| Please read the English version in the second half of this article. 9/26 搭Siren公車1號從Guadalajara西緣到城市中心 9/27 Guadalajara城鎮中心一日遊 人不用每天活在現實中。Guadalajara直徑約3公里的歷史中心很美，完全不像一個開發中國家的面貌，除了眾多的宏偉建築，現代化的購物中心和餐廳，還有各種博物館，例如歷史藝術，還有另類的諸如museo de incredible(驚奇博物館)和museo de la tortula(殺人犯與刑具博物館)等。我原本計畫是搭乘大眾運輸穿越城市不作停留，但實際卻停留兩天。 建築物的歷史典故不在這裡一一介紹。也許大家比較好奇的是這個城市的現代面貌。路上有像台灣賣玉蘭花的擦車工，重點是這些擦車工很多是是年輕人，還有年輕人在便利商店門口幫人開門。這在人口紅利高，也就是年輕化的或青年失業人口多的國家並不算稀奇。但是有趣的是看似美好的城鎮中心的交通狀況。 這裡的車輛不只霸凌自行車，也霸凌行人。轉彎車輛被迫禮讓成群過馬路的行人，但是對於落單的毫不留情鑽過去。撞到一群人叫xx攻擊，撞到一個人叫那個人沒長眼睛不看車，是吧。而圓環好比楚河漢界，我看了一會兒決定不冒險到另一邊，若騎單車要怎麼通過呢？ 我住的旅館一晚300peso，約美金17元。相對城市中心，該簡易旅館週圍的像五分埔，有眾多小商家與地攤，白天不感覺有治安問題。而治安與住宿價格也是我決定一個地點是否值得多待的重要原因。 9/26 Guadalajara west city limit--city centre 9/27 visit the city Guadalajara historic city centre is amazing. And I found a budget hotel(300 peso, about17 usd) per night. The nearby area of the hotel is chocked of small business but I didn't feel any security concern to linger around in the daytime. The security and the price of accommodation are the key issues for me to decide whether to stay in a city for one more night. Back to to city tour. Other than the magnificent architecture, there are many conventional museums, museo de incredible(museum of incredible) and museo de la toutula(museum of torture and murderers) for example. But the appearance of the city nowadays is more appealing to me. The young people on the street did some non-technical job to struggle to earn a living, clean the windshield of vehicles stopped for the traffic light, open the door for convenience store customers for example. Just mentioned in the last article, demographic dividend is often accomplished by the higher unemployment young group. That's somewhat a side effect of booming economy in a developing country, and can be reduced but impossible to eliminate. Maybe the city have more room for improvement in driver's quality. Most drivers not only bully the cyclist, but the pedestrian. The turning drivers are “forced to” yield a group of pedestrians, but seldom stop for a LONE pedestrian. Maybe the reason for this is that a driver to run through a group defines an txxxxxxxx attack, but to run through a sole pedestrian is the fault of the poor guy: he should yield a car to cross the road, and the road is property of drivers. To cross the roundabout is another problem for me. Maybe to cycle through the city is beyond my tolerance. But at least there is public transport system for cyclist who isn't bold enough.  Guadalajara不知行人如何通過的圓環，也不知道如何抵達雕像下方 Guadalajara城市中心，多處有照片左側的解釋牌 Guadalajara城市中心，精華地段，於假日封街禁止機動車輛使用 Guadalajara城市中心 Guadalajara城市中心 Guadalajara城市中心 Guadalajara西側城門 |
| 9/28 Guadalajara--Tepatitlan 9/29 Tepatitlan--San Julian 9/30 San Julian--萊昂(Leon) Please read the English version in the second half of this article. 繼續旅程之前，這篇先談墨西哥的『壽司店』(sushi)和路上發現的創意。 Sushi似乎變成日本料理的代稱，分布廣泛，非僅限於大城市。像台灣夜市的平價花壽司到處可見，一般的墨西哥小吃店有時也會提供。而壽司店，或日本料理店，在大城市也許可以發現比較齊全的菜單，但是在小村落，壽司店一般只提供兩類東西，簡易花壽司和Tariyaki，就是鐵板炒肉和白飯，請參見照片，其實和這裡看到的中華料理沒啥兩樣。日本料理和中華料理在這裡都有與原產地不盡相同的詮釋，中華料理就是一堆油膩的炒菜，但是至少有青菜。 這段路我發現了兩個有趣的創意。 1. 在人生地不熟的地方搭公車總是很緊張會坐過頭。坐在公車上，公車站牌的站名常難以辨識。Guadalajara的Sitren路線，也就是唯一有車前單車架的公車(請參見上篇貼文照片)，每個站名都有對應的圖案，辨識圖案比瞪大眼睛欲看清站名容易多了，請參閱文末第一個網址。 2. 分隔島自行車道，省去另外興建自行車道的麻煩，固定距離還有天橋通往道路兩側。這個自行車道穿越整個萊昂市，綿延大約15公里。請參考文末第二個網址。 