| 本帖最后由 崇幄 于 2018-12-12 21:44 编辑 首登成员第一次对线路进行分析的原文和译文如下所示： 原文： The southern and eastern approaches to the Konka were relatively difficult of access, and information or photographs from these two directions seemed entirely unavailable. From our camp at Camp Alpine the summit lay slightly south of east, thus precluding any view of the southern slopes. From the west and north the mountain presented no very encouraging aspects.'' AS has been observed, the western face fell away seemingly sheer for thousands of feet, as did that on the north. The only ray of hope was found in the singularly long and uniformly steep ridge extending from a spur on the northwest at about 21,000 feet to the summit. It was a most uninviting sort of ridge, and we gave it but little consideration. It remained then to solve the enigma of the southern and eastern slopes before any route could be picked with finality and the assurance that it was the best one. 原创译文（保留一切权利） 从南面和东面攀登贡嘎的方案因其接近性而相对困难，关于贡嘎来自这两个方向的信息或照片似乎完全不可用。从我们位于Camp Alpine的营地看上去，顶峰位于东边略微偏南，这样它阻挡了看清楚南坡的任何角度。从西北面看，这山没有展现出很令人鼓舞的方面。如已被观察到的那样，西壁似乎垂直地向下延伸数千英尺，北壁也一样。唯一的希望之光在于一道非常长且同样陡峭的山脊，它延伸自海拔21,000英尺通向顶峰的西北分支。这是一种最讨厌的山脊，对它我们只是略微考虑了一小会。在任何线路能被最终选定并确保其为最佳线路之前，那么揭开这个谜题的机会就只能存在于对南坡和东坡的探索之中。  |
| 本帖最后由 崇幄 于 2018-12-13 14:50 编辑 这是首登成员提交给国家地理杂志的文章中的分析，这座山峰首登所代表的另一个成就据说是：贡嘎山是当时人类以阿式攀登方式成功登顶的最高山峰 原创翻译（保留一切权利）： 木雅贡嘎能被攀登吗？ 从我们所处的位置观察西北山脊看上去过于陡峭：北壁和西壁是不可能攀登的悬崖。但是那个南山肩的情况如何呢？如果它是可以被攻克的，从那儿到顶峰的线路就会给我们提供一些希望。南山肩从我们测绘营地的位置是无法接近的。唯一的机会可能存在于对贡嘎山其它侧面的探索。到达一个能从那里把这件事确定下来的地点是我们下一步的目标。 原文： 最惹人注目的是白色的西北山脊，它陡直地爬升到主峰。越过它我们可以看到一个类似的山脊横跨北壁，并沿着东北方向爬升。在我们面前，灰色的西壁几乎垂直地向下延伸而进入一个在右侧具有高耸扶壁的大型雪原。从顶峰向南沿着天际线下来是一个巨大的山肩，从那里几乎是垂直向下延伸的峭壁的较低部分被介于期间的群山隐匿。而隐藏西北山脊底部的则是一座锐利的对称型山峰，它比其它山峰离我们更近，且有一个山脊向南延伸。我们很确定地推测，贡巴山谷就躺在恰好越过这个山脊的位置。 Most conspicuous was the white, northwest ridge, rising steeply to the summit. Beyond it we looked across the north face to a similar ridge, rising from the northeast. In front of us the gray, western face dropped almost sheer into a big snowfield with a high spur at the right. From the summit southward the skyline descended to a big shoulder, and from that dropped nearly straight down, the lower part of the precipice concealed by intervening mountains. Hiding the bottom of the northwest ridge was a sharp symmetrical peak, nearer than the others, from which a ridge ran to the south. The valley of the Konka Gompa, we rightly surmised, lay beyond this ridge. |
| 本帖最后由 崇幄 于 2018-12-15 16:38 编辑 以下为侦查线路的攀登详情，侦查攀登是从贡嘎东南方向的山谷开始的，第一次侦查攀登为emmons和birdshall搭档，最后被深雪和坏天气阻挡，同时补给也出现不足，未能到达Chu山的垭口；第二次侦查攀登为emmons和moore搭档，由于这次是在不同的季节攀登，路线上的深雪障碍已不存在，所以最后到达Chu山垭口上的一个点，在这个点可以非常清楚地观察贡嘎的东南山脊线路，如本楼所附照片所示，当到达这个点后，他们观察到南脊不但陡峭漫长，而且呈锯齿状，最重要的是它与下面的巨大雪原之前有一条不可跨越的鸿沟，认为这并非他们的能力所及，于是决定把目标转向西北山脊线路。 第一次侦查攀登详情： What a sight greeted our eyes! We were in a tremendous amphitheater hemmed in on all sides by jagged snow peaks which towered many thousands of feet above us. Huge walls of blue-green ice menaced the lower slopes with the potential danger of mighty avalanches from their crumbling sides; razor-like ridges were fantastically capped by coxcombs and cornices of snow so huge and weird that only in the Himalayan system do such formations exist. We forgot our tent, supper, and everything else to stand enthralled by the magnificence of the scene. The Alps, the Canadian Rockies, even the great mountains of far Alaska would fade into the background before such glory and splendor displayed, as it was, in the rays of the setting sun. To our relief, several breaks