| Please read the English version in the second half of this article. 10/15 由Texcoco搭公車往返墨西哥城 墨西哥有許多有趣而充滿活力的特色，除了文化、飲食，週末的派對，除了市中心和旅遊區，重要路口也會有人在唱唱跳跳或耍表演特技；到處都有人在熱吻，尤其是學生和年輕人；塞車沒關係，音樂轉到最大聲分散焦慮與想霸凌行人的歪主意。讓我驚嘆的除了電視總是有土耳其連續劇台，還有她的博物館，不論城鎮規模，總有一間中心大教堂與公園，還有一間規模不一的博物館，館內除了基本的歷史地理文化，甚至還有當代藝術家的個展。 在大城市中則會有一些另類的博物館，例如之前在Guadalajara的museo de incredible(驚奇博物館)和museo de la tortula(殺人犯與刑具博物館)。而在市中心被列為世界文化遺產(UNESCO)的墨西哥城也不落人後，除了必訪的正常的人類學博物館(Museo national de andropologia。內有墨西哥各現代與過去民族文化與各歷史考古遺址的介紹，仔細逛需要至少半天的時間)，另類而且必遊的莫屬位於市中心的記憶與寬容博物館(meseo memoria y tolerancia)。 這間博物館以種族清洗的歷史為主軸，除了納粹，也介紹發生在1994年發生在盧安達的圖西人屠殺與較罕為人知發生在1982年的瓜地馬拉Dos Erres massacre等，內容豐富。而在地球的另一邊能看到這些歷史，十分特別。 這些博物館多缺乏英語解說，但就我觀察，這些博物館除了促進觀光發展(不管看懂與否，觀光客多趨之若鶩)，也對團結的民族性養成有莫大助益，不會像台灣人嘴巴說獨立，雙腳走統一。也許那天台灣會有外國人感興趣的經濟博物館，兩岸關係博物館，甚至中國近代史博物館，只可惜相關單位只想賣翠玉白菜和拍馬屁，我想過不了幾年，蔡奮館將會風光成立。 10/15 Visit Mexico city, took the bus from Texcoco Mexico is an amazing country to me. The culture and the food, the festival on the weekend, the Turkish drama on the TV, and also the museum. And also seems a country of energy. I found buskers in almost every central park and major road intersections. People, especially teeagers and youngsters, kiss passionately in the park, on the metro, and everywhere. And drivers turn the music out loud when in the traffic jam to distract themselves. Back to the discussion of the museum, which can be found in almost every towns and cities along with a magnificent church and a hilarious park. Other than the normal type, historic and cultural museum for example, there are many alternative ones in big cities, museum of incredible(museo de incredible) and museum of torture(museo de la tortula) in Guadalajara for instance. In Mexico city, other than the must-see museo national de andropologia, which introduces the cultures of every region and ethics, and archeological findings in Mexico. Museum of memory and tolerance is another must-visit(meseo memoria y tolerancia). The museum tells us about the history of ethics cleaning. Other than the one happened in the early 20 century in German, there are also about the ethics cleaning happened in 1994 in Rwanda and Dos Erres massacre in 1982 in Guatemala. Very special to learn these history in a third party country. Everything is fine in these museum except of the lacking of English explanation board. From my observation, these museum promote the tourism and also enhance the unity of the nation. Maybe there will be a economic development museum and even the museum of cross-strait relationship and China modern history in Taiwan, which are appealing to foreigner tourist. But that's only “maybe” because authorities concerns of Taiwan tourism are conservative and inflexible. Welcome to Taiwan, the night market and the modern shopping malls are waiting for you.  墨西哥城，逢週日部分市中心道路對機動車輛封閉 墨西哥城路邊攤與乖乖坐一排的用餐民眾 墨西哥城人類學博物館仿真千古壁畫 墨西哥城人類學博物館千年石雕聚集廳 墨西哥城塗鴉藝術者 墨西哥城藝術宮（Palacio de Bellas Artes）是墨西哥最重要的文化中心，位於墨西哥城歷史中心的西側。 墨西哥城藝術宮內部 墨西哥城中心的『阿茲提克勇士』，在其他角落還有蝙蝠俠蜘蛛人米奇老鼠等等 墨西哥城主教座堂 墨西哥城主教座堂 |