I will continue the journey in the next post. In this article, I will discuss the “sushi store” and some innovation. I found sushi in many places, even the local food stand. Only simple maki-sushi provided, no nigiri-sushi. The numerous “sushi” restaurants, can be found even in remote villages, means “a place provides Japanese cuisine”. These simple Japanese restaurants only provides two cuisine: maki-sushi and teriyaki(deep fried meat with vegetables and rice). The Chinese restaurant in Mexico I found until now, also has lots of deep fried dishes. So…,in Mexico, Japanese cuisine is characterized by DEEP FRIED “teriyaki”, and Chinese dishes are characterized by EVERYTHING DEEP FRIED. What's the difference? There were two innovation I found along the way. 1. It's difficult to see clear which the bus stop is on the moving bus. Sitren, the only bus system could carry a bicycle with a frontal rack in Guadalajara, has a symbol on every bus stop sign. It's easier to read the symbol than the small letters. Please refer to the first link in the last article. 2. The bicycle lane the the road island. Since there's an island, then no need to build another bicycle lane. Also cross bridges in every certain distance to connect the roadside. This bike lane was stretched about 15 km from rural areas of Leon city to downtown, descripted in the next second link. Leon城鎮中心，提款機前大排長龍 Leon城鎮中心 Leon都會區 Teptitlan城鎮中心，除了教堂和公園，還有常見的持槍刑警 路景 文章提到的『日式料理』Teriyaki，份量十足，與中華料理沒啥無不同。旁邊的芒果冰沙，在沒有果汁機下，是店員努力敲碎冰塊的成果 文章提到位於道路分隔島的自行車道，與連結道路兩端的天橋 文章提到位於道路分隔島的自行車道 |
| Please read the English version in the second half of this article. 10/1 里昂(Leon)--瓜納華托 10/2 瓜納華托(Guanajuato) 10/3 Guanajuato--San Miguel de Allende 不論什麼旅行交通工具，待在一個地方久了，總會發現一些有趣的事情。 住宿與飲食等是我之前文章比較少攝略的部分部分，這之後會陸續描述。繼續大家互相霸凌的旅程之前，先繼續聊一下墨西哥的飲食，之前談了日本料理，今天聊聊鳳梨。台灣水果不甜退費，那墨西哥呢。 從西部太平洋翻上中部平均海拔約1500-2000公尺的中央高地，會看到滿山滿谷的鳳梨田。路上的切片水果攤用塑膠杯盛裝各式水果，想當然爾賣得好的切好裝在杯中，賣不好的或不易保存的顧客要求再切以免浪費。裝在塑膠杯中的有西瓜，哈密瓜，和香瓜。木瓜和香蕉也是常見的水果。鳳梨則往往一整顆被冷落的放在一旁。 路邊常有切片pizza攤，一片(像賣場切片大小)15peso，很便宜但不好吃，pizza上的起司與其說是黃色黏稠不明物體，沒啥味道。我一開始以為pizza上的鳳梨是加工製品，後來了解到鳳梨是新鮮鳳梨，這裡新鮮鳳梨很便宜，但是沒啥味道。 身為玉米起源地，墨西哥的農業似乎餵飽有餘但精緻不足。試了幾次，鳳梨是所有常見水果的放牛班學生，總是沒啥味道，不會刮嘴也不會甜。香瓜與哈密瓜也會發生吃起來像大黃瓜的問題，但是水果攤總會準備辣醬和蕃茄醬等調味料，像之前相片的椰子白色木質部的吃法，顧客也樂得吃『辣炒哈密瓜』，西瓜總是放到過熟再賣避免悲劇，我沒看過有人吃『辣炒西瓜』，可能不對味吧。這我一開始覺得當地人吃重鹹，看來是誤會了。 回到旅程。離開里昂市仍有之前提到的『分隔島自行車道』，這是妥善利用城市空間的好點子，但是有很多改善空間。有分隔線的自行車道上有很多障礙物，除了燈柱和路樹，還有捷運化公車站。我很怕閃躲這些障礙物時會跌進車道。更糟的是，這裡的人不論駕駛汽車還是單車都素質不良。捷運化公車站旁的單車道往往縮成單線道，兩台單車可勉強擦身而過但是像我載個大包勢必得佔用整個車道，而來向自行車騎士從來不遵守『先到先過』原則，從來沒人讓我通過，短短的30公尺，我總是得等好一會兒才能找到空檔通過。這裡的交通重點不在於誰霸凌誰，而是誰找不到人霸凌。 瓜納華托就如同之前所述伴隨許多隧道的複雜立體道路系統，花了一段時間才弄清楚方位。 10/1 Leon--Guanajuato 10/2 Guanajuato 10/3 Guanajuato--San Miguel de Allende Whether transportation method to usage in the travel, one could always find something interesting after staying for a while. I will discuss more about foods and accommodation in the future post. Before going on the traffic condition of “everyone is bullying and be bullied”, I would like to share something that caught my eye, the sliced fruit stand. From the Pacific coastline, I climbed to the central highland in average 1500-2000 meters above sea level. I found pineapple field all over the hill and the valley. It's considered natural to not slice the unwelcoming fruit beforehand to reduce the cost and waste in the sliced fruit stand. Cantaloupe, watermelon, orient melon are most common fruits one can find to be sliced and carried in a plastic cup. The abundant pineapple usually left in the corner of the shelf, un-sliced. The pizza sliced stand sells cheap pizza slice(15 peso for a big slice) but not delicious to me. The cheese on the cheap pizza is simply tasteless, so do the pineapple dice, which I originally thought the pineapple on the pizza is processed but fresh in fact. As the birthplace of corn, agriculture in Mexico doesn't seem to have been improved. And it is strong possibility that the pineapple is tasteless(even doesn't irritate the oral mucosa) in the food stand in my experience. Cantaloupe, orient melon could be untasteful, but don't worry, the fruit stand has chili sauce and all the common seasoning to deal with this. Well, I didn't see anyone have “chili watermelon”. Instead, the fruit stand sells watermelon when