in the northern ramparts disclosed themselves. The lowest of these looked quite inaccessible, but one other, from which a broken glacier descended, seemed to yield greater possibilities. Through the field-glasses a route was picked to a shoulder at one side of this higher gap, a point which, once gained, we felt should offer a splendid view of the Konka from the southeast.30 A heavy terminal moraine of loose snow-covered rocks confronted us; a worse footing would be hard to devise, and we lost considerable time before we reached the sloping tongue of ice which descended from the gap. As we neared a rocky outcrop, a herd of bharal, or Himalayan blue sheep, was spotted crossing a cliff face just above. We counted forty-two sheep, and among them were some beautiful heads. I-low I longed for my rifle I We put on that invention of the devil, crampons, and a rope, and began to climb in earnest. Three feet of wet soft snow on top of steep glacier ice made the going doubly arduous, when working, unacclimatized as we were, at 17,000 feet. A few hidden crevasses lay across our path, but these were of minor character and were easily discovered by sounding through the snow with an ice-ax, and, as the rope between us was always kept taut, risk of a fall was minimized. The grandeur on all sides increased as the horizon receded before our advance, and cameras received much attention. A brief halt was made for lunch and a rest, but soon we pressed on, realizing that there was yet a long way to climb before we topped the shoulder at 20?000 feet. The snow became softer and deeper, reducing progress to a snail's pace. Soon it became evident that we could not possibly reach our goal that day, but we decided to break the trail as far as time would allow for a second try later. The depth of the snow increased so much that it became impossible to touch bottom with our axes, thug materially increasing the danger of a nasty fall into a crevasse. In fact, in several suspicious-looking places I crawled across on my stomach to distribute my weight while Burdsall anchored me with the rope. By 4 P.M. we arrived at the base of a large area of badly broken ice and a number of huge cracks that cut the glacier transversely at about I 8,000 feet. As clouds had now begun to gather, we decided to call it a day and, feeling much disappointed that we had fallen so short of the mark, began the descent. Now it is a curious fact that in cloudy weather on unbroken snow certain conditions of diffused light some times prevail which render all sense of perspective false. Hummocks of snow only a few feet away appear as full-fledged mountains, and one stumbles into depressions or over ice blocks without seeing them at all. This effect has been remarked upon by several Arctic explorers and is especially prevalent in the polar regions. We encountered just such a phenomenon that afternoon in making our descent, but, fortunately, we had our tracks to follow and so experienced but little trouble, arriving at camp in two hours, whence it had taken us eight to climb. On the whole, it had been a rather disappointing day, but we both were better for the added acclimatization. Our food and fuel supplies were by now running low, with hardly enough of the latter for another day, but to save, if possible, another trip to Cloud Camp from Boka, we determined to eke out our stores and, weather permitting, would try again to reach the gap in the barrier wall before going back to our base. The day following the climb we were held in camp by another snowstorm. This meant that i f the weather permitted no advance on the morrow, we would be forced to return to Boka to renew supplies, and incidentally change our chronically wet clothes. 