| Please read the English version in the second half of this article. 10/15 從Texcoco往返墨西哥城 10/16 Texcoco--Chalco de Diaz 10/17 Chalco de Diaz--San Martin Texmelucan 繞完了墨西哥城衛星都市，往東南部的大城市Puebla有至少3條路可選。我選擇唯一有收費高速公路(也就是唯一有路肩公路)，也是上升海拔最多的(2200公尺到3200公尺)。但是平均坡度僅約3.5%，不算太折騰。我在這段路上看到兩個運動自行車騎士，代表當地人對沒有路肩的一般高速公路也是敬而遠之。我雖然沒有看到冒煙的Popocatepetl火山，但是沿路風景十分壯麗，當然還是有許多惱人的尖銳鐵絲。而事實上，我拔鐵絲時，兩次聽到漏氣聲，還有輪胎『口吐白沫(補胎液)』，但是今天補胎液運作正常，看來破洞被補起來了，一天兩次『爆胎』，真是恐怖而且令人擔心。 10/15 round trip to Mexico city, stayed in Texcoco 10/16 Texcoco--Chalco de Diaz 10/17 Chalco de Diaz--San Martin Texmelucan After the travel through satellite cities of Mexico city, I kept my journey to Puebla city. There are at least three major highway to Puebla, and I chose the only toll highway, which has the wide shoulder and has the most elevation change(2200 meters to 3200 meters). The slope is gently(about 3.5% in average) and not so demanding to me, although the road trashes still had large existence. I saw two sporting cyclists on this section and it seemed the locals were like me to try to avoid the shoulderless freeway. I didn't see the smoking volcano of Popocatepetl, but the scenery, the colorful fields and ranches, the village building lays dense on the hill, were still quite rewarding. But I experience at least two "leaking events" today. I heard the air escape from the tube when removing the wire twice. But luckily the self-sealing liquid worked well today and the leaking events didn't evolve into flat tires. But two small holes in the tube just in one day is quite terrible and worrisome. 當地自行車騎士與底下的Puebla市區 路景，Santa Rita Tlahuapan村 路景，寒溪村(Frio Rio) 路景，山頂餐廳群 路景，與牧羊人 路景，與自行車運動騎士 路景 路景 路景 |
| Please read the English version in the second half of this article. Cholula是墨西哥其中一個最早有人定居的村落，Olmec文明於約公元前1500年至公元400年在此蓬勃發展。而大約在公元前300年，一個供奉羽蛇神Quetzalcoatl的金字塔出現在這裡，之後一代又一代的古印第安人用燒結的陶土塊(這裡缺乏石料)不斷的頂樓加蓋，建成了世界容積最大的金字塔。在公元10 世紀左右，這個金字塔被加建成一個底部達450平方公尺，高約50公尺的復式祭壇結構，於12世紀因未知原因被荒廢。這些極易風化與極適合植物生長的陶土，讓它在西班牙殖民時期成為一座草木茂盛的土丘，逃過破壞的魔掌。西班牙人也在這座土丘上方建造聖堂(Virgin de los Remedios)，目的之一是統一當地人的信仰以穩固統治基礎。但因為地震影響，該聖堂目前暫停遊客觀光。 而Cholula是教堂密度相當高的小鎮，這是因為西班牙人經過這裡時，統治阿茲特克的武士在這設下埋伏，但因為Tlaxcala人向西班牙人告密，不但功敗垂成Cholula還被殺了約6000人。而Tlaxcala人告密的獎賞是Cholula隨便你搶。之後西班牙首領Hernán Cortés可能良心不安，發誓每天都要在這裡建一座教堂，共興建一年，現在這裡有39座教堂。 目前Cholula不只為歷史重鎮，也成為墨西哥第四大城，人口約1.5百萬Puebla的衛星城市。這個谷地由數座火山圍成，其中墨西哥第二高峰5452公尺太的Popocatepetl火山在1999年睡醒了，天氣好可以看到它在吐煙。它與位於北側的Iztaccihuatl火山相傳為一對恩愛夫妻，女方聽到男方戰死沙場的消息悲慟而相繼過世，後來成為兩座幾乎全年山頂被白雪覆蓋的高峰。這兩座火山衍生的山稜也成為墨西哥城與Puebla市的天然屏障。 Cholula is one of the most ancient towns in Mexico. Olmec people ruled here from around 1500 BC to 400 AD. The pyramid stood up here in about 300 BC. after further construction with clay blocks(this area was short of rock material) by generations of indigenous people, the pyramid became the largest complex altar pyramid(volume wise) in the world, with about 450 meters in width and 50 meters in height in 10th century. The component of clay blocks which is vulnerable to erosion and highly fertility made the pyramid a greenery hill, and managed to escape the clutches of Spanish. Spanish built sanctuary of Virgin de los Remedios to replace the cult of the ancient god. The sanctuary is closed to tourists temporarily. Cholula is the town of highly dense with Catholic churches. Spanish army won here by the help of informer of Tlaxcala, who rioted Cholula after Spanish occupation. About 6000 people lost their lives in the battle, and Hernán Cortés, the leader of Spanish corp, ordered to build the church every single day of a year. There are 39 churches in Cholula now. Cholula is not only a historic site but also serves as a satellite city of Puebla, the 4th large city in Mexico which accommodates about 1.5 million people in the metropolitan area. Puebla locates in the valley surrounded by volcanos. Among the volcanos, Popocatepetl, 5452 meters and the second highest peak in Mexico, came to live in 1999, and we can see the smoking volcanos in many corners of Puebla with a clear sky. Legend says Popocatepetl and another volcano Iztaccihuatl are a couple devoted to each other, so when the mule sent the message of the husband died in the battlefield, the wife were so consolidate and lost her life in the second morning. The two volcanos capped with snow then arose from the horizon, as seemed the couple to guard the valley. The ridge extended from the volcanos also acts the natural barrier of Puebla and Mexico city. 