overripe and being sweetened. Back to my travel from Leon city to Gualajuato. I cycled on the bike pathways on the island on the middle of the road as I did to enter the city. The bike path on the road island is a good idea to fully utilize the limited space in a city, but the bike path has large room for improvement. The path is narrow and with several barriers, such as lampposts, trees, and the metro bus stops. It's still passable to a cyclist without any load, but not me. And the divided bike path narrows down to single lane when bypassing the bus stop. It's still possible for two cyclists to pass on the single lane path, but someone like me has backpack on the racket would have to use the whole lane. But no cyclists willing to wait for me to pass the single lane section of no more than 30 meters. Drivers bully cyclists, clists bully each other, well done. As mentioned earlier, Guanajuato has streets of three dimensional and several underground tunnels. I spent some time to figure out my exact location after entering the center. San Miguel de Allende 全景 San Miguel de Allende市區主要道路，許多城鎮都有類似的『健康步道街道』，很難騎單車，更何況Allende的道路很陡峭 瓜納華托的指示牌，少見地有英文又有中文 里昂(Leon)市的單車道以該天橋為終點，連結分隔島自行車道與道路兩側，還是有很多單車騎士穿越馬路 令人疑惑的指示牌，San Miguel de Allende直走又往左，哪條才對 文章提到的水果攤範例，攝於瓜納華托 |
| 10/5 San Miguel de Allende--motel JSQ de ojos 10/6 JSQ--San Juan del Rio 10/7 San Juan del Rio--Jilotepec Please read the English version in the second half of this article. 悽慘的昨天，和比較不悽慘的今天。悽慘指數取決於發生的事，也取決於周邊的人。像今天遇到好人就比較不悽慘。這篇先談悽慘的昨天(10/7)。 容我跳過10/5-10/6兩天無趣的高速公路之旅。接近首都圈，變多的車道(達雙線各3線道加路肩之譜)代表更多的車流與路邊輪胎皮等垃圾。在昨天，爆胎而且流湯了。 內胎內的補胎液(會填補小洞避免漏氣)不堪敵人(路邊的鐵絲)持續猛烈的攻擊而陣亡。我無法理解不知為何補胎液之前運作良好卻在沒有破大洞的狀況下失效造成爆胎並由內胎流出。這次爆胎讓我學到3件事： 1.我在內胎發現至少4個破洞，和兩個外胎從外面摸不到的兩個刺。代表補胎液真的有用且重要，否則早就爆胎了。 2.我的策略『每10-15公里檢查外胎的鐵絲』是奏效的，避免越刺約深而無法從外胎外觀察覺。 3.不要在高速公路旁的停車場補胎，會被趕。 第三點是讓昨天的爆胎慘上加慘的原因之一。後來我放棄補那個吐出補胎液且千瘡百孔的內胎而直接使用新內胎。當時人車稀疏，而且我只有佔用一個停車格，壞人。 當下我很想搭車離開這個是非之高速公路，畢竟在沒有適當裝備下，之後只會一直爆胎。於是費盡千辛萬苦問到公車站的位置，踏上並購買往首都墨西哥城的車票，上了車仔細一想，無論如何都不能在毫無準備下進首都。住哪裡，怎麼去，怎麼離開都是問題。於是我在距離Tula最近的小鎮下車，當然提早下車是不退錢的。 這個小鎮只有一間精品旅館，當時已無空房。守衛一副看到流浪漢般，一直要把我輾走也不跟我說附近哪裡還有旅館。單人房620peso(約37美金)是貴但是我付的起好嗎。我知道以後台灣會比墨西哥窮但至少有台灣人最愛的好山好水好多文青咖啡廳，笨蛋。 最後我找到一間有wifi的咖啡廳，查到10公里外的小鎮Jilotepec有很多便宜旅館。10公里的怪路我得不斷問路人方向。抵達已超過6點，找到旅館，價格ok(350peso，約20美金)，疲憊的跳過檢查房間的必備過程。明天怎麼辦。 Miserable yesterday and not so miserable today. The “index of misery” is decided by the terrible things to happen and also the people to meet. I met kind people today so I felt not so bad even the misfortune. The next paragraph will go on the miserable yesterday.(10/7) Allowing me to skip the boring travel on the toll road. The toll road is getting broader(three lanes and the shoulder of each direction) as being close to the metropolitan of Mexico city. Which indicates the heavier traffic and more road trash. I got a severe flat tyre and lost the self-sealing liquid(to seal the small hole of the puncture to prevent the air pressure loss of the tube) in the tube. I can't figure out the reason of the mass air loss of the tube with self-sealing liquid inside, and the puncture was small enough for the liquid to function. But I learned three lessons from the misery. 1.The self-sealing liquid is useful and essential to cycle on the shoulder paved with thorns. I found at least FOUR HOLES on the tube and TWO THORNS inside the tyre. I must have been gotten a flat tyre without the liquid. 2.My strategy of “checking the tire and remove the thorns every 10-15 km “ worked well to prevent the thorns to deepen into the tyre and become unnoticeable from the appearance. 