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其它山峰

2017,我的攀登

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发表于 2018-1-2 08:12 显示全部帖子
捷克语原文:
Miňa Gangkar 7556 m n. m. (z tibetštiny, čínsky 贡嘎山, pinyin Gònggá Shān) nebo též Minya Konka či Mount Gongga je nejvyšší vrchol pohoří Ta-süe-šan, čínské provincie S’-čchuan a celé soustavy Vychodotibetskych pohoří. Jde o vůbec nejvychodněji ležící sedmitisícovku a třetí nejvyšší vrchol ležící mimo horskou soustavu Himálaj/Karákoram. Je to 41. nejvyšší vrchol světa (počítáme-li vrcholy s prominencí 500 metrů a více).[2] Pro okolní obyvatelstvo jde o posvátny vrchol. ( zdroj wiki)

poslední zpráva ze satelitního telefonu od Kořena:

Sms15:ve tri hodiny jsem stal na vrsku minya konky.Aspon myslim bo nic vysiho v okoli sirokodaleko nebylo.Drobek s gracii otacel v 7,3.Jsme oba v poradku v c5(vyjma mych rampouchu misto prstu na hnatach v bc nasadim medikaci a myslim ze to bude ok).Zitra chceme dat bc ale ceka nas ten ukrutny velbloud,nekolik trhlin a sjezdowka.Slavit budem az dole.K+D


průběh expedice můžete sledovat na facebooku zde:
https://www.facebook.com/MinyaKonka2017
发表于 2018-1-2 08:13 显示全部帖子
英文译文:
Mina Gangkar 7556 m above sea level (from Tibetan, Chinese 贡嘎 山, pinyin Gònggá Shān) or Minya Konka or Mount Gongga is the highest peak of Ta-sue-shan, Sichuan province of China and the whole of East Timothy Mountains. It is the easternmost located seven-thousandth and the third highest peak lying outside the Himalayas / Karakoram mountain system. It is the 41st highest peak in the world (when we count the peaks with a prominence of 500 meters or more). [2] The rest of the population is a sacred peak. (wiki source)

latest satellite phone message from Kořena:

Sms15: at three o'clock I was at the top of the minya konky.Aspon I think there was nothing in the vicinity of the near was not.Drobek with grace rotate at 7.3. We are both in the c5 arrangement (except my icicle instead of the fingertip on hnatach in bc deploy medication and I think it will be ok). Zitra we want dat bc but we are going to get the fucking camel, a few cracks and a downhill.Slavit will be from below.K + D


You can follow the progress of the expedition on facebook here:
https://www.facebook.com/MinyaKonka2017
发表于 2018-1-2 08:14 显示全部帖子
中文译文:
海拔7556米(來自西藏,中國貢嘎山,拼音GònggáShān)或明康佳(Minya Konka)或貢嘎山(Mount Gongga)是中國四川省大蘇山和東提摩西山脈的最高峰。位於喜瑪拉雅山脈/喀喇崑崙山脈之外的最高峰位於千峰和第三高峰。這是世界第41高峰(當我們計算突出500米或更高的山峰時)。 [2]其餘的人口是一個神聖的高峰。 (wiki源)

Kořena最新的衛星電話信息:

Sms15:三點鐘我在Minya konky的頂端。因為我認為附近沒有什麼東西在附近沒有.Dosek帶著恩典旋轉了7.3。我們都在c5安排(除了我的冰柱,而不是在bc部署藥物hnatach指尖,我認為這將是好的)。 Zitra我們想要BC BC,但我們將得到他媽的駱駝,一些裂縫和一個下坡.Slavit將從下面.K + D


您可以在這裡按照facebook上的考察進度:
https://www.facebook.com/MinyaKonka2017
route_west_turn to_north-west-summit-2.jpg

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route_west_turn to_north-west-summit-3.jpg

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发表于 2018-1-2 08:15 显示全部帖子
中文译文:
海拔7556米(來自西藏,中國貢嘎山,拼音GònggáShān)或明康佳(Minya Konka)或貢嘎山(Mount Gongga)是中國四川省大蘇山和東提摩西山脈的最高峰。位於喜瑪拉雅山脈/喀喇崑崙山脈之外的最高峰位於千峰和第三高峰。這是世界第41高峰(當我們計算突出500米或更高的山峰時)。 [2]其餘的人口是一個神聖的高峰。 (wiki源)

Kořena最新的衛星電話信息:

Sms15:三點鐘我在Minya konky的頂端。因為我認為附近沒有什麼東西在附近沒有.Dosek帶著恩典旋轉了7.3。我們都在c5安排(除了我的冰柱,而不是在bc部署藥物hnatach指尖,我認為這將是好的)。 Zitra我們想要BC BC,但我們將得到他媽的駱駝,一些裂縫和一個下坡.Slavit將從下面.K + D


您可以在這裡按照facebook上的考察進度:
https://www.facebook.com/MinyaKonka2017
发表于 2018-1-2 08:17 显示全部帖子
本帖最后由 崇幄 于 2018-1-2 08:18 编辑

中文译文:
海拔7556米(来自西藏,中国贡嘎山,拼音GònggáShān)或明康佳(Minya Konka)或贡嘎山(Mount Gongga)是中国四川省大苏山和东提摩西山脉的最高峰。位于喜玛拉雅山脉/喀喇昆仑山脉之外的最高峰位于千峰和第三高峰。这是世界第41高峰(当我们计算突出500米或更高的山峰时)。[2]其余的人口是一个神圣的高峰。(wiki源)