世界容積最大金字塔grand Cholula，祭壇(altar)，當時可能有將兒童活祭 世界容積最大金字塔grand Cholula，祭壇(altar)，估計有9公尺高，80公尺寬 世界容積最大金字塔grand Cholula，深邃的結構 世界容積最大金字塔grand Cholula和塔頂後來西班牙人興建的聖殿Virgin de is Remedios 世界容積最大金字塔grand Cholula和塔頂後來西班牙人興建的聖殿Virgin de is Remedios 世界容積最大金字塔grand Cholula和塔頂後來西班牙人興建的聖殿Virgin de is Remedios 這不是山丘，是金字塔 |
| 10/19.Cholula--Puebla Please read the English version in the second half of this article. Cholula有世界容積最大的金字塔，到Puebla的路程有嘆為觀止的自行車道。 Ciclovias，是沿著都會區人口約1.5百萬的Puebla南緣的190公路的自行車專用道，並延伸出數條往城市中心的自行車道網，請參見以下網址。其中位於Puebla字旁邊的紅線是歷史中心的自行車道。 https://www.google.com.mx/url… 這些自行車道有各種不同的設計，如與道路共享或有分隔的平面專用道等。其中最特別的設計莫過於地圖南邊紅色位於190號一般高速公路的『自行車道高速公路。』 這段起於Cholula旅遊輕軌站(Cholula tourist train station，一天僅3-4班)，終於Puebla東南方的Park Centenario Laguna de Chapulco18公里的自行車道類似之前萊昂(Leon)市分隔島自行車道的設計，不同的是這裡的有圍籬，高架設計跨越複雜的交叉路口，甚至還有交流道。這裏是個人認為除了歷史中心之外的必遊景點(這個城市有許多公共單車租借站)。除了複雜的車道設計(至少我還沒在其他國家看過)，另外高架路段讓整個城市風光一覽無遺，包含在吐煙的Popocatepetl火山與位於北側的Iztaccihuatl休火山。唯一缺點是這些自行車道缺乏指標，沿路也沒看到半張地圖。我的資訊來源於Cholula的旅遊輕軌站，知道關鍵字後再上網查詢。 A pyramid of largest volume of the world in Cholula. And one of the most amazing bike path I had seen from Cholula to Puebla center, the fourth largest city in Mexico. Named to ciclovias, the main bike path starts from Cholula tourist train station(the train is targeted to tourists to travel from Puebla historic centre and Cholula pyramid), along with the busy highway 190 which skirts the Puebla south city limit, to Park Centenario Laguna de Chapulco in southeast of Puebla, which is marked in red(the south section) in the following map: https://www.google.com.mx/url… The main path extends several side paths, and one of them leads to the center. The central bike paths(next to “Puebla”) are also marked in red on the map. There are several designs for the path, the on-road bike lane and off-road separating path for example. The most astonishing one is the main path which alongside the highway 190. This path, also an “island bike path” similar to The bike path in Leon, but has fences and features the high structure to pass the complex intersections which provides the cyclist a wonderful view of the city and the volcanoes surrounded. This path even has interchange to connect to the other bike path. One of the best selling point is the smoking volcano of Popocatepetl and the dormant Iztaccihuatl. It seems to me that the bike path is another must-see other than the historic centre. Although the map and the direction signpost are scarce along the path. 過路口，人自行車不同號誌，綠燈時行人會比自行車的號誌早5秒變紅燈(用走的比較慢嗎) 交流道設計(右)，坡度經過設計不會太陡 文章介紹的自行車道和另一座火山。墨西哥是發展中國家之中太陽能發展最迅速的 文章介紹的自行車道與Puebla市容，右側一中間有虛線的是自行車道，左邊是行人步道 由自行車道望小冒煙的Popocatepetl火山(左)與位於北側的Iztaccihuatl(右)，路中間分隔車道為公車專用道 自行車道架高與交流道設計 |