3.Don't fix the puncture on the parking space alongside the toll road. I was driven away. Lesson three made yesterday more miserable. I only occupied one parking lot and was sure that there were plenty of available parking spaces. I eventually gave up the fix the tube riddled with wounds and settled in a new one. I understood that the flat tyre will occur all over again without proper tyre and tube with self-sealing liquid inside. I spent lots of time and energy for the exact location of the bus station, acted on impulse to jump into the bus to Mexico city. But I shouldn't go to Mexico without knowing where to stay and how to leave the heavily populated city by bicycle after thinking twice. So I left the bus at the town closest to Tula. Unfortunately, the small town has only one decent hotel and the hotel was full. The hotel guard not only didn't answer my question of the location of another hotel nearby but acted like I was unwelcome there. 620 pesos(about 37USD) for a single room was expensive but I could still afford it once in awhile. I ended up in a coffee shop with wifi hotspot, figured out Jilotepec, another town 10 km from the decent hotel, has lots of budget hotels. I arrived a hotel in Jilotepec more than 6 pm. Paid the room fee (350pesos, about 20 USD) without routinely checking the room before paying. An exhausted day, how about tomorrow? 爆胎，白色液體是有內胎流出的補胎液 (會填補小洞避免漏氣爆胎)，不知為何之前運作良好卻在沒有破大洞的狀況下失效造成爆胎並由內胎流出 爆胎事發地點 當日旅館，房間在2樓，得抬車上去 六線道的高速公路 路邊的藍色指示牌，包含加油站餐廳等設施，居然連陶器行也有指示牌 文章提到的最後10公里怪路 |
| 10/8 Jilotepec--Tula 10/9 墨西哥城尋找內外胎一日遊 首先感謝位於Tula的單車店citybike店長Alberto，我才得以順利在墨西哥城找到內外胎。這在下篇文章提及，並非直覺的找自行車店買。 Tula距離墨西哥城中心約120公里，是著名的前阿茲提克考古遺址。但是在這裡我有更重要的任務。 10/8的爆胎，損失了一條內有補胎液可避免爆胎的內胎。一堆鐵絲的收費高速公路路肩，避免爆胎有三寶：有補胎液的內胎，防刺外胎，和自己騎乘的全神貫注。這裡我得把有補胎液的內胎和防刺外胎找出來。而Tula是最好的反攻基地，除了唯一一間自行車店外，我也可以赴京(墨西哥城)尋找勇士的下落。 10/9近正午來到Tula入住了一間廉價旅館後(墨國的廉價旅館多無check in時間限制，之後詳談)，確定鎮上的賣場沒有單車零件後，馬上搭公車到距離Tula約40公里的Wal-Mart找內外胎。這是週日，鎮上唯一一間自行車店公休，另外我覺得最好在依賴不知可靠與否的自行車店前，先自己找找看。美國的Wal-Mart有豐富的基本自行車用品，並有Bell廠牌的內含補胎液的內胎與防刺外胎。可惜的是，找了兩間，我幾乎確定墨西哥的Wal-Mart只有成車，沒賣內外胎。 我決定再到Wal-Mart鄰近的自行車店找，那是人口密集的城市，公車系統不如城際之間，相當複雜且公車站與公車先行牌都缺乏明確的資訊，甚至沒有公車站牌，只能由一群在路邊等車的民眾判斷那裡是公車站。但是貴人相助讓這個『搭公車到自行車店』的不可能任務變得十分容易。 善心的大媽一號在我等公車時主動攀談，她馬上擔任帶路的任務，沒她的幫助，我真的不知道搭哪班公車在哪裡下車。下車前她請與我同站下車的大媽二號幫我，而大媽二號幫我攔了計程車，還幫我付了車錢。 迷惑的公車之旅之後，等我的是一間狀似倒閉的自行車店。任務失敗但是至少因為貴人相助讓任務能夠完成。 10/8 Jilotepec--Tula 10/9 Mexico city tour, to find out the inner tube with self-sealing liquid and the tire First I have to thank for the owner Alberto of Citybike, the only bicycle store in Tula. Without his help, I can't easily get inner tube and anti-puncture tire in Mexico city, which is not instinctively to buy it from a bicycle shop. Tula,locates about 120 km from centre of Mexico city, is a famous archeology site for pre-Aztec culture. But I had something more important than visiting the ancient sculpture. I got a flat tire mentioned in last post at the same time lost a self-sealing tube, which is equally important as my wholly vigilance and anti-puncture tire to battle the road trash all over the toll road shoulder. I should make all-out effort looking for the tube and the tire. And Tula is the best base for doing that, where a professional bike shop locates and I could even take a bus to Mexico city and nearby Wal-Mart. After checking in a budget hotel and then understanding the supermarkets in town don't have bicycle accessories, I immediately went to Wal-Mart(about 40 km away) by bus for the tube and the tire(The only bike shop in Tula didn't open on Sunday and I didn't know if it is reliable). But after visiting two Wal-Mart, I realized that Wal-Mart in Mexico is not Wal-Mart in America, where I could always find the basic bike accessories. I found bicycles in Wal-Mart but not any compartment. I decided to go on my searching in the bicycle shop nearby. The Wal-Mart locates in the highly populated satellite city of Mexico city which has complicated bus system. And almost no information