| 04/26 double G service@Alaska highway MPH 699km(位於阿拉斯加公路里程699公里)--parking lot on the roadside @highway MPH 570km 04/27 parking lot--Fort Nelson @ highway MPH 454 『你騎單車來到這裡？』 『是的。』 『那住宿免費。』 這發生在4/20的Rancheria lodge，若不是天氣，我早就在這間旅館之前的廢棄屋子過夜，而這裡一晚80加幣的價格其實非常平易近人，相較之下。這間旅館是兩個距離240公里的小鎮(Teslin/Watson lake)之間唯一複合設施(旅館，餐廳，與加油站等)。有趣的是這間旅館房門是沒有鑰匙的(旅客能由房間內上鎖)，『這裡從沒丟過東西。』 而在4/25Muncho lake風景區，也是『觀賞黑熊』的最佳去處，好心的Liard hot spring hotel老闆娘讓我在庭園露營。除了免費的晚餐，她也提供幾個罐頭供我作早餐，這些味道濃烈的罐頭當然不適合在熊的領地煮食，因此我婉拒老闆娘讓我外帶罐頭的大方贈與。從Watson lake經過著名風景區Mucho lake到下一個人口破千的城鎮Fort Nelson約530公里，詭異的補給難尋且昂貴。Liard hot spring hotel餐廳在整修，雜貨店架上的食品只有四條巧克力和幾包口香糖，我得把約55公里後的Northern rockies複合設施架上除了巧克力條之外的所有食物(六片)香蕉發糕切片掃光，一片3加幣，貴得不像話。 但是，好運限定。 公路上其實有很多露營設施，只是它們多夏季限定(5月至10月初)，因此對於旅客『我可以在這裡過夜或露營嗎』要求的反應，旅客不要有太多期待。單車旅客騎在路上，只要不擋路，豎大拇指，他們停下車又不想花錢，麻煩的開始。對我來說，要花點錢沒關係，安全為重。 像contact creek lodge主人覺得困擾半推半就還是讓露營(真的沒其他地方可去)只是小意思，4/26那天，我直接被轟了出去。 這是詭異的旅館/露營地，官網『歡迎所有旅客』寫得官冕堂皇甚至可在定房網站預定，但是才晚上7點半就掛上打烊的牌子(這裡現在9點半才日落)，我還是敲門，輕拉辦公室門。 我無法確定他們的想法，也許是拉辦公室門讓他們覺得我有入侵的舉動，但這是很可怕的事，若是他們有槍呢?我當然不會隨意私闖民宅，但這是商家。 不到半個月，我似乎得回答起初『人是最危險動物』的論調，這不是說外頭全是壞人，而是就像熊一樣，雖然多數的熊不會傷人，但還是得特別小心。那天晚上我在路邊停車場露營。之前大約有提到，日間本以稀疏的車流量到晚間更顯得零零落落，且以貨車為主，因此路邊停車場過夜的最大隱憂是野生動物而不是過路司機。當然這裡最危險的熊是日行動物，且不太會闖入充滿人類氣味的停車場。既然如此，幹麼與最危險的動物打交道，頂多偶爾花錢住旅館吃餐廳當大爺。其他的夜晚，找不到指定露營地就住停車場就好了。 旅行不該有那麼負面的想法，但這似乎是最簡單的方法。我還是會到處問問，總不可能問個資訊都會被槍指吧，但是敲門求助？除了教會與公共設施，算了吧。  |
| Please read English version in the 2nd half of the article 04/30 For Nelson@Alaska highway MP 454km(位於阿拉斯加公路里程454公里)--Prophet river@highway MP 363km 05/01 Prophet river--Sasquatch lodge @ highway MP 232 又是免費住宿！我當然不會在旅館櫃檯問：我騎單車，能否給我免費房間。我會把安全帽『戴』進去(我不穿車衣褲)，並在櫃檯視線範圍脫安全帽，賓果！這發生在5月1日的Sasquatch crossing lodge，雖然僅是共用浴廁的小房間，但是我已經十分心滿意足了。而我得到的免費晚餐是正常價位的主餐附極少見的沙拉吧與自助水果盤(這裡的蔬菜大多不是夾在漢堡裡就是丟進湯裡)，在這裡根本是帝王級的餐點，其中一位經營者似乎著迷於中華文化，在這裡工作15年，晚餐後他一邊口若懸河，夾帶各種中國方言(但似乎沒有一種流利)，一邊挖冰淇淋給我。這也許是晚餐沙拉吧的湯有勾芡的原因。 來到這裡真的算是命中註定，首先我今天騎了131公里，一般不會一天騎那麼長的距離，甚至今天在最後關頭還有1公里的9%坡和5公里的6%坡。途中當然有幾個誘人的露營選擇包含一個網站寫說全年開放的露營地。 神奇住宿點不只如此，在4月30日，一個鳥不生蛋的Prophet river，這裡有約二三十戶的原住民，一個廢棄加油站，還有一間華人開的Bed and breakfast！據女主人所述，男主人喜愛打獵，打著打著就看上這個地方，至於女主人嗎…她苦笑的說：『小孩到了上學的年紀就會回溫哥華了，這裡僱人看著吧。』住這裡不是免費，但是看在他們在鳥不生蛋的地方開b and b與她為我準備四餐的份上，價格就別計較了，也不貴。 多數的單車旅客不喜歡下榻旅館，這項相對昂貴的住宿設施，尤其在美加等先進國家，我也一樣。但是我旅行的時間正好在露營場地還沒開放的時節，否則我應該會像多數的單車旅客，一整路在露營場地過夜。另外，在偏僻的阿拉斯加公路，之前介紹過，包含住宿的複合設施往往也是珍貴的補給來源，既然必須入內採買，何妨詢問住宿價錢。事實上，相較與民宅(有未經允許進入的疑慮，而這在美加可能會導致嚴重的後果)，我在這些旅館反而感受更多人情，甚至免費住宿與餐點，或是免費升級房間，更常見的是在本來需付費的露營地免費露營附贈淋浴與wifi等設施。 詳談之前，先敘述幾個我尋找住宿地點的大原則。 1.絕對不闖入私人土地，尤其是已有禁止進入的標誌(No entry, No transpassing)，或是車道以障礙物封鎖。 