| Please read the English version in the second half of this article. 在Puebla市 10/19 下午搭乘市區導覽旅遊車 10/20 參觀Cuexcomate火山與Amparo博物館 10/21 參觀不干涉博物館(museo de la no intervencion fuete de Loreto)，Angelópolis mall 我的市區行程非常鬆散，這得拜城市混亂的公車系統。以私人公車為主的系統完全沒有編號與路線圖，只有在擋風玻璃上的幾個前往地名，我得在公車飛速駛進的瞬間反應過來這些地名連結的路線上是否有我的目的地，根本就是不可能的任務。於是我使用『無窮逼近法』，就是不管三七二十一，隨便選一般公車搭，待其偏離我預期路線後，下車走到朝向我目的地的大馬路，再選一班公車搭……。結果光是從不干涉博物館到約7-8公里遠的Angelópolis mall就花費約1小時，換了3班公車。計程車是最佳解，不過一個人搭並不划算。而騎單車去又有停放問題。 Puebla於1531年建立，是西班牙為了在Veracruz港與墨西哥城（México）之間建立的休息處。殖民時期為重要的銀產地。在起源於墨西哥政府拒絕向債權國支付利息的法國第二次入侵墨西哥，這場長達7年的戰爭(1861-1867)，法軍在1862年5月5日首此在此嚐到失敗(雖然之後Puebla仍被佔領)，其中戰略地位重要的fort Loreto(Loreto堡壘)已被裝置成不干涉博物館。這場戰役由Ignacio Zaragoza率領以寡敵眾，也是它國對墨西哥的最後一場侵略，因此5月5日為Puebla與附近地區的重要節日，也有以5月5日命名的街道(5 de mayo)。後來Puebla也成為1910年墨西哥革命的起源地。 目前這個城市被列為世界文化遺產(UNESCO)，也是墨西哥最富裕的區域之一。這裡除了宏偉的殖民建築，巨大的貧富差距一覽無遺。在主要的購物城Angelópolis mall中有兩條美食街：平價街與高貴街。後者動輒20美金的套餐(平日有折扣)在假日高鵬滿座。相對而言，弱勢族群賺錢的方式千招百出，在餐廳唱歌演奏，在重要路口擦擋風玻璃表演丟籃球，上公車賣花生糖，見怪不怪。 但是，能獲得多少獎賞的重要因素之一是金主的口袋深度，畢竟在短暫時間很難看出表演者的真正實力。高級餐廳多半有本身樂隊，與時尚的購物中心如Angelópolis一般，禁止任意人士入內乞討，有錢人開私家轎車，並不經常使用公車。在墨西哥的貧富差距衍生出幾乎沒有交集的生活圈之下，窮人很難靠賣命演出取得高報酬，甚至在數場如地震的自然災害中，窮人總是受害最深，除了古蹟能活過一時代表它應該能活得過一世，高強度的建築也代表高售價與高不可攀。 目前Puebla是為旅遊配套最近的城市之一。著名的博物館Amparo(展示各殖民前文化的文物)與市區導覽旅遊車都有英語解說。城市歷史中心旁也有旅遊資訊中心。 In Puebla 10/19 afternoon, take the city tour bus 10/20 visit vocanol Cuexomate and museum Amparo 10/21 visit museo de la no intervencion fuete de Loreto and Angelópolis mall Thanks for the disorderly private bus system, I did have a casual schedule in the city. There is almost no numbers and no route maps of the buses, only couples of locations on the windshield where the bus bounds for. I had to connect the locations and to draw a route map in my head to see if my destination was around the route in only few second of the bus coming near. It was nearly impossible to me. So I used the “successive approximation” to take the bus to my destination. That is, took a bus no matter where the bus bounded to and departed when deviating. Then walked to the main road which bounded to my location. Then taking another bus…. It was wasting time and it took me almost an hour for the 8 km travel from museo de la no intervencion fuete de Loreto to Angelópolis mall with three different routes of buses. But I didn't have other visible option. To take the taxi was too expensive and to ride bicycle there was definitely not a good idea because it is usually difficult to find a safe place for my bicycle when I left for looking around. Built on 1531, Puebla was a rest stop for Spaniards traveling from Veracruz port to Mexico city, and became an important mining town in colonial era. In 5 May,1862 during the second French invasion, French troops was defeated at the first time in the 7-year-long war. Fort Loreto was a major fortress and refurbished to museum of no intervention now. Mexican troops, which was led by Ignacio Zaragoza, and pit the few against many, won an inspiring victory. Until now, Puebla and surrounded area still celebrate the date, cinco de Mayo in Spanish, and named the street as it. Puebla was also where the revolution of 1910 ignited. Having an UNESCO historic centre, Puebla is fourth largest city in Mexico and one of the richest area. Tourists can find several buildings built in colonial times with English interpretation board, and also the extreme disparity between the poor and the rich. There are two food court in the modern shopping mall of Angelópolis, one of them is gathered several fancy restaurants, packed with people in weekend of my visiting the mall. On the other hand, people tried everything to make money on street, to wash the windshield, to play tricks or music when the vehicles stop for the red light for example. Or sell snacks on the bus. But sadly, one of the the major reason