on the bus stop(there is even no bus stop but a group of people waiting for the bus). Luckily a kind mid-aged woman help me with the bus to take and the bus stop to depart. She asked another humble woman on the bus to help me with the exact location of the bike shop after taking off, who stopped a taxi for me and even paid the taxi fee. It seemed that the bike shop closed permanently. The busy day ending in vain was featured by two generous women, my best efforts, and another sleepless night due to anxiety. After the failure searching in Wal-Mart and a bicycle shop, it seemed fortune didn't like to smile at me. 有趣的『水溝』 遠方的工廠誇張的煙與路景 |
| Please read the English version in the second half of this article. 10/9 由Tula搭公車前往墨西哥城找防刺外胎 之前提到，發生在10/7的爆胎讓我得在考古遺址小鎮Tula尋找含補胎液的內胎與防刺外胎以應付未來的收費高速公路之旅。10/9早上Tula的唯一單車店citybike一開門，我馬上衝進店裡詢問。果不其然，店裡有成車與人身用品，但是零件不齊全。店長Alberto非常好心，他騎單車帶我到鎮上單車零件販賣店購買內胎，之後拿到單車店灌補胎液。他也告知我墨西哥城內的『單車零件一條街』，那裏幾乎可以找到所有零件，包括在Tula找不到的防刺外胎。 與我預期不同，在墨西哥找單車零件的最佳去處非單車店，而是單車零件專賣店。單車零件一條街位於捷運站Pino Suárez與Merced之間，位置明確，不用像昨天的大媽幫忙就能找到。雖然這裡有數十家單車零件專賣店，可是像路上眾多的小吃攤，零件甚至廠牌大同小異，幾乎只有一般外胎，無防刺外胎。我一家一家的造訪，總算在bicitodo找到防刺外胎。 資訊結論如下： 1.墨西哥單車店多有替內胎灌補胎液的服務，而單車零件一條街少數店家也有賣內含補胎液的內胎(說camara con liquido多數店家都懂)，一條約120peso。 2.墨西哥騎單車人數不算少，但是專業零件難尋。在專賣店買單車零件會比單車店齊全。 3.在單車零件一條街可能是唯一賣防刺外胎(llanta con kelvar或llanta anti pincharo)的店家為bicitodo，在這條街上有兩間分店，我購買的分店地址如下： Av. San Pablo No. 46-D, COL. Centro C.P. 06090 México D.F. 而我買到內含補胎液內胎的店家為Benotto，有很多分店，地址如下： Av. San Pablo No. 10, COL. Centro C.P. 06090 México D.F. 10/9 Went to Mexico city for the tube and the tire As mentioned earlier, after the flat tire happened on 10/7, I should find out the self-sealing tube and anti-puncture tire in Tula, a ancient town with an archeological site. I rushed to the only bike shop on 10/9 as soon as it was open. There was no tube and tire I needed in the shop, but the owner, Alberto was very helpful and took me to the bicycle spares shop for the tube and then filled the tube with self-sealing liquid in the shop. And he told me where I could find out the anti-puncture tire in Mexico city, which isn't sold in Tula. Not exactly the same as I expected, the best place for the bicycle spares are the speciality store, not a bicycle shop. In Mexico city, there is about 300 meters of “ street of bicycle spares speciality stores” between the metro station of Pino Suárez and Merced, not difficult to locate. Just like the numerous food stands on the street, these speciality stores have completed spares but lack of diversity in brands from store to store. Most of the stores only sold common tires, not a tire equipped with an anti puncture layer, Kelvar for example. I eventually found one in Bicitodo after almost visiting every store. The next was what I learned from the searching process. 1.The self-sealing liquid for the inner tube is not scarce in Mexico. I can usually ask a bicycle shop to fill the liquid into the tube. And there is a shop to sell the self-sealing tube for about 120 pesos, which itself has the liquid inside. 2. The bike shop has bicycles and accessories for the cyclist but often lacks of completed spares. The speciality stores are the better option for the spares. 3.I could only find out the anti-puncture tire in Bicitodo store on the “street of bicycle spares speciality stores”, which the address is: Av. San Pablo No. 46-D, COL. Centro C.P. 06090 México D.F. And the next address is the branch store of Benotto where I found out the self-sealing tube: Av. San Pablo No. 10, COL. Centro C.P. 06090 México D.F. Tula單車店與業主 Tula的單車零件專門店 墨西哥城單車零件一條街，我買到防刺外胎的店 墨西哥城單車零件一條街 墨西哥城單車零件一條街的店家內部 墨西哥城單車零件一條街的店家內部 我購得的防刺外胎Bontrager hard case lite與中國廠牌CST含補胎液的內胎 我購得的防刺外胎與含補胎液的內胎，還有我之前嘗試最後放棄修補的內胎 |