2.在第一點的原則上，嘗試尋找可遮風避雨的廢棄旅館，但是我會在日落時分在舖睡墊或拉營帳，並一大早離開。 3.不考量價錢，公有私人露營場地是最好的選擇，若沒有，複合設施住宿或露營優先，之後才會考量路邊停車場。 4.絕對不進入樹林裡露營，路邊的草地也盡量避免，因為野生動物帶來的風險。 若三生有幸真旅館主人讓你免費住，也要注意幾點： 1.住宿禮節，應該不必多提了。 2.旅館早晚常是不同雇員，晚餐免費，早餐不一定。 3.我還是會想辦法花點錢，例如在雜貨店消費。 一般說來，容易得到禮遇的住宿地點位於偏僻地區(單車族真的沒其他地方去)，生意興隆(少賺我這份沒差，像前文提到的Sasquatch crossing lodge當天一般房間(非我住的宿舍型)居然客滿！ 我會在阿拉斯加公路的最後一篇貼文整理住宿資訊。 Another free room. Of course I don't say:”I am a cyclist and could I have a room free of charge? Instead, I wear my helmet inside(I don't wear bicycle costumes) and take off if in front of the counter. I was in Sasquatch crossing lodge in 1st May. I got a non self-contained private room, and a free dinner with salad bar. And it was really wonderful to have so many fresh vegetables. One of the owner seems to like China culture, he talked non stopped with several China dialects(doesn't seem fluently)，after dinner, and kept scooping ice cream in my bowl. And the dinner soup was thickened by flour chop. I came to here is really meant to be. I rode 131km on the day, a long distance I don't do in most of days. Even including 1km 9% grade and 5 km 6%grade in the final section. Of course there are several tempting campground/parking lots along the way. Other than that, I found a b and b ran by a Chinese couple in Prophet river, another desolated village, on 30th April. No more than 50 original people and abandoned gas station as the only facility. I can never expect a b and b there, and owned by a Chinese couple. I had to pay for the accommodation, but I got 4 meals , including a packed lunch and a afternoon tea snack and very warm welcome. Forget about the small fee! Most bicycle travelers prefer not to stay in the hotel, so do I. If I come here in summer, I will stick to the campsites and no more problems. But the campsite is not open, and I have to stop at the highway facility, even just for food. So why not ask for the price for accommodation? To ask doesn't mean to stay, right? In fact, I found the owner of the facility is often friendly and helpful to cyclists, more than the locals. More often to a free room is a free campsite with shower and wifi. The next principles are what I observed to choose a non designed campground: 1. Avoid private property, especially those stands a sign says “no trespassing/entry etc.” or the entry car lane is blocked. 2. I think it's OK to overnight in the abandoned lodge, just make sure it's really “abandoned” and leave there earlier. 