the amount of money the “street performer” can earn is how much money the audience has. After all, people can hardly understand the actual strength of the performer in a short time. But the fancy restaurant and the modern shopping mall usually forbids the street performers to play the trick inside for many reasons. Rich people drive the private vehicle, to dine in a fancy restaurant, to shop in a modern mall. People have different living domain by different incomes and social status. In this case, could the street performers profit huge by performing the best? I doubt it. Moreover, the underprivileged people often suffered the most in nature disaster. For the reason that they can't afford a strengthened building as the living place for example. Puebla has the most accessibility for a non Spanish speaker. The famous Amparo museum and the city tour bus all have English autoguide. There's also a tourist information centre in the historic centre. Charles James Sculthorpe hall，以建築家，作家，與畫家Charles James命名 Puebla街道 Puebla街道 餐廳遇到的演奏者 購物商場Angelópolis與招牌摩天輪 教堂Catedral Basilica de Puebla 教堂Catedral Basilica de Puebla十六世紀建立時，不知何故有面牆總在隔天坍塌，傳說兩位天使特來守護，使大教堂得以順利完工 距離Puebla中心約5公里的世界最小火山Cuexcomate，有樓梯入火山口，但是僅為一個小魚池，並不特別 演講廳 Auditorio Metropolitano |
10/22 Puebla--Tecali 10/23 Tecali--Molcaxac Please read the English version in the second half of this article 從Puebla到Oaxaca，我不再選擇收費高速公路，一方面收費道路距離較長，另一方面一般道路似乎沒有狂貨卡部隊壓境，主宰的是破爛開不快的鄉村貨車。 崎嶇的山路，換來的是良好視野，眾火山環繞也是一大賣點。這篇稍微談一下墨西哥的食物，玉米餅， 這個被極度重視的食物在不同型態下有不同名稱。沒包原味的tortilla，大片捲起來包肉馬鈴薯塊的的burritos，最常見的小片只能折不能捲的taco等。配料除了肉，香菜檸檬放在一邊自己加，還有很多道地的調味料。 除了由廣泛使用的酪梨製成的淺綠色醬料(這裡的漢堡攤也常會加入酪梨)，另外綠醬和紅醬等是餐廳與小吃店的必備。這是墨西哥料理，不同於義大利麵的紅綠醬。綠醬(salsa verde)，外觀為半透明的墨綠色，口感酸辣，由洋蔥綠蕃茄等製成，其中的chile jalape?o，或簡稱jalape?o，對不嗜辣的我是惡魔，雖然醬料本身沒那麼辣，但是單吃jalape?o本身會非常可怕，有嘴唇發麻的作用，偏偏jalape?o的使用很廣，pizza，漢堡等，陰魂不散。 而紅醬(salsa rojo)，或標準的辣醬，在墨西哥當然要加入起源於此的樹椒(chile de árbol)。而樹椒具有曬乾後紅色的不褪的特性，因此也被作為裝飾品。 這些小吃攤常沒有足夠的桌椅，站著吃，囫圇吞棗的往嘴裏塞，可以看出為何墨西哥為全世界工作時間的國家之一。 因為這些玉米餅的食用往往搭配香氣四溢的肉類與調味料，諸如蒼蠅等小動物往往陪伴用餐者，作為小吃攤的招財神。這個開放式的用餐環境加上重肉的副作用會不會吃出亂子，至少當地人應該沒這個疑慮。而不論酪梨醬，還是紅綠醬，都有類似的味覺刺激，辣。吃玉米餅加辣醬，吃薯片加辣醬，吃水果也加辣醬，天啊。 From Puebla to Oaxaca, I cycle on the freeway instead of toll road which has numerous disturbing sharp wires on the shoulder. Also, the freeway is shorter and it seems that the freeway is not dominated by trucks but tattered and slow-moving pick-ups. Rugged terrain gives me a wonderful view of hills and volcanoes surrounded. In this article, I will briefly introduce the staple food, the corns Mexican doesn't only eat the corn itself, but also make it into different dishes as we know. The larger pieces burritos wrapped up with meat and potato chops, the small folded pieces tacos with meat and salsa(sauce) inside, and the plain tortilla. Other than the meat, there's always parsley and lemon on the side, and several authentic sauces. There are 3 common self-made sauce in the restaurant or the food stand. The light green sauce, which is made of guacamole. Salsa verde, dark green and translucent in appearance, is made of onion, green tomatoes, and chile jalape?o(or jalape?o). Jalape?o is widely used(pizzas, hamburger, etc.) but too spicy for me, although salsa verde itself isn't so spicy. And it makes my lips go to sleep. The chilly sauce, salsa rojo, or red sauce, is featured in the main foodstuff of tree chiles(chile de árbol), which is originated in Mexico and is used as decorations because it doesn't fade when dry. The food stand often doesn't have enough