| Please read the English version in the second half of this article. 10/9 由Tula搭公車前往墨西哥城找防刺外胎 之前提到，發生在10/7的爆胎讓我得在考古遺址小鎮Tula尋找含補胎液的內胎與防刺外胎以應付未來的收費高速公路之旅。10/9早上Tula的唯一單車店citybike一開門，我馬上衝進店裡詢問。果不其然，店裡有成車與人身用品，但是零件不齊全。店長Alberto非常好心，他騎單車帶我到鎮上單車零件販賣店購買內胎，之後拿到單車店灌補胎液。他也告知我墨西哥城內的『單車零件一條街』，那裏幾乎可以找到所有零件，包括在Tula找不到的防刺外胎。 與我預期不同，在墨西哥找單車零件的最佳去處非單車店，而是單車零件專賣店。單車零件一條街位於捷運站Pino Suárez與Merced之間，位置明確，不用像昨天的大媽幫忙就能找到。雖然這裡有數十家單車零件專賣店，可是像路上眾多的小吃攤，零件甚至廠牌大同小異，幾乎只有一般外胎，無防刺外胎。我一家一家的造訪，總算在bicitodo找到防刺外胎。 資訊結論如下： 1.墨西哥單車店多有替內胎灌補胎液的服務，而單車零件一條街少數店家也有賣內含補胎液的內胎(說camara con liquido多數店家都懂)，一條約120peso。 2.墨西哥騎單車人數不算少，但是專業零件難尋。在專賣店買單車零件會比單車店齊全。 3.在單車零件一條街可能是唯一賣防刺外胎(llanta con kelvar或llanta anti pincharo)的店家為bicitodo，在這條街上有兩間分店，我購買的分店地址如下： Av. San Pablo No. 46-D, COL. Centro C.P. 06090 México D.F. 而我買到內含補胎液內胎的店家為Benotto，有很多分店，地址如下： Av. San Pablo No. 10, COL. Centro C.P. 06090 México D.F. 10/9 Went to Mexico city for the tube and the tire As mentioned earlier, after the flat tire happened on 10/7, I should find out the self-sealing tube and anti-puncture tire in Tula, a ancient town with an archeological site. I rushed to the only bike shop on 10/9 as soon as it was open. There was no tube and tire I needed in the shop, but the owner, Alberto was very helpful and took me to the bicycle spares shop for the tube and then filled the tube with self-sealing liquid in the shop. And he told me where I could find out the anti-puncture tire in Mexico city, which isn't sold in Tula. Not exactly the same as I expected, the best place for the bicycle spares are the speciality store, not a bicycle shop. In Mexico city, there is about 300 meters of “ street of bicycle spares speciality stores” between the metro station of Pino Suárez and Merced, not difficult to locate. Just like the numerous food stands on the street, these speciality stores have completed spares but lack of diversity in brands from store to store. Most of the stores only sold common tires, not a tire equipped with an anti puncture layer, Kelvar for example. I eventually found one in Bicitodo after almost visiting every store. The next was what I learned from the searching process. 1.The self-sealing liquid for the inner tube is not scarce in Mexico. I can usually ask a bicycle shop to fill the liquid into the tube. And there is a shop to sell the self-sealing tube for about 120 pesos, which itself has the liquid inside. 2. The bike shop has bicycles and accessories for the cyclist but often lacks of completed spares. The speciality stores are the better option for the spares. 3.I could only find out the anti-puncture tire in Bicitodo store on the “street of bicycle spares speciality stores”, which the address is: Av. San Pablo No. 46-D, COL. Centro C.P. 06090 México D.F. And the next address is the branch store of Benotto where I found out the self-sealing tube: Av. San Pablo No. 10, COL. Centro C.P. 06090 México D.F. Tula單車店與業主 Tula的單車零件專門店 墨西哥城單車零件一條街，我買到防刺外胎的店 墨西哥城單車零件一條街 墨西哥城單車零件一條街的店家內部 墨西哥城單車零件一條街的店家內部 我購得的防刺外胎Bontrager hard case lite與中國廠牌CST含補胎液的內胎 我購得的防刺外胎與含補胎液的內胎，還有我之前嘗試最後放棄修補的內胎 |
| Please read the English version in the second half of this article. 10/12 Tula--鄉間小路亂鑽--Tecamac 繼續故事前，我想由一個汽車駕駛的告白來平衡說法。 路上有很多人騎單車是未開放國家的標準街頭景象，也是已開發國家的標準街頭景象。墨西哥大城市對發展單車運動不遺餘力，墨西哥城中心每週日部分封路僅限非機動車輛使用(單車、行人，與滑板等)。但是，我曾看到一篇報導寫到，一位墨西哥城含淚控訴自行車騎士，本來他通勤時間只要1小時，但是為了閃躲日益增多的在路上亂鑽自行車騎士，他的通勤時間變成至少1個半小時。 我還沒去過墨西哥城，對以上說法採保留態度，因為就我觀察，道路三寶之首為colectivo，也就是私人廂型公車，非自行車。而在Tula街頭，交通狀況衍生出讓我感動的景象。 含尋找單車零件，我在Tula共待了4天4夜。每天總會經過數個繁忙路口。有時有警察指揮，一片和樂融融。但多數路口只有紅綠燈沒人指揮，行人得自立自強。 並不是所有轉彎車輛都不禮讓，但是禮讓與否並不會寫在擋風玻璃上。於是行人用跑的過馬路，加上這裡的行人不會只在斑馬線過馬路，於是在街上會看到許多人為了自己的生命跑來跑去，為了生命奮鬥。 回到我的旅程。在收費高速公路騎車並不討喜，除了收費高速公路的設計主要為最短距離，因此高低起伏往往較一般公路多。另一方面，貨車不只會噴輪胎皮和尖銳鐵線，還會噴鶴頂紅。在Tula的4天除了為了幫單車裝防爆盾甲，也讓自己調養，避免氣血攻心。 而往Tecamac看似有許多小路可鑽，當然這些小路上指標闕如，但是路上至少有3個村落，我可以一路包打聽。