着每条绳）。 |
The 1st second removed both ropes from the last quickdraw on the pitch. As a result, the 2nd second is not well protected for the last moves of the traverse. |
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