seats for diners, so people simply stand eating and finish the food in a very short time. It could be regarded as an evidence that Mexicans are one of the group having longest working hours in the world. The corn dishes usually go with fragrant meat and seasoning. The aroma in the air isn't only attractive to people, but small animals and flies. It seems that locals don't have any problem for the dining atmosphere. And chilly sauce and seasoning is everywhere, on the tacos, in the entres, etc, sometimes an issue to me, a non spicy fan. former convention of Tepali，建於1540年，Tepali，意思是石頭屋的所在地，也是歷史悠久的小鎮 jalapeño Tecali的小吃攤，玉米餅製作大軍 Tecali的小吃攤 Tecali鎮，與Citlaltepetl火山 標準的菜肴(餐廳吃的肉較多)，綠色醬料為酪梨醬，與紅(辣)醬，和玉米餅tortilla 路景，與 Popocatepetl火山與位於北側的Iztaccihuatl休火山 |
| 10/23 Tepexi--Acatlan Please read the English version in the second half of this article. 我覺得墨西哥人有享樂的基因或生活習慣，因此食宿費用在競爭下對旅客與中產階級以上並不貴(別忘記墨西哥的高貧富差距)，尤其住的方面。我現在傾向住在充滿活力的城鎮中心，而非在野外露營離群索居。旅館大概都能找到一晚15美金左右(大床房)，或是約20美金的雙床房，下篇詳談。城鎮中心有警察駐守，目前還沒遭遇到緊張時分。城鎮中心也很容易找到便宜路邊攤，個人偏愛有音樂演奏的平價餐廳(非震耳欲聾的)。對我來說，旅遊應該要有享受生活的成分，何況享受生活是在台灣的學校或職場的天方夜譚甚至禁忌。 對我而言，單車旅行最大的優勢是完全掌握時間與行程，但是因為行程的高度不確定性，加上隨心所欲的嚮往，我基本上不預定任何住宿設施，包含旅館或warmshower或couchsurfing 等互助網站。 騎車還是有凌虐的部分，但是在台灣讀了近20年書，看到若非在學前期網路還不發達，否則我身邊早就出了好幾個『貨車司機』，我想騎單車不是特別難事。在今天，因為『比一般公路短約20公里的誘惑』，我又選了鄉間小路，而我發現除了問路，看天和比天不可靠的手機的辨路方法。 公路三寶的大寶，私人廂型公車，這裡發揮神奇的作用。這不是攔車問路，因為大寶看到他載不了的自行車是不會停車的，可是在鄉間小路頻繁出現的大寶的先行牌，會透露他從哪裡來或要去哪裡的資訊，路途上的村落沒幾個，不會有『這個先行牌的地名是哪裡』的問題。 但是這條鄉間小路，最後變成土石路，看到這種路況，我還特別回去約3公里遠的村落確認，得到的訊息是：享受吧，孩子。碎骨之路上沒幾台車，讓我心裡發毛，最後從民宅之間的巷弄鑽出來，莫名其妙到了極點。 之後往Oaxaca的路程不再有鄉間小路可鑽，但是路程層巒疊嶺，加上替代收費高速公路的竣工，使得這段路車流稀疏，尤其是會噴單車輪胎血滴子的貨車。崎嶇不平的路段代表緩慢的騎車速度，這倒無妨。 It seems to me that Mexican is the one of the ethnicity who understands to enjoy life. Under highly competition, the accommodation, restaurant, and basic needs are not expensive to most tourists and at least the local middle class. I like to stay the night near the town center instead of camping in the wilderness, to enjoy the bustling city and also the live music/singing performance in the restaurant. Petros are in large existence in the centre to maintain orders, and I usually feel safe to linger around myself. Also, I can usually find a hotel for about 15 USD for a night. To enjoy the Life in important to me in a travel, which is inaccessible in my school and working life in the homeland. The most advantage of cycling travel for me is to have my own time and itinerary. I don't reserve any accommodation, hotels, warmshower, and couchsurfing for example, to have flexible schedule. And I don't want to cause anyone a disturbance because of the highly uncertainty in my itinerary. There is still hard time on the paddle. But compared to my school life, to paddle is just nothing to mention it. Today, to cut off the 20 km distance, I chose the backup road again. With numerous potholes and even dirt road in the last half of this section, I learned something to tell me the direction, other than to ask the villagers or my unreliable cellphone. The coletivo, or the private van bus, was a threat to me because of aggressive driving behavior, but the real help in the middle of nowhere. The driver didn't stop when seeing a bicycle that the coletivo can't carry, but I could know where the coletivo to go or to come from by its post on the windshield. To cycle on the dirt road with only few vehicles to pass me was not interesting, and the dirt road even ended weirdly in the alley of a community. There will be no visible backup roads in my further journey to Oaxaca, but the construction of toll road and the windy freeway(the one I will take) indicates that there is only few trucks other vehicles on the freeway. And I could enjoy the freeway less traveled by motors, in a slower pace to deal with the mountainous terrain. 橫衝直撞的公路大寶，他的先行地名牌在鄉間小路上意外成為指標。路況不佳 路景 路景 土石路面 鄉間土石路最後從民宅鑽出，無指標 |