除了問路，有太陽時看太陽，沒太陽時看地上的輪胎印，我幸運的沒有迷路，成為墨西哥鄉野傳奇。 接下來是墨西哥的必遊景點，所有旅行社都會安排的日月金字塔(Teotihuacan)。 10/12 Tula--through toll way and backup roads--Tecamac Before going on, I could like to balance the story by a driver's statement. It seems that the street dominated by the bicycle rather than the motorized vehicle is the signature of underdeveloped countries but developed countries. Lots of concerned authorities of populated cities in Mexico are making efforts to promote bicycles as the means of transportation, some of the streets in the center of Mexico city even closed to motorized vehicles on Sundays. But I read a report about a car commuter spending much more time on road than before because he has to dodge more and more cyclists who tend to weave in and out the lanes. I still don't have the chance to Mexico city and I reserve my comments. From my observation, the most resource of chaos street is colectivo, or the private van bus, not the bicycle. And in Tula, I saw something interesting and even “touching”. I stayed in Tula for 4 nights, and I had many chances to go through busy intersections. Sometimes a police directs the traffic but most of time the pedestrian has to cross the road on the own. Not every turing motorist doesn't yield, but I can't know if the motorist stops for pedestrian crossing on the windshield. So the pedestrian simply run across the street. And pedestrians don't only cross on the crosswalk but everywhere. So I could find that everyone was running like a hell on every corner of the street, for the safety and own life. The scenery of running for the life is not only in Tula and could almost be found everywhere. Back to my journey, there are many shortcomings of cycling on the toll road, the sharp wire is only one of them. The toll road is more straightforward but also hilly. And the truck usually emissions noxious exhaust. I equipped my bicycle with better tire at the same time to nurse myself in Tula for not being poisoned to some other places. There are many backup roads to Tecamac, but lacking of the direction signpost. I asked around for the correct way to go in three village along the road and also judged the direction by the sun and the tire mark. It was interesting and I was lucky to not get lost. I wil visit the prestigious sun and moon pyramid(Teotihuacan) for the next. 第一個該轉彎路口，沒有指標 路景，墨西哥中部高地雨量不豐沛，常看到仙人掌 路景，整片芒花 難得有指標 一個村落的中心 正路得穿越海盜船與摩天輪 最後進入都市區域，施工地區變成自行車專用道，正路中央有小販 |
| Please read the English version in the second half of this article.. 10/13 Tecamac--Teotihuancan，參觀亡靈大道日月金字塔 Teotihuacan文明起始於西元前200年左右，早於之前提到的Tula文明。最盛時期的人口可高達20萬人，如今遺留的古蹟只剩城鎮中心。因為西班牙人誤以為這些龐大成群的金字塔為陵墓，而有亡靈大道(calle de los Muertos)之稱，但實際上多為祭祀使用。金字塔裡有一些曆法相關的意義，太陽金字塔稍微偏向4月29日與8月12日的日落水平點西北邊，而8月12日代表馬雅曆法的起始，也有許多天文方面的觀測資訊是從這邊得知的。 太陽金字塔是全世界第三大的金字塔，基座約225公尺，高約64公尺，塔頂的祭壇已經消失。而20世紀初的不當整治工程是另一場災難，目前2公里的亡靈大道的遺跡有許多如水泥等現代建材補強，已非原樣。 這個龐大的建物引發許多『外星人假說』，當然我們不能完全否認這個可能性。但是多數現象可以用科學解釋。不符合人體工學的石階設計是陡峭金字塔設計的必然產物，非為了長腿外星人；而這類用岩石堆砌的金字塔不需要高超工藝，但是絕對勞力密集。所以更適合的問題也許是『如何說服群眾蓋金字塔』非『怎麼蓋金字塔』，這個問題永遠沒有正確答案。但是除了脅迫，專制政體領導階層鞏固地位或民主政體被選入政體重要職位的方法之一是告訴群眾：『那裡有敵人(無論真的有敵人與否)，而我是唯一可以帶領大家抵抗的人物』，之後領導階層的作為是否得當已不再重要，因為抵抗敵人是首要任務，相信大家可以從周遭找到許多實例。這個敵人可以有許多化身，可能是一群不不受歡迎的群體，某類產業，或是被貼上錯誤標籤的大惡人等。 