Kořena最新的卫星电话信息:

Sms15:三点钟我在Minya konky的顶端。因为我认为附近没有什么东西在附近没有.Dosek带着恩典旋转了7.3。我们都在c5安排(除了我的冰柱,而不是在bc部署药物hnatach指尖,我认为这将是好的)。Zitra我们想要BC BC,但我们将得到***骆驼,一些裂缝和一个下坡.Slavit将从下面.K + D


您可以在这里按照facebook上的考察进度:
https://www.facebook.com/MinyaKonka2017
route_west_turn to_north-west-summit-2.jpg

下载积分: 驴币 -1


route_west_turn to_north-west-summit-3.jpg

下载积分: 驴币 -1




发表于 2018-1-2 08:19 显示全部帖子
这个贡嘎主峰solo,严冬冬生前一直想搞,但只是一直把放在计划里说说,他如果真想搞早就做了

我给ueli steck也建议过,可惜他不听,后来考虑到他主要是以速度取胜,对难度的把握上其实并非那么自信,而且第二次得金冰镐的攀登是否登顶现在已被广泛质疑,贡嘎之前的攀登历史可能把他吓到了
发表于 2018-1-2 08:23 显示全部帖子
1997年,日本队登顶成功,这是人们第一次沿东坡过北山脊翻越西北山脊攀登贡嘎山成功,同时也是第一次春季攀登贡嘎山成功。以下为原创线路图,8264首发
route_japan_east turn north turn north-west.JPG

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发表于 2018-1-2 08:26 显示全部帖子
1998年,韩国队三人沿危险的东北山脊第一次登顶贡嘎山,但有一人牺牲,之前几次登顶均是通过西北山脊完成,以下原创线路图,8264首发
route_korean_north_east_ridge.JPG

下载积分: 驴币 -1




发表于 2018-1-3 18:58 显示全部帖子
1932年传统线路,路线上只有冰壁、雪坡、冰裂缝,无须大岩壁技术、冰岩混合攀登技术,路线上无落石,但会遇到大风,所以只要冰雪经验丰富且抓到天气窗口即可搞定,就solo而言,也是可以做保护的,不是说费得两个人结组才能保护
1932-a.jpg

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1932-b.jpg

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发表于 2018-1-3 19:11 显示全部帖子
1957年中国队英文登山报告中的错误

Keeping the facts straight on Minya Konka. My comment has been
invited on the statement in the book The Conquest o f Minya Konka by
Shih Chan-Chun, Peking, 1959, which on page 53 reads as follows in
reference to our 1932 Minya Konka expedition. “They claimed that Moore
and Birdsall reached the summit where they planted the American flag
amidst a violent snowstorm and that flag was left there as evidence of
America’s success in distant conquest … It is regrettable that we were
unable to discover any traces left by the Americans on top.”
Mr. Shih Chan-Chun appears as the author, but the important fact
may well be that the English actually comes from the Chinese "translated
by Huang Kai-Ping”, as is stated on the overleaf of its second inside
page. This would seem to be significant. For Mr. Shih Chan-Chun, leader
of the 1957 Chinese climbing expedition, has elsewhere been quoted quite
differently on the subject of our 1932 expedition. "Minya Konka was
first climbed in 1932 by an American Expedition. Four American climbers
made the attempt, and two of them, Birdsall and Moore, reached the top
… Their illustrated book gives the very best detailed description of
Minya Konka.” (See A.A.J., 1958, 11:1, pp. 125-128, where the matter
is covered with yet further references.)
There are three basic mistakes in translator Huang Kai-Ping’s choice
of English about our expedition: 1. "Snowstorm” . The weather was clear;
there was no snowstorm during our visit to the summit of Minya Konka.
The visibility was unrestricted; we so reported, and our summit photographs
confirm. 2. "Flag left on top”. We left nothing whatever on top
and never implied having done so. We brought the Chinese flag we
carried with us back to the Academia Sinica in Nanking; and as is well
known to all visitors, returned the American flag to New York where it
has been hanging, framed, on the American Alpine Clubroom walls for
all the 32 years since. We left nothing because Minya Konka’s is a narrow,
névé-crowned summit without any approachable nearby rock outcrop. It is
strongly windblasted with an active working cornice (treacherous too)
overhanging to the east. This became evident through field glasses on
reconnaissance in advance of the climb. Small objects left on the summit
would not survive long. Only an overlapping summit panorama of photographs
would provide worthwhile evidence of our visit; and these we did
bring back. (See our book Men Against the Clouds.) 3. "America’s success
in distant conquest” . We climbed Minya Konka only with the kind
permission of the Chinese government at Nanking, carrying with us its
emblem (the only one then recognized by all the nations of the world,
including the League of Nations and the USSR) which, by prior agreement,
we flew first by itself before flying our own. The photograph of
this Chinese flag was later carried by the Chinese press as evidence that
the Republic of China was in control of our expedition — whose most
interesting scientific objective was to investigate and establish or permanently
put to rest recurring reports that Everest might be exceeded in
height by Mounts Amne Machin or Minya Konka.
One wishes there were some way that this message, together with our
congratulations and good wishes, might somehow be conveyed directly to
Mr. Shin Chan-Chun and his friends, without intervention of translators.
T er r is M o o r e
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