| 10/25 Acatlan--Huajuapan 10/26 Huajuapan--Tamazulapam 10/27 Tamazulapam--Nochixtlan(Yanhuitan formation) Please read the English version in the second half of this article. 這段路崎嶇不平，每天工作就是爬上看似落差不大，但是隱含其中的起伏確讓我騎起來十分辛苦的山頭和無限個假山頭。雖然如此，卻有許多有趣的事與特殊的景觀。 首先，這段路我被攔下來寒暄兩次，當然我的語言能力會造成對方的失望。其實每當被問到為何旅行目的時，我很想開玩笑的說：墨西哥火山很多，我要找一個威力最強的摧毀我的魔戒。從景觀來說，辛苦爬上山坡，眺望山谷的村落，的確讓我有哈比人歷險的聯想，心境就更不用說了。 第一次寒暄我順便吃了一份雞腿湯配玉米餅和芒果汁，這是小吃攤唯一提供的食物。因為雞腿湯太辣，本來應該是是湯配玉米餅被我改良成果汁配玉米餅。第二次我被賞了一根香蕉。我懷疑是否外觀太寒酸，哪天路邊為數眾多的野狗不追單車輪子而刁根骨頭給我。 而這段路有特殊的地質景觀，類似美國Bryce canyon國家公園的hoodoos。10/27上半段路程如往常，是柔美的草坡與農田，越稜之後，突然出現特殊的景觀。Oaxaca有複雜的地貌，更有古老的地質景觀。Yanhuitan結構(Yanhuitan formation)約形成於5千6百萬年前，而沉積結構於古新世與始新世逐漸形成。包含頂端白黃色被當地人用於建材的鈣質結構，與下層的溝狀結構。下層紅色的溝狀結構因為雨水侵蝕形成，為惡地地形不利耕作，且容易造成山崩的災害。請參加照片英文說明。 This section is quite hilly. My duty in these days was to climb the hill with moderate altitude difference but huge total climbing because of so many up and down on the way. But the demanding section wasn't boring at all. I was stopped for chatting twice and my speaking ability always disappointing the locals who stopped me. I would like to tell them that the aiming for the travel is to find out a most powerful volcano, or mount doom, to smash the ring. I had the similar feeling as a Hobbit to see the village in the valley from the ridge so many times in my journey, and I really needed to destroy the ring. I ordered the chicken soup, the only food provided in the food stand to stop me. The tortillas should be served with the soup, which was too spicy for me so I ate tortillas with mango juice, not so bad. And I was gave a banana in my second chatting. Maybe I was stopped was due to the ragged dressing and the disturbing stray dogs might hold a bone on the teeth for me instead of chasing the bike wheels. About nature sight, Yanhuitan formation, formatted about 56 million years ago, is the main attraction on the section. The scenery was grassy hills and fields on the first half section of the journey on 10/27. But amazing Yanhuitan formation shown up beyond the pass. The formation, similar to Bryce canyon in United states, was formed by difference erosion. Please find more information in the description photo. Yanhuitan結構(Yanhuitan formation) Yanhuitan結構(Yanhuitan formation) Yanhuitan結構(Yanhuitan formation)解說 Yanhuitan結構(Yanhuitan formation)與村落 Yanhuitan結構(Yanhuitan formation)與下方道路 Yanhuitan結構(Yanhuitan formation)約形成於5千6百萬年前，包含頂端白黃色被當地人用於建材的鈣質結構，與下層的溝狀結構。下層紅色的溝狀結構因為雨水侵蝕形成，為惡地地形不利耕作，且容易造成山崩的災害 攔我下來聊天的路邊攤 路景，與標示在路上的里程碑 路景 路景 |
| Please read the English version in the second half of this article. 10/27 搭公車到Monte Albán遺址與逛博物館，晚上市中心有會海豚音的女歌手免費演唱 10/29 參加Santour的附近景點一日遊 10/30 到市場找『防潑水，口袋有拉鍊的薄外套』 從台灣帶來的薄外套，受到荊棘樹的偷襲而身受重傷，當然我在必要時還是會把它穿上，所謂的必要時是之後在台灣國際壞朋友的路上若有安全顧慮，穿得破破爛爛也許可以讓壞東西看到我轉身落荒而逃，因為怕我搶他。我找薄外套有一段時間，但是總是找不到想要的樣式。市場賣的，多是棉製品，口袋也沒有拉鍊。最後在今天找到一件來源可疑的外套，它上面的『來頭』應該可以保證它的品質。我很懷疑小販賣這件外套的毛利率是否是100%。 10/29的行程包含一個考古地點，兩個自然景觀，與兩個當地文化。簡述如下： Teotitlán del Valle：以手工織品聞名的村落。特色在於使用當地天然染料。如照片中盛產與中美洲的nopal仙人掌肥厚葉片上的白色斑點，為寄生害蟲胭脂蟲，其抵抗外敵分泌的胭脂紅酸(carminic acid)是天然紅色染料，該染料遇酸顏色變淡，遇鹼則變深。這個技術早在阿茲提客與馬雅時期被廣泛使用。 El árbol del Tule：品種為Montezuma cypress(墨西哥落羽杉)的兩千年以上神木，高度約42公尺，直徑約14公尺。