10/13 Tecamac--Teotihuacan, visit boulevard of death and pyramids Teotihuacan is an Mesoamerican city originated from about 200 AD, earlier than Tula, another ancient civilization near Mexico city. It is believed that there was about 200 thousand populations in the period of prosperity. But only the center buildings are left. Spans mistakenly thought the pyramids were built to tombs. So the pyramid, which was built mainly for religious ceremonies, is well-known as the name of boulevard of death(Calle de los Muetos). The pyramids were also built in reference to the science calendar. Please refer to the Wikipedia for detailed information. The pyramid of the sun is the third largest pyramid in the world, with the base of 225 meters in width and 64 meters in height. The altar on the top no longer exists. The recovery constructing in the early 20 centre was proved a disaster and lots of strengthened work is still in process, so the pyramids are different from the original type. Some “hypothesis of aliens” arises around the magnificent building. Of course we can't totally deny the possibility, but there's usually a scientific explanation for the mystery. The tall stairs was more possible built as the result of the steeping pyramid, not for a long-feet aliens. To pile the stones to a pyramid doesn't seem to need a superb technique, although it's highly labor-densed without machinery. So the more appropriate question here is “ how to mobilize thousands of people to dedicate the constitution” instead of “ how to build the pyramid”. We could never know the exact answer to the question. But other than subtling, one of the best ways to consolidate the leadership in monopoly or to be elected to high position in the governorship in democracy is to tell the people “there's an enemy(opposing or real in existence) and I am the only one to lead anyone to fight against the foe”. And to dismay intruders is much important than the decision of the leadership in this case. There are many examples in modern politics. The enemy could be a group of unwelcoming people, a kind of industry, or some people mistakenly labeled as big bad guys. eotehuacan亡靈大道，前為月亮金字塔 Teotehuacan壁畫山貓 Teotehuacan的templo (神廟)de Quetzalcóatl Teotehuacan太陽金字塔 Teotehuacan亡靈大道，右為太陽金字塔，前為月亮金字塔 Teotehuacan由太陽金字塔眺望亡靈大道 Teotehuacan由月亮金字塔眺望亡靈大道 Teotehuacan由月亮金字塔眺望亡靈大道 Teotehuacan住宅遺址 |
| Please read the English version in the second half of this article. 10/14 Teotihuacan--Texcoco de Mora，參觀Texcotzingo遺址 Texcotzingo位於Texcoco近郊，而Texcoco是阿茲提克時期重要的都市，距離墨西哥城約30公里。這是由15世紀在西班牙統治前的統治者Nezahualcoyotl興建的御花園，也是重要的宗教祭祀場所。建物的興建參考阿茲提克文明的傳說，而整個御花園最重要的遺跡是完善的灌溉系統，包含數個精雕細琢的儲水槽。 由Texcoco中心出發，搭乘往Tlaminca的colectivo(廂型公車)，在Tlaminca村落詢問zona archeological(古蹟地區)下車後，我開始與入口玩綠野先蹤，所有村民都表示遺址在山丘上，可是我實在找不到上山丘的路徑，費時近超過半小時才在巷弄間找到入口。這不是有名的景點，雜草叢生的入口讓我懷疑是否應攜帶開山刀和鐵鏟。由此到連結遺址的路徑約20分鐘路程。相對而言，連結數個遺址的路徑十分清晰寬敞。而這個遺址在被列入保護前受到許多破壞，包含現代化的塗鴉藝術，且並非所有遺址都以挖掘出土。 10/14 Teotihuacan--Texcoco de Mora, visit Texcotzingo historic site Texcotzinco locates in the suburbs of Texcoco, which was an important city in Aztec era and about 30 km from Mexico city. Texcotzinco, built by Nezahualcoyotl, a ruler of the area before the Hispanic colonization, was an imperial garden and the sacred place. The whole construction was built according to the Aztec myth, and the most important remains are the waterways and connecting pools. Started off from Texcoco centre, I took the colective(the private van bus) to village Tlaminca, and departed in the “zona archeological”. The entrance was near where I departed but very difficult to locate. I spent more than half hour to look for the entrance, which is choked with weeds. The historic remains are about 20 mins away, near the top of the hill. And compared to the trail from the entrance to the connection trail, the trail connects the historic remains was well maintained and cleared up. The remains are sabotaged before it was enlisted in sites of protection. I could find the graffiti on the sculpture garden and the walls of the pools. There are still large part of the remains underground and wait for discovery. Texcotzingo的儲水槽El bano de la Reina(Reina的洗澡池)和塗鴉 Texcotzingo的儲水槽El bano del Rey(Rey的洗澡池) Texcotzingo水道遺址與步道 Texcotzingo遺址入口 階梯式的山頂花園遺址 由遺址眺望Texcoco市 |
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