3.Designed campsites are still my first option. And camp in the facility. 4.Never camp in the woods. And I found the facility/lodge in the middle of nowhere(cyclists have no other places to go) also has good business (it doesn't matter to give you free accommodation)is the best shot for free accommodation. But don't count on it and don't see the kindness as something granted. I think it's better to spend some money (for groceries for example) even I have a free room/meal. I will summarize the accommodation information on my last post of Alaska highway travel. |
| Please read English version in the 2nd half of the article 05/02 Sasquatch lodge@Alaska highway MP 232km(位於阿拉斯加公路里程232公里)--near Shepherds inn@highway MP 110km 05/03 near shepherds inn--Kiskatinaw provincial park@ highway MP 32 05/04 Kiskatinaw provincial park--Dawson creek(阿拉斯加公路起點，start point of Alaska highway 抱歉拖稿，手機開始有訊號但是找不到地方充電。 這段路程進入融雪期，沒融合完全的雪是灰泥，融化完全的變成一灘髒水還有一堆垃圾。最大的景觀大概是一位對向女乘客警告我前面有熊，她怕我聽不懂，還擺出熊臉熊爪。 而進入人口密集區後，路寬還是一樣窄，頂多多了蓋滿一堆小石子的路肩。也許是我盡量靠路邊騎，導致貨車司機可以盡情玩『摸乳巷』－他們很喜歡在我和對向車輛之間鑽過去，看來我之前稱讚駕駛人功德心的言論真的太早。 以下是我獲得免費住宿或有hostel的地點與重要城鎮住宿資訊里程：阿拉斯加 Tok MP(里程)1314 Stoves campground(hostel，季節限定) 加拿大 Haines junction MP1578 Wanderer’s inn(hostel) Whitehorse(白馬市) MP1426 有華人開的 bed and breakfast--midnight b and b，但價格稍貴 Morley lodge(廢棄,abandoned) MP1203 Rancheria hotel(免費住宿,free accommodation) MP1100 Nugget city(設施非城鎮，MP1004,季節限定,summer only)Watson lake區域唯一廉價住宿，若真的要住Watson lake(此鎮住宿偏貴，MP980)，最便宜的是Air force lodge,the most budget hotel in Watson lake is Airforce lodge Fireside lodge(廢棄,abandoned) MP 840 Liard river hotspring lodge MP765，極單車友善設施,cyclists friendly Fort Nelson MP454，此鎮住宿價格合理，最便宜的sunrise inn and suites單床雙人房只要65加幣，房內有簡易廚房設施 Prophet river MP363華人友善b and b Sasquatch crossing lodge MP232，極單車友善設施,cyclists friendly The snow thaw rapidly. And the roadside is dominated by trash instead of the snow. It is not scenic in the last section of the highway, the most scenic is maybe a passionate female passenger warned me a bear ahead, and she posed the bear facility and claw to help me to understand! The traffic becomes much heavier. And the truckers tend to sneeze into the tiny space of me and the vehicle on the opposite lane- I already try my best to ride on the rightmost of the road, even it's covered with bothering small rocks. It seems that I said the driver is friendly to cyclists is not the total truth. |
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