被列為世界遺產。 Hierve de agua：自然湧泉。最大的特色是兩個位於懸崖旁邊的人工泳池，與碳酸鈣侵蝕與沉積形成的階梯狀與狀似瀑布的景觀。 Monte Albán與Mitla遺址：Zapotec文明遺址，前者為政治中心，後者為宗教中心。在Zapotec語言裡Mitla為Lyobaa，意思為安息之地。被當時居民認為是生死間的橋樑。約西元前900年開始有人定居，在西元750年至西班牙統治達到高峰。Mitla共有四個祭壇，其中三個於殖民時期被摧毀，目的為消滅當地信仰增加統治力，而祭壇的石塊被用於周邊教堂的地基。Mitla最特別也是墨西哥考古遺址僅有的是它的镶嵌細工。 10/28 visited Monte Albán archeological site and cultural museum. There was a free singing concert in the city centre at night 10/29 took the Santour tour of Mitla and nearby sights 10/30 looked for a new jacket which is water repellent and has zippered pockets The light jacket I brought from homeland was slashed by the thong three s and I tried to find a new one for a while. But the jacket sold in market is usually cotton-made and has zipper-less pockets, which is neither water repellent nor safe for the object in the pocket. I finally found one today with funny background and I wondered if the jacket is free of cost to the vendor. Whatever, it looks like durable by its impressive background. And I can still put on the old tattered jacket if any security concerns on the future journey, to make the bandit run away because of fearing to be robbed by me! The tour on 10/29 included two local cultural experience, one archeological sites, and two natural sights. Briefly described as the next. Teotitlán del Valle: A small village famous for its handmade textile. Villagers use natural material to dye. For example, the white spots on the nopal cactus, which is well distributed in central America, are the scale insects, pest to cactus. But they secret carminic acid to defend themselves, which is a good resources of red dye. The red color of carminic acid is deepened in alkaline solution and lighted in acid. The nature dye was used since in era of Aztec and Maya. El árbol del Tule： A giant Montezuma cypress which is about 2000 years old. Its trunk has a circumference of 42.0 m and equating to a diameter of 14 m. Hierve de agua: “The water boils” is a set of natural rock formations resemble cascades of water. These formations are created by fresh water springs, whose water is oversaturated with calcium carbonate and other minerals. As the water scurries over the cliffs, the excess minerals were deposited, formed cascada or the Amphitheatre-like scenery. It contains two large artificial pools for swimming and one of the them is very near the edge of the cliff. Monte Albán and Mitla: Belongs to Zapotec culture while Monte Albán was most important political center, Mitla was the main religious center. The name of Mitla in Zapotec is Lyobaa, which means “place of rest”. What makes Mitla unique among Mesoamerican sites is the elaborate mosaic fretwork and geometric designs. Inhibition of Mitla was perhaps from as early as 900 BC. It was built as a gateway between the world of the living and the world of the dead. Three of four altar in Mitla was destroyed in colonial era to eliminate local believe, and the rocks was used to build a Catholic church on the top of nearby hill. Hierve de agua：自然湧泉。碳酸鈣侵蝕與沉積形成的階梯狀與狀似瀑布的景觀 Hierve de agua：自然湧泉。位於懸崖旁邊的人工泳池 Hierve de agua：自然湧泉。位於懸崖旁邊的人工泳池 Hierve de agua：自然湧泉。位於懸崖旁邊的人工泳池 Mitla遺址，透過圍籬小洞向園區內遊客販賣物品的小販 Mitla遺址，宗教中心 Monte Albán遺址，Zapotec文明遺址政治中心 Oaxaca市中心 從市場購得的來源未知外套 神木 El árbol del Tule 神木 El árbol del Tule旁的小販 以手工織品聞名的村落。村民示範使用當地天然染料，綠色染料遇到空氣會快速變深 以手工織品聞名的村落。特色在於使用當地天然染料。如照片中盛產與中美洲的nopal仙人掌肥厚葉片上的白色斑點，為寄生害蟲胭脂蟲，其抵抗外敵分泌的胭脂紅酸(carminic acid)是天然紅色染料 |
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