第二次侦查攀登详情： September 23 : Up at 6 A.M. Gorgeous weather. Breakfast and off for the North Col by 8. Took to the moraine at the right of the ice instead of on the left as before, and found much easier going (this route on the previous trip had been avoided, as it seemed badly exposed to avalanches, but on closer examination a rock arrite was found to shield it from any such danger). Put on crampons at 17,000 feet and turned out onto the ice, joining the old route. Much less snow and a good surface. Arrived at the base of the ice fall by 10 A.M. where Dick and 1 stopped on the last trip. Worked up through the fall for several hundred feet, but were forced back by a huge crevasse. Lost an hour, but finally got around the difficulty on an avalanche fan (a huge pile of debris deposited by an avalanche, where it had spread out on the glacier below in the shape of a fan. As a rule they are good things to keep away from because, unlike lightning, avalanches are very apt to strike many times in the same place. Under certain conditions, however, crossing them is considered a legitimate risk). Climbed diagonally upward towards the shodder for some distance, crossing several more extensive fans. Encountered a rather stiff bit of ice work in a steep couloir, badly exposed to a hanging glacier above-rather ticklish (at this point steps had to be cut in the ice for a hundred feet or SO, only one man moving while the other belayed him with the rope). From here plain sailing to the shoulder in the col, kicking steps the whole way. Arrived at a point at about 20,000 feet by 2 P.M., taking six hours to do the 4,000 feet from camp-not so bad for what little acclimatization we've had. A few clouds hung around, but nothing to worry ahout. We were about three miles from the Konka, and the summit, to my surprise, was only 15" to the west of us. The south face was in plain view and was separated from the east face by a singularly jagged ridge, through a low gap in which, we could see the upper 3,000 feet of the latter and a flank of a ridge to the northeast behind. Both the eastern and southern faces had much the same appearance, dropping away in the stupendous rock cliffs too steep to hold much snow.32 Everything visible from here entirely out of the question-not a prayer! An extensive nevb lies on the lower southern flank, but it leads nowhere. Looks like the northwest ridge for us. Away off to the south a jumbled mass of snow peaks, some of them well up around 20,000 feet.33 Some photographs and a bit of lunch. Started down at 3 P.M., making camp by 7. Successful day, although the results are disappointing. 这就是接近南山脊路线的那个山谷，GE实景对比1932年的照片 |
| 本帖最后由 崇幄 于 2018-12-13 16:14 编辑 尽管美国人很谨慎，但首登也发生了很多事故 第一次事故，Emmons因为一匹独眼马的失足从马上摔下来，把背给摔伤了 第二次事故，还是这个Emmons比较点背，冲顶前最后一餐，做饭的时候切饼干，刀一滑，切伤了左手，深可见骨，这样就无法正常使用冰镐了，结果只能放弃冲顶 第三次事故，还是Emmons，他在之前的攀登过程中不知怎么冻伤了右脚，结果在下撤途中的第三营到第二营路段情况非常严重，剧痛难忍，为了能快速下撤把脚给保住，Emmons在从第二营以下的陡坡下撤时把包给扔了，并解开了绳子的保护，即使这样，他在最后一段还是严重到不能走只能爬了，幸亏被上来的接应人员及时发现 |
大隐隐于市江南 发表于 2018-12-14 09:56 西南壁已有美国队尝试过，1981年美国阿式队尝试的南壁，和首登队员提到的西壁，和我们所熟知的西南壁其实就是同一个壁，我计划用另一帖子讨论美国队的1981,1982的另两次攀登及其商业队发生的事故。 至于东南线路，就是顶楼图中所示的黄色线路，也就是首登队的侦查线路，后面放出的GE图还有英文攀登详情，以及前面翻译的线路选择文稿全部都在谈这条线路，你似乎没有专心看我的帖子啊？ |
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